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  • Overcharging Alternator - car shutdown

    Car is 95 Probe GT and I drove the car too long with overcharging alternator and it cooked the battery dry. Just before the car shutdown, the voltage gauge pegged to the top and the dash lights flashed, and then the car stalled.
    I replaced battery and the car cranks, no spark, headlights come on, not sure if dash lights come on. I know I need to replace the alternator, possibly distributor but what do you think the condition of the PCM or ECU may be? Still need to check to see if fuel pump kicks on because I don't hear it when I turn the key on. Also, no check engine light when I turn the key on. I do see the symbol that looks like a driver behind a steering wheel, the same one that lit when the alternator started to overcharge. I have driven this car 10 years and have never noticed that one.

    Thanks
    my email address is NOT working!

  • #2
    There are endless possibilities as what could have been damaged by this. But with out actually doing circuit testing I can't tell you what is wrong. I hope you have some good diagnosis skills, good luck. And it can be fixed just be patient with it. These cars are becoming very rare now and it would be a shame to see another go to the jy
    93 Silver Probe Gt ZE!!!, CarDomain lowered, 17" konig appeals, stainless steel equal length headers, 2.5" header back exhaust, rebuilt suspension, mazda6 brakes, rear drilled & sloted rotors,
    2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited hard top 4X4, steel blue, 07 MazdaSpeed3 GrandTouring Edition

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    • #3
      Overcharging Alternator -

      Yes I agree with you. I am not ready to let this car go and it will sit through the winter until I can get into it in a couple of months. Thanks for the response.
      my email address is NOT working!

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      • #4
        Check the "main fuse" under the hood, it's the only 100 amp one. ITS BOLTED IN, don't just pull it.
        Some people are living life and some people are just living.

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        • #5
          ^^^ that was my thought as well
          My '97 GTS in its prime
          New GTS Stripped and gutted rebuild from ground up.
          2000 Explorer XLS 2 inch lift 32 inch BFG's My Wifes Daily

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          • #6
            my alternators internal regulator failed once and overcharged (to 17+V) i remember driving home with the fan on full blast, rear demister on, headlights on etc and if i went above 2000rpm or the ECU would shut off. time to swap out your alternator. they do fail often, im on my third one.
            Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
            Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
            Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

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            • #7
              interesting.. the exact and i mean exact same thing happened to me while i was driving my spare probe. i have not had any time to look at the car but the roadside assistance guy told me my alternator fried the ignition, the car currently runs if you hotwire it and jump the starter.
              -Red 1993 16v Probe in Aruba, unable to be saved but shall rust in peace.
              -Silver 1993 24v Probe in The Netherlands, big project to make it perfect.

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              • #8
                Update to overcharged battery

                Had the ECU repaired by a company in CO, do not recall the name, but I now have a check engine light when the key is turned on, I replaced distributor and I have spark, I have fuel at the fuel rail yet I do not hear the pump running with key turned on. Car tries to start, but doesn't. Also, if it cranks for more than 3 seconds, it seems to jump or buck or get out of its smooth cranking sequence. I have verified my timing with No 1 piston approaching TDC and rotor pointing to No 1 terminal on distributor cap. This is where I am at. I am starting to thing the engine jumped crank and cam timing?
                my email address is NOT working!

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                • #9
                  Not sure how you could have jumped crank cam timing with the original problem. Do you have pressure at the rail or did it just trickle our?
                  93 PGT CAI, Egay headers, high flow cat. 2.5 mandrel bent with Borla, Yonaka coilovers,19mm rear bar,CM 12lb fly and stage 2 clutch

                  She tends to argue with me daily...yep it's a Probe

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                  • #10
                    Mine made similar sounds when the rear cam wheel pin got mashed. It looked like everything was in time but wasn't turning the rear cams. Take off the intake, rear cam cover and turn the engine by hand (crank pulley only so you don't ruin possibly good timing,) if the cams don't move that's the problem. Mine stumbled occasionally, cranked forever, had fuel. Also check the button in the distributor cap, I've had one of those break off before while checking everything. Finally check the fuel pump fuse anything could have blown and see if the fuel shut cutoff needs to be reset in the trunk. Sounds like it has fuel if it stumbles here and there though. Check all the sensors you can and the distributor with a multimeter. That's my list of off the wall stuff to check.
                    Probe out for Harambe
                    94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                    • #11
                      93laserpgt

                      The fuel at the rail is just a trickle. The pump is clearly not humming, I have a signal at the fuel pump relay, but I need to check the inertia switch and may need to install a fuel pump.
                      my email address is NOT working!

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                      • #12
                        Sounds like your on the right track
                        93 PGT CAI, Egay headers, high flow cat. 2.5 mandrel bent with Borla, Yonaka coilovers,19mm rear bar,CM 12lb fly and stage 2 clutch

                        She tends to argue with me daily...yep it's a Probe

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                        • #13
                          Thanks

                          Yes a good challenge to get this car back on the road -
                          my email address is NOT working!

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                          • #14
                            Update

                            I bypassed the inertia switch and I now have steady fuel coming from the pump, however, have not yet tested fuel pressure rating. The car starts, upon starting, seems to run for maybe a second and then dies. I can smell the combustion coming from back of car. I am now guessing the ignition switch took a hit from the battery overcharge or else the exhaust is clogged from sitting for 1 1/2 years now. Need to do further testing.
                            my email address is NOT working!

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                            • #15
                              Updated on overcharged battery

                              1)Okay - the car will run for 5 seconds when fuel is introduced into intake manifold through pcv port. Normal cranking the car sounds like it will start, but stumbles before turning over. I can smell some combustion at the tail pipe.

                              2)I bypassed the fuel inertia switch to eliminate that as a point of failure.

                              3)i replaced the fuel pump relay and when I remove it, I get a signal with the test light on the 2 contacts closest to the firewall.

                              4)When I jump the two terminals closest to drivers fender with pump relay removed, I DO NOT hear the fuel pump but I hear a slight hum in the fuel rail and fuel is clearly being introduced into fuel rail.

                              5)When I removed the fuel pressure regulator and jump those 2 terminals in the previous step, I get lots of fuel exiting the fuel rail.

                              6)When I jump the FP and GRND in the diagnostic box, the fuel pump makes no noise.

                              7)I have the rear seat removed and was ready to cut an access hole to remove and replace pump, but it is working to some degree. Could it be working but only providing a flow of fuel which is less pressure than required to run?

                              8)Could it be the Fuel Pressure Regulator causing this condition?

                              Thanks for your input.
                              my email address is NOT working!

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