Indiglo Installation

[Probe 2C]

Here's my write-up again this is the last time I'm posting this or chiming in on this... If you don't read this I won't help you.

• Remove the screws holding the knee bolster on, and pull it out set it aside (2 screws bottom, 2 clips top)
  
• with this out of the way remove the 5 screws holding the gauge shroud on (black thing, 3 up top, 2 bottom). pull shroud out and to the left disconnecting the dimmer's wire and set the shroud aside.
  
• With that out there are 4 screws holding the gauges in (each corner) remove those and begin to remove your cluster. it's hard to fit out, and half way through you have to disconnect the wiring.
  
• with the cluster out you can remove the clear plastic cover, then the black spacer.
  
• To install the gauges on the sides simply bend the new face and slide over needle. For the speedo/tach remove the black endcap on the trip set button and depress button fully. Rotate your gauges to a perpendicular position compared to the bottom of the cluster (needles parellel) then just bend and pull the gauges over the needles and trip button. I used lotsa 2 sided tape to hold them down away from needles, and checked them for free rotation before installation (holes were eventually enlarged see complaint section)
  
• once that is done modify the prong as noted in the complaint section below. Put cluster back together and wait for reinstall.
  
• Next remove your shifter knob, and then your center console.
  
• Remove the 2 screws holding the center dash panel and remove panel
  
• I used the power wire from my foglight switch to power the gauges (as directed on the directions sheet do not use the dimmer wire for power), and ran the ground back to under the cupholder area (I like solid grounds)
  
• I then taped the black box to the bottom cross member of the center stack.
  
• With that wiring done I fed the wire to gauges up through the center stack past the stereo and zip tied them inplace for a quick scs/jr bacon break.
  
• With the modified cluster in hand I proceeded to connect the 3 wires from the cluster to the closest 3 (of 4) connectors from the black box.
  
• Then I reinstalled the gauge cluster (get it in half way and then connect the wiring harness to it then the rest of the way in) Screwed it back into place...
  
• I Fished back out the dimmer wire and connected it and replaced the shroud... From there I'm pretty sure you can complete the mod.

Read on though.

When I was installing mine I tested them with the gauges out of the pod, and there was a very VERY muted... I tested again once I had it all together in the pod and I had to get my head down onto the cluster to hear them. That was on the brightest green setting... With my head in normal driving position they were inaudible... Once they were installed and running they looked sweet. There is no issue of quality here...They are good...

Some complaints...

1. The power wire for the center piece exits the pid directly where one of the clips goes (easily fixed using a small coping saw to cut opening for the wire)

2. On my set the wires to the controller (digital buttons) were upside down, so they
only lock when the color change is controlled by the dimmer, and the dimmer controlled by the color change. (easily fixed by just flipping it upside down and using electrical tape to hold it...)

3. The connectors from gauge to powerlines were expensive ones, but cheap ones that hold stronger would have been prefered by me.

4. The words on the information center lights (CEL, Airbag, Parking Brake) are kinda hard to see. Not a major problem, but hey I'm trying to rant so you guys won't have to later. I'm thinking of solving this by cutting out their little white screen that covers the lights, then ordering the speedhut carbon fiber overlay, though I'm too lazy to do it now.

All my gauges work well, and I used alot of 2 sided tape because I don't want them to shift, nor bubble out. (causing needles to hit them). The only problem here (found out after lotsa hair pulling) is that the little holes are just a little too tight, I used a small piece of sand paper rolled into a cylinder to enlarge the openings. I started with 150 grit to get the hole open (you can use larger, but it is what I had) then went to 400 grit to smooth it all out. My gauges work, and the light up extremely well.
In closing,

They look Sweet

Chris

That should be all you need to know. Email me if you need anything else.

[hawaiianPGT]

Thanks Chris,
Good writeup. It helped me on my install. I got a few comments to add.
1. On my set the upper locating pins of the center section were too close together resulting in a slight wrinkle upwards. I wrapped some sandpaper around a round toothpick and lengthed the holes evenly on both pins.
2. The gauges needles holes on my install did not need to be sanded open. There must be production variances in both the overlay and our instrument clusters. Check them to be sure. Once you put them together you do wont want to take them apart again. Also when using the double sided tape to attach the overlay, be careful not to put tape over things that need to shine through the overlay like the check engine light, turn signals, airbag light etc. It may effect the visiblity of these lights.
3. On my set the shroud did not fit over the gauge connector. This was on EVERY connector. Cut notches in the shroud to accomidate the connectors. This is not visible. Just dont cut too much. Cut, test, cut, test till it fits without bending. Dont bend this printed circut type of connection.
4. Thoughly clean the lens shroud of all dust, oil and plastic shavings. Like i said before you dont want to take this apart after you are done.(I had to do this)
5. I attached my hot lead to the bulb that lights up the ash tray. I used one of those solderless splice connectors that you squeeze with a set of pliers and has a fold over cover. Works fine looks clean.
6. Be careful when mounting the controller. On the 6 color model the controller is connected with a ribbon type(printed circut) wire. It is very thin and delicate. I did not route this under anything that can chafe the delicate wire. I routed the heavier wire under the center console. I sanded the console where this wire runs to ease chafing. To secure the ribbon wire i used 2 way tape to attach it permanantly to the side of the console. I did this to the connector that makes the connection from the heavier wire to the ribbon wire so it wouldnt move around and break the ribbon wire. Be careful when mounting the controller, the double side adhesive on the back of this is permanent. If you stick it on and try to move it...well good luck. Oh yea clean the interior parts with alcohol before sticking stuff on it. It'll hold better.
7. Use zip ties to clean up your install looks nicer than black tape and twist ties.
8. On my set the lower idiot lights seem to be pretty visible maybe inital K is using different material. What definately is NOT very visible is the high beam indicator. Cutting out the clear windows seems kinda fiddly but its up to you. IMO its too much work for little gain. Dont know what could be done for the high beam indicator.
9. I agree with you Chris, No Question About Their Quality They look awesome. And the 6 color controller is another toy to play with. IMO there is no need for one of those colored overlays(carbon fiber, aluminum etc). I think they look better without any additions.

[hawaiianPGT]

Another late note: I got static when playing AM stations on the radio. To resolve this I rerouted the power leads for both the overlay and the controller box, attached the power lead to the foglamp light wire as Chris did(with these there was no change) Finally i redid the ground wire. This solved the problem. This system must need a solid ground. I ended up using crimping a terminal and attaching it to the parking brake mounting bolt.
Now it sounds as good as it looks.

[Tical2000]

Perfect timing........Thanks!

Since I ordered my gauges and overlay Monday, I'm hoping to have them in the next week or so. Thanks again for the help. I now feel a little less worried about yanking apart that hooba-joob.