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problem with toe-in after new lateral arms

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  • problem with toe-in after new lateral arms

    I just got back from trying to get a wheel alignment on my PGT, i replaced both the forward and rear lateral arms on the rear of the car and now it appears my tow in is >1" and cant be reduced any further.

    Are there different lengths of lateral arms? These were purchased from rock auto. Also are there aftermarket adjustable ones available i can use to set the correct toe in? Cheers.
    Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
    Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
    Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

  • #2
    Did you compare the lengths of the old arms to the new ones. Seems like the aftermarket has again messed up a part.
    94 PGT -T, Used to be quick

    94 Black PGT, KLZE, spun bearing, Likely parts car for life

    Comment


    • #3
      No i dont recall comparing and ive already ditched the old ones (silly i know). Ill take measurements today to find out which is wrong.
      Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
      Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
      Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

      Comment


      • #4
        I only managed to measure the rear rear lateral arm and it is roughly 580mm (22.8") i say roughly because it has been fitted to the car and the bushes have been pulled in to one side making the measurement larger on one side and shorter on the other. I will pull the forward rear lateral arms off tomorrow to measure them.
        Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
        Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
        Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

        Comment


        • #5
          We know you purchased these from Rock Auto, but could tell us who the manufacturer is? Maybe that information could go into the Probe 'THINK TANK' for future reference and save us from further headaches.

          Does anyone have the OE dimension that we could use for a comparison?

          Comment


          • #6
            a - it's "toe". as in, "toe in" or "toe out". given that you're talking about "reducing" it, i'm assuming you've currently got much excessive toe out.

            b - it's not possible to put the forward arms in the rear and vice versa, is it? the forward arms should be round steel and the rear arms should be stamped flat stock that has a "U" shaped cross section.

            the rear suspension uses eccentric nuts on the inboard end of the rear arms to adjust toe ... but they don't have anywhere near an 1" worth of adjustment.


            a straight forward fix to this would be to go to the junkyard, find a metric GM and steal the tie rods from it's front end. section the round stock forward arms you have and weld the GM tie rod adjustment into the middle.

            obviously, you'll need to shorten the Probe arms you do have enough to account for both your excess toe and the length of the tie rod that you're adding to it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by bob k. mando View Post
              a - it's "toe". as in, "toe in" or "toe out". given that you're talking about "reducing" it, i'm assuming you've currently got much excessive toe out.

              b - it's not possible to put the forward arms in the rear and vice versa, is it? the forward arms should be round steel and the rear arms should be stamped flat stock that has a "U" shaped cross section.

              the rear suspension uses eccentric nuts on the inboard end of the rear arms to adjust toe ... but they don't have anywhere near an 1" worth of adjustment.


              a straight forward fix to this would be to go to the junkyard, find a metric GM and steal the tie rods from it's front end. section the round stock forward arms you have and weld the GM tie rod adjustment into the middle.

              obviously, you'll need to shorten the Probe arms you do have enough to account for both your excess toe and the length of the tie rod that you're adding to it.
              a. I know it's "Toe" that was a typo, sorry. My issue is too much Toe-In.
              b. No the rear lateral arm goes to the sway bar, pretty sure you cant stuff it up
              c. I have ordered aftermarket adjustable forward rear lateral arms now.

              Originally posted by RACERSNUT View Post
              We know you purchased these from Rock Auto, but could tell us who the manufacturer is? Maybe that information could go into the Probe 'THINK TANK' for future reference and save us from further headaches.

              Does anyone have the OE dimension that we could use for a comparison?
              rear:
              BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1017035 {GA2A28600A, GC5J28600} Rear Right
              BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1017036 {GA2A2860XA, GC5J2860X} Rear Left

              front:
              BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1017037 {GA2A28620, GA2A2862X, GC2A28620}
              Last edited by stoker100; October 26, 2014, 11:35 PM.
              Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
              Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
              Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

              Comment


              • #8
                Just wanted to pop back in and update this thread, i pulled the subframe down and took rough measurements and both sides measured up equal lengths so im not sure what was going on causing such a toe-in issue at the rear. I have resolved the problem with "MEGAN RACING REAR FRONT LINKS CONTROL ARMS KIT 98-04 MAZDA PROTEGE PROTEGE5 ALL" as can be seen in the pic below.

                http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...pslvnxhe5k.jpg

                this required minimal modification, including washers for the inner and cutting down the outers to match the original width of the factory arms (so the long bolt holding both arms to the hub would still have enough meat on it to screw in).
                Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
                Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
                Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

                Comment


                • #9
                  That will fix it...
                  be sure to inspect those parts often...
                  I've had personal experience with parts failure http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=jq4x9v&s=4#.VFq6X2ddVU8
                  if it wasn't for the guard rail on a the bridge, the gf may have never become my wife.
                  94 PGT -T, Used to be quick

                  94 Black PGT, KLZE, spun bearing, Likely parts car for life

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for sharing! I think i wont have the rust issues most others contend with but i will keep an eye on them regardless.
                    Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
                    Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
                    Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      coat the suspension parts in waste engine oil. it won't completely stop the rust in an area where you deal with road salt but it sure will slow it down.

                      and waste engine oil is free.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        yeah it wasnt a rust issue. it broken at the weld
                        94 PGT -T, Used to be quick

                        94 Black PGT, KLZE, spun bearing, Likely parts car for life

                        Comment

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