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  ProbeTalk.com Forums > General > Knowledge Base > Appearance Section

Appearance Section Talk about appearance modifications here.

 
November 18th, 2007, 09:22 PM   #26
tee-dot
Newbie
 
: Nov 2007
: Raleigh,NC
: 42
: 1
hey. i'm new to this site but i saw that you said you do alot of work with probes and I had a question you might can answer for me. have you or do you know of anyone that ordered a body kit off ebay and if so, how was your/their experience? also, do you know about what it would cost to get the parts installed on a probe? doesn't have to be an exact # jus round about. thanks in advance.
 
November 30th, 2007, 05:27 PM   #27
58Customs
Donating Member
 
 
: Dec 2005
: MA
: 43
: 58
:
I am purchasing my paint today, how much paint is required to paint a probe?
How many coats?
 
April 17th, 2008, 10:39 AM   #28
Sidakers
Guest
 
: Dec 2007
: Wichita
: 93
Ok, how is painting with a gun comparable to painting with a rattle can? I painted a bunch of my interior parts with rattle can, and did fairly well, but the coat would be too thin for being exposed to 60 mph winds. Is it really comperable, or would I have to learn a new technique?
 
April 21st, 2008, 06:09 PM   #29
mazdaspd666
Search Impaired
 
: Jan 2007
: Iowa
: 52
Rattle can paint won't atomize well and it will not be as smooth. But if you put enough work into it it can look very nice. Just make sure not to get a whole lot of dirt nibs in the paint and make sure you put a good 3 wet coats of clear on after the color and then wet sand with 1200 or 1500 to start and then bring it up to 2000 grit and then buff it. It will look great if you put enough work into it. If you have any other specific questions you can PM me. I am a auto body technician from Iowa and have a degree in collison repair. I myself am a painter. Id be glad to help with any questions you have.
__________________
93 PGT MtX Red with black insides
Coilover springs, B&M short throw, PA CAI
Strut braces F&R, Headers, Custom built 2.5'' Dual Exhaust, IAC delete, EGR delete, Black 5 stars
 
June 29th, 2008, 07:49 PM   #30
davinrobinson
Search Impaired
 
: Mar 2008
: northville newyork
: 34
: 68
i have a dvd thats like 3hrs long that go through it step by step if you want one ill mail it to you
 
September 28th, 2008, 04:00 AM   #31
Unique93
Newbie
 
: Sep 2008
: Flagstaff AZ
: 12
I'm doing this to my probe as we speak so i'll tell you the cheapest and easiest way to strip and prep your probe for primer. i'm only going that far on mine cus i like the grey primer look.

1) buy some 60 grit wet dry sand paper.

2) get to a place that has a garden hose and running water.

3) wash off any grease or heavy soil build up.

4) start putting some elbow grease into it. Sand that sucker down with the 60 grit while at the same time taking the garden hose and running water over the sanded areas.

this may take some time but it does work and its cheap as all get out.

if you would rather spend less time and effort on it i'd get a stripping compound and use an electric buffer to strip the clear coat and the base coat. lol my clear coat is chipping off anyways so that just means less time on it for me.

also if you have any dings or dents u wanna touch up heres a simple way to do it.

1) get bondo.
2) get plastic putty knives.
3) pull dents if needed and grind out any holes you made with an angle grinder and 45 grit sanding wheel.
4) mix bondo and hardener per bondo can instructions.
5) sand with 60 grit paper real good.
6) apply bondo in layers per instructions on can.
7) sand area with finer grit paper until smooth and even.
8) Spray it with primer

anything else after that i cant help too much with.
 
September 28th, 2008, 04:40 AM   #32
TravisWilliams_GT
yes.....wait, what?
 
 
: Feb 2000
: Lynchburg, VA
: 43
: 12,536
I hope "60 grit" is a typo, because that is like driveway gravel glued to an index card.

Most automotive refinishes start with 320 and proceed UP in the grit range.....usually ending with a wet/sand of 400. Then after paint you can go back over it with 1500 and then buff to polish.



............60 grit?
__________________







----- Sold within NEPO and PT




----- STUPID FAST



----- Damn I miss her.
 
September 28th, 2008, 05:26 AM   #33
Unique93
Newbie
 
: Sep 2008
: Flagstaff AZ
: 12
:
I hope "60 grit" is a typo, because that is like driveway gravel glued to an index card.

Most automotive refinishes start with 320 and proceed UP in the grit range.....usually ending with a wet/sand of 400. Then after paint you can go back over it with 1500 and then buff to polish.



............60 grit?
yes 60 grit. and no its not the abrassive. must i remind that this is to strip the pait not just scratch it. 320 is for getting it to the point of repaint. 60 is for stripping. you would work from 320 up if you wanted to do more then just the primer and base coats. i would know I have experience in autobody repair shops.
__________________


- starting to come together slowly but surely
 
September 28th, 2008, 08:13 AM   #34
TravisWilliams_GT
yes.....wait, what?
 
 
: Feb 2000
: Lynchburg, VA
: 43
: 12,536
:
yes 60 grit. and no its not the abrasive
that is my new motto.
__________________







----- Sold within NEPO and PT




----- STUPID FAST



----- Damn I miss her.
 
September 28th, 2008, 11:26 AM   #35
NOMADGAMER
PT Guru
 
: Aug 2001
: NEPO MD CHAPTER
: 6,069
:
that is my new motto.
__________________


458hp/368tq

Sorry its not a KL Series

 
September 28th, 2008, 02:38 PM   #36
natecade1
Dedicated Member
 
 
: Feb 2006
: Calabasas, CA
: 31
: 4,525
60 grit is pretty abrasive.
For stripping paint:
tape off the car like you normally would for paint, removing all rubber trim, lights, etc. as much as you can, tape off the rest, use double or triple thickness.

and then use aircraft stripper on it.
trust me it works.
but its really messy. apply with a paint brush.
__________________
2005 BMW r1200GS - fully dressed adv machine
2006 Suzuki SV650 - naked squid machine
 
September 28th, 2008, 06:54 PM   #37
superballs63
PT's Resident Asshole
 
 
: Oct 2001
: Somewhere Between NEPO and NPA!
: 37
: 6,770
:
yes 60 grit. and no its not the abrassive. must i remind that this is to strip the pait not just scratch it. 320 is for getting it to the point of repaint. 60 is for stripping. you would work from 320 up if you wanted to do more then just the primer and base coats. i would know I have experience in autobody repair shops.
Sure, 60 grit is not abrasive I guess 40 isn't either You strip with 80, then you can just prime over that and go about your refinishing, Its better to get to a bare metal with at least an 80 grit or a bit higher, anything more course is more likely to leave deep scratches, and unless you want your paintjob to come out like ass, you want to avoid said scratches
 
September 29th, 2008, 04:18 PM   #38
TravisWilliams_GT
yes.....wait, what?
 
 
: Feb 2000
: Lynchburg, VA
: 43
: 12,536
Yes, and make sure you use that 60 grit on both bumpers, all the ground effects, door ding guards, door handles, and mirrors untill you get down to bare metal.




Nate is right, if you want to strip it, use aircraft stripper.

With gloves........ doubled up for the double coyote hooker effect.
__________________







----- Sold within NEPO and PT




----- STUPID FAST



----- Damn I miss her.
 
October 9th, 2008, 09:19 PM   #39
usdmrice
Member
 
: May 2008
: New Alexandria, Pennsylvania
: 31
: 319
hahaha wow 60 grit... Taking it down to bare metal is alot of work for no point, unless your doing a complete restore and media blasting yadda yadda. start with 220 if the paint is that bad, and only sand enough to smooth things out. Then switch to 320 as mr williams said. Get the whole car lookin good with 320 before you prime. Save yourself a headache and spend good money on good high build primer, and ask everyone you can about it and make sure it is shrink resistant. Sanding it with 60 grit like a moron means a year after you paint your car, and its all shmexy, that the paint will not look as if it was brushed on. After you prime it, let it bake in the sun for a day to let the primer settle. Then begin with 400 and a flex rubber block. Get yourself some powdered guide coat after your first 400 run, to be assured you got all the high and low spots. Do as much metal work as you can and avoid bondo until you ABSOLUTELY need it. I personally get ll metal work straightened away and usually only have to use "icing" to do the minor repair. The better you apply any lightweight filler the more hassle you save. After you have wetsanded with 400 on primer, try to always stick to wet grit there on after. If your sure your car is doen as far as body work goes, make sure the car is well sanded with 400 and get yourself some sealer, any sort you like. Spray it on generously. If the body is 100%, then move onto all jambs and edges. Use a red/brown scuffing pad until your arm is ready to fall off on every crevice of your car, because every edge is your weakest link. Dont skip out on this, because one day when your pressure washing your car, it will bite you in the ass when your paint flakes off. Only lightly apply primer to any of these ares once they are scuffed well enough. Well this is it for the paint preparation stage. Remember, the best paintjobs are all in the prep work. Dont leave a mark behind on primer saying "o the paint will cover it" because it wont.
__________________
"VrmmPshh-My Anti Drug"
 
October 12th, 2008, 09:29 PM   #40
egman2005
Slow Learner
 
: Oct 2008
: Mi
: 38
above is pretty good for most jobs.

whats the cheapest method for painting a car? Its just going to be my winter beater so it doesnt have to be perfect
 
October 14th, 2008, 10:26 PM   #41
usdmrice
Member
 
: May 2008
: New Alexandria, Pennsylvania
: 31
: 319
Enamel based paint, single stage. Go to napa. Thats your best bet. Rattle can primer to save yourself money. I wouldnt do any more work for a winter beater. Hell my car is kitted and turbod and i run black primer; Pennsylvania roads are horrible.
__________________
"VrmmPshh-My Anti Drug"
 
December 24th, 2008, 12:02 PM   #42
Silver Sinsei
Donating Member
 
 
: Dec 2002
: North Bend, OR
: 36
: 5,299
:
Just prime the spot where the chip was, after you smooth it out. Scuff the whole fender, and paint JUst where the primer is. After the primer is covered, go out around the whole are 2-4 inches and blend in the paint si its not noticable. You DON NOT have to PAINT teh whole fender. after that CLEAR the whole fender, let dry, wet sand, buff, beautiful!!


can we get more in depth on that? Im much more confused about only repainting say a dent, then repainting the whole car. My mom constantly runs into things, so her car will be perfect to practice on. I'll have her pay for everything, i get to practice, she'll get her car fixed for the cost of materials. Its a win win. Plus its a common event
__________________
-Jimmy Forester
 
September 17th, 2009, 08:58 PM   #43
Eclipse
Turbo Member
 
: Apr 2000
: Osoyoos, BC, Canada
: 1,970
my write up is still the closest to the real deal your going to get on here.... and 60 grit is the dumbest thing i have read on here in a longggg time.
__________________
u should have died in that wreck. natural selection just isnt what it used to be...





shoot down a ufo.. they have a sweet drivetrain
 
October 1st, 2010, 09:07 PM   #44
phippy
Donating User
 
: Oct 2010
: Farmington, MN
: 202
60 is like dropping fly paper in a sand box... i would use chemical strippers before goin that stout on the abrasives...
 
January 23rd, 2011, 10:00 AM   #45
ELGT
Jr. Member
 
: Jan 2011
: Virginia
: 135
Paint Masks ;O)

I'm brand new here, hello! .... Since this thread is about painting and all. My husband's business makes paint masks with vinyl. He has those big machines that cut designs and all, so I wanted to mention if any of you wanted paint masks I'm sure he would be happy to help he's an awesome artist. Just ask, he loves his 2 probe GT's. One is a 5 speed and one is an auto. He did his own graphics on the silver one. As soon as I have more posts on here it will let me put pics and I'll show everyone. Anyway welcome me here, I'm new. :O)

Megan
 
March 4th, 2011, 07:28 PM   #46
natecade1
Dedicated Member
 
 
: Feb 2006
: Calabasas, CA
: 31
: 4,525
what part of Va are you in?
__________________
2005 BMW r1200GS - fully dressed adv machine
2006 Suzuki SV650 - naked squid machine
 
March 6th, 2011, 03:05 AM   #47
CaliProbe93
Slow Learner
 
: Mar 2011
: Bay Area
: 59
: 41
Does anyone still shoot lacquer anymore? If you donít have the luxury of a lab-like dust-free space and need a paint that is not as fickle as urethanes or ChromaBase etc lacquer seems a good choice to me since you have to rub it out anyhow, if the worse happens and some gnat ends up in the top coat he will get rubbed out of it. Plus the deep color it has (the paint not the gnat).
 
November 21st, 2013, 06:14 AM   #48
Phat '93PGT
Five Star Member
 
 
: Jul 2000
: Chillicothe, OH
: 37
: 3,908
what about respraying the car factory color.

my rio red is faded in some spots, has some dings. i was gonna fill the dings, scuff the hole car. do i need to lay down primer on the whole car? Or can i just primer the filled spots, scuff car and then lay my base color over that?
__________________
96 PGT
Gettin' there.....slowly


 
November 21st, 2013, 06:49 AM   #49
natecade1
Dedicated Member
 
 
: Feb 2006
: Calabasas, CA
: 31
: 4,525
:
what about respraying the car factory color.

my rio red is faded in some spots, has some dings. i was gonna fill the dings, scuff the hole car. do i need to lay down primer on the whole car? Or can i just primer the filled spots, scuff car and then lay my base color over that?
be careful with "fill" definitely don't use bondo for any depression more than 1/8".

But yes, you could repair the dings, prime, make sure you feather the edges really well.

The whole car certainly doesn't need primer. I usually use 800 wet if I'm going to spray color over non-repaired areas. If you're going to blend the repaired areas and simply clear the rest then 1500 wet is a good choice.

A lot of people preach against wetsanding cause it's so "time consuming" and prefer stuff like 600 random orbital.
__________________
2005 BMW r1200GS - fully dressed adv machine
2006 Suzuki SV650 - naked squid machine
 
November 21st, 2013, 06:54 AM   #50
Phat '93PGT
Five Star Member
 
 
: Jul 2000
: Chillicothe, OH
: 37
: 3,908
id have to spray the whole car. i have a few door dings and a couple dings in the roof. i was just gonna fill, sand the whole car and respray the whole car red and do the top black.

just didnt want to prime the whole car if i didn't need to ya know.
__________________
96 PGT
Gettin' there.....slowly


 

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