View Full Version : Kerosene To Flush Engine?
EPKixAss
April 9th, 2001, 06:11 PM
I called Checker and asked how much a good engine flush kit would be. He told me that if I drain oil and change filter, then add one quart oil and fill the rest with kerosene and run for 5-10 minutes (not revving it) and then drain it, it will do the same. Does this sound like BS or he knows nothing, or is it right?
bluehornet
April 9th, 2001, 06:14 PM
:wtf: Uh, I'd stick with engine flush out of the can, thank you.
Rick_96PGT
April 9th, 2001, 06:16 PM
Definately not BS....:grin:
I have used this trick for over 20 years...
Just do like he says...DO NOT REV THE ENGINE!
Let it idle untill it begins to warm up...
Turn the engine off, drain while still warm, add Oil run again untill its a bit warmer...Drain again,change filter and fill with the oil you want to use...
NOTE:
If you plan on using Synthetic oils do the rinse with Synthetic oils...
Nothing cleans better than kerosene in an engine....:grin:
_________________
Rick_96PGT™ #61
RSP MotorSports (http://www.rs-productions.com/RSP_Motors/)
ProbusMasterus!
RED911C4
April 9th, 2001, 06:23 PM
Is it advisable to drop the pan and clean off the pickup screen and clean the pan itself? or will the sludge be small enough particles to fit through the drainhole?
Rick_96PGT
April 9th, 2001, 06:26 PM
After the first draining, or I should say during, you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine untill it comes out clear...
Then go ahead with a normal oil/filter change....
bluehornet
April 9th, 2001, 06:45 PM
On 2001-04-10 00:26, Rick_96PGT wrote:
After the first draining, or I should say during, you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine untill it comes out clear...
Then go ahead with a normal oil/filter change....
Man Rick, I'd be giving out this advice with a disclaimer. Someone is bound to "oops" some part of the process.
Rick_96PGT
April 9th, 2001, 06:52 PM
Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for your intelligence, or lack there of....:grin:
Im not a real Mechanic....But I did stay at at a Holiday Inn once....:razz:
Ltsrunem
April 9th, 2001, 07:32 PM
How could somebody screw this up? Sounds pretty simple. I'm thinking about doing it.
So RICK this stuff will actually decarb the engine?
bluehornet
April 9th, 2001, 07:52 PM
On 2001-04-10 01:32, Ltsrunem wrote:
How could somebody screw this up? Sounds pretty simple. I'm thinking about doing it.
So RICK this stuff will actually decarb the engine?
You'd be amazed.
Not Rick, but as he's said, yes, it will de-carb the engine.
tracer bullet
April 9th, 2001, 09:07 PM
EEEK! So what coats the cylinder bores with the rings sliding up and down, etc. What's it do to rubber valve seals?
Apparently nothing? Are you sure? Really been doing it 20 years?
I know I use motor flush in a can which probably ain't any better, but... You sure about this?
Rick_96PGT
April 9th, 2001, 09:10 PM
Read the label on the can...Then read the ingredients for Kerosene...Take notes....:razz:
Rick_96PGT
April 9th, 2001, 09:13 PM
Heres a test...take some gunk from an engine...an old j-yard engine...submerse it some kerosene, wait about 20 minutes...then stir it up...watch what happens...:grin:
and this is when it isnt warm and being circulated.....
91PGT
April 9th, 2001, 09:55 PM
so can i get a step by step directions so i odn t screw this up?
step 1? drain oil and add one court of oil and fill till full???????
then run till it gets warm
then shut off and drain the oil/kerosen,
then ?
i use mobile one oil, but i dont wanna waste 20-25 bucks on oil thats going to be in my engine for 5 minute
so what do i do?
does it have to be synthetic?
since i use it?
this is a cool interesting tip
thanks rick and postee,
whmoorejr
April 9th, 2001, 10:42 PM
I'm guessing you should enjoy a smoke before you begin this operation?
IL-96
April 9th, 2001, 11:34 PM
By the way, the injector and fuel system flush liquid, also smells and looks very much like kerosine.
tracer bullet
April 10th, 2001, 05:21 PM
I always likened it to ATF. I suppose Kerosene does have a lot of lubricating properties. It'd be cheap enough to do it, drain it, and repeat.
Argh, perhaps I'll gather up the balls to do it here soon.
Rick_96PGT
April 10th, 2001, 05:38 PM
Kerosene engine flush...Step by step...
1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (starting with a NEW oil filter is recomended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents.
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. You can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out untill it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favorite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...:razz:)
12. Run engine until its at operating tempature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...
This does a great job...
The residue that comes out should be quite black and a thin liquid...Chunks or sludge should be disolved...
Note:
those who use Quaker State oil may experiance chunks and or sludge when draining the system through out the procedure...This is typical of Quaker State oils...
Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for your intelligence, or lack there of....
_________________
Rick_96PGT™ #62
RSP MotorSports (http://www.rs-productions.com/RSP_Motors/)
ProbusMasterus!
bostonmx6
April 10th, 2001, 06:03 PM
flushing engine with kerosene gives very good results. engine oil flush additives are basically kerosene too, put them in a glass bottle and compare..
however, there is one exception for the engine flush: high mileage cars. in an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. i have heard of engines with over 180000 miles that worked fine, but when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring(now really clean) contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings.
same thing happened to my dad's benz (300000 miles). it was running smooth but high emissions so i decided to decarb the engine and make an engine flush. eventually it started burning oil and smoking blue especially after decelerating with compression(oil passing into the combustion chamber as a result of worn and "clean" rings).
probe
April 10th, 2001, 07:34 PM
so, if your car has high mileage, don't flush? i have 112,000 on the odo. my hla's are ticking loudly and i want to flush the engine, but bostommx6 has me wondering now. any ideas?
Tolzer
April 10th, 2001, 07:54 PM
iF you have an engine that is really nasty you have to drop the pan for cleaning to make sure you remove all the sludge. as in the case above he might have not done this properly or had too much sludge. If you are cautous just use Mobil 1 a good filter and it will clean the engine at a slower pace. And alot safer. because you can never be sure you have cleaned it all and some dirt could clog a major port as in crank or rod bearing. And that would be bad.
91PGT
April 10th, 2001, 08:34 PM
i got 102k,
should i be worried?
ricks has the best knowledge of the pgt,
so rick,?? lol. , your the master !!!
Bobby Digital
April 11th, 2001, 01:30 AM
I got a little over 100K on mine (running quite well) and I have wanted to flush the engine for a while. I was gonna use STP and do it tommorrow but now I think I'll try this kerosene method, the consensus seems to be that this is an effective method. I'll let you other high milage guys know how it goes.
akshun172
April 11th, 2001, 03:41 AM
I flushed my engine over a month ago and for the first time since I've had it. No problems yet and I'm pushing close to 170,000 miles....
Deadwlkin
April 11th, 2001, 05:39 AM
You mean the good people that manufactor all these fine aditives that brag on how advanced and well engineered there products are have been using common Kerosiene?
hehe....kinda sucks people pay 3 bucks a quart for something that sells at any gas station for 2 bucks a gallon.. Gotta love marketing....
I think we should all sell our used motor oil back to them and call it.....ummm....
Cement dye......and brag about how it makes any cement surface look and feel like asphalt... :grin:
Rick_96PGT
April 11th, 2001, 05:56 PM
On 2001-04-11 02:34, 91PGT wrote:
i got 102k,
should i be worried?
ricks has the best knowledge of the pgt,
so rick,?? lol. , your the master !!!
Honestly...I never had an engine get worse than it was....:???:
bostonmx6
April 11th, 2001, 07:09 PM
On 2001-04-11 01:34, probe wrote:
so, if your car has high mileage, don't flush? i have 112,000 on the odo. my hla's are ticking loudly and i want to flush the engine, but bostommx6 has me wondering now. any ideas?
don't get me wrong, i definitely don't think kerosene flush is bad. i personally had very good results except one example (300k driven hard). just do it in your own risk if you have hi mileage. in most cases 170k is not considered as high mileage in KL engines anyway.
Lord Optik
April 12th, 2001, 12:55 PM
out of curiocity what would happen if you reved high?
boom boom?
Zaphod Beeblebrox
April 12th, 2001, 02:43 PM
I concur, 200,000 on a Kl engine is not "High Mileage".....I run Mobil 1 0W30 at 155,000 miles with no HLA tap or valve train noise. My girl has over 170,000 running Mobil 1 as well, with the same effects, no HLAs or valve train noise. The 2.5 engine is a very sophisticated and very well engineered engine, this aint your dad's cast iron Push rod V-8.
Bobby Digital
April 12th, 2001, 05:41 PM
Well, sorry guys, I sold out. I didn't have the balls to try the kerosene method, I used STP Engine Flush instead. Actually it was more about cost than balls. Even though the STP costs more than kerosene, the procedure for kerosene requires more oil and more filters whereas the STP only requires you to change the oil/filter once (at the end of the flush). So, the STP came out cheaper and that's why I used it instead of kerosene. Anyways, with 97,000 miles on my 94 PGT I noticed better gas milage and a smoother running engine (no noticable power increase though). I'm happy with the results from STP. You can tell it works too because the oil that comes out is really dark black and full of dissolved carbon. I ran the car for 20 min. with the STP in it because I never flushed the engine before. Next time (next year) I'll only run it for 5 min.
Rumble
April 12th, 2001, 11:52 PM
About your disclaimer, is that legally binding?? I spilled kerosene all over my hood and down my fender, do I still get a free paint job? LOL (just kidding, of course!)
I suggest taking off the pan and scraping out all the itty bitty pieces of Honda Civics, those damn things clog up the KL engines with rice!!
Julian AF Bradbury
April 13th, 2001, 12:42 PM
Re oil flush.
o In unsure, use a normal can of flush and
follow the instructions. That ensures you
have more oil lube than kerosene.
o Personally I'd not run a 50:50 oil
kerosene mix and yes ATF has been used in
the past.
Re high mileage, if the engine has been well
maintained with regular oil changes & service
then 150k miles is not old even remotely. Ask
a few oil company engineers, the Mazda KL is
able to give the Lexus I6 & V8s a good run.
The reason is because the KL (K series) was
designed for the Mazda Lexus competitors. A
few oil companies have run >300k miles. What
they don't like is neglected oil changes, but
that's always been true of Japanese engines.
FWP!
April 13th, 2001, 09:49 PM
Good lord!?!?! A 50:50 mix!?!?!? That's crazy!! I'm worried about even having an engine flush in my motor for 5 minutes knowing how much it thins out the oil. Having one quart of oil in there with 3 quarts of kerosene just seems.....nuts! My engine's got 125k on it, should i be ok? I've run engine flushes in the past, like every other change, no valve tick, no smoke, it loses oil but only from the oil pump somewhat. Hrm.....this is just mind boggling to me. That much kerosene in the oil!?!?! That one guy said it best above - what the hell is lubricating the bearings on the crankshaft? The valve train? The oil pump? OH well....what do you think about my car? Can it be done? Or should i just say screw it and build up a ZE :razz:
Rick_96PGT
April 13th, 2001, 10:50 PM
Geez...:roll:
Read....:grin:
Read the ingrediants for Kerosene...
Then read the ingrediants for any engine flush in a can....
WOW....They have very similar properties....
Unlike Gasoline, Kerosene contains oil ...That is it has Lubricating properties...Its not Water....:roll:
From an MSDS:
Ingredient: ALIPHATIC PETROLEUM SOLVENT
FWP!
April 14th, 2001, 06:42 AM
On 2001-04-14 04:50, Rick_96PGT wrote:
Geez...:roll:
Read....:grin:
Read the ingrediants for Kerosene...
Then read the ingrediants for any engine flush in a can....
WOW....They have very similar properties....
Unlike Gasoline, Kerosene contains oil ...That is it has Lubricating properties...Its not Water....:roll:
From an MSDS:
Ingredient: ALIPHATIC PETROLEUM SOLVENT
One can of an engine flush, sure, it's like a quart, but you guys are talking about 3 quarts to 1 quart of oil, that's suuuuuuuuuper thin, something I don't think I'd do....
Julian AF Bradbury
April 14th, 2001, 07:48 AM
My post has been ammended,
it should have said I'd prefer to not use a
50:50 mix. Yes I know kerosene has oil in it,
go visit the rear end of a jet engine.
However, it's an aggressive cleaner (to clean
jet engine turbines) and the tolerances in a
KL engine are very very small indeed. It is a
Lexus grade engine - Mazda's Lexus line. It
is easy to send dirt to squirters/HLAs.
So I prefer to do things progressively.
Using a Bypass Filter & Comma 5w30 Full Synth
(UK PAO/Ester oil) things are fine. Indeed I
am struggling with invisible clean oil on the
dipstick and when hot forget getting a level.
Julian AF Bradbury
April 14th, 2001, 07:54 AM
Most cans of flush are ~550ml or <1 PINT.
I'd use that ratio for a few oil changes,
progressive, then maybe an aggressive one.
However progressive seems more reasonable.
Regular oil changes over anything else, a
Trussville/Roebuck oil filter is 4.25$US.
Rick_96PGT
April 14th, 2001, 03:52 PM
I didnt mean you should do a flush at every oil change...
Maybe once a year would suffice...
DigitalGT
April 15th, 2001, 01:18 AM
For what its worth, I performed this kerosene flush today as my engine was approaching its oil change window. I must admit I couldn't be happier. I took steps a little further just to see how clean I could get the flushed mixture to come out of the pan. I actually performed the flush three times in a row running the engine for about 10-12 minutes each flush. Each time I replaced the oil filter with a cheapo one and refilled with a new quart of synthetic oil and 4 quarts of kerosene. I was delighted to see a completely clean oil/kerosene mixture come out of the pan on the third try. I refilled with 5 quarts of oil, replaced the filter, took it for a slow very low load drive, came back, drained the oil, exchanged the cheap filter for a K&N, and refilled with new oil. So I burned through 14 quarts of oil, a bunch of junk filters, and about about 4 gallons of kerosene. I noticed my engine seemed a little quieter but I couldn't place my finger on what it was that was missing from the normal underhood noises. Then it hit me. No more HLA tick. I didn't think that a flush like this would cause HLA tick to go away, but for some reason it has. I've always had a very slight one even with a warmed up engine right after an oil change. But this time. No Tick. Money and time well spent if you ask me. Plus you wouldn't believe the color of the junk flushed out the first two times. I'll definately be doing this to my '97 if it ever gets enough mileage on it to be worth it.
Duncan
April 15th, 2001, 01:24 AM
Dude if you want to flush your motor and get the mofro clean use Clorox. According to my homogilation special owners manual: "To flush motor use clorox." Not sure though, cause my manual is written in some foreign language. I got the car from some guy for 100 bucks. He sold me the car and left really fast. He says its from Germany or something.
Rick_96PGT
April 15th, 2001, 01:14 PM
:wtf:
EPKixAss
April 15th, 2001, 01:23 PM
I will be switching to Mobil 1 on my next oil change. If I do the engine flush soon, is it ok to use my oil I use now (Castrol) while doing the flush?
What is HLA? I have been told this is where my tap is coming from and I have no idea what it is.
HowLeTT
April 15th, 2001, 01:23 PM
duncan do you usually run synthetic oil? it was still that dirty even with synthetics?
EPKixAss
April 15th, 2001, 01:24 PM
tracer bullet
April 17th, 2001, 04:27 PM
HLA is hydraulic lash adjuster - it's a piece that goes between the cam lobe and the top of the valve, a rocker arm will be in there too. Ahh, heck, look it up on a "how engines work" book.
I've been using Mobil 1 for yers, and yes - it gets just as dirty as anything else. I just changed it again, about 3000 miles on it, it was flat out black.
I did the kerosene thing last night. I talked to some "car guys" here at work, they all pretty much said yeah, no problem, old trick. They thought it might even help swell up the rubber seals a little, that if I had any leaks (nope) that they might go away...
Anyhow, I got 5 bottles of $1 oil, and 5 of Mobil 1, and both a cheap and a really good filter. I also picked up a 5 gallon deal of kerosene (hmm, it was pink!).
I drained the old oil (black) and changed the filter to the cheap one. Filled up with about 2-1/2 quarts kerosene, 2-1/2 of the cheap oil. Ran it at idle about 15 minutes. Drained the oil (black again), left the filter on, and capped it back up. Refilled with about 2-1/2 quarts kerosene and 2-1/2 quarts oil again, and repeated. Drained it again, black a third time. Wow, where's it all coming from?
I would put the oil/kerosene mix in for a third time, but I was out of the cheap oil. So I drained it as long as it would go and removed the cheap filter. I poured in just a little more oil (the bottom of the bottles, plus about 1/2 quart left over from a long time ago) and let it drain right out, hoping it would take a little more residue with it.
Lastly I capped it all back up and put on the good filter. Filled it back up with Mobil 1. (I would have done another cycle, but like i said I was out of oil). Ran it around a little and parked it.
So - this morning, I start it up - I think it's (OK, I know it's) quieter than it's been in years. I've still got the friction gear tick, but everything else is gone. I think I can say that if your engine sounds fairly quiet when it's warm, but is loud cold, then this is it. Now warm or cold are exactly the same! I've done this to some extent before, with some different flush-in-a-can products, they worked but not this well.
Not sure what else to say. Once I sort of realized that this was an age old time worn trick, I got a little more confidence in it. It certainly worked for me, it's a lot quieter now. I'd hate to replace the friction gear piece, I don't know if I could even tell if it's running?
mario
April 17th, 2001, 05:07 PM
Good write up tracer, I think I need to go get some Kerosene and cheep oil now.
EPKixAss
April 17th, 2001, 05:55 PM
My dad seems to think that since my car is about 7 years old and has 87,000 miles, an engine flush will cause many leaks, such as the piston rings, gaskets, etc. How many miles are on your car and have you done many flushes before?
_________________
1994 Probe GT
Rio Red - White Racing Stripes
http://probegt.4t.com/ (http://probegt.4t.com)
Minnesota Probe Owners Club (http://mnpoc.org)
tracer bullet
April 17th, 2001, 08:46 PM
108,000 miles. Didn't appear to cause any problems, I suppose time will tell.
No offense to pops, but a lot of technology (rubber, seals, gaskets, etc.) have changed over the years... I disprove my dad once in a while too.
bluehornet
April 17th, 2001, 09:10 PM
On 2001-04-17 23:55, EPKixAss wrote:
My dad seems to think that since my car is about 7 years old and has 87,000 miles, an engine flush will cause many leaks, such as the piston rings, gaskets, etc. How many miles are on your car and have you done many flushes before?
Your Dad is probably used to older cars where this holds true. If your car has always had regular oil/filter changes it should be fine.
EPKixAss
April 17th, 2001, 09:34 PM
Ive had it for about 10,000 miles now. I assume the last person to own it did regular maintenance because there is a radiator flush valve on the coolant line going to the firewall. Maybe i'll try flushimg it this summer. I just changed the oil today and at $20 for the oil, I think i'll wait a few months. :smile:
DigitalGT
April 19th, 2001, 09:25 PM
HowLeTT Yep I've run synthetic in my '96 since the moment the odometer clicked over to 12,000 miles. I've used nothing but Castrol 5W-30 in it and yeah it was pretty dirty. It took two flushes to really clean it out. The third was probably unessecary but it too drained out a little dirty. In the winter time my GT is fairly noisy during a cold start. The HLA tick usually stopped after a minute and cacophony of the valvetrain would die down to the point where it couldn't be heard unless the hood was opened and you really leaned in to listen. 150 miles after the flush, performing a cold start is as quiet as a hot one. No valvetrain noise at all. In fact I was all smiles this morning when I stepped outside into the brisk 33° Maine spring morning and remote started my GT. Again not a whisper of tick. I can't say 100% that this flush solved my valvetrain noise but I'd really like to think it did. I know for sure the engine idles and revs a bit smoother than it did before.
Duncan
bluehornet
April 19th, 2001, 09:42 PM
On 2001-04-20 03:25, DigitalGT wrote:
HowLeTT Yep I've run synthetic in my '96 since the moment the odometer clicked over to 12,000 miles. I've used nothing but Castrol 5W-30 in it and yeah it was pretty dirty. It took two flushes to really clean it out. The third was probably unessecary but it too drained out a little dirty. In the winter time my GT is fairly noisy during a cold start. The HLA tick usually stopped after a minute and cacophony of the valvetrain would die down to the point where it couldn't be heard unless the hood was opened and you really leaned in to listen. 150 miles after the flush, performing a cold start is as quiet as a hot one. No valvetrain noise at all. In fact I was all smiles this morning when I stepped outside into the brisk 33° Maine spring morning and remote started my GT. Again not a whisper of tick. I can't say 100% that this flush solved my valvetrain noise but I'd really like to think it did. I know for sure the engine idles and revs a bit smoother than it did before.
Duncan
Castrol isn't real synthetic. It's hydrocracked (if I'm not mistaken), so they get to call it "synthetic", even though it's barely removed from regular dino squeezings. It's also high in ash.
IL-96
May 6th, 2001, 08:05 AM
I just flushed mine yesterday. Drained oil after running it for approx 3.5Kmi (all black), put a $2 filter and 1 quart $0.99 oil, topped it with kerosine, and did a circle around the neighbourhood. Then drained and repeated (with the same filter). Well it worked pretty good, my idle now is at it's lowest, and the engine is quieter than ever. The worst part was to drain HOT KEROSINE from the engine because I didn't have time to sit around and wait for it to cool down. I poured the remaining kerosine in my fuel tank :smile: The car doesn't complain.
I put semi-synthetic oil in my engine after the flush, and next time it's going to be fully synthetic.
That's all for me. P.S. 105 Kmi on a car.
EPKixAss
May 6th, 2001, 10:15 AM
On 2001-05-06 14:05, IL-96 wrote:
I just flushed mine yesterday. Drained oil after running it for approx 3.5Kmi (all black), put a $2 filter and 1 quart $0.99 oil, topped it with kerosine, and did a circle around the neighbourhood. Then drained and repeated (with the same filter). Well it worked pretty good, my idle now is at it's lowest, and the engine is quieter than ever. The worst part was to drain HOT KEROSINE from the engine because I didn't have time to sit around and wait for it to cool down. I poured the remaining kerosine in my fuel tank :smile: The car doesn't complain.
I put semi-synthetic oil in my engine after the flush, and next time it's going to be fully synthetic.
That's all for me. P.S. 105 Kmi on a car.
Dude, if you're gonna wreck your car, just give it to me.
You were not supposed to drive the car with the kerosene in it, just let it idle for 5-10 minutes (IT CAN EXPLODE!). Why would you put kerosene in the engine? It says UNLEADED, not KEROSENE. I don't know what it can do to your engine but i'm sure other people could tell you.
One last thing, you want to drain the oil when the engine is hot, otherwise all the crap has settled and isn't in the oil, its resting on the sides of the engine.
Rick_96PGT
May 6th, 2001, 10:23 AM
On 2001-05-06 14:05, IL-96 wrote:
I just flushed mine yesterday. Drained oil after running it for approx 3.5Kmi (all black), put a $2 filter and 1 quart $0.99 oil, topped it with kerosine, and did a circle around the neighbourhood. Then drained and repeated (with the same filter). Well it worked pretty good, my idle now is at it's lowest, and the engine is quieter than ever. The worst part was to drain HOT KEROSINE from the engine because I didn't have time to sit around and wait for it to cool down. I poured the remaining kerosine in my fuel tank :smile: The car doesn't complain.
I put semi-synthetic oil in my engine after the flush, and next time it's going to be fully synthetic.
That's all for me. P.S. 105 Kmi on a car.
You DO NOT drive your car or raise the idle above 1000rpms when you flush the engine with kerosene...:wtf:
This is a sure fire way to grenade the engine from lack of oil pressure....
padstack
May 7th, 2001, 02:19 PM
Where do you usually dispose of the oil when you drain it? I wouldn't think an auto parts place would take it and I don't think it's legal to dump it on the ground! I would like to know b/c I want to do this htis weekend!
94 MX6 V6
May 8th, 2001, 03:59 AM
On 2001-04-15 07:24, analprobe2k1 wrote:
Dude if you want to flush your motor and get the mofro clean use Clorox. According to my homogilation special owners manual: "To flush motor use clorox." Not sure though, cause my manual is written in some foreign language. I got the car from some guy for 100 bucks. He sold me the car and left really fast. He says its from Germany or something.
:wtf: :eek: :wtf:
94 MX6 V6
May 8th, 2001, 04:02 AM
On 2001-05-06 14:05, IL-96 wrote:
I just flushed mine yesterday. Drained oil after running it for approx 3.5Kmi (all black), put a $2 filter and 1 quart $0.99 oil, topped it with kerosine, and did a circle around the neighbourhood. Then drained and repeated (with the same filter). Well it worked pretty good, my idle now is at it's lowest, and the engine is quieter than ever. The worst part was to drain HOT KEROSINE from the engine because I didn't have time to sit around and wait for it to cool down. I poured the remaining kerosine in my fuel tank :smile: The car doesn't complain.
I put semi-synthetic oil in my engine after the flush, and next time it's going to be fully synthetic.
That's all for me. P.S. 105 Kmi on a car.
are you ok?
HowLeTT
May 8th, 2001, 04:03 AM
On 2001-05-07 20:19, padstack wrote:
Where do you usually dispose of the oil when you drain it? I wouldn't think an auto parts place would take it and I don't think it's legal to dump it on the ground! I would like to know b/c I want to do this htis weekend!
good question. check with your local township about recycling centers for hazardous materials. There are usually drop points for things like motor oil, kerosene, and even regular recylables at places that you wouldnt think would do that. A gas station near me accepted kerosene luckily. Most people probably just dump it though.. smurfholes :sad: polluting water is not cool.
IL-96
May 8th, 2001, 09:02 AM
Pep Boys will recycle your old oil if you bring it to them. I'm not sure about other stores.
RE: 94 MX6 V6
I'm perfectly fine. When I was running the car with kerosine and 1 qt of oil in it, it was perfectly fine, the oil pressure was normal, and i wasn't raising rpms higher than 3000. The only noticeable thing was my idle was so low, that the car would almost shutdown a few times. I think i got more dirt out of the engine this way. Even though, i'm not doing it again, thanks for replies.
As for the kerosine in the fuel, I don't even notice it, and neither does the car. I didn't put a lot in there either, maybe 1/2 gal.
wpendl1
May 8th, 2001, 09:30 AM
Dang! Keroseen is a sesonal thing at Home Depot, anyone have a recomendation as to were I could buy it?
HowLeTT
May 8th, 2001, 12:31 PM
yeah check around at gas stations near you, random ones will have a kerosene pump just like for the gas.
kfud
May 9th, 2001, 07:20 AM
Did the Kerosene thing yesterday (per tracer bullet's write up, thanks!). Man, just pouring the Kerosene into the engine you could see it clean things up. Value train is less noisey after a cold start, engine even revs smoother when it's cold. Friction gear noise has doubled however (which is what I excepted). Holy krap it was loud this morning. But it shut up after about 30 seconds which is less than usual. A the tapping sounds after much less and disappear completely when the engine is warm.
And wow, was the Kenosene/oil mix hot coming out of the engine! The steaming was blowig out of the drain plug.
First drain (100% - old oil): black
Second drain (50/50 - Kerosene/Oil): black
Third drain (50/50 - Kerosene/Oil): dark brown.
Good thing I didn't spend 40$ CDN on the STP flush. Kerosene probably does a better job anyway.
padstack
May 9th, 2001, 08:46 AM
IL-96:
I know of places that accept old oil, but kerosene? I just don't want to hang on to 5 gallons of old kerosene lying around.
probe
May 9th, 2001, 10:57 PM
after reading all the replies to this post, i am confused. i think. everybody is talking about black, sometimes chunky, oil draining from their cars during the flush. when i did mine, the oil came out dark (before flush), then right after the flush it came out almost the identical color of the fresh oil. i flushed the motor twice. once with pyroil motor flush and then with naptha (like i said in a different post). apart from the original draining, oil came out looking like new. i suppose i shouldn't be worried, but glad. right? any thoughts?
oh yeah, i followed the exact steps that are detailed earlier in this post.
to copy what kfud did:
1st- 100% (used oil) dark (not really black)
2nd- 75/25% (pyroil-max life)clean
3rd- 50/50% (naptha-max life)clean
_________________
[ This Message was edited by: probe on 05/9/2001 10:58pm ]
bluehornet
May 9th, 2001, 11:02 PM
On 2001-05-10 04:57, probe wrote:
after reading all the replies to this post, i am confused. i think. everybody is talking about black, sometimes chunky, oil draining from their cars during the flush. when i did mine, the oil came out dark (before flush), then right after the flush it came out almost the identical color of the fresh oil. i flushed the motor twice. once with pyroil motor flush and then with naptha (like i said in a different post). apart from the original draining, oil came out looking like new. i suppose i shouldn't be worried, but glad. right? any thoughts?
oh yeah, i followed the exact steps that are detailed earlier in this post.
Your engine is clean. Yea you!
kfud
May 10th, 2001, 07:04 AM
Just to follow up.
For the first time in over a year, I was surprised to start my engine and not hear any wierd noises at all. I could not believe it. Usually after my car would sit for a few hour, start it up and it would tick, click, clack and the noises would stick around for like 10-15 minutes. Now, nothing, not even the FGS noise! Incredible.
Rick_96PGT
June 2nd, 2001, 07:56 PM
On 2001-04-10 01:52, bluehornet wrote:
On 2001-04-10 01:32, Ltsrunem wrote:
How could somebody screw this up? Sounds pretty simple. I'm thinking about doing it.
So RICK this stuff will actually decarb the engine?
You'd be amazed.
Not Rick, but as he's said, yes, it will de-carb the engine.
This isnt a de-carb process...Its a de-sludge process...This will clean all the old/bad oil and sludge out of an engine...
wee777
June 3rd, 2001, 03:01 AM
So decarboning the engine with the spray can and hose, and this kerosene flush are two different things and serve two different purposes?
Ltsrunem
June 3rd, 2001, 03:56 AM
On 2001-06-03 09:01, wee777 wrote:
So decarboning the engine with the spray can and hose, and this kerosene flush are two different things and serve two different purposes?
I was just wondering the same thing. I guess it would be different cause oil doesn't travel through any vaccum hoses.
Rocket
June 3rd, 2001, 08:55 AM
De-carboning the "INTAKE" and desludging the engine are 2 very different things. They are both cheap and easy to do, but I found a lot better results with decarboning the Intake. That gave me some HP back. Desludging didn't give me anymore power, just a cleaner engine. Do them BOTH!
effeddex
June 3rd, 2001, 10:03 PM
i'm too chicken to do this...
WAY too chicken!!
But i gotta do something cuz my car sounds like crap cuz of the hla noise... really not evident from outside, but from inside w/ stereo off, it's like having a bad valve.
i think i'll use stp or gunk and use the mobil 1 heavy duty.
any opinions on engine restore v6??
cheers
kfud
June 6th, 2001, 08:35 AM
Just a little follow up on the kerosene flush.
2000km later my oil is still clear. Darker, but still clear enough to see through. Used to be black after like 1000km. ( :scold: bad fram filter, bad fram filter :scold: ).
Definately adding this to the spring cleaning list. :smile:
Rick_96PGT
June 6th, 2001, 05:41 PM
You did the Kerosene flush?
How does the engine sound?
HLA's a little quieter?...;)
The oil should stay semi light in color into your next oil change....:tup:
kfud
June 7th, 2001, 07:22 AM
Everything is quieter, except the friction gear noise. Its MUCH worse now. Must of cleaned all the gunk that prevented it from making more noise. :tup:
It would also seem, my VGC are leaking more now. :tdown: Aw well, that's what extended warrenties are for right?
Do VCG overlap replacing the FGS? I going to get both gaskets changed tomorrow. Maybe I could get them to change the spring at the same time.
Anyway, I'm glad I didn't waste 40$ on the STP flush.
effeddex
June 7th, 2001, 01:19 PM
STP engine flush was CAD$9.99... taht's US$0.02...
btw, where is the friction gear noise supposed to come from and what is the friction gear??
cheers!
kfud
June 7th, 2001, 02:03 PM
On 2001-06-07 19:19, effeddex wrote:
STP engine flush was CAD$9.99... taht's US$0.02...
btw, where is the friction gear noise supposed to come from and what is the friction gear??
cheers!
There's another STP flush you can buy. It 40$ CDN. smurf that $hit. :grin:
Cool! "f u k" turns into smurf, LOL! :grin:
SlammedJDM
June 7th, 2001, 02:54 PM
what about a rinse of Automatic transmission fluid?? Thats what i do sometimes. Goes in bright red, comes out jet black.
tracer bullet
June 7th, 2001, 04:19 PM
After reading all this here a few months ago, I did it. It DID get a lot of junk out of the engine, that is this stuff (run abot 25% kerosene and 75% cheap oil for 3 changes in a row, run about 10 minutes each, back to back) this stuff came out black the first time, dark the second time, and not as dark the third and final time. I refilled with Mobil 1 afterwards.
So it did apparently clean some stuff, however it did not get rid of any noises. In fact if anything, it might even be a little louder. I decided not to push it...
The next plan was to pull the valve covers off and take a look, at the same time as the friction gear washer and the phenos went in, the timing belt an water pump... Basically a big pull-it-all-apart day. I was planning to pull a couple lifters out and see if I could find out what's up with the noise, see how the cams looked, etc. Then either replace some stuff or do the flush again down the road to clean the rest.
(But my friend has it now, maybe he'll do it, I don't have to fix anything for the next 59,900 miles on mine ~ such a mixed feeling not having the PGT anymore)
Rick_96PGT
June 7th, 2001, 05:28 PM
Any mechanical device in the engine that already has some defect will not be cured by flushing the engine with any substance...
If the defect exists before it will exist after...Thats a fact you can bet money on...
What the kerosene or any other flush does is remove deposits and sludge from the internal system...That is its sole purpose...
The reason I asked about his HLA's, is mine and a few people I know who have tried this also noticed that the HLA's were quieter to no noise at all after the flush with kerosene...
I took great pride in the maintenace of my engine and vehicle...The entire time I owned my vehicle, I never had a problem...Except that damn E-ram (POS)...
Maintenance is the key to longevity in an engine...This does not stop at oil changes either...
Regular decarbing and engine flushing is a must in my book....:tup: (Usually once every 6 months, unless I was being lazy...:lol:)
effeddex
October 16th, 2001, 08:02 PM
just one note for everyone who does a flush.
MAKE SURE to change your oil and filter after about 500 miles because the dissolved crap will reclog your HLAs.
And if you feel uneasy about the 1/4 oil 3/4 karosene, do a 50:50 mixture.
Cheers!
Evil Probe
October 17th, 2001, 11:29 PM
I did this today and I'll say that when I did it the first time, it looked really black, almost like the oil that I drained out prior to the flush. The second go round, it really didn't look too bad. Just a question though. Each time after I put the mix in there, smoke was coming from the hole where you add the oil. Is this normal when doing this? The car is running fine though. I let it idle for about 10 minutes each time.
TakimanPGT
October 18th, 2001, 07:50 AM
I'm going to try this. Lets see what happens.
Hans[93GT]
October 18th, 2001, 12:48 PM
On Sunday June 3, 2001 8:03 PM, effeddex wrote:
any opinions on engine restore v6??
cheers
"Restore" is junk, snake-oil marketing.
By the way, since when does STP cost $40 Canadian? I don't understand where you guys are getting your prices. ANY bottle of engine flush, STP or otherwise, should only cost $3 to $5.
Also, no matter what you use to flush it with (STP or kerosene), you guys better change your oil a couple hundred miles afterwards, because there will be peices of sludge that won't come loose for a few more days.....and you don't want those pieces to clog the HLAs.
tracer bullet
October 18th, 2001, 03:55 PM
I've done it, and I attributed the "smoke" to evaporating kerosene. It smelled like it anyway, not like something burning, but just simply getting warm and evaporating. You'll have to check exactly what yours looks and smells like, but I wouldn't be worried about it. Make sure not to overdo the amount of kerosene though, or you could be causing some hot spots, which would be BAD for the bearings.
IsIt24
October 18th, 2001, 03:58 PM
Hans[93GT] is right, I just did the kerosene clean on monday, (did an excellent job, my oil is still clean after ~50miles), yes there was "white smoke" (the same kind I used to get when I took a propane torch to dry out kerosene heaters when I used to fix them, so tracer is right) but I just changed my valve cover gaskets (wednesday) and put pheno valve cover gaskets on, to get to the point there was a lot of "loose" gunk that just fell off under the covers, etc..
Evil Probe
October 18th, 2001, 11:00 PM
I've still got about 2.5 gallons of Kerosene left after doing the flush. I bought 5 gal. cause I didn't know how much I would need. What should I do with the rest. Start a little bonfire with it? HEHEHEHE!
Evil Probe
October 18th, 2001, 11:13 PM
I've still got about 2.5 gallons of Kerosene left after doing the flush. I bought 5 gal. cause I didn't know how much I would need. What should I do with the rest. Start a little bonfire with it? HEHEHEHE!
effeddex
October 19th, 2001, 09:29 PM
when u drain all of that oil/karosene, what do you do w/ it?? so much oil!!
TakimanPGT
October 19th, 2001, 09:37 PM
Just dispose of it in the correct way! Usually gas stations have a disposing tank or something.
Evil Probe
October 20th, 2001, 12:54 AM
On Saturday October 20, 2001 3:29 AM, effeddex wrote:
when u drain all of that oil/karosene, what do you do w/ it?? so much oil!!
Call around to some local businesses and see if they run their furnaces off of oil. I know that some around here do.
Rick_96PGT
October 20th, 2001, 01:16 PM
The white smoke is primarily evaporation. Kerosene, in extremely small amounts, can weep past compression rings on the pistons. This will not harm anything, infact it may clean carbon off the tops of the pistons and valves.
vBulletin® v3.6.12, Copyright ©2000-2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.