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Tried to adjust TPS and shorted fuses?!?!?

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  • Tried to adjust TPS and shorted fuses?!?!?

    Ok, i wanted to re-adjust my tps. I couldn't get anything to work right, I wasnt able to get any kind of voltage reading except a common .15 (wtf!).

    I had the tps connector off and was plugging the positive multimeter into each lead so that I could get some sort of voltage. Nothing, so I switched the multimeter (Haoyue DT830B) positive connection from "V something m A" (the 'something is a sigma or a delta or the like), to a 10ADC output.
    Upon switching to that output I tested each lead again, and when I got to the top lead which is green, i heard a couple clicking noises and what sounded like the fpr moving fuel very rapidly. I wanted to know what this was and tried it a couple times, each with the same whoosh of fuel noise and the clicking/popping noise.
    Now the car turns and turns and won't turn over! I checked the fuse box where the popping was coming from and it looks like fuses are blown on the 30A fuses and the 60A's. I can't really decipher if they are blown. I switched some around that looked good but to no avail; no full start.

    I hope someone can help, I should be at work in half an hour but I can't if my car won't start.
    1995 Mx6 LS

  • #2
    The "something" is most likely an Omega, for ohms (resistance).
    When you went to the 10A plug, you put a dead short on the line you were measuring. Unfortunately, the voltage source for the TPS is the reference voltage developed by the PCM. You can check the F/P INJ (30A) fuse in the Main Fuse Panel (under the hood), and the ENGINE (15A) and ROOM (15A) fuses in the Interior Fuse Panel.
    Once you replace all the bad fuses, if the car still won't start, you may have damaged the PCM.
    KevinD
    1995 Sapphire Blue Mustang GT Convertible, 2006 Storm Red Metallic Mercedes-Benz CLK 350 Cabriolet, 2006 Dark Shadow Gray Ford F250 V10 Supercab 4x4, 2004 Perlite Gray Metallic Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic, 2002 Burgundy Pearl Suzuki XL-7 Touring, 1971 Spring Green Jeep J4000 Gladiator, 1966 Signal Flare Red Ford Fairlane, to name a few...

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    • #3
      I replaced a couple 30A fuses and a 40A that looked like they were blown, that equalled no start.
      I cannot pull codes for some reason, the cel won't even light at any point during the key turning routine.

      Im checking the fuel relay and fuse. brb.
      1995 Mx6 LS

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      • #4
        Ok. The NF02 fuel pump relay checked out to be fine just by looking at it without the cover on.
        The 30A fuel pump fuse looked fine also.
        Main 100A is fine as well.

        I was trying the ten/grnd and the fans won't even kick on.
        I think the ecu/pcm is screwed. How do I replace it?
        1995 Mx6 LS

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        • #5
          After some "careful" prying on the 100A fuse, i happen to shatter it into a million pieces and now need a new one, still cannot get the whole fuse out though. It kinda looks discolored but I am not sure if its blown. This blows, I now have a nasty slit on my pointer finger @$#%$%@$!!
          1995 Mx6 LS

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          • #6
            The 100A fuse is bolted in. See the 10mm bolts near it, on the lower portion of the fuse panel? The 100A fuse has long "legs" with holes through them, and the bolts go through the holes.
            The IGN MAIN relay needs tested, also.
            The PCM is on the floor in the center console (under the radio). After you've replaced the bad fuses, and checked the relays, you can measure the voltages at the PCM connectors, see here for the PCM connector pinouts. If the +12V is getting to the PCM, then the PCM is probably bad.
            KevinD
            1995 Sapphire Blue Mustang GT Convertible, 2006 Storm Red Metallic Mercedes-Benz CLK 350 Cabriolet, 2006 Dark Shadow Gray Ford F250 V10 Supercab 4x4, 2004 Perlite Gray Metallic Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic, 2002 Burgundy Pearl Suzuki XL-7 Touring, 1971 Spring Green Jeep J4000 Gladiator, 1966 Signal Flare Red Ford Fairlane, to name a few...

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            • #7
              100A is replaced, no start once more.
              I will check the pcm stuff now.
              btw i have a 95 mtx
              Thanks for the help thus far Kevin.
              Hopefully I will be able to fix this by the end of the day.
              1995 Mx6 LS

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              • #8
                If the +12V is getting to the PCM
                I am not too sure at what this means. Are you saying that a positive amount of voltage (12) may have been introduced to the pcm, and with that occurring causes the pcm to be destroyed?

                I am going to take the console apart first, and then will study stuff some more. I still am not sure how to measure the voltage at the pcm connectors?
                1995 Mx6 LS

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                • #9
                  fp to ground showed that the fuel pump is in working order.

                  I just need to know if the disty has a bad sensor in it that doesnt allow the fuel pump to turn on when the key is turned to 'on'. And I need to check the pcm voltage, which I am not sure how to do as of yet.
                  1995 Mx6 LS

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by L-ucky-S-ix
                    fp to ground showed that the fuel pump is in working order.

                    I just need to know if the disty has a bad sensor in it that doesnt allow the fuel pump to turn on when the key is turned to 'on'. And I need to check the pcm voltage, which I am not sure how to do as of yet.
                    Using this pinout listing:

                    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
                    12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

                    1) Module ground
                    2) Reduce Torque Signal 1 input (ATX)
                    3) Brakelamp load input (ATX)
                    4) A/C dash switch [on/off] and Low Pressure input
                    5) VSS input (Vehicle Speed Sensor [+])
                    6) Torque reduced signal output
                    7) TEN DLC pin (Test ENgine Data Link Connector) (ATX)
                    8) Ignitor output (aka Distributor Ignition)
                    9) Check Engine Lamp (CEL) Output
                    10) START signal input
                    11) Memory Backup Power/Keep Alive Power
                    12) Torque Reduce Signal 2 Input (ATX)
                    13) Idle switch input (closed Throttle input)
                    14) Neut./Clutch switch input
                    15) Blower load (motor on) input
                    16) Power Steering Pressure input
                    17) A/C & low condenser fan [95 A/C relay Output ?same]
                    18) Rear Window Defrost Load input
                    19) Headlamp load input
                    20) FEN DLC pin (Data Link Connector)
                    21) MEN DLC pin (Data Link Connector)
                    22) Main PCM Power

                    Locate Pin #22. It should be the harness furthest to the right when it is plugged in the ECU. The wire you are looking for is the wire furthest to the right on the bottom row. Unplug the harness and look at the female side of it. The hole you are looking for is the hole furthest to the left on the bottom row.

                    The hole will be too small to stick the multimeter probe into it. Place a straight pin into the hole. *** do not allow it to ground itself ***

                    Set your multimeter to voltage DC

                    Turn car to the "on" postion

                    Touch the black probe to any ground (e.g. a nearby bolt head)

                    Touch the red probe to the pin that is sticking out of position #22.

                    It should read 12V or whatever the battery is reading since this is your PCM's 12V power supply to power it up.

                    In case you didn't know, the ECU is located in the center console below the HVAC/radio/etc nearly on the floor mounted on a bracket. It should have a crap load of wires going into it. You can't miss it,.
                    Last edited by Omaha95PGT; July 2, 2004, 05:34 AM.
                    Marc M.
                    Black '95 PGT with mods 177.4 whp/159.6 wtq (probably way less now as the car has been partially de-modded)
                    2000 BMW M-Roadster

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by L-ucky-S-ix
                      fp to ground showed that the fuel pump is in working order.
                      This shows that both the PCM power relay (IGN MAIN) & the Fuel Pump relay are working.
                      Originally posted by L-ucky-S-ix
                      I just need to know if the disty has a bad sensor in it that doesnt allow the fuel pump to turn on when the key is turned to 'on'. And I need to check the pcm voltage, which I am not sure how to do as of yet.
                      The fuel pump doesn't normally run until the motor is spinning. That's the way it's designed.
                      Ohama95PGT's post gives very good instructions on testing the PCM voltage. As I mentioned, if the +12V is there on the PCM connector, then the PCM is probably bad.
                      At this point I'd say it doesn't look good for the PCM, but you need to test for +12V.
                      KevinD
                      1995 Sapphire Blue Mustang GT Convertible, 2006 Storm Red Metallic Mercedes-Benz CLK 350 Cabriolet, 2006 Dark Shadow Gray Ford F250 V10 Supercab 4x4, 2004 Perlite Gray Metallic Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic, 2002 Burgundy Pearl Suzuki XL-7 Touring, 1971 Spring Green Jeep J4000 Gladiator, 1966 Signal Flare Red Ford Fairlane, to name a few...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        For future TPS voltage testing purposes, do not unplug the TPS harness from the TPS. You have to test the voltage while the TPS is on the car, with the harness plugged in and the ignition in the "on" postion.

                        You will need to probe thru the wire's insulation to get a reading. A straight pin or a line spliceer (like the one you use for the fog light mod) works well.
                        Marc M.
                        Black '95 PGT with mods 177.4 whp/159.6 wtq (probably way less now as the car has been partially de-modded)
                        2000 BMW M-Roadster

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                        • #13
                          Yeah, I was screwin around too much because for some reason the wires werent giving a voltage reading, even as I had protruded through the wire.

                          I will test and then return with the results.
                          1995 Mx6 LS

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                          • #14
                            12.26 volts are showing at the number 22 pin.
                            1995 Mx6 LS

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                            • #15
                              Check the voltage at Pin 11, also.
                              With all the connectors plugged in, try measuring Pin 5 and Pin 4 on connector 247 (the middle one, see the link above) with the Key On. Anything there?
                              KevinD
                              1995 Sapphire Blue Mustang GT Convertible, 2006 Storm Red Metallic Mercedes-Benz CLK 350 Cabriolet, 2006 Dark Shadow Gray Ford F250 V10 Supercab 4x4, 2004 Perlite Gray Metallic Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic, 2002 Burgundy Pearl Suzuki XL-7 Touring, 1971 Spring Green Jeep J4000 Gladiator, 1966 Signal Flare Red Ford Fairlane, to name a few...

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