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Post swap: Reverse lights, neutral safety switch

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  • #16
    I know that the only thing I havent swapped was the harness itself. I was under the impression that this was unnecessary.
    It IS unnecessary to swap...but if u want it done the right way----the exact way it would be on a normal stock mtx probe then u would swap both of the wiring harnesses and use the mtx ecu as well- therefore everything would mate properly( clutch pedal, rev lights, and cruise control will work). the 2nd wiring harness that goes from the clutch pedals ,thru the drivers side wheel well, runs under the rad support, and goes all the way to the passengers side lights should be changed...this is a BITCH to change but will give u ur connections to make everything work. hope that helps. i dont have a dig cam....i can take a pic of the clutch assembly in my car if u want.
    Unnaturally Aspirated and Squirted Ford Probe
    Evo16g,Hybrid Custom Manifold,P&P,3angle VJ, and Milled Head, Oliver Billet rods,Wiesco 9:1 forged pistons,Apexi AVCR, 440cc injectors,Walbro 255hp,TypeRS Bov,Atx->Mtx,2.5 DP & MES Catback,RR-Sts,CM 2-R clutch, AWR Rad & Pan,Megasquirt2pcb3, maf delete/coilpack conversion

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    • #17
      Actually .. yes that would be helpful!
      I have tried at a scrap yard to atleast see the harnesses but the only 2.5 MTX I have found is so crushed from the accident that ... well most of the drivers side is missing.
      I already have (and I am using) the MTX ECU, working brake lights, etc. I'm just being anal about finishing the job properly.

      Thanks for the help.

      -Craig
      Boysenberry 96 GT
      Nissan Endlinks, Borla, 98+ TransAM tails, Eibachs & KYB's. MTX swap - Tranny number 8!, Kenwood BT838U / Infinity Kappas / 2nd Stock sub

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      • #18
        Okay, it's a little late for me to add anything to this thread but are you guys trying to tell me that the cruise control wont work without swapping the damn harness.

        I saw something about brake lights not working either, is that true? I've never heard of that before.

        This is starting to turn into more than what I planned on. Too late now, I've been less than nice while removing the ATX. The T/C nuts didn't feel like coming off the flexplate, so they have been cut off. Can't use them again...
        DE/ZE Hybrid 189 WHP 165 WTQ <--- SPUN #6
        Motor #3 184 WHP 159 WTQ pulled from junkyard... DE PISTONS/HEADS 125,000 miles
        BACK TO MOTOR #1 REBUILT, NO NUMBERS YET

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        • #19
          Wow! This is a little late, but for others...

          The cruise control worked 'right out of the box' using the ATX harness.

          THE ONLY THING THE HARNESS SEEMS TO BE REQUIRED FOR IS HOOKING UP THE CLUTCH PEDAL. (Until someone decides to work around that too!)

          Everything else can be made to work by just connecting/jumping a few wires. The only reason I am using the MTX ecu, is because I could not get rid of the CEL due to OBDII. (All trouble codes were ATX related -> no ATX in car = CEL)

          -Craig
          Boysenberry 96 GT
          Nissan Endlinks, Borla, 98+ TransAM tails, Eibachs & KYB's. MTX swap - Tranny number 8!, Kenwood BT838U / Infinity Kappas / 2nd Stock sub

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          • #20
            I had the cruise control working. I just had to hook the vacuum up to the brake pedal. One could probably do that with the clutch pedal too.

            I took my cruise out for weight reasons. PLus I did like having it on because of the chance of me hitting th clutch with the cruise engaged.
            Sandon Lettieri
            1993 Probe GT - KLZE & Stuff - 172whp / 161wtq - 146k
            2013 Focus ST - Stock & Stuff - 251whp / 290wtq - 142k

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            • #21
              In the MTX probes w/ cruise, hitting the clutch is the same as hitting the brakes. It turns off the cruise control (or at least does on my 94 GT). The only way to have it auto-rev to redline/fuel cutout is to "slip" or "pop" the car out of gear while using the cruise control, and NOT press the clutch or brake while doing so.

              Even so, the acceleration up to redline with c.control on is pretty slow. I've caught it at least twice before it got past 5k, when I was cruising at about 3.5k .

              my .02

              1977 Ford F250 4x4 - 460CID = 7.5L. Enough said?
              1999 Mazda Miata - Stock, and blue!
              2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon - The usual mods!

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              • #22
                im glad i found this thread. i cant seem to find where the rear mtx tranny sensor gets connected to.. or what its for? any help?

                good thinking with the wiring of the stuff, i'll be doing that to my friends car tomorrow.

                atx - > mtx = fairly straightforward

                the hardest part is really getting the slushbox out of there, even that isnt too bad
                Mick - 95 PGTZE Flint Mica w/Smoke Flake
                Threw a rod at 6-8psi, spiking to 9, 20Mar08
                24Mar08 - 4 days later... a proud owner of a 2005 Quicksilver GTO
                13Nov09 - Turbo ZE is alive once again.

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                • #23
                  I to ran into the problem last night with the clutch pedal wires. It wasnt untill i read this thread that i figured i could leave the wires disconnected. I do have a donar car right next to the conversion car, but i sure as hell dont feel like pulling the harness out just to have the nuetral safety switch.

                  All i need to know is that i WONT have to pull any harnesses out, that i can just swap my ECU and be done, im putting the engine and MTX in this week. Then i should be done.

                  Everything went fine, except the clutch pedal was a biotch to take out, and then put in the new car.

                  03.5 Protege 5 ZE Swap coming very very soon
                  02 MPV big dad pimp edition with baby seat mod.
                  http://images.geekazoids.net/sig_copy9.jpg

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Merlin
                    I to ran into the problem last night with the clutch pedal wires. It wasnt untill i read this thread that i figured i could leave the wires disconnected. I do have a donar car right next to the conversion car, but i sure as hell dont feel like pulling the harness out just to have the nuetral safety switch.

                    All i need to know is that i WONT have to pull any harnesses out, that i can just swap my ECU and be done, im putting the engine and MTX in this week. Then i should be done.

                    Everything went fine, except the clutch pedal was a biotch to take out, and then put in the new car.
                    you can wire the neutral safety switchto the ignition with a relay, so you dont have to change any harnesses
                    Mick - 95 PGTZE Flint Mica w/Smoke Flake
                    Threw a rod at 6-8psi, spiking to 9, 20Mar08
                    24Mar08 - 4 days later... a proud owner of a 2005 Quicksilver GTO
                    13Nov09 - Turbo ZE is alive once again.

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                    • #25
                      ok...how'd this 3 year old thread make it onto the first page without somebody posting....besides me?
                      This is very useful info though and will be very good for the people swapping. I think I'm still going to go the route of just replacing the dash harness so EVERYTHING on my car is no longer ATX so I have no problems with shit conflicting or inspections or something.
                      NoclssGT.com
                      PhotoPOC
                      DaddyPOC
                      1997 Ford Probe GT MTX, 2009 Mazda6i MTX, 2007 Jeep Commander 4x4

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                      • #26
                        It's important, it's a sticky, it won't be for long

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                        • #27
                          damn, how in the hell did I not see that it was a sticky?
                          I must of been out of it.
                          NoclssGT.com
                          PhotoPOC
                          DaddyPOC
                          1997 Ford Probe GT MTX, 2009 Mazda6i MTX, 2007 Jeep Commander 4x4

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                          • #28
                            I dunno its been a sticky topic for over 3 years now.

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                            • #29
                              i have a question...my car had the atx-mtx swap and they never changed the harness...and it ran like hell...so i swapped to the mtx harness...except for the fender one...that means i have to jump the 6-9 to start it right??? and this means i dont have to do the thing with the reverse lights right??? also... cuz i get power but when i turn the ignition switch...it the starter doesnt go..but i jumped the starter with some pliers and it goes....i think i just need to do that 6-9 jump...someone correct me if im wrong
                              Sold my turbo probe gt '93
                              Now I have an 08 350z

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                              • #30
                                1981 300d 123 Chassis

                                FOUND BROKEN WIRE IN NEUTRAL SWITCH HARNESS CLIPPED LINK TO SEE IF THAt was starting problem, yes.REPLACING MY NEUTRAL SWITCH HARNESS WIRING, BUT CAN'T GET THE THING TO START now, what is the pin config please. 5,4,3,2,1 w/5 empty what is the wiring linking?>

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