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A-Team If you have an ATX, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire the A-Team.

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Old August 4th, 2011, 08:56 AM   #126
fordprobegt67
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ok i had some issues doing the Swap on the 2.0 the link to the mx6 one was broken so i will post it here that way we have it for future refrence and dont have to go searching other sites
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Old August 4th, 2011, 09:00 AM   #127
fordprobegt67
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ATX to MTX swap by MX6phan

93-95 2.0 probe 626 MX-6 Trany Swap
(96 and 97 are similar besides being obdII)

First off I pulled the whole motor and trust me it makes things a lot easier. It ends up being actually quicker if you ask me. Plus makes anything else you plan on doing easier. Two big things to remember is to label everything from wires to vacuum and fuel lines and be sure to be ready for that stubborn ass axle lock nut. I used a torch after destroying three ratchets and a cheater bar. It took approximately 2 hours to pull the motor and trany out (with quit a few smoke breaks). It may take more or less time depending on experience.

-Parts Needed-
Trany
Intermediate shaft
Left axle (I didn’t have a chance to see if they were the same between atx and mtx since I torched out the old one and discarded it.)
Upper Trany mount
Brake fluid reservoir off a base or GT
Clutch pedal off a base or GT
Clutch lines off a base or GT (GT lines had to be “convinced” to fit)
Slave cylinder
Flywheel
Clutch kit
Lower isolator bushing (ATX one can be made to fit with some customizing)
Shifter and linkage off base or GT (GT will work but hit the counsel a bit in all forward gears) Also no need to get a different starter either. They are the same on the 2.0 anyways.
The right axle is the same on mtx and atx besides the fact that the atx one is beefier. Odd huh. The rear and front trany mounts are the same between atx and mtx, base or GT. And there is NO NEED to swap any wiring harnesses to get everything to work properly.

Ok, first relieve the fuel line. To do this pull the fuse/relay for the pump, then start and run the car till it dies. Then drain the oil, trany fluid, and anti-freeze. You can drain the fluid on a 4eat (Two pans) by just pulling the drain plug. Now go ahead and remove the air intake, battery, and radiator. Next, disconnect the sway bar and the lower ball joint pinch bolt. Use a pickle fork to get the ball joint loose. Disconnect the tie rod end and use the pickle fork there too. Or use a hammer and rap the knuckle right next too it. DO NOT JUST BEAT ON THE TIE ROD WITH A HAMMER TILL IT POPS OUT. (Though it does work) Next remove the half shaft lock nut. Then take a pry bar and put it between the trany and half shaft and pry it out gently. On the right side, pry between the half shaft and intermediate shaft to separate them. Be sure to put in a holding tool to stop the trany gears from becoming misaligned when you pull the shafts. You can also cheat and use a short piece of heater hose that fits tight.

Just go ahead and label all the lines and wires and start disconnecting. There really isn’t that many at all. Disconnect the throttle cable, heater core lines, shift cable, brake booster vacuum line and the ground strap that’s on the right upper motor mount. Disconnect the ac without opening the lines. All I did was unbolted it from the block and let it hang there. Unhook the p/s lines.

Now since the exhaust is a pain to unbolt due to the rust just unbolt the header/ manifold and then unbolt the two bolts that attach the exhaust to the lower front of the block. The exhaust and header should drop out of the way enough to get the motor by. Be sure to disconnect the O2 and EGR line that screws into it.

Hook up a cherry picker to the engine and put just a bit of tension on it. Remove the two nuts holding the front mount to the cross member and the bottom isolator. Then remove the three bolts from the lower rear trany mount. (They are easier to get to if you remove the two cross members first) Then remove the through bolt for the upper left trany mount, and totally remove the mount from the car itself. (Makes more room for the engine and trany to come out.) Now pull the last mount on the right side.

The motor should come out very smoothly. Just pay attention to see if everything is unhooked. All that’s left is to pull the starter and remove the torque converter nuts. There is a nifty little piece that pops off near the starter opening to gain access to the TC nuts. (There is four of them) Pull the bell housing bolts and gently pull the trany away from the engine. It weighs a bit so be ready.

While you have the motor out is a good time to replace the oil (if you have a weak one) and water pumps along with the timing belt and tensioner. This is also a good time to clean and repaint the nasty engine bay. I took advantage of the engine being out and removed my rack and pinion and overhauled it. I also removed some excess weight by getting rid of all the crash sensors since I no longer had an airbag anyway.

Another thing I did that was well worth the few bucks was did that homemade motor mount. A little window urethane and then you have a stiffer mount and better shifts. (I did this to the lower rear trany mount)

The clutch pedal is fairly easy to put in long as you remove the steering coulum like I did. The brake pedal doesn’t have to be replace if you don’t have it or want to, just cut it down to size. You will see where the clutch bolts if you look just below the wiper motor. There will be a egg shaped plate. Now under the dash in that area the plate is held in by two yellow plastic nuts. After you take those off the plate will pop off. That is where the clutch assembly and lines get bolted to. I also recommend replacing the rubber part of the clutch line with a stainless steel one from Corksport.

To be sure the car is gonna start and the reverse lights work do the following. Take the plug in that was plugged into the neutral safety switch (9 wires, 2 10-12 gauge and 7 14-16 gauge wires) Now snip the entire plug in off. Strip the two larger wires and tie them together. That will allow you to be able to start the car. Next, strip the black and yellow wires and the red and yellow wires. These will get hooked up to the reverse switch on the front lower part of the MTX. (two green wires) It doesn’t matter how they are hooked up. If you did everything right the car should start and the reverse lights will work.

As for the cruise control cut off switch located on the brake pedal bracket. If you leave it then it just means that the only way the cruise disengages is when you press the brake. If you want it to also disengage with the clutch pedal then just go get another switch like the one on the brake pedal. You may get it with the clutch pedal you get. Then just add jumper wires to the switch on the brake pedal. Then it will disengage either way.

After installing the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate bolt up the MTX. Its actually pretty light compared to the atx. Be sure to put the starter back on to before the motor and trany go back in. It’s a bit easier.

After doing whatever to the motor and trany (parts, paint, and etc) install is all pretty much reverse of removal.
Be sure to put on new cir-clips on the axles. Little metal c-shaped things located near the trany end of the axle. Grease the trany end of the axles good before install. The left axle may need a light tap from a rubber mallet to go in.

Also be sure not to miss a ground. There is one on the right upper motor mount that bolts near the strut tower. Then also the one that used to be bolted on the top of the trany. (it has 5 or 6 wires going to it). Just bolt this one back to the top of the MTX or where ever it will receive a good ground.
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old August 4th, 2011, 09:01 AM   #128
fordprobegt67
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Fill fluids. The radiator holds a dash under 8 quarts. Be sure to add a little water pump lube in also if you installed a new pump. Trany fluid. I recommend redline, either way it has to be gl-4 or gl-5. Change oil. Also fill the brake fluid reservoir. Bleeding the brakes and clutch slave cylinder is easy with the vacuum type bleeders, if not, get a buddy and do the good old pump pump hold method. After this is done you can adjust the clutch pedal. I also suggest testing the brakes somewhere safe before hitting the highways.

I hope this will help any of you wanting or in the proccess of doing the swap.
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old August 15th, 2011, 09:10 AM   #129
Crazed
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Any idea why my fuel pump won't kick on after the swap?
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Old August 15th, 2011, 05:56 PM   #130
fordprobegt67
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yes
go to the trunk and press your Fuel button Reset... it is on the driver side panel...
red button should be down... i got rid of that issue a big pot hole or something would pop it so i cut it and wired the wires together... and after i did my swap i had same issue the fuel button needed pushed down
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old August 15th, 2011, 07:38 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordprobegt67 View Post
yes
go to the trunk and press your Fuel button Reset... it is on the driver side panel...
red button should be down... i got rid of that issue a big pot hole or something would pop it so i cut it and wired the wires together... and after i did my swap i had same issue the fuel button needed pushed down
Its down and the fuel cutout light is on.

EDIT:
Background - I have a 94 SE with an auto to manual swap. It's in the finishing stages, everything is in and as it should be, but I can't get the fuel pump to go on. If i pour gas in the intake it'll fire as it should. I tried to jump it in the diagnostic box and the horn went off. Where is the relay for the pump? The car has been in the works for a year with the same gas in it, but i banged on the tank to get it unstuck and to no avail the pump has not worked. Any suggestions would be awesome. I need this car to run to get the kiddo back and forth and to go to work. I switched the inertia switch also.

Last edited by Crazed; August 17th, 2011 at 04:08 PM.
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Old August 18th, 2011, 02:33 PM   #132
daygobaker
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Do I need a MTX ecu for the car to run properly in a OBD II car? I just did a ATX->MTX swap and I get fuel cuts around 2-2.5 k...Car was running fine before swap...
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Old October 13th, 2011, 12:48 PM   #133
wraithkl626
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I really need help. Which parts from I4 cars will work in a V6 mtx swap? I know that the transmission itself is different, but is there anything that will cross over? There are very few mtx V6s in my area, but mtx I4s are more common and usually almost complete.
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Old February 26th, 2012, 09:26 AM   #134
wizbummer
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Halfway done with my swap (93 PGT), also swapping ECU and wiring harness. Couple of things I wanted to add:

Don't have to drain the trans, or slide the thing off the torque converter. The access plate at the bottom (3 14mm bolts) exposes the converter/flex plate bolts. Use a 14mm open end (preferrably a ratchet wrench) to remove the 4 bolts, having someone turn over and hold the crank (21mm socket and a breaker bar). This way you can remove the converter and trans together, alot easier and cleaner.

Also, if your motor mount (the big one on the passenger side, the only mount actually attached to the motor) is in good shape, it'll hold the whole motor no problem. If there's any damage to it you definately want to support it, but leaving it unsupported will let that trans drop out way easier.

*EDIT* Actually, when I did it, it was resting on the exhaust, held by a hanger. Still held fine, but aside from getting the trans out I recommend supporting it,

Speaking of mounts, there's certain times/points where raising or lowering the trans makes getting to/removing things easier, so don't be shy to use that jack!

Last edited by wizbummer; February 28th, 2012 at 07:21 AM.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 05:19 PM   #135
fordprobegt67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daygobaker View Post
Do I need a MTX ecu for the car to run properly in a OBD II car? I just did a ATX->MTX swap and I get fuel cuts around 2-2.5 k...Car was running fine before swap...
i have the same issue i swapped ECU's but im not sure if it was from a OBDII or not i might have to find out ... but i would like to figure that out before i swap to the V6 which is in a week or less now

---------- Post added at 08:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:19 PM ----------

what ECU numbers are for the OBDII and OBDI
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 06:25 PM   #136
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you cannot swap obd1 and obd2 ecus with out swapping harnesses or getting an jumper harness the connectors are totaly differant
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Old March 24th, 2012, 08:30 AM   #137
fordprobegt67
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ok yea so i dont know why the fuel would cut out then i have to barely hold the gas down and it willl run past 3 k but im tired of messing with the FS im moving on to the KL
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old April 9th, 2012, 12:10 AM   #138
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Have to disagree on must be 93-97 as I have just completed MTX conversion using a November 91 tagged MX-6 as a donor car and the results are outstanding awsome close ratio's and the only thing I had to modify was the brake pedal, it needed a stop added to it.
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Old November 13th, 2012, 10:14 AM   #139
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Funny, I needed to make a stop on my pedal assembly too and it was pulled from an mx-6. The stoplight switch was different but the pedal assembly accepted the one from the ATX probe no problem, I just had to make a stop out of silicone to get it to work right.
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Old June 13th, 2013, 05:37 AM   #140
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how long does it normally take to install this tranny thanks in advance
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Old June 13th, 2013, 02:33 PM   #141
fordprobegt67
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Originally Posted by Sprocket3 View Post
Have to disagree on must be 93-97 as I have just completed MTX conversion using a November 91 tagged MX-6 as a donor car and the results are outstanding awsome close ratio's and the only thing I had to modify was the brake pedal, it needed a stop added to it.
yours might be different seeing how your not from the us but im not sure
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95 PSE swapped in 93 KL...Headers.... K&N cold Air.... Gutted Caged and ready for Dirt
91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old October 14th, 2013, 09:49 PM   #142
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Nice info. So there is no need to swap the ecu's out?
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Old October 15th, 2013, 04:15 PM   #143
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not really no it will run fine without swapping the ECU but the OD light will be on for sure.
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91 F150 Leaking oil Rusted up Still Drives Great!
01 Seabring Convert 01 Neon Rims With Spacers..
99 Olds Cutlas DD
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Old March 10th, 2014, 06:34 PM   #144
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97 GTS MTX swap

I've been wanting to swap my trans for a while now and discovered a guy on Craigs list who had a complete setup (engine, trans, computer, & all associated components) to do the conversion. Figured on rebuilding the engine and swapping the whole works at once. He declared it to be a 97 but once I got it home where I could access the internet and look up the numbers I discovered it was a 94.
So now I guess I need to find a KLG2 computer as the KL07 and KL48B he gave me wont work in my obdII probe.
What I'm wondering is if there's any way to pull this off with my existing automatic ecu?
I can deal with the neutral safety switch, backup lights, etc.. but I'm afraid it will throw a code since the ecu monitors the automatic transmission. It will not pass inspection if the CEL is lit.
Has anybody successfully done this? I know I can buy a KLG2 on eBay for another $175 but I've already sunk way more money into this car than it's worth and I'd like to stop the bleeding.
Thanks........
.............David
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Old March 10th, 2014, 07:38 PM   #145
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I'm running the auto ecu in my car and it's throwing 8 codes, four related to the engine and 4 related to the missing automatic transmission sensors. Before the swap there wasn't a single code. I'm going to invest in an mtx ecu as soon as I can get my car out of storage
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Old March 11th, 2014, 02:53 AM   #146
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I'm running the auto ecu in my car and it's throwing 8 codes, four related to the engine and 4 related to the missing automatic transmission sensors. Before the swap there wasn't a single code. I'm going to invest in an mtx ecu as soon as I can get my car out of storage
Thanks for the reply! That's exactly what I was afraid of.
Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the right ECU..

Thanks.........
.................David
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Old March 11th, 2014, 08:32 AM   #147
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Thanks for the reply! That's exactly what I was afraid of.
Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the right ECU..

Thanks.........
.................David

That sucks, I just remembered that with my 94, the ATX ECU is separate. With the ODBII having everything integrated, make sense to swap the ecu for a mtx
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Old September 7th, 2014, 12:05 PM   #148
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Will the xtremethings ecu work for this swap?
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