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  ProbeTalk.com Forums > Performance Section > 2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Performance

2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Performance Discussion of Performance topics for V6 2.5L

 
November 4th, 2010, 12:53 PM   #1
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
Official How To: Vaf To Maf Conversion

alright everyone. there have been a few threads here talking about the millenia maf conversion. yet none explain how to do it without reading through 10+ pages of posts. so heres my attempt at a how to for this conversion

a couple things to note before beginning:
1. this is obd2 only. the obd1 millenia did not come with a maf
2. any wire connections made should be souldered just to be sure its a good connection
3. please do not PM me with questions. i think itd be more beneficial to post them here so anyone who happens to have the same question will be able to find the answer
4. this works best if you do NOT have a stock intake. i have not tried it with the stock intake but it seems to be easier with an aftermarket one. also cold air intake does make a significant difference in this application
5. millenia MAP sensor is NOT needed

lets begin:

first, here is a list of the necessary parts:
1. 96 millenia (non-S) ecu. number KLG8 on it.
2. KL47 maf. another common find is the KJ01 maf. though it has not been tested, i have yet to find a reason why its any different.
3. IAT sensor. this is not a millenia specific sensor. i have read that one from a miata has been used as well. found simply on rockauto under 96 millenia
4. pigtails for both the maf and iat sensors
5. rubber grommet around the iat from the stock milly intake
6. i believe a stock probe CPS pigtail has been used instead of the maf pigtail. just another option
7. noise filter (may not be necessary and will be explained more below)

tools needed:
power drill
5/8" drill bit
soldering iron
solder
16-14 gauge wire
wire cutter/stripper/crimper
screwdriver
------------

step .5:
disconnect battery

step 1:
unplug the vaf and remove the whole intake

step 2:
the maf will directly swap places with the vaf. with that in mind, remove all couplers from the tube that goes from the vaf to the air filter.

step 3:
with the tube in hand, grab your drill. drill a hole in the tube, placing the iat between the maf and the filter. has been done with iat placed between tb and maf but i have had better results putting it before the maf as thats how it is on the milly

step 4:
take the rubber grommet and shove it in this hole. it will be a tough fit. i got mine in with a half inch bit and a little extra material removed with a dremel. so 5/8" should work just fine.

step 5:
after you force the grommet into the hole, push the iat sensor in there. this may also be difficult if the hole you drilled is a bit small. with enough muscle it'll go. set this tube and intake stuff aside

step 6:
you have a couple options here. either you can de-pin the vaf connector and reinsert the pins into the maf and iat connectors.
or
you can splice in the maf and iat pigtail into the vaf wires. making both maf and vaf connectors useable for quick swapping back and forth if neccessary.
i did not use any of the connectors. i just depinned the vaf and plugged the individual pins into the maf and iat.
either way its your choice. here is how the wires should be:

VAF pin 1 (red) -> MAF pin 2 (Millenia harness: brown/red, CPS harness: green)
VAF pin 2 (brown) -> No Connection (this is where +12v power will be)
VAF pin 3 (black/blue) -> MAF pin 3 (Millenia harness: black/blue, CPS harness: red)
VAF pin 4 (black/blue) -> IAT pin 2 (Millenia harness: black/yellow)
VAF pin 5 (black/red) -> IAT pin 1 (Millenia harness: orange/blue)
+12V source (o2 sensor heater/ ignition relay/ etc) -> MAF pin 1 (Millenia harness: red/black)

most have used the ignition relay switched +12v for the power for the maf. simply take the relay out, strip the wire about half an inch. place it in the terminal and push the relay back in pinching the wire in there.

some of you, like me, will either have a purple wire instead of the brown one. or the brown color has changed to purple over the years. its the same wire and will not be used for the maf.

the black and blue wires are grounds. it does not matter where they are plugged in.

the order of the wires on the iat is not important

be sure to solder all connections if you chose not to depin the connectors. and shrink wrap or wrap in electrical tape all the connections as well

step 7:
now that you have all your pigtails wired up, put the intake back together. the maf has a screen on it. that screen should face the filter. plug your connecters in. thats it for the engine bay

step 8:
remove your stock ecu. you must remove the panel around the shifter and ebrake. then the panel with the heater controls and radio. this part is difficult as there are 4 screws holding in the ecu. two on the left and two on the right. they are located on the corners near the connectors. there are no screws way in the back. its a pain in the ass but you'll get it out eventually

step 9:
plug in your KLG8 ecu. i didnt bother to screw the new ecu back up since its a pain. it wont matter.

step 10:
reconnect the battery and start the car!

photos:
here is a photo of the wire colors and locations. the maf is upside down but facing the correct direction. keep that in mind
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0122.jpg
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0117.jpg

iat wires
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0119.jpg

fuse panel
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0121.jpg

overall intake setup. not as ideal as a true CAI. itll be changing soon
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0120.jpg


---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:50 PM ----------

troubleshooting:

1. you will get a check engine light if yer car is mtx. thats cuz this ecu is for an atx. it will not effect you at all.

2. if, when you start the car, you cannot rev the engine past about 4k rpm, your maf wiring is wrong or your maf is bad. check and double check wiring and connections. make sure you are getting +12v

3. you may hear popples/crackles from the exhaust. particularly right between decel and accel. its normal.

4. i ended up installing a noise filter:
http://www.worldwidedx.com/home-brew...on-filter.html. inline to the power to the maf and grounded to the frame. i had issues with power fluctuating and this is there to make sure the maf gets steady power. not necessary unless you also have these issues.

if you have any other issues or questions feel free to post here.

if i have missed anything in this how to please let me know and ill edit it accordingly

 
November 4th, 2010, 02:20 PM   #2
slammedslug
Donating User
 
: Mar 2007
: waukesha wi
: 6,257
ok NOT to clog up the thread, but what is the advantage of this?

i know own a 1996 PGT, and i no this is only for obd2 probes or other KL powered cars, but why would i want to do this? any gains from it?
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:23 PM   #3
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
yes. especially if you have breathing mods. the vaf bottoms out at 3/4 throttle or so and reverts to an ecu stored map. nothing special lol. but the maf reads more air from the breathing mods and makes a map on the fly. so you'll notice a little something there. it also reads boost. whitedart has/had this setup with 5psi, stock injectors, and no engine management.
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:25 PM   #4
slammedslug
Donating User
 
: Mar 2007
: waukesha wi
: 6,257
so if i have the basica bolts on (CAI, headers, exhaust) and do this conversion

is it dyno proven or track prove to great more power/run faster time?
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:31 PM   #5
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
yeah you should notice something. its not HUGE with n/a. so far i do not believe its been dynoed.

here is my mod list copied from my sig on another forum (yes some are not engine mods, i just copied and pasted)

millly MAF conversion!, ported KLG4 intake mani (finally!), port and polished DE throttle body, pheno tb spacer, ze iac (modded tb). Mach 1 lip, RR-racing sts, miata billet shift knob, falken tires, battery to trunk relocate, Apexi power intake CAI where battery was, projector headlights with 6000k hids, sleepy eye mod, clear corners, NGK V-Power plugs, matt b. (aka 94Base) fiberglass test pipe, back seat delete, magnaflow on the way

and with those i definitely feel a difference. hopefully msdklze chimes in on this as well since he has an n/a probe with this conversion

the main point is that the vaf, once pushed all the way back by the incoming air at wot, doesnt read anything. its pointless. but with the maf you will get a much more accurate reading of the air entering your engine
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:33 PM   #6
slammedslug
Donating User
 
: Mar 2007
: waukesha wi
: 6,257
hmmm i think i might consider this then

cant be to hard, nice write up BTW!
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:36 PM   #7
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
its not hard at all! the hardest part is finding the parts lol.
and thanks! took quite a while to type all that up lol
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:37 PM   #8
slammedslug
Donating User
 
: Mar 2007
: waukesha wi
: 6,257
i jsut wouldnt want to go threw all the hassle i guess of hooking this up and doing this mod

to create mor problems, or not feel a "butt" gain

thats my biggest consern
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:40 PM   #9
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
you will definitely feel a butt gain. its the documented gain im not sure about. hasnt been documented yet lol. and its not too much of a hassle. i can swap back and forth in about 15 mins. but getting the ecu out the first time sucks the most
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:42 PM   #10
slammedslug
Donating User
 
: Mar 2007
: waukesha wi
: 6,257
well if i do it i wannt soder all the conections with the right connectors so it looks stock from the harness all the way to the MAF and IAT sensors
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:44 PM   #11
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
yeah thats a good idea
 
November 4th, 2010, 02:45 PM   #12
redPGT96
PT Regular
 
: Jan 2009
: Germantown, WI
: 28
: 529
this is interesting, I think this would probably be a good idea to do before I put the supercharger on. Great write up!
__________________
There are some who call me.....Tim


2005 R6- new toy




96pgt-SOLD
 
November 4th, 2010, 05:07 PM   #13
MSDKLZE
Turbo Junkie
 
 
: Mar 2008
: Gulfport Mississippi
: 34
: 4,071
Yes, the MAF swap is quite beneficial.

My setup is :
Straight-neck ZE
KL31 cams
digital window switches (for vris)
9lb flywheel
P.A. cai
A/C delete
P/S bypass
MSD wires & V-power plugs
full headers & straight pipe
mild-ported manifold runners
thermo-block spacers
FD wheels
Tokico Illuminas
mild weight reduction
PRM traction bar
CM segmented kevlar clutch
AWR mounts


and now with MAF, KLG8,& IAT

I am completely convinced I got a HP and tQ gain of some sort at all rpm ranges. It just pulls so smooth now and doesnt die off at red line. There is no rev limiter and it will literally spin up past 8k rpms. I've proven it on video.

there is a possibility of mileage gain too but I have a lead foot, so I will never know
__________________
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU BUILT IT!!









 
November 4th, 2010, 06:58 PM   #14
WhiteDart
POC Mod
 
 
: Oct 2002
: Boosting across east TN!
: 35
: 9,049
:
whitedart has/had this setup with 5psi, stock injectors, and no engine management.
Switched over to S injectors but still have it, and driving it daily.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBVLNou8xFY
__________________
Jim K.


Gone but not forgotten:

(

) Its not purple dammit! Its
BOYSENBERRY!

New project

Daily When I go for a drive, I leave life behind. Friends, work, everything. Its just me, the car, and a twisty road. The exhilaration of being on the edge of catastrophe is something that I will never be able to give up.
 
November 4th, 2010, 08:05 PM   #15
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
:
Switched over to S injectors but still have it, and driving it daily.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBVLNou8xFY
just to show that it is reliable and wont cause problems. thanks for your input msdklze and whitedart.
 
November 7th, 2010, 07:24 AM   #16
nocomply540
Member
 
: Jul 2002
: 211
Has anyone thought about using KLG4 parts instead of KLG8 parts?
 
November 7th, 2010, 08:32 AM   #17
MonoxideChild
POC Mod
 
 
: Jul 2002
: Rockford, IL.
: 39
: 17,228
KLg4's ecu's are alot different. then you would have to be swapping pretty much every last piece of electronic on the motor.
__________________
PaTricK


~ 92 PGT, 97 KL MTX 626, 05 Mazda6, 13 Mazda CX9, 09 Kia Sportage 4x4 v6 ~
 
November 7th, 2010, 08:56 AM   #18
MSDKLZE
Turbo Junkie
 
 
: Mar 2008
: Gulfport Mississippi
: 34
: 4,071
:
Has anyone thought about using KLG4 parts instead of KLG8 parts?
wait .. wut?

Do you know what a klg8 and klg4 is ?
__________________
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU BUILT IT!!








 
November 7th, 2010, 09:44 AM   #19
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
if he's referring to a 626 I believe it has been tried, at least for obd2, and was unseccessful if I remember correctly
__________________
1996 pgt - 148k miles
milly maf conversion, klg4 intake mani(need a new one!), stage 1 clutch, mx3 flywheel, many other mods
 
November 7th, 2010, 11:51 AM   #20
MSDKLZE
Turbo Junkie
 
 
: Mar 2008
: Gulfport Mississippi
: 34
: 4,071
Well, I had debated doing that swap recently, but it was so complicated, I gave up.
I still have access to the entire 98 626. All the pieces are still in it except for the motor, which I bought.
__________________
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU BUILT IT!!








 
November 7th, 2010, 01:37 PM   #21
nocomply540
Member
 
: Jul 2002
: 211
:
wait .. wut?

Do you know what a klg8 and klg4 is ?


I was under the impression that the KLG8 was the millenia 2.5 na motor and the klg4 is what I have in my 2002 626. It comes with coilpacks and a MAF from the factory. I thought it would be easier seeing as how it's the same engine. I would think it'd be easier to just use the 626 MTX ecu. Just throwing some thoughts out there.
 
November 7th, 2010, 02:11 PM   #22
MSDKLZE
Turbo Junkie
 
 
: Mar 2008
: Gulfport Mississippi
: 34
: 4,071
nah, the Klde is what they put in the Millenia 2.5 and the 96 Milly ecu is a KLG8.
The 98? + 626 motor is the KLG4 and I forgot what the ecu code is. To use the 626 hardware (coilpacks and external cam sensor) would require using the ENTIRE 626 harness and cluster. i didnt want to go through the guess work of splicing harnesses, so I quit that project completely.
__________________
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU BUILT IT!!








 
November 7th, 2010, 02:25 PM   #23
jeantalus
Jr. Member
 
: Nov 2008
: France
: 34
: 110
:
1. this is obd2 only. the obd1 millenia did not come with a maf
does it fit on a OBD1 probe??
__________________
First known PGT-ZE in France,SE on 9PSI,3rd in France
 
November 7th, 2010, 02:45 PM   #24
mikexmayhem
Juiced Member
 
: Apr 2010
: Apple Valley, MN
: 899
it will "fit" but it won't work unless yer obd2. It just wont
__________________
1996 pgt - 148k miles
milly maf conversion, klg4 intake mani(need a new one!), stage 1 clutch, mx3 flywheel, many other mods
 
November 7th, 2010, 03:45 PM   #25
nocomply540
Member
 
: Jul 2002
: 211
:
nah, the Klde is what they put in the Millenia 2.5 and the 96 Milly ecu is a KLG8.
The 98? + 626 motor is the KLG4 and I forgot what the ecu code is. To use the 626 hardware (coilpacks and external cam sensor) would require using the ENTIRE 626 harness and cluster. i didnt want to go through the guess work of splicing harnesses, so I quit that project completely.

Thanks for the 411 kind sir!
 

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