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  • J-Cam / ZE Intake Camshaft Install

    Installation Information Provided by Dayv

    Tools and Materials Needed

    1. Set of metric sockets and wrenches
    2. Set of SAE wrenches (make sure they go at least as large as 1")
    3. Torque wrench (accurate from 3.5 ft-lbs to around 123 ft-lbs.)
    4. Metric Allen keys (must have 6mm)
    5. Breaker bar (I used a 3' length of pipe)
    6. A jack and two jack stands
    7. RTV sealant
    8. Assembly lube
    9. White paint marker

    Procedure

    1. Remove passenger's side splash guard (10mm and 8mm bolts)

    2. Place ratchet (13/16" I believe) with breaker bar over crank pulley, positioning the breaker bar touching the ground pointing toward the front of the car. Put your keys in the ignition and quickly blip the starter to break the bolt loose. DO NOT hold the key in that position as if you were starting the car!

    3. Remove the plastic belt cover on the power steering pump. Loosen the power steering pump through bolt and adjustment bolt. Loosen the tensioner bolt until belt is loose. Remove belt. Unbolt PS line from valve cover. Unbolt PS pump and move out of the way.

    4. Put the car into 4th or 5th gear and have a friend step on the brake. Loosen the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley (10mm wrench).

    5. Pull the spark plug wires from the valve cover and set them out of the way. Remove the valve cover. There are 11 (10 mm)bolts. The loosening sequence is as follows: loosen the bolt between the #2 & 3 plug well first, then loosen the bolt directly to the left of the #1 plug well. Continue around valve cover counter clockwise.

    6. Raise vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove front passenger wheel.

    7. Loosen alternator through bolt (easier from under car - 14mm) and adjustment bolt. Loosen tension on belt as you did with the PS pump and remove belt.

    8. Remove crank pulley and bolt. Remove water pump pulley.

    9. Remove the upper timing belt cover (10 mm) and dipstick tube, then remove the lower cover.

    10. Reinstall the crank pulley bolt onto the crank and rotate to TDC. With an paint marker mark the position of the timing belt in relation to the crank and cam gears. Mark the direction of the belt with an arrow.

    NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the motor mount if you are reuseing your timing belt. However, if your timing belt has not been changed it is recommended that you change it at this time.

    11. Use an Allen key to move the left timing belt tensioner and disconnect the tensioner spring. Remove timing belt.

    Up until this point all of the necessary steps have been covered in other posts and in the 2.0L Archive as they are the same as the steps followed to change a timing belt. The next post outlines the steps required to swap in the j-spec cam. http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1700974768

    CAUTION: Take your time in these next steps. The camshaft is under a great deal of pressure and performing these next steps incorrectly could result in warpage or breakage.


    12. Loosen the cam gear bolt using a wrench on the hex portion of the cam to prevent the cam from moving, and remove cam gear. Be sure to note the position of the cam in relation to the gear.

    13. Loosen the 10 (10 mm) cam bearing cap bolts according to this pattern:

    There are 5 caps. They should be numbered 1-5 left to right. I will refer to the bolts nearest to the front of the car as "bottom" and those on the firewall side as "top."

    #5 bottom
    #5 top
    #1 bottom
    #1 top
    #4 bottom
    #4 top
    #2 top
    #2 bottom
    #3 bottom
    #3 top

    To simplify this, think of it as a spiral pattern from the outside in counter clockwise.

    IMPORTANT: Loosen these bolts only 1/4 turn at a time in the above pattern until all of the caps are loose. Make sure that the cam moves up evenly. If it does not, start over and turn camshaft so the pressure is more evenly distributed.

    14. Place caps in order in a clean spot (they should be numbered). Pull the cam straight up out of the head. Remove the oil seal from the gear side of the old cam.

    15. Use engine assembly lube on the lobes and journals of the j-spec cam and place it in position. Position the cam so the least amount of pressure is applied to it.

    16. Apply RTV sealant to the mating surface of the #1 cap. Place all of the caps back in their respective spots and start the bolts with your hand. Follow the reverse of the loosening sequence to reinstall the caps.
    Last edited by PurpleMetal1; September 25, 2007, 05:23 AM.
    1994 Ford Probe 2.0L MTX
    Kitted. Lambos. Slammed. 18s. T3/04E. LSD. MSII. Zoom-Zoom-Psst.

    1996 Mazda 626 2.0L MTX
    Lowered. 18s. P5 FSDE. MP3 PCM.


    Cardomain - Needs updating.

  • #2
    Tightening sequence:

    #3 top
    #3 bottom
    #2 bottom
    #2 top
    #4 top
    #4 bottom
    #1 bottom
    #1 top
    #5 top
    #5 bottom

    Think of it as a spiral from the middle out going clockwise. Remember, only a 1/4 turn at a time.

    There is a three step torquing sequence for these bolts once the caps appear to be seated.

    Step #1: 35 in-lbs
    Step #2: 71 in-lbs
    Step #3: 100 to 126 in-lbs (remember that's only 10.5 ft-lbs. Don't over torque!)

    This insures that all of the caps are evenly and properly seated.

    17. Apply some engine oil to the cam oil seal. Tap the seal in with an oversized socket. (IIRC, 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" should work)

    18. Install the cam gear on the j-spec cam. The slot that the tab goes into (gears are universal - both can be I or E) is 90 deg. away from the "I" on the front. Torque the bolt to 36-45 ft-lbs.

    19. Installation for the rest is the reverse of removal with a few notes I have added below.

    Installation Notes

    1. Apply RTV sealant to the outside valve cover mating surface of the #1 and #6 (nearest cam gear on exhaust side) caps.

    2. Have a friend help you set the timing. Double and triple check it to make sure it is correct. Take your time!

    3. The tightening sequence for the valve cover is the reverse of the sequence listed in the first post.

    4. Various torque specs.:

    Water pump pulley: 71 to 88 in-lbs
    Crank pulley: 116 to 123 ft-lbs
    Valve cover bolts: 43 to 78 in-lbs
    1994 Ford Probe 2.0L MTX
    Kitted. Lambos. Slammed. 18s. T3/04E. LSD. MSII. Zoom-Zoom-Psst.

    1996 Mazda 626 2.0L MTX
    Lowered. 18s. P5 FSDE. MP3 PCM.


    Cardomain - Needs updating.

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