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HowLeTT's mini n2o FAQ

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  • #31
    who the hell would put nos in a slow peice off shit anyway

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    • #32
      dumbass

      If you think Probes are slow pieces of shit then maybe you should leave AND NEVER COME BACK:rolleyes: :x
      ONPOC.ca Administrator
      K-Series.ca Founder

      1993 PGTZE, forever under construction...

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      • #33
        he's kiddin, i know him, and he has seen my tailights
        1993 Ford Probe GT - KLDE + N2O
        228 whp 241 wtq - 2340 lb race weight
        ATX - 13.44@105.1 MTX - 13.35@106.1

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        • #34
          oops

          OK sorry shoulda put a smiley in there or somethin' then:grin:
          ONPOC.ca Administrator
          K-Series.ca Founder

          1993 PGTZE, forever under construction...

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          • #35
            hey the only time i seen your tail lights was when you had to do 50 at 6000 rpms of 95

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            • #36
              okay, back to the n20 talk..........i want n20, but i can't let my dad find out about it (it's actually his car), i think i'm gonna go with that really small bottle from NOS. i want to hide it in a seat or something like that. ok, my ? is, can i leave the bottle opened all the time?



              also, i only want a small, cheap, safe shot of n20 in my car, how much will it cost me?


              -jay
              -Jay
              ASE Master Certified
              ASE L1 Advanced Engine Performance Specialist
              THE RACECAR daily - '95 PGT mtx stock
              HOW TO TEST YOUR VRIS

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              • #37
                yes you can leave the bottle open all the time i wouldnt suggest it though. you might want to invest a few dollars and get a remote bottle opener.

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                • #38
                  Jay, there's a nitrous setup called a 'sneaky pete' setup.. it's made to be concealed and the bottle is very small. The problem is that it only lasts for a very short period of time, so you'll probably get it refilled quite frequently.

                  As for pricing, a decent n2o setup usually costs about $500 before you start piling on the goodies like bottle heaters and purge valves. Then there's the fuel pump and clutch to consider... try searching for more info.

                  Leaving the bottle open and pressure in the lines will eventually wear out the selenoids, because they have to hold the pressure of the nitrous inside the line all the time. You can though, I usually clear the line before I park it for the night.
                  Last edited by HowLeTT; February 8, 2002, 04:17 PM.
                  1993 Ford Probe GT - KLDE + N2O
                  228 whp 241 wtq - 2340 lb race weight
                  ATX - 13.44@105.1 MTX - 13.35@106.1

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                  • #39
                    thanx for helpin out a beginner, i'll be plannin on gettin that stuff sometime.
                    -Jay
                    ASE Master Certified
                    ASE L1 Advanced Engine Performance Specialist
                    THE RACECAR daily - '95 PGT mtx stock
                    HOW TO TEST YOUR VRIS

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by HowLeTT
                      The compressed oxygen is being sprayed in right before the throttle body through the fogger nozzle, so you have to compensate with fuel. The dry setup works by activating more vacuum to the stock fuel pressure regulator to increase the amount of fuel to the rails/injectors when the nitrous is being used. That way, the extra air is matched by the extra fuel but only when it's needed and in use. I just got completely sidetracked, hehehe. Anyway..
                      NO,

                      The dry setup works by adding more BOOST to the fuel pressure regulator to increase the amount of fuel to the rails/injectors..

                      Try this,
                      Start you car and look at your fuel pressure gauge. Then take the vacuum line off the FPR and watch the fuel pressure rise a few psi! Also at WOT, the vacuum goes to 0, thus increasing fuel pressure.

                      Boost and NOS pressure increase the fuel pressure even more by pushing against the FPR diaphram. This restricts the return line and skyrockets the fuel pressure.

                      A note on the dry system bypass T,

                      This is how the dry kit increases the fuel pressure. The bad thing about it is that it also lets more nos into the manifold through the vacuum line for the FPR. On mx3s the vacuum line for the FPR is hooked directly to the #6 cylinder I think it is the same for probes.
                      This cylinder gets a lot more n20 than the rest thus leaning it out and melting the valves and/or piston.

                      This is why many dry kits blow up the #6 cylinder.

                      The best thing to do is not use the dry system T, but if you have to hook up the FPR vacuum line to a more central port like right behind the TB. I just disconnected the PVC vacuum line and used that instead. But you can drill a new one if you don't want to do that.

                      An even better solution(if you want to keep the dry kit) is to use an FMU to increase the fuel pressure. Just hook the line that used to be for the nos T right to the FMU. This wy the only nos that goes to the motor is through the nos jet.


                      The best solution is a direct port kit. A regular wet kit combines the fuel and n2o before the TB. The wet kit can cause puddling which can lead to some nasty manifold backfires and manifold destruction(not good). The direct port sprays the n20 directly into the cylinder so no puddling can occur.(thats why they call it direct port)
                      www.thesixthspeed.com

                      Rockford Mazda club El presidente

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                      • #41
                        blah, terribly sorry for misusing 'vacuum' in place of 'boost'.. like it makes any difference whatsoever :rolleyes:
                        1993 Ford Probe GT - KLDE + N2O
                        228 whp 241 wtq - 2340 lb race weight
                        ATX - 13.44@105.1 MTX - 13.35@106.1

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Tims mx3


                          Do the smart thing, take the advice from the guy with the lower post count and faster car... He spends more time working on cars and less time talking about them.

                          This note in my sig is not ment for you. I know that boost/vacuum is easy to swicth around so no big deal. I just wanted to post so that the people who blow their motors know a possible reason why.

                          I'm adding you to my buddy list, Your info was well written.
                          www.thesixthspeed.com

                          Rockford Mazda club El presidente

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by HowLeTT
                            I usually clear the line before I park it for the night.
                            do you just close the bottle, and hit the purge switch then? is that how it's done?
                            '93 Electric Red PGT SOLD
                            Sponsored By: Dunlop Tires, Acci-Dent, Extreme Parts, Street Graphix, S3 Magazine, Great Lakes Dragaway
                            2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by probepimp

                              do you just close the bottle, and hit the purge switch then? is that how it's done?
                              Yes. You will hear it empty the line until it is silent.
                              2015 Audi Q3 - Stock |
                              2017 Audi TTS - 034, Magnaflow |

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                              • #45
                                or just loosen the line at the bottle, u can clear the line this way also but its alot more fun to purge it
                                WAGS

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