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  ProbeTalk.com Forums > Tech Section > 2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L > 2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Archive

2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Archive Quality Archived Posts and FAQs

 
 
November 18th, 2001, 05:44 PM   #1
leska
PT Regular
 
: Nov 2000
: Richfield, MN
: 46
: 681
Replaced the rear oxygen sensor and thought I'd post pictures with instructions.

DIAGNOSIS (OBD-I Vehicles 1993-1995)

The Check Engine light was coming on and after jumping the TEN & GND pins, it was reporting Code 23 & 24......

23 RHO2S inactivation error
24 RHO2S inversion error

REMOVAL

The "right" oxygen sensor is located behind the engine about 4-5" below the exhaust manifold. It's a 4 wire sensor that points towards the passenger side of the car. Access to it is partially blocked by the frame crossmember (the beam on the left with the 3 holes).It looks like this....

Rear Oxygen Sensor (26KB)

To make this job quick and easy, remove the 6 crossmember bolts and remove the crossmember. They are quite short and have a 17mm head. Once you have it removed, I suggest using a crow-foot wrench to unbolt the sensor. The 7/8" wrench fit best. All the crossmember, bolts, suggested wrench and new sensor look like this.....

Parts and Tool(35KB)

The easiest access to the oxygen sensor is right through the middle of the pipes with the angled wrench head pointing left. It's a great fit and allows about 5" to turn it or hammer on it if necessary. Looks like this......

Best Wrench Angle(22KB)

The connector has a lever on the engine harness side of the connector that you push in while pulling the connector apart.

REPLACEMENT

Make sure to apply anti-seize compound to the threads before install. Some sensors come with it pre-applied. My replacement sensor came with a tiny tube of gold compound. Looks like this....

Applying Anti-Seize (27KB)

Screw it in before plugging the connector in. It's suggested to tighten to 35 ft/lbs. The sensor has a crush washer as a seal, so make sure to tighten it good and snug.

After you plug it in, reinstall the crossmember with it's six bolts. I'd suggest using Anti-Seize on these as well for future removal. Torque these bolts to 69-90 ft/lbs.

Finished product looks like this.....

New Sensor Installed (26KB)

A few other tools I used but are not necessary are an impact wrench and 1/2" torque wrench. I wouldn't shy away from removing the crossmember if you just have hand tools though. The bolts are short and come out rather easy on my 7 year old PGT. A 1/2" breaker bar should work fine. This is what I used....

Optional Tools (30KB)

Expect the whole job to take under 30 minutes after the car is jacked up. I'd say 15 minutes with an air wrench.

There you go

NOTE: Front oxygen sensor is very similar but much easier. Just remove the plastic "s" shaped air intake behind/above the radiator to gain access to it and the connector.

Codes associated with the "Left" sensor are as follows....

15 LHO2S inactivation error
17 LHO2S inversion error

:grin:





__________________
1995 PGT F/S.... car listed in forums...
 
November 19th, 2001, 08:52 AM   #2
padstack
Donating User
 
: Apr 2001
: The Land of the Blues
: 42
: 515
I can only add that I found it easier with 2 12" extensions on the O2 sensor socket and just stick the socket and extensions through the holes in the stock rims. Just grip the sensor and turn! Worked a whole lot easier than taking the tire off or reaching down in there. (Mine had been baked on for 140K and I couldn't get enough leverage on the wrench from either the engine bay or under the car.)


BTW, this wouldn't require removing the cross-member.
__________________
Back in PGT action. Neet '94GT ATX parts? PM me!
 
November 19th, 2001, 09:14 AM   #3
Probe 2C
11 Digits of Prime
 
 
: Nov 2000
: Vandalia, OH
: 37
: 14,905
I didn't remove the cross member but went from below

Still, you have picture documentation, so you're the man
__________________
-Chris C.
Cadillac ATS 3.6L AWD
 
November 19th, 2001, 10:12 AM   #4
HowLeTT
Donating Member
 
 
: May 2000
: 16,531
it can be done without removing the crossmember, but you wont be able to turn the wrench much at all with each turn compared to taking the crossmember off. I've done it both ways, it's probably easier to take it off overall.
__________________
1993 Ford Probe GT - KLDE + N2O
228 whp 241 wtq - 2340 lb race weight
ATX - 13.44@105.1 MTX - 13.35@106.1
 
November 19th, 2001, 12:19 PM   #5
kfud
Turbo Member
 
: Aug 2000
: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
: 41
: 1,662
But if you take the right-side wheel off, isn't the O2 sensor right there? Wouldn't that be the easiest way?

I've never done it so... I don't know.

Leska is the shitz! <-- Two thumbs up.
 
December 28th, 2001, 09:41 PM   #6
yunker
PT Regular
 
: Jun 2000
: Derby, KS USA
: 557
I took the right wheel off and used an extension with an O2 sensor removal socket. It went smooth. If I don't have to crawl under that car I won't
__________________
95 PGT MX
 
December 28th, 2001, 11:04 PM   #7
Bill95PGT
Turbo Member
 
: Jul 2001
: Des Moines, IA
: 38
: 1,959
Post

Are there any reasons to purchase the more expensive Bosch 02 sensors over the sensors sold at oxygensensors.com. Also, what are the differences between the Bosch 13287, 13368, 15708 sensors. Do both sensors take the same part?
__________________
Bill's '95 PGT died 11/21/03
Don't drink and drive
 
December 29th, 2001, 05:22 AM   #8
Emilek
Member
 
: Apr 2001
: Netherlands
: 218
15708 4 wire
15709 3 wire

The above have the right connectors already attached.

Check wich sensors you need, 3 or 4 wire, front and back can differ.

Don't know if the bosch parts are better or not. On the old pt board NGK's were preferred. (i.e. lasted longer; 22028 4 wire)

Greetings,

Emile
__________________
Xedos 6 2.0 V6

 
January 16th, 2002, 12:59 PM   #9
Hans[93GT]
Five Star Member
 
 
: Mar 2000
: USA
: 15,659
Mine don't give me any codes, but they are 50,000 miles old and I'm wondering if they're having a negative affect on my fuel economy.....if one of the 2 sensors had the most affect on fuel economy, which one of them would it be? And what is the typical price of the sensors?
 
January 16th, 2002, 02:59 PM   #10
pgtfreak
Born a poor black child
 
 
: Feb 2000
: Warren, MI
: 40
: 28,708
Well, if either were bad, they would give you codes. my front O2 didn't go bad till around 75,000miles. Even though the rear wasn't bad yet, I decided to replace it anyway.

Neither will have a bigger effect on performance or fuel economy over the other.


www.buyoxygensensors.com have OE sensors for $52.99 (price went up a few bucks) shipped, and in stock.
__________________
'14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
'16 Chrysler 300S
 
January 21st, 2002, 03:06 PM   #11
drew00629
Donating Member
 
: Feb 2001
: Tripple Ripple, Michigan
: 39
: 2,450
:
Originally posted by Rats96MX6
If the O2 sensors were bad, the CEL light would come on right? Just wondering. I don't know if mine have ever been replaced, I've had the car since 76k miles and it's now at 92k.
yes
__________________
"My lugnuts require more torque then your Honda makes."
 
February 14th, 2002, 11:53 AM   #12
Eli J. Deberry
Guest
 
: n/a
How to know

:
Originally posted by Kyd Lynx
and where are these codes actully supposed to just pop up....not on the dash right?
i am assuming you guys are running some kind of diagnostics test with personal computers or going somewhere to show this.
let me know, thanks,
rami
The CEL light will come on. Usually it will come on here and there @ the begining, then as the O2 Sensor continues to fade, the light will come on more steady. Another way to tell is your fuel mileage will get much worse or better. The O2 sensor figures out the right air (o2) fuel mixture for the vehicle. My mileage got horrable and the more the light was on, the more you saw my car @ the pump.
 
February 21st, 2002, 10:29 PM   #13
scotty_d
Newbie
 
: Feb 2002
: Coquitlam, BC
: 12
I'm having my O2 sensors replaced for the first time after 100K miles but the shop has told me they're having a tough time with one of them. They say that there was a change mid-'93 & that mine (06/93) has a "hard to find" sensor. Any truth to this or is this just a story? The shop also recommends Bosch but says that only Ford has this one particular sensor I require. Any thoughts for a first time user?
 
February 23rd, 2002, 01:33 AM   #14
TakimanPGT
Donating Member
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Vikings Territory
: 11,656
The only difference i can think of is the "3-wire sensor" instead of the "4-wire". I think Bosch 15708 is the 4 wire. 15709 is the 3-wire. Look at how many wires run into your O2 sensor on the front exhaust bank.
 
February 25th, 2002, 04:35 PM   #15
NWSilverBullett
Guest
 
: Feb 2002
: Federal Way
: 2
I Need Help!!!!!!!

I have just replaced my O2 sensors but the Check Engine Light is still on. How do I reset the Check Engine Computer? I tested all of the new sensors and they are all good and my car runs great, but I can't seem to get the light off. I Need Help!!!!!
 
February 27th, 2002, 01:42 PM   #16
wpendl1
Guest
 
: Apr 2001
: SLC Utah
: 1,134
If I remember from my O2 replacement, all you have to do is take the neg wire off the battery and depress the break pedal for 15 secounds or so.
I did not need to remove my cross member, just got it from way down under.
 
March 2nd, 2002, 08:38 PM   #17
jitterz
Newbie
 
: Sep 2001
: toronto
: 8
Okay so I have a code 15 and 17 in my MX6. Where is the sensor (exactly) and how do I fix it.

 
March 3rd, 2002, 02:31 PM   #18
TakimanPGT
Donating Member
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Vikings Territory
: 11,656
Well, if you stand in front of your car facing the engine, open the hood, bend over ever so slightly and take a peek at the exhaust manifold coming out of the front cylinders right behind the radiator fans, you will see the front O2 sensor. Changing it is almost the same as the rear sensor except you dont have to jack nothing. just need the tools and the sensor.
 
March 8th, 2002, 05:55 PM   #19
MastaMX6
Member
 
: May 2001
: 173
On my car..it seems like its showing 117 code...but its most likely a 17 code? anyways, right now im having problems starting the car sometimes. I would have to give it an extra second or two before it started when i turned the key, and this one morning the car would not start at all..so then i meshed the gas a bit and it started up again...later that day, I decided to clean the throttle body and only took out the eblow of the intake to get access. well after cleaning and putting everything back together, and starting the car...it all of the sudden started to idle very high...into the 1500-1900rpm, and now this would happen every time i start the car and would never go down into the 800-900 rpm range...could this happen because of a bad oxygen sensor? Also, how many oxygen senors are there? or which one's will i need to replace? I would def. appreciate the responses.
Thanks all
__________________
1990 MX-6 GT 198.9 hp 272.7 tq @17-18 psi T-bird hybrid

05 SRT-4 - 22-23psi / 16psi @ redline
 
March 9th, 2002, 10:00 AM   #20
MastaMX6
Member
 
: May 2001
: 173
:
Originally posted by TakimanPGT
There are two O2 sensors. Front bank and Rear bank. Code 17 would be the front sensor right behind the radiator on the exhaust manifold.

For the high idle, what exactly did you do to clean it up?
I used the carb/throttle body cleaner, like gumout, but used the valvoline brand. I only took out the elbow and not disconnect everything including the throttle body. I just sprayed around the plate and some inside the throttle body and then wiped it with a towel.
__________________
1990 MX-6 GT 198.9 hp 272.7 tq @17-18 psi T-bird hybrid

05 SRT-4 - 22-23psi / 16psi @ redline
 
March 10th, 2002, 01:34 PM   #21
MastaMX6
Member
 
: May 2001
: 173
:
Originally posted by TakimanPGT
Spraying into the TB on our cars is not an accepted thing. The car just doesnt like it. Hmmmm, lets change the O2 sensor and then think of this idle. I'll try some searches for answers.
I replaced the front O2 sensor and the idle speed dropped down and is a little better now. But it is still like 200-300 rpms higher than usually sometimes, but i shouldnt worry about it too much. o2 sensor i think did the job. btw thanks man for all of the help. Also, is it a BAD thing for spraying it into the TB? even though the can instruction said so? I dont know, maybe in a couple weeks it'll be fine.

:
Spraying Carb/TB cleaner into the Carb/TB will NOT harm anything.
Its what the product is designed for. Just dont spray into the VAF
Rick_96PGT
__________________
1990 MX-6 GT 198.9 hp 272.7 tq @17-18 psi T-bird hybrid

05 SRT-4 - 22-23psi / 16psi @ redline
 
March 10th, 2002, 05:10 PM   #22
TakimanPGT
Donating Member
 
 
: Jan 2001
: Vikings Territory
: 11,656
Well, i would suggest you clear the ECU and restart the car. Let it learn for about 10 mins. then try adjusting the TPS.
 
March 11th, 2002, 11:45 AM   #23
MastaMX6
Member
 
: May 2001
: 173
It's running perfectly now I guess the ecu finally learned it itself.
__________________
1990 MX-6 GT 198.9 hp 272.7 tq @17-18 psi T-bird hybrid

05 SRT-4 - 22-23psi / 16psi @ redline
 
March 12th, 2002, 03:44 PM   #24
Nukem987
Member
 
: Jan 2002
: Utica, NY
: 38
: 167
Ford tells me I have 2 sensors...The bulk buy O2 sensor website says I have 2, a manual I have says I have 1 and a couple other people have said that the OBD-I uses one O2 sensor. I am getting the code 23 and 24 and i have a 94PGT so now i am thinking i really do have 2 after this post. Before I lift up the car....HOW MANY DO I HAVE?

:
There are two (2) sensors for OBD
Rick_96PGT
__________________
Previously owned: 96 GT, 94 GT, 89 LX
 
March 15th, 2002, 08:06 PM   #25
Rick_96PGT
Official PT DOM!
 
 
: Feb 2000
: Phoenix AZ
: 58
: 22,225
To the archive with this one too.

Again, edited for content.
__________________
Rick_96PGT #62
"I never apologize.
I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am."
- Homer J. Simpson
 
 

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