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Intercooler FYI

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  • #16
    I just thought of something for the SCe'd folks.... say we got slightly higher cooling efficiency ICs, but ones that of course experienced slightlyl more pressure drop, for us to turn up our boost wouldnt add backpressure to the exhaust because we are just flowing our exhaust as normal... while the intake charge would be a tad warmer... is it possible that without the powerloss from backpressure the turbo inflicts. that for a supercharged engine might be able to get a lil bit more cool efficient, and a bit less flow efficent, but still come out better then before??
    I am still learning intercoolers.. but it made some sense to me.

    Trevor
    Got boost?
    2003 Mazdaspeed Protege #695
    Few tweaks but effectively stock. Going over two weeks without repairs... so amazing.

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    • #17
      minor increase for time spent.

      For what its worth though, without doing calculations and killing your brain with fludded thoughts of "What Ifs". The basic facts that air/air and water/air intercoolers have typical differences, the basics in that will gain you 5 to 10 whp. A water to Air is far more efficient and cools better. But will typically run you $1200+ for a good setup. Now if you're a handyman and can make everything yourself, you're ahead. But for the majority of people in this post, they just want to know what is going to keep my engine from melting, what will allow me to up my boost a little more without melting my engine. There's tuning a car and overtuning a car. Now if you're dragging weekly and involved with the stats of a yearly point system, then you might spend those extra hours trying to squeeze out 5 more hp. But we're talking 200 to 205hp. Most people aren't going to spend the time to get 5hp here and 5 hp there and so on just to squeeze a total 20hp more. They'll instead just the boost up more and adjust to support it.
      93' Probe GT KLZE ATX... Nitrous Express Wet Kit (50 shot), Eaton M90 Supercharger, TurboXS BOV, 3" Mandrel Exhaust with Magndflow Cat and Muffler. AEM FPR, Walbro 255HP Fuel Pump, Auto-Lite Gauges, 3 Gauge Pod, Custom Nitrous switch bracket, Dynotune Dual Purge Kit, Pacesetter Headers, 64mm TB, Sensei Hood, Shogun Bumper, Shogun Side Skirts, GReddy E-Manage, Supra 440cc Injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Vortech 12:1 FMU.

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      • #18
        water/air Ic's are smaller but more complex, highly efficient at low speeds/ short run boost duration. It has lower Boost pressure loss and less compressor surge. heat transfers better between water and aluminium. Remember it is easier to heat up the water than cooling it down. it is basically 2 radiators. one front radiator and the cooler itself. now. after the water goes from the Air cooling radiator. it needs to go down to the front cooler. that can take up to 7-8 seconds depending on your reservoir. you want a big enough reservoir that the heated water don't run twice through your "cooling cooler" the front cooler. Before the water reaches your front cooler you are normally done with your "boost" therefore the front cooler mostly cools down the water bfore/after your boost. and The water cools down slower, than it warms up. this means the water would be alittle hotter each time it runs through your system til it sorta reaches it peak temp, where it kinda stays at. now this temp is warmer than it would be, if it was say your first run. thus loosing efficiancy.
        therefore it is mostly used in dragcars. bcus it is very efficient over a small amount of time.

        air/air IC's are normally bigger but simpler, more efficient over high speed, long runs, better reliability, and normally more cost effective. this one is good for street cars. its efficiancy stays at the "same rate", no matter how many times you run. theese "normally" have alittle higher boost pressure losses. (really depends on design etc etc etc.)

        find out what you use your car for, pick a type after that water/air or air/air. then look at efficiency and pressure loss through the IC. You normally want a lower than 2 psi loss at 1.5 times your engines cfm rating.
        Last edited by mmkay; April 25, 2004, 02:37 PM.

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