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2nd Gen (93-97) I4 2.0L Performance Discussion of Performance topics for I4 2.0L

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Old May 23rd, 2012, 01:28 PM   #1
SadFacedBunny
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V6 swap ?

anyone have a v6 swap guide?

---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------

and how to switch from auto to stick
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 01:53 PM   #2
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Step 1: Sell your auto/2.0 car
Step 2: Buy V6 5spd car.
Step 3: ?????
Step 4: Profit.
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 02:09 PM   #3
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it would be much cheaper to sell you car and buy a 5spd gt, Your car really is clean so you should have no problem selling it,
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 02:13 PM   #4
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Pretty much it would be
-buy engine
-buy all mounts
-buy transmission
-buy trans swap parts (clutch pedal, linkages, flywheel, hydraulic lines, clutch, etc.)
-buy engine harness
-buy ecu
-buy lots of Excedrin because you are going to have a lot of headaches.


It really would be loads cheaper and a hulluva lot easier to just buy a gt in mtx form. Hell, if you have the time and place for that type of project, find a gt with a blown motor for 4 or 5 hundred bucks and drop in a klze.
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BOYSENBERRY! When I go for a drive, I leave life behind. Friends, work, everything. Its just me, the car, and a twisty road. The exhilaration of being on the edge of catastrophe is something that I will never be able to give up.There will come a time when you believe everything is finished. That will be the beginning.
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 06:49 PM   #5
fordprobegt67
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i just did this and had a few hiccups but nothing major pretty easy
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 10:08 PM   #6
SadFacedBunny
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what hiccups ? ne advice
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 10:18 PM   #7
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I think that if it was MTX to start out with, it would be fine. A KL swap into a base or SE is no problem. It's going from ATX to MTX that is the headache.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 01:00 PM   #8
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well not really only thing is the wiring harness really.... pull the motor and the ATX to MTX is a Piece of Cake.... after pulling the motor u need to pull the master cylinder also pop out the White Piece of plastic next to it on the drivers side for the Clutch master cylinder. also your going to have to change the Rack or if u dont wanna change the whole rack change out the line that runs to the pump cause they r different mounting styles from I4 to V6... then this is where the real pain/fun begins lol... pull off your drivers side fender.. pull both your front seats out and dash/center counsel out basically all the plastic in the front of the car has to come off... then u have to unhook all the wiring harness under the dash to the fuse box in lower drivers kick pannel..unhook all the wiring that runs to all the way to the passenger side to the ECU wiring harness so radio and all that over there heater and all that.. now on the drivers side the wiring that runs back to the rear of the car can stay its the same for both cars.. after u get it all unhooked and ready to be pulled through the fender area and the engine bay.. the harness that connects to the Speedo u should be able to take it right out... go to the fender or engine bay what ever one u wanna do first... engine bay u have to unbolt from the back of the engine bay and then u can pull that through.. the fender one u will have to unbolt the Fuse box under the hood unbolt some ground wires remember where u unbolt them from... and un clip the wires that run along the fender and that should be ready to pull... after u get it all out then u need to unbolt the break peddle and take it out then un bolt the shifter now the auto shifter has a cable that runs to the key that pulls a little rod to unlock the key so u can start in park.. unhook that cable and u can zip tie that little lever closed and wont have to worry about it any longer....im sure i might have left a couple things out but ill think of it and add to the post
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Old May 24th, 2012, 01:13 PM   #9
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I did it, made a guide of sorts just search for my nick and threads started.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 02:56 PM   #10
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yea i check out the guides for when i was having problems with it not getting spark come to find out my speedo was blowing fuses something was shorting out inside the speedo
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91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
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Old May 24th, 2012, 08:13 PM   #11
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snip.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 08:23 PM   #12
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^^^
What does this have to do with the subject matter of this thread? Nothing. You have been a member of this forum for 11 years and don't know the rules? There's a specific section for this clutter.
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Currently: 1994 MX6 RS - KLZE. Too many mods.

1989 PGT - BLACK - Near perfect paint, body completely straight. 155,967 mi. Sitting in a garage since 2000. Bought for $600. Engine rebuild in progress. Coming soon to a kill story thread near you!!!

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Old May 24th, 2012, 08:29 PM   #13
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I didn't have to pull the seats or dash when I removed that harness during my I4 to V6 swap. The rack didn't need to be touched, either. Are you sure those aren't things associated with the ATX to MTX aspect?
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Currently: 1994 MX6 RS - KLZE. Too many mods.

1989 PGT - BLACK - Near perfect paint, body completely straight. 155,967 mi. Sitting in a garage since 2000. Bought for $600. Engine rebuild in progress. Coming soon to a kill story thread near you!!!
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Old May 24th, 2012, 08:35 PM   #14
fordprobegt67
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well for one the power steering runs across the top of the I4 and is in the back of the motor on the V6 and the bolts to stop it from spinning the line bolts up different

---------- Post added at 10:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ----------

you dont need to remove the seats but it is way more comfortable with them out and it is easier to disconnect the harness for the speedo with the dash out.. depending on the years that dash wiring has to be swapped out
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old May 24th, 2012, 08:43 PM   #15
94mx6lsze
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I assumed you were talking about the whole rack itself. Then I re-read your post. I re-routed my PS pressure hose to the passenger side rear corner of the engine bay and zip-tied it in place. I also did mine on an MX6, so the dash trim probably comes off easier than the Probe, just like the rest of the interior. That might be why I am able to pull the instrument cluster from my MX6 in less than 5 minutes, whereas it takes an hour to pull my Probe's cluster.
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Currently: 1994 MX6 RS - KLZE. Too many mods.

1989 PGT - BLACK - Near perfect paint, body completely straight. 155,967 mi. Sitting in a garage since 2000. Bought for $600. Engine rebuild in progress. Coming soon to a kill story thread near you!!!

Last edited by 94mx6lsze; May 24th, 2012 at 08:44 PM.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:11 PM   #16
fordprobegt67
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yea for sure
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 11:15 AM   #17
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If you got the time and the knowhow, then go for it
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