It really depends on the rest of your setup, especially your springs
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Sway Bars - How they work and how to choose the right size for your needs
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So hans since your the resident guru.... what do you think about tokico springs/struts and a 626 RSB on a daily driver that enjoys running windy roads in ohio in its time off?
No pressure i will make my own descision, but if oyu see any immediate short comings i am all earsMazdaSPEED6
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I have never driven or even riden in a car with Tokico springs, so all I know is what other people here say about them, and what Tokico claims about them (they say their rate is 170 front, 140 rear, which, if true, is softer than a stock PGT (187, 146)
But one guy here said they actually felt STIFFER than stock, so who knows what the real story is.
All I'm saying is that if you took any springs and struts and put them together, Tokicos have the best chance of being well-matched.
It's what I'd buy, and yes the 626 bar is what I'd buy too. Remember, at 16mm, the 626 bar is the same size as the old Mazdaspeed bar, and Mazdaspeed knows their shitLast edited by Hans[93GT]; January 14, 2005, 03:01 PM.
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Originally posted by kornyguy95pgtok. got a couple questions. I NEED to replace the endlinks on my probe(rear) and looking at prices I have been considering getting a new sway bar kit and just doing the whole thing.
suggestions?KEN
'93 Probe GT, KLZE, Superior Friction Clutch, Accusump, TC Designs Custom Oil Pan, Sewer Pipe CAI, Drilled Out Bango Bolt, Yellow Fuzzy Dice Hanging From Mirror, Cooler Decals Than Anything You Got
...........okay i lied about the dice
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Originally posted by pgt95So you are in effect strapping the tqo bars together? How is it fitting by the center mounts near the frame?!?!?KEN
'93 Probe GT, KLZE, Superior Friction Clutch, Accusump, TC Designs Custom Oil Pan, Sewer Pipe CAI, Drilled Out Bango Bolt, Yellow Fuzzy Dice Hanging From Mirror, Cooler Decals Than Anything You Got
...........okay i lied about the dice
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The actual stiffness of the bar (rather than just its comparative stiffness with respect to another bar bent into the same shape but of different diameter) can be computed if you know a few more things about the bar than just its outside diameter(s), plus a few engineering structural analysis formulas. Then you need to determine what effect this additional rear roll stiffness as seen out at the tires has on the distribution of the existing total roll stiffness. Obviously, your TLLTD will shift rearward, but whether that's by a couple percent or more like ten percent depends on how much roll stiffness that your car's suspension has already. For most stock-ish cars, you can read that as anything from "less push" (if your car has quite a bit of roll resistance already) to "loose" (if it's soft enough to roll like a boat in a storm when pushed through the corners a bit).
Whether adding that much rear roll stiffness without stiffening the front slightly at the same time would actually be better may well be up for grabs. It's possible that this would loosen up the handling too much for individual comfort, with the unintended result being that you'd drive *less hard* just to stay out of the region where you no longer have confidence that the rear is going to remain behind the front. Trust me, there IS such a thing as being too loose.
Or, given that it's possible to have enough rear roll stiffness to lift the inside rear tire clear off the ground, there becomes a point at which it makes no difference how much rear bar is there, as 100% of any additional Lateral Load Transfer will be resisted up front. The car might turn in better, but at some point (perhaps depending on the duration of steady-state cornering) tripod-style cornering will give back any transitional gains.
NormLast edited by Norm Peterson; May 19, 2005, 05:15 AM.'95 626 LX-V6/M5 . . . Philly Region SCCA #85EP (weenie-prepped EP car that's Prepared just enough, sometimes)
2008 Mustang GT (un-F Stock already)
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Originally posted by Norm PetersonOr, given that it's possible to have enough rear roll stiffness to lift the inside rear tire clear off the ground, there becomes a point at which it makes no difference how much rear bar is there, as 100% of any additional Lateral Load Transfer will be resisted up front. The car might turn in better, but at some point (perhaps depending on the duration of steady-state cornering) tripod-style cornering will give back any transitional gains.
NormKEN
'93 Probe GT, KLZE, Superior Friction Clutch, Accusump, TC Designs Custom Oil Pan, Sewer Pipe CAI, Drilled Out Bango Bolt, Yellow Fuzzy Dice Hanging From Mirror, Cooler Decals Than Anything You Got
...........okay i lied about the dice
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Dan, if this is a stupid question just yell at me....but im just trying to check my understanding and put it in a simple format for my own dumb ass
basicaly....the thicker the antisway bar you put in the rear...provided proper strength and stiffness or whatnot (proper construction) the more towards oversteer you will place the handeling tendancies of your car?05' AM General 1151 Up-Armored HMMWV "Humvee" TurboDiesel V8, 190chp - 400ctq on JP8
99' Honda VTR1000F 996 Superhawk
94' Ford Ranger 4.0L XLT
96' Boysenberry Probe GT - ZE Swap
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Simplified: if you do not change any of the other dimensions of that rear bar, the thicker you make it the stiffer it gets. Assuming that no changes were made to stiffen the front suspension, it's the now greater rear stiffness against roll that brings with it anywhere from slightly less understeer to wild oversteer depending on how large of a rear bar stiffness change was made.
Remember to think in terms of stiffness, as it's the stiffness that matters (load is attracted more toward where it is greater). Comparisons based on thickness alone are valid only if the bars being compared have otherwise identical shape and are mounted in the same fashion. This may be a fair enough comparison for discussion of otherwise similar bars intended to fit one specific car platform (e.g. Probe/MX-6/626, or GM G-body), but thickness by itself is not enough information for comparing bars that differ in other ways as well.
NormLast edited by Norm Peterson; February 22, 2006, 05:37 AM.'95 626 LX-V6/M5 . . . Philly Region SCCA #85EP (weenie-prepped EP car that's Prepared just enough, sometimes)
2008 Mustang GT (un-F Stock already)
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You won't change your front sway bar. Trust me on that one, it's not removable unless you drop the entire front subframe, including lower control arms. Also, no one makes aftermarket front bars for the Probe. You don't need them. The car understeers heavily out of the box, adding a bigger front bar makes things worse.90 Mazda 323 - KLZE, fender-flared, right hand drive, 2350 lb fully loaded sex machine. || Pic Thread ||- SOLD
93 PGT FRANKENPROBE - 10.24 @ 139.9 mph ||545 whp @ 20 psi || Timeslip || Dyno slip|| Build Thread - GONE
97 GTS - Rear Wheel Drive KLZE, 6-speed, 3.90 Torsen LSD, 2650 lb, daily driver! - Build Thread - GONE
90 Ghettocet KLiata - forever WIP
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