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N2O Technical Nitrous Oxide Tech/Help/Discussion

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Old November 8th, 2009, 04:20 PM   #1
suprakid366
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A/F ratio for spray

Well im gonna be ordering my wideband tomorow and by the time it gets here i want to know what i should get my A/F ration to when spraying a 50 shot then a 75 shot. Oh and an idle A/F and when i let of the gas/spray.

So anyone know?
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Old November 9th, 2009, 01:09 AM   #2
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I'd watch to make sure it stays in the 11-12 range. If you're getting to 12.5+, I'd pull fuel.

I'd just tune if for n/a though and use the plug readings to tweak the nitrous jet combos.
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Old November 9th, 2009, 09:07 AM   #3
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I'd just tune if for n/a though and use the plug readings to tweak the nitrous jet combos.
Make sure you have a few jets higher and lower for both the fuel and nitrous. This will allow you to fine tune it without making big jumps. Big jumps= bad news on nitrous applications.

Also make sure your intake clamps are Really tight and you don't spray too soon (keep it above 3K at the bare minimum). I've found out the hard way



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Old November 9th, 2009, 10:02 AM   #4
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Make sure you have a few jets higher and lower for both the fuel and nitrous. This will allow you to fine tune it without making big jumps. Big jumps= bad news on nitrous applications.

Also make sure your intake clamps are Really tight and you don't spray too soon (keep it above 3K at the bare minimum). I've found out the hard way



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What happens if your below 3k?
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Old November 9th, 2009, 10:16 AM   #5
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Usually it will backfire if over a 50 shot. Blows the intake tube apart and bends your VRIS butterflies. The motor can't consume it all quick enough and really you're just wasting it



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Old November 9th, 2009, 10:57 AM   #6
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I'd watch to make sure it stays in the 11-12 range. If you're getting to 12.5+, I'd pull fuel.

I'd just tune if for n/a though and use the plug readings to tweak the nitrous jet combos.
Ok stay in the 11-12 range while spraying? And then if im at 12.5 reduce the fuel? I dont like the plug readings, just always seems faulty. When i put the new plugs in a while ago and didnt even spray they were all completly white. Put afpr in and they arnt so white anymore, but they still get white when i drive around.

Just for the record.. Higher number is rich and lower number is lean?
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Old November 9th, 2009, 11:13 AM   #7
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Plugs are THE way to know what is going on if you can read them right. White and brown is good. White with brown spots is bad.

No, it's a ratio of air:fuel. 14:1 is lean (less fuel for the amount of air) while 12.5:1 is richer (more fuel for the amount of air). Closer to 1:1, the richer it is.



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Old November 10th, 2009, 11:49 AM   #8
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Well im gonna be ordering my wideband tomorow and by the time it gets here i want to know what i should get my A/F ration to when spraying a 50 shot then a 75 shot. Oh and an idle A/F and when i let of the gas/spray.

So anyone know?
i kept my as close to 13.1 as possible, i was able to keep running 113shot cold fusion jet on my stock 110hp n/a motor. running more nitrous than the motor output is never recomended but hey its a low compression motor and still running strong
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Old November 10th, 2009, 12:22 PM   #9
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I'd watch to make sure it stays in the 11-12 range. If you're getting to 12.5+, I'd pull pull nitrous/add fuel/a little of both.

I'd just tune if for n/a though and use the plug readings to tweak the nitrous jet combos.
Sorry. Typed from blackberry...auto correction didn't like my "/" ...pull nitrous/add fuel/a little of both.
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Old November 10th, 2009, 02:54 PM   #10
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my car is tuned for 12.0-12.3 on the jug..
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Old November 10th, 2009, 05:44 PM   #11
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Exactly how necessary is it to tune? I've never really heard of anyone tuning for nitrous before now.
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Old November 10th, 2009, 06:31 PM   #12
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Ok thx guys for the help. But these numbers are coming from when you are actually spraying correct? Like his-
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my car is tuned for 12.0-12.3 on the jug..
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Old November 10th, 2009, 09:18 PM   #13
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..yes thus the 'on the jug' part.

Glick how have you not heard of one tuning for nitrous? you have to tune to for in one way or another!
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Old November 10th, 2009, 11:49 PM   #14
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The manufacturers do a good job providing you with the correct jet settings most of the time but to get to most out of it you need to know what your air/fuel is doing and pull some timing to be safe.



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Old November 11th, 2009, 04:45 PM   #15
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I'm not experienced in the area, but you're changing permanent settings for a temporary fuel condition. To me it just doesn't make sense.

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I am NOT experienced in this area, at all.
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Old November 11th, 2009, 05:39 PM   #16
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I'm not experienced in the area, but you're changing permanent settings for a temporary fuel condition. To me it just doesn't make sense.

**Disclaimer**
I am NOT experienced in this area, at all.
Its because its still sometype of power adder. Not exactly forced induction, but any big power adder u should "tune" it to the right settings. More air/fuel= bigger boom and more heat so u need to control that boom and heat. No matter how temporary it is. As far as i understand it, all ur really changing is the fuel pressure with an afpr, but thats not even needed if u have a wet kit. And then u are also chaning the fuel/nitrous jets.
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Old November 11th, 2009, 06:02 PM   #17
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I'm not experienced in the area, but you're changing permanent settings for a temporary fuel condition. To me it just doesn't make sense.

**Disclaimer**
I am NOT experienced in this area, at all.
If you are not experienced then stop commenting! Yes it is for a temporary condition, but that 'temporary condition' will non-temporarily end your engine's life. You only would be changing the Fuel Pressure if you are not using megasquirt and only while on the bottle. Otherwise you would have a different map in your MS for nitrous.
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Old November 11th, 2009, 10:27 PM   #18
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I stopped reading at ..I'm not experienced. Please stop posting in this thread.
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Old November 12th, 2009, 12:01 AM   #19
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Haha. You don't tune any different while not on the spray, only while on the spray.

I.E. you don't just up the fuel pressure to get more fuel, just as you don't on a boosted car cause when you're not boosting (cruising and idle) your car will run like balls cause it will be rich. An FMU adjusts fuel pressure to boost pressure, that's the cheap way of getting more fuel on a boosted car.

With that said, MS can switch fuel maps when the nitrous is activated OR the cheaper way is to just adjust the fuel jet on your wet kit, with a dyno and a wideband. If you're rich with a .024 jet, switch to an .023 and run it again!! That's called tuning too



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Old November 12th, 2009, 12:40 AM   #20
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^^^ or fork over a c-note and a handful of jets and I'll tune it for you.
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Old November 12th, 2009, 12:01 PM   #21
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Yes....lets all resort to a haphazard tuning method cause that is the best forward progression i know of!
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Old November 12th, 2009, 05:52 PM   #22
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alright just opened my wideband and holy hell, my jaw dropped. Read through the manual and theres alot of crap u have to do for this thing. Cant believe i need to wire in this push button thing with an LED. The software is cool tho. But anyways whats the best stock o2 sensor to remove for the wideband one? The front one or the rear one?
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Old November 12th, 2009, 05:56 PM   #23
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if you have no leaks just plug the two and have a bung put in before the cat
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Old November 12th, 2009, 06:03 PM   #24
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what? cant i just take out a factory 02, and replace it with the wideband one? And leave the other factory 02 in and wired up?
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Old November 12th, 2009, 06:38 PM   #25
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why only read from one bank? it would cost you like 10 bucks to have a bung welded in so you can account for both banks..
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