Any good links on rebuilding the KL engine

[crazyprobe]

just curious i've been stumbling across stuff here and there but im just getting more confused. looking for some good links on detailed builds for me to review and research.

i came across using milli s rods, and kl with stoker kits etc.

[KaedenKy]

I don't think you will find any specific guides.

What are you looking for?

What are your goals?

[crazyprobe]

just wanted to see what set-ups people have built in the last 10year on the KL engines

i seen people building with Millenia S rods, some people making stroker kits with honda rods and pistons, i'm just curious what set ups are considered reliable and cheaper to build.

as for my goals i'd like to to do a build that pushes i'd like to push 300-350whp with boost and maybe do a 100 shot on the side just for the added wow factor which would be once in a blue moon.

[Brizzy]

For 300 whp there is no point in building a motor. Turbo it, megasquirt , and replace transmissions as needed.

[crazyprobe]

Yeah but how reliable would a ze be boosted to 300-350whp and with an added 100 shot.

[P1P]

Yeah but how reliable would a ze be boosted to 300-350whp and with an added 100 shot.

no need for nitrous if only going 300 wheel with turbo

if you gonna use nitrous then build the motor for more power than what your goal is


also you ask how reliable well having a reliable car is all about quality parts and the mechanic who puts the parts together

[Brizzy]

I wouldn't bother with nitrous. Boost is a never ending supply of hp.

The klze should hold 300 whp fairly well with a good tune on megasquirt.

Justin made over 400 whp on his stock klze boosted.

[crazyprobe]

I don't really want to run around the streets in summer with 400plus HP ride it would be such a waste of gas. Good to know that the ZE can handle 300whp with a good tune.

[P1P]

I don't really want to run around the streets in summer with 400plus HP ride it would be such a waste of gas. Good to know that the ZE can handle 300whp with a good tune.

i would swap out the kl rods for at least millenia s rods


always build a car above what you hp goals are it will last longer

[crazyprobe]

Yeah that's the plan I wouldn't feel comfortable running on the stock rods for too long that's for sure that's why I'm curious about links to some good info.

-milli S rod set ups
- 302 rod set ups (which is the way I went the first time just forged)
- the 2.7l stroker set ups with b16 rods and B20 pistons.

I found a 2.7stoker set up for sale for $1k but like to learn more about it, also my old set up may be available I'd just love to do some research on each setup that's available

[Brizzy]

Strokers and bores are a waste of money.

[crazyprobe]

yeah see i'd love to see the info on why. i know i was talking to the machine shop last week and they just said it's alot cheaper just to get replacement parts as soon as they have to do anything it's going to cost money. so bore the block or grinding hte crank means it will make bring up the cost drastically compared to just having forged OEM parts that they just put together

[P1P]

block - DE or ZE either is fine
head - ZE
rods - millenia
pistons - wiseco
bearing - clevite
studs - arp
fuel - upgrade you fuel pump, fpr, and injectors
ems - that's your choice
oil pump - shim 3mm
turbo - t3/t4
wastegate - your choice
bov - your choice
head gasket
mechanic - someone that knows what they doing


these are some of the things you will need but it is not all

stroking the motor and nitrous is really not necessary for the type of power you want

and that 100 shot of nitrous -


P1P: What are you smiling about?

CrazyProbe: Dude, I almost had you!

P1P: You almost had me? You never had me! You never had your car! Granny shiftin', not double clutchin' like you should. You're lucky that hundred shot of NOS didnt blow the welds on the intake. Almost had me? Now me and the mad scientist (Brizzy) lol gotta rip apart the block, and replace the piston rings you fried! Ask any racer, any real racer, it don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. Winning's winning. crowd roars

[KaedenKy]

block - DE or ZE either is fine
head - ZE
rods - millenia
pistons - wiseco
bearing - clevite
studs - arp
fuel - upgrade you fuel pump, fpr, and injectors
ems - that's your choice
oil pump - shim 3mm
turbo - t3/t4
wastegate - your choice
bov - your choice
head gasket
mechanic - someone that knows what they doing


these are some of the things you will need but it is not all

stroking the motor and nitrous is really not necessary for the type of power you want

and that 100 shot of nitrous -


P1P: What are you smiling about?

CrazyProbe: Dude, I almost had you!

P1P: You almost had me? You never had me! You never had your car! Granny shiftin', not double clutchin' like you should. You're lucky that hundred shot of NOS didnt blow the welds on the intake. Almost had me? Now me and the mad scientist (Brizzy) lol gotta rip apart the block, and replace the piston rings you fried! Ask any racer, any real racer, it don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. Winning's winning. crowd roars

You wouldn't happen to know the PN for the Clevite 77 Main Bearings? I can only find the single metal part number.

[njintau_fsd]

yeah see i'd love to see the info on why. i know i was talking to the machine shop last week and they just said it's alot cheaper just to get replacement parts as soon as they have to do anything it's going to cost money. so bore the block or grinding hte crank means it will make bring up the cost drastically compared to just having forged OEM parts that they just put together

The reason bore/ stroking an engine is a waste of time or money is that 1) You now have an engine that can no longer take OEM pistons, which means if you somehow crack a piston, you have to buy the same size pistons that you had before and there's no guarantee they'll still be available. 2) its a lot of time and money to do it and (imo) unless you're looking into racing either as an enthusiast or professionally, its not worth it and 3) when you bore out the cylinders, you're also reducing the thickness of the metal in-between cylinders, which will affect their structural integrity. Combine that with more boost and nos and you increase your chances of damaging your block. I'm not saying its impossible and there is no way to safely bore/stroke the KL, just be careful and find a reputable machine shop who know what they're doing.

Yeah but how reliable would a ze be boosted to 300-350whp and with an added 100 shot.

This is when I like to rely on the PPR rule where PPR stands for Performance, Price, Reliability. The rule says that if a car's price (sticker or money spent on mods) is low and its high performance, then its not going to be reliable, if its high performance and highly reliable its not going to be cheap, if its cheap and highly reliable, its not going to be high performance.

So really, when you mod your car for more power, you are trading away a part of its reliability and the only way to have both is to spend some major $$$.