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  • Car dies while driving and restarts

    My 96 PGT 5spd with KLZE dies while driving. It's happened maybe 6-7 times in the last week. Usually it happens once a day if at all, but it occured three times today. It's been cold here in Michigan lately, but today is not any colder than the last few days, in fact one of the milder days.

    The car has been very good to me overall. I've got about 230k on it now. I replaced the DE with the ZE engine about 50k ago. It's had the infamous P1195 code ever since and that's the only code currently showing.

    I just recently had an issue with the car not starting. I replaced the spark plugs, cap and rotor and it immediately started and ran much better. That was about 1000 or so miles ago. Now, the engine dies while driving in gear. I can't say for sure, but it seems like it occurs under heavier loads. It immediately starts running again (within a second) and the problem is unlikely to reoccur for many miles and most often not again until another day.

    I installed an MSD 6A ignitiion and Blaster 3 coil before the ZE engine, so that's 50k or so miles ago.

    I'm baffled. No codes besides the P1195. The timing belt is fine and the alignment marks line up with the cam gears. I replaced the fuel pump a while ago as well. I have plenty of gas in the tank (near full). The VAF moves freely. TPS hasn't been moved since I installed the ZE. Almost everyone who seems to have this problems ends up resolving it with a new disty (infamous ignitor failiure), but I have the external MSD so I'm inclined to believe that my disty is not to blame, although I'm open to anyone's suggestions as to why it could be to blame. I'm also thinking the MSD or coil could be bad. The coil is relatively inexpensive, but the ignition module is not so cheap so that is not tops on my list for replacement if I can avoid it.

    FWIW my VRIS solenoid closest to the T body is tied open.

    Any suggestions?
    96 5 spd PGT Laser Red/Tan Leather KLZE, Hotshot Intake, Hotshot Headers, Borla, MSD 6A & Coil, Fidanza & CM Stg IIR, RR-Racing Mounts, Eibach, Tokico and a lot of miles! SOLD

    07 Volvo S60R 6MT - Electric Silver/Nordkap 300hp AWD Loaded, IPD STG 3 to come

  • #2
    My stock 96PGT does the same thing, I am thinking there is some type of electrical issue with the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). It is possible I have a light oil leak at the front seal that may be allowing debris to build up causing intermittent sensor issues.
    Some times, simply power spraying the sensor area alleviates the problem. Although the power spraying may be aiding the poor connection?

    If you listen to your engine carefully while driving you will notice how the engine dies for a few thousand milliseconds and continues running right away. It's almost unnoticeable.
    Last edited by Rick_96PGT; December 10, 2007, 04:22 PM.
    Rick_96PGT #62
    "I never apologize.
    I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am."
    - Homer J. Simpson

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Rick_96PGT
      My stock 96PGT does the same thing, I am thinking there is some type of electrical issue with the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). It is possible I have a light oil leak at the front seal that may be allowing debris to build up causing intermittent sensor issues.
      Some times, simply power spraying the sensor area alleviates the problem. Although the power spraying may be aiding the poor connection?

      If you listen to your engine carefully while driving you will notice how the engine dies for a few thousand milliseconds and continues running right away. It's almost unnoticeable.
      Thanks for the insight. I'll check into it. When my engine shuts down and I'm accelerating, it feels like if I were dumping the clutch very hard... so I consider it to be very noticeable, although I can say the first couple times it happened, I hardly noticed it.
      96 5 spd PGT Laser Red/Tan Leather KLZE, Hotshot Intake, Hotshot Headers, Borla, MSD 6A & Coil, Fidanza & CM Stg IIR, RR-Racing Mounts, Eibach, Tokico and a lot of miles! SOLD

      07 Volvo S60R 6MT - Electric Silver/Nordkap 300hp AWD Loaded, IPD STG 3 to come

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      • #4
        When mine dies while running I barely notice the dip in power and then running good again, occasionally I do notice it easily when it acts up while accelerating.
        Rick_96PGT #62
        "I never apologize.
        I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am."
        - Homer J. Simpson

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm trouble shooting a similar problem with my 2.0 right now that just popped up.

          The car has trouble starting when cold Check engine light flashes and no movement on tach) and will momentarily cut out while driving, especially when its not fully warmed up and under medium acceleration.

          When the engine cuts out, the check engine light will momentarily flash (fuel cutoff too). Other than that, the car runs just fine with no noticeable missing.

          I'm going to switch out the coil to see if that's it, because it's easy to do.

          I've read that jiggling the connector to the distributor while the car is running is a good way to determine if the module is faulty (faulty module will cut out), but jiggling mine, shows nothing.

          There's talk that it could be the alternator or a loose connector to the alternator, but most people write that problem is accompanied by a wildly fluctuating tach. I have had a weird problem for a while now where the tach reads much lower than it should at speed now and again, but is very steady, with no fluctuation.

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          • #6
            Check for a loose electrical connection at the battery and grounds. A lot of people that have relocated the battery to the trunk have this type of problem. and it is usually associated with a loose connection. Hope this helps.

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            • #7
              i just fixed that problem with my probe come to find out it was the distributer i wasent getting a spark all the time but if you have replaced that its a part called the bosh immobilizer and the only way to fix it is to have a electricion bypass it.it usually goes with distributer because it sends a sharp charge to that componant i eas lucky replaced the distributer and it worked but is actually common for the other part to go as well its located in a black box under the center council.but now that i fixed that almost 6 months later and its stalling on me again and this time it will start right back up but wont stay running ive been trough alot of the systems and im stumped?

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