Painting and Shaving front bumper

Dysfunction · May 24th, 2005, 01:00 AM

I have a few question that i couldn't really find the answer to. I'm in the process of getting my Hood and Front bumper ready for paint, again... I have the hood all the way down to metal and ready to be primed, but the front bumper i'm not sure what to do. I'm reshaving the front emblem as well as the license plate holes and i'm not sure how to go about doing it. Is it absolutly necessary to take the bumper off? I've done it multiple times before but i'm working on the motor mounts at the moment too so the car is kind of jacked already and i don't really want to go about removing more stuff.

The first time i shaved the emblem with Bondo, hit a pole and cracked it all to hell. I'm going to use that 3m "Problem plastic repair" that someone mention in the how to. Now my main question is do i have to fiberglass the back of the bumper to give it a good backing to latch on too? Or will it hold with out it?

Now my painting question is......Should i just repaint the entire front bumper, or just have the places that i sand down repainted? And if i repaint the entire thing how much do i have to sand it down?

Picture of the messed up front are on my car domain site, not sure what page. Thanks for any help.

93SE20DOHC · May 24th, 2005, 01:32 AM

No, you really do not have to remove the front bumper. When you sand, go ahead and scuff up the whole bumper to include repair areas, for new surface contact. Use a medium to light grit though, and heavy grit will cause burring in the plastic, which you then have to repair with a filler.

As for the products to use, I understand the bondo issue, I am not a fan of it either, so go with glass, especially on plastics. There isnt really much flexing that happens, but it adhears better ans offers flex. A Marglass fiberglass filler is sufficient, then use a glaze to film a perfect surface.

If you want to see the results, click my sig, I just installed a urethane body kit, and wanted it seamless, and used marglass. Not to mention, I had alot of dings, gouges, rips, and holes in the front bumper to get rid of. Go ahead and reprime the whole bumper, the factory paint peal is a problem, so new paint will assist the prob!

probesport_gt · May 24th, 2005, 06:19 AM

The emblem filling needs no backing. Its already there. As for the plate holes, look in the Appearance Forum FAQ and look at my post with step by step instructions and pics on how to shave the plate holes. Just use that 3M product instead.

For painting, respray the entire thing. You would have to be an amazing painter to blend all that back in for it not to be noticeable.

Later
Wes

Dysfunction · May 24th, 2005, 09:10 PM

Awsome thanks for the replies. One question about the glass.

Marglass...is that the resin that needs the fiberglass clothe? Or is it a Bondo like substance?

Oh, i did already read the writeup on filling the liscence plate holes, good job btw..I think i might be able to get by without removing it. I filled the rear holes with no backing, so i hope i can get by with this one too.

Thanks again for clearing up the painting issues, it's hopefully getting primed on Thursday.

93SE20DOHC · May 25th, 2005, 02:57 AM

Marglass is fascinating stuff. No, you need no patches! it actually would remind you of bondo, in that you apply the same activator, but in that it has flexibility to it when cured! But adhears beautifully. It already has fiberglass mixed in with the resin, but by applying the activator, it start curing. Wonderfull stuff for long time durability, and flexiblity. You can use it for our bumpers with great results! My only additional note, is to sand it down, and when cured apply a glaze for perfection. Very very thin coat of glaze!

Dysfunction · May 25th, 2005, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93SE20DOHC

Marglass is fascinating stuff. No, you need no patches! it actually would remind you of bondo, in that you apply the same activator, but in that it has flexibility to it when cured! But adhears beautifully. It already has fiberglass mixed in with the resin, but by applying the activator, it start curing. Wonderfull stuff for long time durability, and flexiblity. You can use it for our bumpers with great results! My only additional note, is to sand it down, and when cured apply a glaze for perfection. Very very thin coat of glaze!

Awsome, i was going to start on it tonight but i'll wait until tomorrow so i can pick some of this stuff up. Thanks again.

May 24th, 2005, 01:00 AM	#1
Dysfunction PT Regular Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Richmond, Virginia Age: 24 Posts: 782	Painting and Shaving front bumper I have a few question that i couldn't really find the answer to. I'm in the process of getting my Hood and Front bumper ready for paint, again... I have the hood all the way down to metal and ready to be primed, but the front bumper i'm not sure what to do. I'm reshaving the front emblem as well as the license plate holes and i'm not sure how to go about doing it. Is it absolutly necessary to take the bumper off? I've done it multiple times before but i'm working on the motor mounts at the moment too so the car is kind of jacked already and i don't really want to go about removing more stuff. The first time i shaved the emblem with Bondo, hit a pole and cracked it all to hell. I'm going to use that 3m "Problem plastic repair" that someone mention in the how to. Now my main question is do i have to fiberglass the back of the bumper to give it a good backing to latch on too? Or will it hold with out it? Now my painting question is......Should i just repaint the entire front bumper, or just have the places that i sand down repainted? And if i repaint the entire thing how much do i have to sand it down? Picture of the messed up front are on my car domain site, not sure what page. Thanks for any help. __________________ 1994 Mustang GT

May 24th, 2005, 01:32 AM	#2
93SE20DOHC Turbo Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wyoming Age: 33 Posts: 1,554	No, you really do not have to remove the front bumper. When you sand, go ahead and scuff up the whole bumper to include repair areas, for new surface contact. Use a medium to light grit though, and heavy grit will cause burring in the plastic, which you then have to repair with a filler. As for the products to use, I understand the bondo issue, I am not a fan of it either, so go with glass, especially on plastics. There isnt really much flexing that happens, but it adhears better ans offers flex. A Marglass fiberglass filler is sufficient, then use a glaze to film a perfect surface. If you want to see the results, click my sig, I just installed a urethane body kit, and wanted it seamless, and used marglass. Not to mention, I had alot of dings, gouges, rips, and holes in the front bumper to get rid of. Go ahead and reprime the whole bumper, the factory paint peal is a problem, so new paint will assist the prob! __________________ Kris (93 SE) "One of Many Probes in Wyoming!" To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

May 24th, 2005, 06:19 AM	#3
probesport_gt POC Mod Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Christiansburg, VA Age: 30 Posts: 17,492	The emblem filling needs no backing. Its already there. As for the plate holes, look in the Appearance Forum FAQ and look at my post with step by step instructions and pics on how to shave the plate holes. Just use that 3M product instead. For painting, respray the entire thing. You would have to be an amazing painter to blend all that back in for it not to be noticeable. Later Wes __________________ -------------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------------- / 03' Dinan Cooper S / 04' Explorer XLT / 06' R6 ~Track / 93' Del Sol Si / *--------------------------------------------------------------------------* --------No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!------- -----------------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!-----------------

May 24th, 2005, 09:10 PM	#4
Dysfunction PT Regular Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Richmond, Virginia Age: 24 Posts: 782	Awsome thanks for the replies. One question about the glass. Marglass...is that the resin that needs the fiberglass clothe? Or is it a Bondo like substance? Oh, i did already read the writeup on filling the liscence plate holes, good job btw..I think i might be able to get by without removing it. I filled the rear holes with no backing, so i hope i can get by with this one too. Thanks again for clearing up the painting issues, it's hopefully getting primed on Thursday. __________________ 1994 Mustang GT Last edited by Dysfunction; May 24th, 2005 at 09:14 PM.

May 25th, 2005, 02:57 AM	#5
93SE20DOHC Turbo Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wyoming Age: 33 Posts: 1,554	Marglass is fascinating stuff. No, you need no patches! it actually would remind you of bondo, in that you apply the same activator, but in that it has flexibility to it when cured! But adhears beautifully. It already has fiberglass mixed in with the resin, but by applying the activator, it start curing. Wonderfull stuff for long time durability, and flexiblity. You can use it for our bumpers with great results! My only additional note, is to sand it down, and when cured apply a glaze for perfection. Very very thin coat of glaze! __________________ Kris (93 SE) "One of Many Probes in Wyoming!" To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.