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Overcharging Alternator - car shutdown

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  • #16
    I would test fuel pressure before replacing the pump. I would also suggest dropping the tank, its not that hard. If you want to cut a hole though, I guess its your car after all lol.
    I've Been Probed.

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    • #17
      Fuel pressure test

      I had some clear thought in the morning and will test the fuel pressure. The bolts holding the straps are heavily rusted, and if they snap off, then I have more work ahead of me.

      Thanks,
      my email address is NOT working!

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      • #18
        Have you tried changing the timing some? I had the same issue with my car starting and running for one second then dying after I repaired the wire harness and slammed a new disty in it. I was at a loss cuz I just did so much work and was just like wtf could be wrong now. Turned the disty counter clockwise about a half inch and she fired right up and stayed running. Give it a try. The car gods have to give us probe owners a break every once in awhile.

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        • #19
          J Unit

          I will give that a shot. The original distributor fried from the overcharge and I replaced it and now have good spark. I dialed it in so that the engine cranks the smoothest. May need to adjust more.
          my email address is NOT working!

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          • #20
            Fuel Pressure Testing

            Ok - Ford shop manual states 38-46 psi with key on and engine off - my fuel pressure gauge reads 0 as the pump does not spin up.

            When cranking the engine, it steadily climbs to about 40 psi, but it seems not enough to start the engine. I think I need in the neighborhood of 52 psi to start the engine.

            Any thoughts?
            my email address is NOT working!

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            • #21
              38psi is enough. When cranking it should go to 40psi prety quickly, how long dies it take to climb?
              Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
              Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
              Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

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              • #22
                Fuel Pressure Testing

                When I had an assistant read the gauge when cranking, it only made it to 22 psi max. When I jumped the FP and GND in the diagnostic box, fuel pressure only registered 11 psi. I am just about convinced I need to replace the fuel pump considering that it very well experienced a voltage surge from the overcharged battery issue that originally caused the issues I am seeing.

                Thanks,
                my email address is NOT working!

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                • #23
                  Yeah swap that pump over.
                  Supercharged - 94' PGT: ZE, MS2, W/M Injection, weight reduced, manual steering because weekend race car! mods and pics thread
                  Turbocharged - 06' WRX: 3" exh, ECUTEK ROM, MRT intercooler, VF34 pic
                  Nitrous Oxide - 79' Yamaha QT50 'Yamahopper' 70cc, MLM pipe, VM18 carb, dual stage reeds etc. pic

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Clocking the New Distributor

                    Ok - have a new fuel pump installed and it primes and is pumping fuel into the motor. But car only cranks and did not fire. Found TDC on No. 1 piston and saw that the distributor rotor is pointing to 12 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock where the No. 1 plug terminal is on the cap. So I remove distributor, rotate the rotor 180 degrees, but distributor will not fully seat back into the block. So I refer to my shop manual and it states that "one of the tangs on the shaft is larger than the other and this allows the distributor to be installed in only one position". Does this mean I remove the rotor and clock that to the correct position pointing at No. 1 plug terminal? I am sure I am at TDC on compression stroke on No. 1 cylinder by bumping over the motor with a remote starter, small ball of newspaper pops out of No. 1 hole, then I insert a length of vacuum line in so it hits the piston and I manually turn the motor over until the vacuum line stops rising out of the hole. I have a one-piece aluminum crank pulley and do not see a timing mark. Long story short, i believe I am 180 degrees out on my distributor timing which is keeping the car from starting.

                    Thanks
                    my email address is NOT working!

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                    • #25
                      I think you are confusing TDC on the exhaust stroke with TDC on the compression stroke. The piston goes up and down twice before firing again so when it is at TDC exhaust the distributor would be 180* out. Turn the crank over 1 more time to TDC and the disty should be at 1. 2 turns of the crank is one full cycle of the cams/distributor.

                      I don't know if you have timing belt covers on or not but if you can see the rear pulley, see if the head of the bolt spins with the pulley while you turn the crank by hand (21 mm socket). If not then the pulley only looks like it's turning the rear bank and everything will appear in time and functioning. You've got fuel, should have spark, the parts only really go on 1 way. It's weird though because it ran before.
                      Probe out for Harambe
                      94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                      • #26
                        I second blue's clues above ^^^
                        Success is a measure of determination!
                        Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
                        $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
                        Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
                        Restoration of a legend

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                        • #27
                          180 degrees out

                          Blue - this makes sense. I may be at TDC on exhaust stroke - I will rotate crank one full turn so that distributor engages and give it another shot and make sure rotor is pointing to No 1 plug terminal.

                          Thanks
                          my email address is NOT working!

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                          • #28
                            Update

                            Well - I was going to test for spark again with an assistant and the starter solenoid finally failed after 22 years, not too bad. The plugs are covered with gas and car just sputters a bit. Letting the motor air out as I won't get the solenoid until tomorrow. Since the overcharging alternator was the source cause of this entire adventure and I still have it in the car, I put a test light on what appears to be the power lead and I get no light. I have a replacement, just wanted to make sure the car runs before putting it in. Unless this failed piece may be keeping the car from starting?

                            Any input on this?

                            Thanks,
                            my email address is NOT working!

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                            • #29
                              What's the status of that rear cam pulley?
                              Probe out for Harambe
                              94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                              • #30
                                Update

                                Have not removed timing belt cover - but I can check that.
                                my email address is NOT working!

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