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Old September 9th, 2010, 04:36 PM   #126
Dan [Sac]
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Well then I am in good company


Here is the center console pre-cleanup - the SDS ECU is mounted on the backside of it, since it doesn't require any attention once it's installed.



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Old September 9th, 2010, 04:48 PM   #127
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I hope you don't leave the mixture knob that rich all the time, you should bump up all your fuel values and move it back to "neutral". If you had to richen it up for any reason you don't have much left.
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Old September 9th, 2010, 04:49 PM   #128
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looking good dan. I as well have one of those bungs that i will be welding on my oil pan. I agree with you 100% on the reasons that its so much better (and cheaper!)
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Old September 9th, 2010, 04:53 PM   #129
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Well then I am in good company


Here is the center console pre-cleanup - the SDS ECU is mounted on the backside of it, since it doesn't require any attention once it's installed.



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/3d216e87.jpg
CV Axle mod ftw!
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Old September 9th, 2010, 05:25 PM   #130
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Summit Racing just set a new record! I ordered parts yesterday around 4:30 pm PST, and this morning at 9:30am they were on my doorstep!!! Holy crap, that is nice.

I got some hose for the oil return line, and a few odds and ends.

The holy grail of parts though was the fitting for welding on the oil pan...before, I was looking for a bung to weld on, then a fitting to thread into the bung, etc...

After some searching, I found that Russell makes a steel -10AN male end that's a weld-on part, thus combining everything into one. This way, I just weld that to the oil pan, and thread my -10AN hose end on it and call it a day. No more messing with teflon or other chemicals to prevent leaks.

Best of all, it was only $11 for this part, as opposed to usually $12 for the bung and another $15-20 for the NPT-to-AN fitting.

It's Russell Part# 683720 (summit p/n SUM-683720). They also make this for -8AN line and I *think* for -12AN line.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/14df542f.jpg

Beautiful, one less part I have to research a part number and price for.

Thank You Dan.
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Old September 9th, 2010, 05:32 PM   #131
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I hope you don't leave the mixture knob that rich all the time, you should bump up all your fuel values and move it back to "neutral". If you had to richen it up for any reason you don't have much left.
Ha, I didn't notice that, it should be centered, I think it got bumped during assembly. It's normally dead center as I don't like to mess with remembering where it was.

I will have to be on the dyno to retune due to all the new parts going on it unfortunately (or fortunately, we will see).


As for right now, if you will excuse me, I will retire with a beer or two as the NFL kickoff 2010 is about to be beginning, and I have suffered enough without football since the end of the super bowl until now.

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Old September 9th, 2010, 05:52 PM   #132
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The only part i like about football is half time. All those sexy girls chealrleading lol. nice job on the car.
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Old September 9th, 2010, 07:44 PM   #133
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Old September 13th, 2010, 11:27 PM   #134
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Today I made the oil return line, and started on the under-engine cradle. I wanted to keep the oil line angled all the way down, so I used a short piece of 30-degree curve pipe I had, and welded that to the oil pan, then welded the male -10AN fitting to the end of the pipe, then made the hose. This way there is a slope to the line all the way up, and it also allowed me to weld the pipe all the way up against the flange of the pan (welded it on the inside of the pan).

Really short on real estate for the line, but somehow it made it through. About 10" of the line are wrapped in XRP Mylar FyreFoil Lite (800*F protection) as it goes within 2" of the hot pipe. I also used this wrap on the rubber lines feeding ice water to the intercooler (last pic).

The ice box is now mounted in the cabin, as is the Bosch Cobra pump that will circulate the water. I think later on this semester I'm going to use my car as a demo in a Thermal Fluid Systems class to calculate the thermal efficiency and pressure loss of the intercooler



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/21674510.jpg



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/9a6a862e.jpg







http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/becf1cc6.jpg
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Old September 14th, 2010, 12:04 AM   #135
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Getting there, nice work on the pan
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Old September 14th, 2010, 06:41 AM   #136
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Originally Posted by Dan [Sac] View Post
Today I made the oil return line, and started on the under-engine cradle. I wanted to keep the oil line angled all the way down, so I used a short piece of 30-degree curve pipe I had, and welded that to the oil pan, then welded the male -10AN fitting to the end of the pipe, then made the hose. This way there is a slope to the line all the way up, and it also allowed me to weld the pipe all the way up against the flange of the pan (welded it on the inside of the pan).

Really short on real estate for the line, but somehow it made it through. About 10" of the line are wrapped in XRP Mylar FyreFoil Lite (800*F protection) as it goes within 2" of the hot pipe. I also used this wrap on the rubber lines feeding ice water to the intercooler (last pic).

The ice box is now mounted in the cabin, as is the Bosch Cobra pump that will circulate the water. I think later on this semester I'm going to use my car as a demo in a Thermal Fluid Systems class to calculate the thermal efficiency and pressure loss of the intercooler



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/21674510.jpg



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/9a6a862e.jpg



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/66864f40.jpg



http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e/becf1cc6.jpg
So much awesome..
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Old September 14th, 2010, 07:04 AM   #137
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Old September 15th, 2010, 09:18 PM   #138
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The uni-member (engine cradle) is done. Looks a bit weird, but given that I'm working without a tube bender, this is the best I could muster. Also works in terms of what it needs to do. The rear transmission mount it only under tension and compression so that gives me good strength there.


The front engine mount (bolts to the block between the oil filter and transaxle) will put some bending stress on the 2 beams that it's mounted on, but given the amount of stiffness in all the other mounts, I'm not worried about it. I will be also boxing the underside of it to serve as a jacking point.

I discarded a full differential brace idea as it would be too time consuming to carry out at this time. I feel that with the AWR stock position transm. mount, the tranny saver, and this new mx-3 style mount bolted to the cradle I will have sufficient movement restraints.














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Old September 15th, 2010, 11:15 PM   #139
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Looks awesome and beefy!
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Old September 16th, 2010, 11:13 AM   #140
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Dan, had you considered putting a gusset of some sort underneath the rear mount under that flat piece that the mound is welded to? It just seems like on that thin piece of metal that it would want to "twist" fore and aft.

I'm sure it's plenty strong, but it seems like it wouldn't be a horrible idea to put a couple pieces of metal vertically between the two pipes, and weld it to the flat piece as well.

Looks darn good though!

Are you going to have it powdercoated or painted or anything?
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Old September 16th, 2010, 06:01 PM   #141
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If that 3/16" steel plate has any issues holding up, then I have other problems

The plate only looks thin because I welded up to its surface. The whole thing will be painted black. With about $3-400 in dyno tuning still on the horizon, I am in money saving mode at the moment.
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Old September 16th, 2010, 07:37 PM   #142
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If that 3/16" steel plate has any issues holding up, then I have other problems

The plate only looks thin because I welded up to its surface. The whole thing will be painted black. With about $3-400 in dyno tuning still on the horizon, I am in money saving mode at the moment.
No kidding on the 3/16's, we use that for skid plates on the Jeep and it weighs over 4k, I think you'll be ok.
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Old September 16th, 2010, 10:39 PM   #143
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No harm done. Just thought I'd throw out the first thing that came to mind. Knowing the thickness of the material now certainly lays to rest any thoughts of bent pieces.
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Old September 18th, 2010, 04:18 PM   #144
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This just keeps getting better and better! I'm also super jealous of your engine datalogging system. lol Honestly it's going to be a great and very useful tool. Especially for a car that is technically not street legal, so every second of tuning and logged info is unbelievably critical. It's just going to be awesome to see in action, in it's new incantation.
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Old September 18th, 2010, 04:25 PM   #145
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This just keeps getting better and better! I'm also super jealous of your engine datalogging system. lol Honestly it's going to be a great and very useful tool. Especially for a car that is technically not street legal, so every second of tuning and logged info is unbelievably critical. It's just going to be awesome to see in action, in it's new incantation.
what ever it is sounds like the best thing ever
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Old September 18th, 2010, 04:44 PM   #146
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^ I wasn't saying anything negative. Just acknowledging that when he want to run the car he is limited to track or dyno time only. He has to pay top $$ every time he wants to drive, and even has to tow it there. If you can log every second of your very expensive running time. This is immeasurably useful in the tuning process.
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Old September 19th, 2010, 12:25 AM   #147
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Haven't done much today, just cleaned the oil pan, painted it, painted the cradle, and stared at it for a while as I can't figure out how to fit front-mounted traction bars. If I were to do those bars, it would be a PRM-style system, which is a direct copy of the best Honda stuff available itself.

By the way, to any of yee interested in doing drag stuff, and you can't figure out something, and you can't find it on PT - go to HondaTech. They are light years ahead of anything we're doing, and chances are that they've already tried doing whatever it is we're trying to figure out. Things like traction bars, parachute mounts, wheelie bars, whatever.

Anywho...back on point - traction bars. My downpipe and hot pipes are too low to allow for a front traction bar. So I might have to do them in the back - which is not that bad.

If I have my power flow figured out correctly, the control arms are being pulled forward (forcing the tires into toe-in) by the slicks as they get rotated by the hubm which in turn gets moved by the axles. So with convention traction bars, the traction arms are in compression.

With rear mounted arms (bolted between the control arms and the chassis), the traction arms would be in tension at full acceleration. Under braking it'd be in compression. Should do the job equally well if all else is equal. Ideally for high powered cars you'd use both (plus solid bushings), but this should hopefully work for me. I don't have a front sway bar so fit shouldn't be horribly bad (I say that now only to weep later, I'm sure).
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Old September 19th, 2010, 05:27 AM   #148
hppwdn
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By the way, to any of yee interested in doing drag stuff, and you can't figure out something, and you can't find it on PT - go to HondaTech. They are light years ahead of anything we're doing, and chances are that they've already tried doing whatever it is we're trying to figure out. Things like traction bars, parachute mounts, wheelie bars, whatever.
Definitely the best for FWD drag racing info. I read their drag section on a daily basis. Been interested in making one of those weight bars like Miller sells for a long time.
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, 14psi, DOT approved Hoosier drags, pump gas.
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Old September 19th, 2010, 09:13 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by Dan [Sac] View Post

By the way, to any of yee interested in doing drag stuff, and you can't figure out something, and you can't find it on PT - go to HondaTech. They are light years ahead of anything we're doing, and chances are that they've already tried doing whatever it is we're trying to figure out. Things like traction bars, parachute mounts, wheelie bars, whatever.

I have been sayin this for some years now. Bash them all you want but they have a wealth of knowledge.
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Old September 19th, 2010, 10:29 PM   #150
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I wanted to chuck the hood sticks I've been using as props for the past forever, so I used a blown hatch strut....and even that thing is stiff enough to damn near break the carbon/glass hood when trying to close it. I have to pull down on the hood-side bracket to make sure the hood won't split when trying to close it.

Maybe I'll try to find an even more blown one

I also got the oil pan silicone'd up. One of my least favorite jobs ever.
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