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  ProbeTalk.com Forums > Tech Section > 1st Gen (89-92) All > 1st Gen (89-92) Archive

1st Gen (89-92) Archive THE place to find your basic maintenance questions asked about the 1G probe/mx-6.

 
 
November 16th, 2009, 01:21 AM   #1
BoostedMan
Donating User
 
: Oct 2005
: Brandon, FL
: 41
: 7,200
How To Repair and change HLA's

How to replace Hydraulic Lash Adjusters for the 88'-92' Ford Probe
2.2L 4-cylinder engine with or without turbo.

1.) Remove PCV hoses from valve cover.
Tools needed; Hands

2.) Loosen Valve cover bolts.
Tools required: 3/8 drive ratchet, 3/8 drive 6' inch extension, 10mm socket

3.) Loosen rocker arm assembly bolts. When loosening the bolts, loosen them in a pattern, loosen the first one starting from left to right skipping one ever time, and then going back to the left from the right skipping one ever time till they are all loosened.
Also do the same pattern when tightening these bolts after you have installed the rocker arm assembly back in the cylinder head.
Tools required: 3/8 drive ratchet, 3/8 drive 6' inch extension, 12mm socket

4.) When removing the rocker assembly leave the bolts in the assembly for easy reassembly.

5.)Replace HLA's as necessary,

6.)Use pliers to remove the HLA as shown in the picture. When you are inspected each HLA, you should be looking for collapsed HLA's and also a really loud tapper can be a burnt HLA, these are like frozen and will not adjust anymore, you can check for these by doing a compress test with each HLA, by putting them in some clean oil and try compressing them your fingers or pliers carefully, They should compress and squirt out oil out one end, if it doesn't compress and its hard as a rock toss it and get a replacement.

Tools required: Pliers, clean oil, spray can cap to put oil in.

7.)Reinstall the rocker arm assembly into the cylinder head, Might be handy to have another person help you install the rocker arm assembly in the cylinder head. Watch the springs.
Make sure all rocker arms all lined up with the valves.
Torque the bolts to 13 ft-lbs, or about 200 inch lbs, this is dependent on what type of torque wrench you have. (in or ft.lbs wrench)

Tools required: 3/8 drive ratchet, 3/8 drive 6' inch extension, 12mm socket, 3/8 drive Torque wrench

8.)Reinstall the valve cover, I recommend as an option at this time to replace the factory bolts, and replace them with new ones from your local auto parts store or dealership, also if you need a new valve cover gasket this is a good time to change it. Get a Mazda OEM Gasket, their the best! Don't forget the RTV on the gasket on each side of the hump. Small bead!
When tightening the valve cover bolts I recommend using just a 1/4 ratchet and extension and the 10mm socket, Tighten in a criss cross pattern by hand tightening with just using the extension like a screwdriver, and then one little snug with 1/4 ratchet. The bolts don't need much torque, very small amount.

Here are some pics to help you in this related repair
Rocker Arm assembly removed from cylinder head
HLA Location
Using pliers to remove HLA, I did this with one hand, so their easy to get out
HLA Removed, This an example of a good HLA
Bottom of HLA
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November 16th, 2009, 07:56 AM   #2
blackwidow67
Donating User
 
: May 2008
: long island ny
: 28
: 136
awesome. i need this. thanks boosted.
 
November 16th, 2009, 09:21 AM   #3
diamondragon16
Jr. Member
 
: Jun 2009
: GA
: 142
I have to say thats pretty awesome. Did you take yours apart just to show us?


If so. Your pretty dedicated!
 
November 16th, 2009, 09:54 AM   #4
BoostedMan
Donating User
 
: Oct 2005
: Brandon, FL
: 41
: 7,200
nope lol hasn't had an hla problem in years, I didn't take pics of every step just the rockerarms and hla's, putting them up in a sec

well I'll be putting the pics up this evening had to go into work
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: Automerged Doublepost
 
November 16th, 2009, 03:16 PM   #5
Badandy44
PT Know it All
 
: Jul 2005
: watertown ny
: 31
: 4,275
MX6.com has a great write up on this also.
__________________
93 PGT-ZE-T<---- Yes T as in turbo.
89 PGT
 
November 17th, 2009, 10:27 AM   #6
anomaly
Official Pr0n Approver!
 
 
: Jun 2001
: 80s NYC
: 15,057
Nice work!

Stickied.
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Enjoy PT?

 
November 17th, 2009, 11:34 AM   #7
BoostedMan
Donating User
 
: Oct 2005
: Brandon, FL
: 41
: 7,200
pics added
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November 23rd, 2009, 02:28 PM   #8
Hellrazor
Supercharged Member
 
: Oct 2005
: Oslo, Norway
: 1,029
Great !!
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Probe GT 2.2 turbo intercooler -91



Garrett GT3076R, Turbonetics NEWgen wastegate, big IC, 3inch custom exhaust, Wiseco pistons, Pauter rods, Performance bearings, Eibach springs/tokico shocks, Probeinator chip, MBC, KN air filter, A/F ratio Autometer, MSD 6AL, SSBlaster coil, 8,3mm plugs, ClutchMaster stage 2, Findanza alu flyweel, Engine mounts, Toyo proxes T1r tires, and every bushing replaced.
 
January 16th, 2010, 12:51 PM   #9
donfrmpa
Guest
 
: Oct 2009
: 17
thanks, this post made the job real easy,
 
April 14th, 2010, 03:33 PM   #10
Undertowww
Donating Member
 
: May 2007
: Waterloo, ON
: 324
Boosted, thanks for the pics and info.

I've been searching this topic for a while now, and have a few questions before I actually do the job. Basically I have a set of lifters I got online, think they actually came from a probe. My plan is to just chuck these ones in after taking the old ones out. So, 3 questions:

1) I'm finding conflicts between what is a good and bad lifter. I want to make sure these ones are good before putting them in. Obviously a siezed one isnt any good. In your write up here, you said they should compress easily, where as another person on the mazda site said "If you can, let the parts sit overnight. Now get out the WD-40. Get one HLA and put the Jewler's screwdriver in the bottom. When you push a valve should move. Now squirt some WD-40 in there and then clean the rest of the HLA with it. Once you're done, try and squeeze the HLA with your hand as hard as you can. If the HLA squeezes, it's bad. Get one HLA from the 12 you took from the yard and throw it in with the rest of them in the bucket. Once an HLA passes, put it aside", which is conflicting to what you said, though I trust ya. So should they be able to compress easily by hand, with or without holding that valve in the bottom? Cause I've tried it with this set I have, and they still push easily. But they look good....

2) There is a post on how to take these things apart. Does that provide any benefit over just soaking them?

3) What about this delicate silicone seal around the HLA some others talk about? Is it much to worry about if you're careful at what you're doing?

I plan to soak this replacement set I have in oil and shoot em with WD40, then just slap em in. But I also wanna make sure they're in good shape. Thanks for all the help.

Sam
 
April 14th, 2010, 04:44 PM   #11
BoostedMan
Donating User
 
: Oct 2005
: Brandon, FL
: 41
: 7,200
1.) I recommend soaking them overnight in clean oil.

2.) If you can compress them completely down with your finger as easy as squeezing a cloths pin, and it doesn't come back up, it's definatly no good.

3.) How the hla is designed; they recieve oil through the rocker arm and they pump up and hold the desired distance between the rocker arm and valve top.

(after years of heat and if oil changes weren't done frequent enough, the passages become clogged and the hla it's self becomes frozen, and it looses it's strength.)

You should only be able to squeeze them down with some pliers, which is necessary to do with them in some clean oil to squart out old gunk and prime them up with some clean oil.

Now if you come across an hla that you can not even squeeze down with pliers, and seams likely frozen toss it, it will never work properly in the rocker arm.

silcone seal wouldn't worry about

major things; the small oil passage in the rocker arm is clean and the oil passage in the hla is clean, and the hla is primed/ pumped up and holding it's own.

i should take some pics of different bad hla's and good ones, might do this coming up son, if i have any bad ones around.
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April 14th, 2010, 04:57 PM   #12
Undertowww
Donating Member
 
: May 2007
: Waterloo, ON
: 324
Thanks alot for the reply. So to clarify, when testing them by pushing them, is this done with or without them sitting in oil? Testing these dry ones I have in front of me here sitting on my dresser, they all push down by hand fairly easy, and pop back up. Does this mean they're pushing down too easy? Or are they good cause they pop back up? Or should I be checking them in oil? Thanks for your help.

sam
 
April 14th, 2010, 05:33 PM   #13
BoostedMan
Donating User
 
: Oct 2005
: Brandon, FL
: 41
: 7,200
First compress them outside of oil to squirt out old junk, than test in oil.
They should become a little more difficult to compress once they are pumped up with oil which is how they would be in the engine.
__________________


 
April 14th, 2010, 05:48 PM   #14
Undertowww
Donating Member
 
: May 2007
: Waterloo, ON
: 324
Ok, can do. I can snap some pics/vids of the old ones once I pull them out. They've been sittin in there since 91.
 
April 24th, 2010, 10:07 PM   #15
anomaly
Official Pr0n Approver!
 
 
: Jun 2001
: 80s NYC
: 15,057
Moving to the archives. PM me if you can't add or need to add additional information.
__________________
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~

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&

~


"Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

Enjoy PT?

 
 

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