Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Timing Belt - Water Pump - Oil Pump - Replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Timing Belt - Water Pump - Oil Pump - Replacement

    Agent SE--

    What up,

    (authors note: I just got home after doing this job on my car all day, I've tried my best to recall every step taken, but I'm quite frazzled and if you've done this work before and see something left out, LMK I will add it!)

    For those that are interested, I did the timing belt, water pump, and revised oil pump replacement today. I also swapped out the front pipe with a new one, and changed the timing belt tensioner spring, and valve-cover gasket. I will discuss only the timing belt, water and oil pump because they are probably of best interest. It took me about 9 hours to do the whole thing, keep in mind this is the first timing belt I’ve ever changed, and the oil and water pumps were no picnic either. To make this whole thing a lot easier I has the following things at my disposal:

    I work at Ford, so I had access to a lift.
    A 3-bar engine raise/support
    Access to a technicians entire toolbox
    The advice of a fellow Ford technician if needed.
    1993 Ford Probe shop manual

    Keep in mind these thing came in very handy and made the job go a lot smoother for me. I first started out doing the timing belt, although I wish I had removed the water pump pulley while the belt was still on holding tension on the pulley, it would have made removal a lot easier. (keep that in mind) I did this myself and this post is only for reference so I take no responsibility if you screw up your car while trying to do this.
    The following steps were taken to remove the timing belt:
    -remove valve cover
    -(if you are changing the water pump too, it’s a good idea to break the bolts loose on the water pump pulley before you take tension off the belt in the next step)
    -loosen power steering pump tension bolt and through bolt
    -loosen alternator tension bolt and upper mount bolt.
    -raise engine slightly and remove upper left engine mount
    -remove upper timing cover
    -raise vehicle and remove front right wheel and splash guard
    -lower engine slightly and remove crankshaft pulley (21mm socket)
    -remove lower timing cover, lower vehicle
    -using 7mm allen key (I believe it was 7) turn tensioner to side and remove old timing belt
    -be sure to align the crankshaft by turning it to TDC, do not loose the woodruff pin insert that is on the top of the crankshaft, align the notch on the crankshaft with the marking on oil pump. (approximately 12 o’clock position)
    -align both intake and exhaust cams at the position of 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively, the ‘I’ on the intake cam, and the ‘E’ on the exhaust cam should both meet and be even with each other. (there is a small chock tool available from Ford that you can now place inbetween the cams so that they do not move)
    -making sure crankshaft stays aligned, place belt around crankshaft and up to top. (the timing belt goes on the inside of the upper tensioner pulleys in a V shape)
    -using 7mm socket, turn tensioner to side again and install new belt (this is also a good time to replace the timing belt tensioner spring which is located behind the left side tensioner, the tensioner can be removed with a 14mm wrench)
    -putting everything back is the reverse of the above procedure


    --Agent
    Eric
    96 Miata M
    We're all still learning...


  • #2
    AgentSE--

    --CHANGING OIL PUMP AND WATER PUMP WHILE ENGINE IS DISMANTLED FOR TIMING BELT—

    If you plan on swapping out the water pump and using the revised oil pump this is what is needed to be done:

    Oil pump- (if you have A/C, you compressor must be removed as it is bolted into the block and oil pump, this does not mean you will drain your A/C system, you are merely unbolting the 4 bolts that hold it on, and the bracket that it mounts to.)

    -With crankshaft pulley off remove the 7 bolt that hold the oil pump in place. (top 4 bolts are smaller than the bottom 3)
    -Remove front exhaust pipe
    -Remove drain plug, drain oil.
    -Remove oil pan. (gently pry or else you will bend!)
    -(Altough it is recommended to remove the stiffener plate, I did not do so because it really isn’t necessary, since the bottom of the oil pump is sealed to the top of the stiffiner on one end with silicon, it make be prone to leakage if you don’t re-seal the whole stiffener, however I feel with enough sealant added to oil pump and visible stiffener area that the stiffener does not need to be removed. I used Ford Ultra Silicone Sealant (grey in color, RTV)
    -remove pickup tube from stiffener, replace gasket upon reinstallation
    - pry old pump off, and remove dipstick tube
    -(NOTE: the new oil pump does not come with the 2 o-rings for the pump, you either re-use yours or you can get new ones from Ford or Mazda. There is one o-ring on the top of the pump, and one on the bottom).
    -clean all surfaces thoroughly using razor blade to remove old gasket material (oil pan, block, and stiffener plate.
    -be sure to prime the new oil pump by pouring some oil into the pickup hole until full and turning the gear to remove air and prime the seals.
    -apply RTV sealant to the pump where specified (there is a small groove that goes along the inner perimeter, also apply silicone to the top of the stiffener and the corners where the oil pump contacts.
    -carefully press oil pump back in place and be sure that the crank seal does not pop out, reinstall bolts.
    -reinstall pickup tube with new gasket
    -apply RTV sealant to entire outer edge of oil pan, reinstall bolts and dipstick tube

    ATTENTION- certain types of sealants like the Ford type must be allowed to sit overnight to cure before adding oil or starting engine!


    Water pump- The water pump is located to the left and below the power steering pump, it is directly below the right-side timing belt tensioner. The pump is in a bad spot and is very difficult to get to. As mentioned before the timing cover must be removed to access the bolts that hold it on.

    -DRAIN COOLANT
    -having removed the 4 pulley bolts as mentioned earlier, remove right timing belt tensioner (14mm)
    -remove the several bolts that hold the pump on (there is a rubber stopper located on the top and bottom of the water pump, if your new one did not come with them, save them and use them on the new water pump)
    -dry area and replace gasket and pump
    -replace right timing belt tensioner
    -replace water pump pulley

    For the most part, that’s it. You will need a lot of tools and a lift/floor jack/shop manual would be very helpful! This job was a pain for me because I usually don’t do this type of work. I did all this work today and I’m quite tired and if you see any mistakes let me know and I’ll correct it. Not to mention my hands are all cut up and shit. I hope this helps anyone out that needs it and if you have any questions just catch me on IM! Expect to put aside a whole day for a job like this. Good Luck.

    --Agent
    Eric
    96 Miata M
    We're all still learning...

    Comment


    • #3
      The following are pictures displaying the process for timing belt replacement.



      Nylie--


      I took my car in today to have the timing belt and water pump replaced. Iram was nice enough to let snap shots as he went. Hope this helps some of you 2.0 folks. I tried to put these in the best order I could, as he worked. If you have any questions about any of the photos, let me know.

      The process isn't complete because one of the parts was not ordered. The car is still sitting on the lift.

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt1.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt2.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt3.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt4.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt5.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt6.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt7.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt8.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt9.jpg

      http://images.geekazoids.net/tbelt10.jpg
      Eric
      96 Miata M
      We're all still learning...

      Comment

      Working...
      X