Pauter Rod Question

[KLZEEscortGT]

So I picked up a set of 6 Pauter Rods from a gentleman in my area. He had them in a KLZE with Weisco pistons that were 20 thou over bore. I was told by him that I need to bore the block at least 20 thou over so the rods will clear. Has anyone had to do this before?? Also if I do have to bore the block is there anything else i will need to add in parts or anything else to take into consideration??

[mx6gt04]

I have no experience with that per se, but I do know with H beams, you have to "notch" the bottom of the cylinder, then slide the rod up through the bottom and put the piston on. Kinda a lame method.

If that's the case, you could use the same method and just notch with a stock bore. But if you have 20 over pistons you're using, then it doesnt matter anyways, right? Not like you can change the pistons back to stock bore so I don't understand what the question is or why it is a concern in your case.

If you're using or want to use stock bore pistons though, then you could notch if it turns out the rod is too fat

[KLZEEscortGT]

Like I have a set of milly S rods, and i put them next to the pauter rods and there is a sizeable difference. So I guess I want to know if a KL block will take boost and not warp if I did decide to go with over bore pistons?? Or would I be best notch the block and keep stock bore pistons?? I will be looking for overall reliability.

[mx6gt04]

The KL block is strong enough. 500 or so is fine.

The transmission is not. You should be more worried about the transmission.

I personally avoid boring any of my engines out if possible. It's generally pointless and screws up the engineered cylinder-coolant heat transfer rate

If the cylinders are so far off they need bored, then ok maybe. But otherwise no,

[Zepticon]

The KL block is strong enough. 500 or so is fine.

I have heard the exact oposite. The KL wall sleves are super thin and the most you should ever overbore is 40 They appear thcker than they are, because of the flange in the top.

[KLZEEscortGT]

I have heard the exact oposite. The KL wall sleves are super thin and the most you should ever overbore is 40 They appear thcker than they are, because of the flange in the top.

That is EXACTLY what im worried about.

---------- Post added at 05:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 AM ----------

The KL block is strong enough. 500 or so is fine.

The transmission is not. You should be more worried about the transmission.

I personally avoid boring any of my engines out if possible. It's generally pointless and screws up the engineered cylinder-coolant heat transfer rate

If the cylinders are so far off they need bored, then ok maybe. But otherwise no,

Not really worried about the tranny as I know they are weak to begin with. Luckily I can get the JDM ones in Montreal(which is not that far from me) for around the 200$ mark.

[Zepticon]

If you are going NA, overbore can give you more compression, of you are going turbo, get some decent comp pistons and a good tune and you will make lots of power. Oiling is going to be the problem long before anything else.

[Greg 94 PGT]

So I picked up a set of 6 Pauter Rods from a gentleman in my area. He had them in a KLZE with Weisco pistons that were 20 thou over bore. I was told by him that I need to bore the block at least 20 thou over so the rods will clear. Has anyone had to do this before?? Also if I do have to bore the block is there anything else i will need to add in parts or anything else to take into consideration??

What he probably meant to say was you need to notch the block for the larger rods.

The problem is most rods/pistons can be assembled and then inserted from the top down into the cylinder.

But when the rods get too big (too wide) that just isn't an option. So your machine shop will need to "notch" the bottom of the cylinder walls to allow extra room for you to insert the rods from the bottom and slide them up, so you can then attach the piston.

I had to do this for my rurockn rods.

[KLZEEscortGT]

If you are going NA, overbore can give you more compression, of you are going turbo, get some decent comp pistons and a good tune and you will make lots of power. Oiling is going to be the problem long before anything else.

I was going to go with 8.5:1 comp weiscos, definitely be tuned and I was told to plastiguage the cam caps, and bring them closer to minimum specs to help with oiling. Don't know if that will work, but I would imagine it would definitely help out.

[KLZEEscortGT]

What he probably meant to say was you need to notch the block for the larger rods.

The problem is most rods/pistons can be assembled and then inserted from the top down into the cylinder.

But when the rods get too big (too wide) that just isn't an option. So your machine shop will need to "notch" the bottom of the cylinder walls to allow extra room for you to insert the rods from the bottom and slide them up, so you can then attach the piston.

I had to do this for my rurockn rods.

Not trying to be ignorant here as im just looking for some help, but he 100% for sure said he was running 20 thou over weisco's that were low compression. I'm almost 100% positive that I would not want to bore anymore than 20 thou over as I'm going for a DD kinda reliability kinda thing.

[Greg 94 PGT]

Not trying to be ignorant here as im just looking for some help, but he 100% for sure said he was running 20 thou over weisco's that were low compression. I'm almost 100% positive that I would not want to bore anymore than 20 thou over as I'm going for a DD kinda reliability kinda thing.

No problem, but the piston width and the rod width may cause you two different problems.

The pistons are 20 thousandths over, so for those you need to widen the cylinder walls 20 thousandths.

The rods may be a different situation, if they are wider than the cylinder walls, even after you bore them 20 thousandths over, you would have to notch the block (as I mentioned above).

To be honest I haven't seen pauter rods in person, but if they are h beam rods they probably are too wide to slide down from the top. I *think* they are too wide to install from the top.

For instance, I am running 20 over Diamond pistons and Rurockn H beam rods. I had to bore the cylinders so the pistons would fit, then I had to have my machine shop notch the block (bottom of the cylinder walls) for the rods to be installed (from the bottom).

Because with the piston and the rods assembled they would not be able to fit using the normal way of sliding the whole assembly down the cylinder to install.

[mac1]

but he 100% for sure said he was running 20 thou over weisco's that were low compression.

Yeah, that's why he "USED" to have them. Dont overbore anything.

---------- Post added at 08:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 AM ----------

I have heard the exact oposite. The KL wall sleves are super thin and the most you should ever overbore is 40 They appear thcker than they are, because of the flange in the top.

Mx6gt04 never said overboring was good, it's the exact opposite and that overboring is risky risky buisness and guarantess you a hotter running engine and less strength for added boost, detonation, etc.

"Chrispd100" has had 2 (.020")overbored running KL's back to back, 1st one was a stock rebuild in a automatic and on this one the motor got to temps super quick when compared to others and then the fan mostly always stayed on.
His 2nd one now with a added turbo is just about as bad though it has a mtx which helps run cooler, still though, it's never never preffered.

[mx6gt04]

^ this guy would know.

[KLZEEscortGT]

Mx6gt04 never said overboring was good, it's the exact opposite and that overboring is risky risky buisness and guarantess you a hotter running engine and less strength for added boost, detonation, etc.

"Chrispd100" has had 2 (.020")overbored running KL's back to back, 1st one was a stock rebuild in a automatic and on this one the motor got to temps super quick when compared to others and then the fan mostly always stayed on.
His 2nd one now with a added turbo is just about as bad though it has a mtx which helps run cooler, still though, it's never never preffered.[/QUOTE]

And after learning this info I will NOT be boring my block out at all, I will be sticking with a stock bore and notching the bottom of the cylinders to clear the rods and putting low comp slugs in the stock holes

---------- Post added at 07:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:57 AM ----------

[QUOTE=mac1;1924145591]Yeah, that's why he "USED" to have them. Dont overbore anything.[COLOR="Silver"]
well he "said" he had the swap in 2 different cars and wrote both of em off. But who actually knows as to why he parted the car out. It truly wouldn't surprise me if he just didn't know and just gave up and could not be bothered with it anymore.
---------- Post added at 08:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 AM ---------- SORRY for the mess up in the post......Still learing lol

[KLZEEscortGT]

^ this guy would know.

AGREED 110%