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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old May 14th, 2006, 12:30 PM   #1
drcpttec
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Exclamation Brake pads are tight against rotor

i'm putting on my new pads, rotors. and calipers. Just got the caliper with the pads on over the new rotor and and the new pads are so tight against the rotor that i can barely turn it... Will they wear down while driving? is that how they are suposed to be?
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Old May 14th, 2006, 02:44 PM   #2
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Front or Rear?

If it's the front, you need to compress the piston back into the housing all the way. it will be snug against the rotor, but shouldn't be pressing so that you can't turn it.

if it's the rear, you need to pull the bolt off the back of the caliper and use an allen wrench to pull the piston back into the housing. then you put the pads on, and turn the allen key until the pads touch the rotor. back it off 1/4 turn and you're done.

Good luck
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Old May 14th, 2006, 02:53 PM   #3
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its the front. the piston compressed all the way. i looked at it and it looked like the pads weren't pushed all the way back.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 03:57 PM   #4
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are the pads seated properly in the assembly? if the piston is all the way back, and the pads sit in there it must be ok...

it always makes me nervous when i do my brakes and the pads are touching, but it's never been an issue... maybe you're just worried?
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Old May 14th, 2006, 04:45 PM   #5
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i pushed them all the way back the the piston and it moves fine now...
now it just makes me wonder that when it pushes them to touch the rotor, how it will pull the pad back... huh.. it looks just like my old setup.. so i guess im not to worried..
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Old May 14th, 2006, 05:11 PM   #6
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it doesn't have to pull the pads back, the friction from the rotor will push them back just barely when you take your foot off the brake. the pads should look like they are touching the rotor, but in fact there is a sliver of space between them.

Sounds like you got it all good to go! now go break in those new brakes!
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Old May 14th, 2006, 05:42 PM   #7
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I read somewhere (I can't remember where) that when you release the brake pedal, the elasticity of the rubber seal around the caliper piston pulls the piston, and the brake pads, back a fraction of an inch, so the pads no longer rub against the rotor.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 08:09 PM   #8
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okay heres another question... working on the back rear caliper.. the handbrake wasn't connected to one of the calipers in the back.. i can't pull it out enough for it to stay open on the caliper. its like its stuck in the "pulled up position" the one on the passenger side though is connected and releases.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 08:13 PM   #9
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i thought those little metal clip things held the pads apart, beats me.

also, how does the outer side of the brake pad move? because its just against that solid surface of the caliper?
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Old May 14th, 2006, 08:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarexpress17
i thought those little metal clip things held the pads apart, beats me.

also, how does the outer side of the brake pad move? because its just against that solid surface of the caliper?
that part works fine now... now im trying to figure out how to release on of the rear parking brake things so i can attach it to the caliper.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 08:17 PM   #11
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did you pull the E-brake cable out of the clip that holds it to the place that the strut mounts on, (forget what its called)
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Old May 14th, 2006, 08:21 PM   #12
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the e-brake cable was bolted to a metal peice that attaches to the back of the caliper. then there are these 2 prong things that you put the end of the e-brake into so when you pull the lever in the car it pulls back the 2 prongs and works the brake. The e-brake cable on one side looks like its pulled back and i can't get it to release. on the passenger side though it is attached to my old caliper (haven't gotten to that one yet) and it is released.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 08:23 PM   #13
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i'm confused if you're talking about the actual caliper is not moving, or if the cable that is connected to the ebrake is not moving...

the rear calipers are notorious for seizing, so it's probably stuck if it's the caliper not moving. otherwise just replace the cable and you should be good to go. I guess you could try to work it loose by spraying some light penetrating lube in there... (oh the jokes...) Anything that's rust penetrating will probably work. I use a product called TRI-FLOW that's in a black spray can. actually works really well.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 08:26 PM   #14
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its the cable. i am putting on new calipers, rotors and pads now.. why would the right e-brake cable be released and work but the left side be stuck? what is it stuck to?? the other ones open? doesn't it come off the same cable?
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Old May 15th, 2006, 03:11 AM   #15
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I had the same problem. There are three parts to the ebrake cable: one to each of the two rear wheels, and a short centre one, from where the other to join, to the hand brake lever. It is quite possible for one part to seize. If water gets into the cable, it rusts, and the inner cable sticks to the outer cable.

You see the bracket where the outer part of the cable attaches to the caliper (not the lever where the inner part of the cable attaches)? There is a metal spring clip that holds the cable to the bracket. Use some penetrating oil, then use a screwdriver to pull that metal spring clip towards the centre of the car, to remove it. Then remove the outer cable from the bracket (push the outer cable towards the front of the car). Then attach the inner cable to the lever, then reattach the outer cable to the bracket, then reattach the metal spring clip.

You can try using some leverage to pull the seized cable, then squirt some sort of penetrating oil into the cable, then keep pulling it from either end to work the oil along the inside of the cable. It's a lot of work, especially if you have to keep going from one end, pulling it one way (at the rear wheel) to the other end, pulling it back the other way (at the handbrake lever). I eventually got mine free by this method (temporarily attached a bungee cord to the rear lever to help pull the cable back out, so I just had to keep working the handbrake inside the car), but it took some time.

Or, replace the seized cable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by polarexpress17
i thought those little metal clip things held the pads apart, beats me.

also, how does the outer side of the brake pad move? because its just against that solid surface of the caliper?
Good point. You might be right about the metal springs.

Last edited by NickR; May 15th, 2006 at 03:21 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 15th, 2006, 06:17 AM   #16
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If you can fit the calipers over the rotor, I wouldn't worry about it. The calipers will be pushed apart enough once turning ...... just like what happens in normal driving after you break.
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Old May 15th, 2006, 07:48 AM   #17
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Damn Nick, my head's spinning after that Inner/Outer cable monologue you have there.

drcpttec, just figure out which part is actually seized and you can go from there.
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Old May 15th, 2006, 08:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplode
Damn Nick, my head's spinning after that Inner/Outer cable monologue you have there.
Yep, my head was spinning as I wrote it! So much easier when you can just point and say "that bit there".
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Old May 15th, 2006, 10:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxxxxxxxxxtreme
If you can fit the calipers over the rotor, I wouldn't worry about it. The calipers will be pushed apart enough once turning ...... just like what happens in normal driving after you break.
lol i have driven so long without a handbrake i was happy that when i put the new brake system in that i would finally be able to use it. Kinda bothers me that its broke. it moves a little bit i've noticed.. just doesn't release as far out as the other side does. hoping i can just set the caliper with the allen wrench to how far the e-brake cable will release.

Finished everything... now the brake pedal feels softer.. engages alot lower.. is that normal?

Last edited by drcpttec; May 16th, 2006 at 03:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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