I are bored. My ever changing mods...

[WhiteDart]

Well, apparently those supposed 310cc 929 injectors are not what they seem. Pulled them from a '93 929. Swapped in and adjusted injector size accordingly in the software. Ran hella lean. Returned required fuel back to 280. Still pretty lean. Put the S injectors back in. Runs perfect. So I came to the conclusion that S > 929.

[grimjoker95gt]

i thought different years of the 929 green injectors had different flow fates

[WhiteDart]

From what I could find, the later years were supposedly the ones to get. I will probably wind up building some kind of rail and adapt top feed injectors with a similar impedance to stock. They are soooo much more plentiful.

[probe-gt]

https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/...21698069_o.jpg

why does your front valve cover look different than mine? did you cut it or something? I've looked over a thousand times at mine and yours looks different over by the camshaft I think.

[WhiteDart]

Timing belt cover portions were chopped off. Its also a late model Millenia cover.

[grimjoker95gt]

if you would have said something i would have sold you my fuel
set up

[WhiteDart]

So I guess I should post a little update since its been quite a while. Havent driven the car much since the shift shaft seal leak has gotten considerably worse. The inevitable thing that I have been putting off is having to pull the motor. I can no longer pull the trans with the motor still in the car because the rear turbo block ONE trans bolt from being removed, and of course the rear turbo cant be removed without pulling the motor out. Poop. Thing that sucks is I replaced all the seals besides that one which of course I cant replace without tearing down the trans.
The only other issue to speak of is an old problem that crops up during very cold weather. It involves the thermostat not opening due to the coolant being so low of a temp in the radiator before it hits the thermostat. My solution will be to either drill a bunch of bypass holes in the thermostat to force coolant flow, or, get an aftermarket inline thermostat housing and locate it in the upper coolant hose.
Other than that, the car still runs great. Currently on 7.5psi and is uber smooth all the way through the rpm range. Planning on eventually getting a TiAl Q 50mm bov for an even better sound track to go with the screaming twins.

[zerialz]

Wow double postage victim!! Maybe this should be considered a symbol or a trophy or something..

[stoker100]

in regard to the thermostat issue one small hole should allow for enough flow to solve your issue. (small being 1.5mm roughly)

[WhiteDart]

Im not sure a small hole it would completely solve the problem though. Sub freezing air hits the radiator and cools the coolant down before it hits the thermostat, which keeps it shut. It has nearly overheated on my several times and the only way to get it to stop is to shut the car off and let the thermostat heat soak for 20 or 30 minutes until it opens. Then it will run fine for a while until the radiator over cools and closes the thermostat again.
My only fear with relocating the thermostat is that it may reduce system pressure because the thermostat will be creating pressure just in the block and heads, and pressure will be reduced across the radiator.

[Ghostcloak]

Im not sure a small hole it would completely solve the problem though. Sub freezing air hits the radiator and cools the coolant down before it hits the thermostat, which keeps it shut. It has nearly overheated on my several times and the only way to get it to stop is to shut the car off and let the thermostat heat soak for 20 or 30 minutes until it opens. Then it will run fine for a while until the radiator over cools and closes the thermostat again.
My only fear with relocating the thermostat is that it may reduce system pressure because the thermostat will be creating pressure just in the block and heads, and pressure will be reduced across the radiator.

During my first winter with my MX6, I experienced a LOT of issues with my thermostat sticking, nearly overheating before finally opening. I replaced my thermostat with an OEM one (previous owner had recently replaced it with an aftermaket universal one that didn't have the hole). I've got pictures comparing the two. After sticking with an OEM thermostat, I've never had issues. It's worth a shot replacing the thermostat for $15 and 30 minutes of your time before you go doing all kinds of crazy mods. Least it'll be good piece of mind...

[WhiteDart]

Im on my 3rd OEM one in about 2 years. lol. Im big into OEM parts whenever possible.

[Ghostcloak]

:'( Hope you resolve this issue!

[1990GTturbo]

On the rare occasion that my uncle has to drive his F-350 diesel in the winter he puts a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator between it and the core support. It limits the amount of cold air that can hit the radiator/intercooler and helps hold a little more heat in the coolant. Truckers have the canvas over the nose of the trucks for the same reason in the winter time. Its worth a shot to give it a try.

[WhiteDart]

Well after thinking on it hard I suddenly had a epiphany. Remember when I had swapped in the FS trans internals? Yeah, I also swapped in the 2 piece shift shaft which allowed me to replace the shift shaft seal without tearing apart the transmission. XD Only took 20 minutes to replace it. I also drilled two 3/32 holes in the thermostat to keep some coolant flowing to get the thermostat to kick open. Seems to work so far.
I really need to get the rear aligned again after replacing the rear lateral arm when the sway bar ripped out on the dragon last year. Also need to find somewhere to put my larger coolant reserve jug. Then its good to go for some summer fun.