Things you should know before you boost
First off, anyone who is interested in supercharging his or her car needs to understand the rule of boost. Once you understand that you are half way to your goal.
Cheap + Reliable = Not Fast
Fast + Cheap = Not Reliable
Reliable + Fast = Not Cheap
Secondly you need to know that you need to be starting with a strong engine, otherwise you will not last very long. Strong doesn't necessarily mean built motor, but throwing a turbo kit boosting 12PSI on a motor with 200,000 miles on it isn't the smartest thing. Do a compression test on your motor to ensure you have good compression across all cylinders. Probably would be a good idea to decarb the motor, get out any old junk built up in your oil system as well as in your cylinders. What is nice about the FS motor is the block has oil squirters, which is something usually exclusive
to turbo/supercharged vehicles. If you do have plan on forced inducing a stock fs block with about 100,000 miles, and good compression the max boost is still only 8-10psi
Engine Management
if you plan to add Force Induction to an NA car, the right choice is to either flash the ECU for larger injectors or get engine management, otherwise your engine reliability and longevity go down severely, the simple reason is the stock ECU was never designed to handle boost. It was programmed to see 220cc injectors, even if you change the injectors to 330cc or larger to accommodate the boost, the stock ECU will still think they are 220cc. so at idle the ECU will practically drown your engine because the ECU is sending pulse widths thinking its throwing in 220cc of fuel but its really drowning it with 330cc. with an engine management unit you can custom make your own fuel map and set it up to whatever fuel injection size you need furthermore you tune your timing as well!!!
1. Engine Management Control Unit {Cost Range = $300 - $2000}
___*AEM
___* SDS
___* Haltech
___* Motec
___* Accel
___* DFI
___*MegaSquirt
MegaSquirt
Megasquirt comes in many different variants. With this system you can choose to run fuel only and let the stock ecu handle spark, or Megasquirt can handle both fuel and spark, however some versions of MS will need to be modded to handle spark. The latest version is the MegaSquirt II Version 3.57 (surface Mount), It is a DIY engine management system. You can either build one yourself from parts supplied by one of MegaSquirts many distributors. Or you can buy a pre-assembled Megasquirts from one of the Bulk Buys hosted on the probetalk fourms or you can purchase an assembled one from the company that provides parts for them. Like many other Engine management control units, there are many options and and a steep learning curve, so read and re-read before you get it installed, its not hard to damage your engine with wrong settings.More information on MegaSquirt can be found on the main MegaSquirt website: http://www.megasquirt.info/ as well as the MegaSquirt discussion forums: http://www.msefi.com/
Fuel Management Unit (FMU) (fast and cheap)
An FMU is often referred to as a boost-dependant fuel pressure regulator. The FMU is essentially a variable fuel-pressure regulator that automatically raises fuel pressure as boost rises. The FMU is downstream, after the stock regulator. As boost pressure begins to rise, the FMU starts restricting the flow of the fuel returning to the gas tank. Like a garden hose, if the flow is restricted, the pressure increases. The increased restriction results in an increase of fuel pressure in the rail and the factory fuel injectors. Higher fuel rail pressure enables the fuel injectors to deliver more fuel in the same amount of time than they do at the static stock fuel pressure. The problem is there is a limit to how much extra pressure a fuel injector can handle so your limited to the amount of boost you can do, I do not recommend this option!
SPARK & TIMING & HIGHER OCTANE
Over looked to often, now that your car is getting more air and fuel forced into the chamber you are going to run into other issues, like pressure and heat, with pressure you my not have a strong enough spark to completely burn the fuel or start missing, or you will have a hot spot and begin to hear pinging (the fuel ignited before the spark happened). You will need a stronger spark, so mod for this You may have to decrease the spark gap to ensure spark. Better/cooler spark plugs, larger diameter spark plug wires, MSD blaster coil, etc.Higher octane fuel is a must because regular fuel will ignite with boost pressure or a hot spot, Higher octane fuel will only ignite with a spark, or extreme hot spots and extreme pressure, raising the octane allows the fuel to be more resistant to igniting, furthermore to avoid pinging you should retard your timing so that the spark happens sooner, with higher octane fuel the more timing you can add.
VACUUME/CHECK VAVLES/PVC VALVE
Yet another thing overlooked, many systems rely on the vacuum that the engine creates, most if not all cars manufactured NA will be design as such, so some system that rely on vacuum should never see boost, but now you are boosting, so positive pressure is going to things that should not see positive pressures, mainly under the valve cover and the charcoal canister that is link to your fuel tank, you will need to put a check valve on the charcoal canister so it does not see boost. You will also need to get a new pvc valve the best one to get comes from a Supercharged Millenia, its a direct fit http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63580!! also you may want to consider putting clamps in “loose” places so you don’t have boost leak on your vacuum lines
First off, anyone who is interested in supercharging his or her car needs to understand the rule of boost. Once you understand that you are half way to your goal.
Cheap + Reliable = Not Fast
Fast + Cheap = Not Reliable
Reliable + Fast = Not Cheap
Secondly you need to know that you need to be starting with a strong engine, otherwise you will not last very long. Strong doesn't necessarily mean built motor, but throwing a turbo kit boosting 12PSI on a motor with 200,000 miles on it isn't the smartest thing. Do a compression test on your motor to ensure you have good compression across all cylinders. Probably would be a good idea to decarb the motor, get out any old junk built up in your oil system as well as in your cylinders. What is nice about the FS motor is the block has oil squirters, which is something usually exclusive
to turbo/supercharged vehicles. If you do have plan on forced inducing a stock fs block with about 100,000 miles, and good compression the max boost is still only 8-10psi
Engine Management
if you plan to add Force Induction to an NA car, the right choice is to either flash the ECU for larger injectors or get engine management, otherwise your engine reliability and longevity go down severely, the simple reason is the stock ECU was never designed to handle boost. It was programmed to see 220cc injectors, even if you change the injectors to 330cc or larger to accommodate the boost, the stock ECU will still think they are 220cc. so at idle the ECU will practically drown your engine because the ECU is sending pulse widths thinking its throwing in 220cc of fuel but its really drowning it with 330cc. with an engine management unit you can custom make your own fuel map and set it up to whatever fuel injection size you need furthermore you tune your timing as well!!!
1. Engine Management Control Unit {Cost Range = $300 - $2000}
___*AEM
___* SDS
___* Haltech
___* Motec
___* Accel
___* DFI
___*MegaSquirt
MegaSquirt
Megasquirt comes in many different variants. With this system you can choose to run fuel only and let the stock ecu handle spark, or Megasquirt can handle both fuel and spark, however some versions of MS will need to be modded to handle spark. The latest version is the MegaSquirt II Version 3.57 (surface Mount), It is a DIY engine management system. You can either build one yourself from parts supplied by one of MegaSquirts many distributors. Or you can buy a pre-assembled Megasquirts from one of the Bulk Buys hosted on the probetalk fourms or you can purchase an assembled one from the company that provides parts for them. Like many other Engine management control units, there are many options and and a steep learning curve, so read and re-read before you get it installed, its not hard to damage your engine with wrong settings.More information on MegaSquirt can be found on the main MegaSquirt website: http://www.megasquirt.info/ as well as the MegaSquirt discussion forums: http://www.msefi.com/
Fuel Management Unit (FMU) (fast and cheap)
An FMU is often referred to as a boost-dependant fuel pressure regulator. The FMU is essentially a variable fuel-pressure regulator that automatically raises fuel pressure as boost rises. The FMU is downstream, after the stock regulator. As boost pressure begins to rise, the FMU starts restricting the flow of the fuel returning to the gas tank. Like a garden hose, if the flow is restricted, the pressure increases. The increased restriction results in an increase of fuel pressure in the rail and the factory fuel injectors. Higher fuel rail pressure enables the fuel injectors to deliver more fuel in the same amount of time than they do at the static stock fuel pressure. The problem is there is a limit to how much extra pressure a fuel injector can handle so your limited to the amount of boost you can do, I do not recommend this option!
SPARK & TIMING & HIGHER OCTANE
Over looked to often, now that your car is getting more air and fuel forced into the chamber you are going to run into other issues, like pressure and heat, with pressure you my not have a strong enough spark to completely burn the fuel or start missing, or you will have a hot spot and begin to hear pinging (the fuel ignited before the spark happened). You will need a stronger spark, so mod for this You may have to decrease the spark gap to ensure spark. Better/cooler spark plugs, larger diameter spark plug wires, MSD blaster coil, etc.Higher octane fuel is a must because regular fuel will ignite with boost pressure or a hot spot, Higher octane fuel will only ignite with a spark, or extreme hot spots and extreme pressure, raising the octane allows the fuel to be more resistant to igniting, furthermore to avoid pinging you should retard your timing so that the spark happens sooner, with higher octane fuel the more timing you can add.
VACUUME/CHECK VAVLES/PVC VALVE
Yet another thing overlooked, many systems rely on the vacuum that the engine creates, most if not all cars manufactured NA will be design as such, so some system that rely on vacuum should never see boost, but now you are boosting, so positive pressure is going to things that should not see positive pressures, mainly under the valve cover and the charcoal canister that is link to your fuel tank, you will need to put a check valve on the charcoal canister so it does not see boost. You will also need to get a new pvc valve the best one to get comes from a Supercharged Millenia, its a direct fit http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63580!! also you may want to consider putting clamps in “loose” places so you don’t have boost leak on your vacuum lines
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