Agent SE--
What up,
(authors note: I just got home after doing this job on my car all day, I've tried my best to recall every step taken, but I'm quite frazzled and if you've done this work before and see something left out, LMK I will add it!)
For those that are interested, I did the timing belt, water pump, and revised oil pump replacement today. I also swapped out the front pipe with a new one, and changed the timing belt tensioner spring, and valve-cover gasket. I will discuss only the timing belt, water and oil pump because they are probably of best interest. It took me about 9 hours to do the whole thing, keep in mind this is the first timing belt I’ve ever changed, and the oil and water pumps were no picnic either. To make this whole thing a lot easier I has the following things at my disposal:
I work at Ford, so I had access to a lift.
A 3-bar engine raise/support
Access to a technicians entire toolbox
The advice of a fellow Ford technician if needed.
1993 Ford Probe shop manual
Keep in mind these thing came in very handy and made the job go a lot smoother for me. I first started out doing the timing belt, although I wish I had removed the water pump pulley while the belt was still on holding tension on the pulley, it would have made removal a lot easier. (keep that in mind) I did this myself and this post is only for reference so I take no responsibility if you screw up your car while trying to do this.
The following steps were taken to remove the timing belt:
-remove valve cover
-(if you are changing the water pump too, it’s a good idea to break the bolts loose on the water pump pulley before you take tension off the belt in the next step)
-loosen power steering pump tension bolt and through bolt
-loosen alternator tension bolt and upper mount bolt.
-raise engine slightly and remove upper left engine mount
-remove upper timing cover
-raise vehicle and remove front right wheel and splash guard
-lower engine slightly and remove crankshaft pulley (21mm socket)
-remove lower timing cover, lower vehicle
-using 7mm allen key (I believe it was 7) turn tensioner to side and remove old timing belt
-be sure to align the crankshaft by turning it to TDC, do not loose the woodruff pin insert that is on the top of the crankshaft, align the notch on the crankshaft with the marking on oil pump. (approximately 12 o’clock position)
-align both intake and exhaust cams at the position of 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively, the ‘I’ on the intake cam, and the ‘E’ on the exhaust cam should both meet and be even with each other. (there is a small chock tool available from Ford that you can now place inbetween the cams so that they do not move)
-making sure crankshaft stays aligned, place belt around crankshaft and up to top. (the timing belt goes on the inside of the upper tensioner pulleys in a V shape)
-using 7mm socket, turn tensioner to side again and install new belt (this is also a good time to replace the timing belt tensioner spring which is located behind the left side tensioner, the tensioner can be removed with a 14mm wrench)
-putting everything back is the reverse of the above procedure
--Agent
What up,
(authors note: I just got home after doing this job on my car all day, I've tried my best to recall every step taken, but I'm quite frazzled and if you've done this work before and see something left out, LMK I will add it!)
For those that are interested, I did the timing belt, water pump, and revised oil pump replacement today. I also swapped out the front pipe with a new one, and changed the timing belt tensioner spring, and valve-cover gasket. I will discuss only the timing belt, water and oil pump because they are probably of best interest. It took me about 9 hours to do the whole thing, keep in mind this is the first timing belt I’ve ever changed, and the oil and water pumps were no picnic either. To make this whole thing a lot easier I has the following things at my disposal:
I work at Ford, so I had access to a lift.
A 3-bar engine raise/support
Access to a technicians entire toolbox
The advice of a fellow Ford technician if needed.
1993 Ford Probe shop manual
Keep in mind these thing came in very handy and made the job go a lot smoother for me. I first started out doing the timing belt, although I wish I had removed the water pump pulley while the belt was still on holding tension on the pulley, it would have made removal a lot easier. (keep that in mind) I did this myself and this post is only for reference so I take no responsibility if you screw up your car while trying to do this.
The following steps were taken to remove the timing belt:
-remove valve cover
-(if you are changing the water pump too, it’s a good idea to break the bolts loose on the water pump pulley before you take tension off the belt in the next step)
-loosen power steering pump tension bolt and through bolt
-loosen alternator tension bolt and upper mount bolt.
-raise engine slightly and remove upper left engine mount
-remove upper timing cover
-raise vehicle and remove front right wheel and splash guard
-lower engine slightly and remove crankshaft pulley (21mm socket)
-remove lower timing cover, lower vehicle
-using 7mm allen key (I believe it was 7) turn tensioner to side and remove old timing belt
-be sure to align the crankshaft by turning it to TDC, do not loose the woodruff pin insert that is on the top of the crankshaft, align the notch on the crankshaft with the marking on oil pump. (approximately 12 o’clock position)
-align both intake and exhaust cams at the position of 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively, the ‘I’ on the intake cam, and the ‘E’ on the exhaust cam should both meet and be even with each other. (there is a small chock tool available from Ford that you can now place inbetween the cams so that they do not move)
-making sure crankshaft stays aligned, place belt around crankshaft and up to top. (the timing belt goes on the inside of the upper tensioner pulleys in a V shape)
-using 7mm socket, turn tensioner to side again and install new belt (this is also a good time to replace the timing belt tensioner spring which is located behind the left side tensioner, the tensioner can be removed with a 14mm wrench)
-putting everything back is the reverse of the above procedure
--Agent
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