Attention: Painters And Experienced Body People Needed!!!

[Unique93]

I'm doing this to my probe as we speak so i'll tell you the cheapest and easiest way to strip and prep your probe for primer. i'm only going that far on mine cus i like the grey primer look.

1) buy some 60 grit wet dry sand paper.

2) get to a place that has a garden hose and running water.

3) wash off any grease or heavy soil build up.

4) start putting some elbow grease into it. Sand that sucker down with the 60 grit while at the same time taking the garden hose and running water over the sanded areas.

this may take some time but it does work and its cheap as all get out.

if you would rather spend less time and effort on it i'd get a stripping compound and use an electric buffer to strip the clear coat and the base coat. lol my clear coat is chipping off anyways so that just means less time on it for me.

also if you have any dings or dents u wanna touch up heres a simple way to do it.

1) get bondo.
2) get plastic putty knives.
3) pull dents if needed and grind out any holes you made with an angle grinder and 45 grit sanding wheel.
4) mix bondo and hardener per bondo can instructions.
5) sand with 60 grit paper real good.
6) apply bondo in layers per instructions on can.
7) sand area with finer grit paper until smooth and even.
8) Spray it with primer

anything else after that i cant help too much with.

[TravisWilliams_GT]

I hope "60 grit" is a typo, because that is like driveway gravel glued to an index card.

Most automotive refinishes start with 320 and proceed UP in the grit range.....usually ending with a wet/sand of 400. Then after paint you can go back over it with 1500 and then buff to polish.



............60 grit?

[Unique93]

I hope "60 grit" is a typo, because that is like driveway gravel glued to an index card.

Most automotive refinishes start with 320 and proceed UP in the grit range.....usually ending with a wet/sand of 400. Then after paint you can go back over it with 1500 and then buff to polish.



............60 grit?

yes 60 grit. and no its not the abrassive. must i remind that this is to strip the pait not just scratch it. 320 is for getting it to the point of repaint. 60 is for stripping. you would work from 320 up if you wanted to do more then just the primer and base coats. i would know I have experience in autobody repair shops.

[TravisWilliams_GT]

yes 60 grit. and no its not the abrasive

that is my new motto.

[NOMADGAMER]

that is my new motto.

[natecade1]

60 grit is pretty abrasive.
For stripping paint:
tape off the car like you normally would for paint, removing all rubber trim, lights, etc. as much as you can, tape off the rest, use double or triple thickness.

and then use aircraft stripper on it.
trust me it works.
but its really messy. apply with a paint brush.

[superballs63]

yes 60 grit. and no its not the abrassive. must i remind that this is to strip the pait not just scratch it. 320 is for getting it to the point of repaint. 60 is for stripping. you would work from 320 up if you wanted to do more then just the primer and base coats. i would know I have experience in autobody repair shops.

Sure, 60 grit is not abrasive I guess 40 isn't either You strip with 80, then you can just prime over that and go about your refinishing, Its better to get to a bare metal with at least an 80 grit or a bit higher, anything more course is more likely to leave deep scratches, and unless you want your paintjob to come out like ass, you want to avoid said scratches

[TravisWilliams_GT]

Yes, and make sure you use that 60 grit on both bumpers, all the ground effects, door ding guards, door handles, and mirrors untill you get down to bare metal.




Nate is right, if you want to strip it, use aircraft stripper.

With gloves........ doubled up for the double coyote hooker effect.

[usdmrice]

hahaha wow 60 grit... Taking it down to bare metal is alot of work for no point, unless your doing a complete restore and media blasting yadda yadda. start with 220 if the paint is that bad, and only sand enough to smooth things out. Then switch to 320 as mr williams said. Get the whole car lookin good with 320 before you prime. Save yourself a headache and spend good money on good high build primer, and ask everyone you can about it and make sure it is shrink resistant. Sanding it with 60 grit like a moron means a year after you paint your car, and its all shmexy, that the paint will not look as if it was brushed on. After you prime it, let it bake in the sun for a day to let the primer settle. Then begin with 400 and a flex rubber block. Get yourself some powdered guide coat after your first 400 run, to be assured you got all the high and low spots. Do as much metal work as you can and avoid bondo until you ABSOLUTELY need it. I personally get ll metal work straightened away and usually only have to use "icing" to do the minor repair. The better you apply any lightweight filler the more hassle you save. After you have wetsanded with 400 on primer, try to always stick to wet grit there on after. If your sure your car is doen as far as body work goes, make sure the car is well sanded with 400 and get yourself some sealer, any sort you like. Spray it on generously. If the body is 100%, then move onto all jambs and edges. Use a red/brown scuffing pad until your arm is ready to fall off on every crevice of your car, because every edge is your weakest link. Dont skip out on this, because one day when your pressure washing your car, it will bite you in the ass when your paint flakes off. Only lightly apply primer to any of these ares once they are scuffed well enough. Well this is it for the paint preparation stage. Remember, the best paintjobs are all in the prep work. Dont leave a mark behind on primer saying "o the paint will cover it" because it wont.

[egman2005]

above is pretty good for most jobs.

whats the cheapest method for painting a car? Its just going to be my winter beater so it doesnt have to be perfect

[usdmrice]

Enamel based paint, single stage. Go to napa. Thats your best bet. Rattle can primer to save yourself money. I wouldnt do any more work for a winter beater. Hell my car is kitted and turbod and i run black primer; Pennsylvania roads are horrible.

[Silver Sinsei]

Just prime the spot where the chip was, after you smooth it out. Scuff the whole fender, and paint JUst where the primer is. After the primer is covered, go out around the whole are 2-4 inches and blend in the paint si its not noticable. You DON NOT have to PAINT teh whole fender. after that CLEAR the whole fender, let dry, wet sand, buff, beautiful!!

can we get more in depth on that? Im much more confused about only repainting say a dent, then repainting the whole car. My mom constantly runs into things, so her car will be perfect to practice on. I'll have her pay for everything, i get to practice, she'll get her car fixed for the cost of materials. Its a win win. Plus its a common event

[Eclipse]

my write up is still the closest to the real deal your going to get on here.... and 60 grit is the dumbest thing i have read on here in a longggg time.

[phippy]

60 is like dropping fly paper in a sand box... i would use chemical strippers before goin that stout on the abrasives...

[ELGT]

Paint Masks ;O)

I'm brand new here, hello! .... Since this thread is about painting and all. My husband's business makes paint masks with vinyl. He has those big machines that cut designs and all, so I wanted to mention if any of you wanted paint masks I'm sure he would be happy to help he's an awesome artist. Just ask, he loves his 2 probe GT's. One is a 5 speed and one is an auto. He did his own graphics on the silver one. As soon as I have more posts on here it will let me put pics and I'll show everyone. Anyway welcome me here, I'm new. :O)

Megan