I recently posted up my preliminary installation pics along with some notes and impressions. The following is a complete "how-to" install guide. Overall, the installation was straightforward, some of the tow hook bolts were reluctant to break free, but eventually with the help of a breaker bar, they came loose. The installation probably doesn’t need this in depth of a write-up since it’s really pretty simple, but I like doing write-ups
The premise of the traction bars is to stabilize the lower control arm so it does not pivot on the frame attachment point and allow transient forward movement of the arm upon acceleration and rearward movement upon heavy braking. It basically keeps the contact patch steady to maximize traction while accelerating or braking. In addition, traction bars minimize or eliminate wheel hop upon severe acceleration.
Recent discussion about traction bars
Parts needed:
-Precision Motorsports Online (PMO) Traction Bars from www.precisionmotorsportsonline.com
-anti-seize
-PB Blaster rust penetrant
-scrap cardboard
Tools needed:
-Drill
- 1/2" drill bit (for metal/wood) with 3/8" shank reduction
-ratchets 1/2" and 3/8" drive
-combination box-end/open end wrenches: 10mm, 14mm, 19mm(3/4"), 24mm (optional)
-large adjustable wrench or 24mm(15/16") "crows-foot"
-sockets: 10mm, 14mm, 19mm, 24mm
-1/2" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches
-18" breaker bar 1/2" drive
-steel pipe breaker bar/wrench extension (12")
-wire brush
-plastic or rubber mallet
-tin snips
-floor jack
-jack stands
-ramps
-wheel chocks
-eye protection
Torque specs: (to be determined by PMO)
-24mm bolt: 70 ft-lb
-19mm nut/bolt: 50 ft-lb
Procedure:
-jack the car up onto jack stands, apply emergency brake and chock the rear wheels
Crossbar installation:
-locate both tow hooks. You will see that the splash guard obscures the top most bolt that fastens the hook to the frame
-remove the plastic "screw studs" and bolts as noted in the pictures, then bend back the splash guard.
pic: driver’s side
pic: passenger’s side
-The 14mm bolts will be somewhat difficult to remove but if you use the 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar they come out easily. The passenger side top bolt is space restricted by the windshield washer reservoir. I used a box end 14mm wrench and an extension slipped over the wrench to add leverage. The driver’s side top bolt is obscured by one of the horns. Remove the 10mm bolt that fastens the bracket to the frame.
pic: driver’s side
pic: passenger’s side
-clean the frame surfaces with the wire brush since they will likely be corroded and show some rust. Cleaning the surfaces will aid in installing the cross bar
pic: frame corrosion
-slip the cross bar into place. If you have some difficulty, loosely install all 4 bolts on one side, then drive the other side into position with your plastic or rubber mallet. Fasten all 8 bolts securely once the bar is in place. Before you reinstall the bolts clean them with a wire brush and coat them with anti-seize.
-reinstall the horn bracket
-reinstall all of the splash guard bolts/plastic screws
Lower control arm modification:
-locate the 1/2" hole on the underside of either lower control arm. Just above this hole is a 3/8" hole on the topside of the lower control arm.
pic: passenger’s side lower control arm ½” hole
pic: driver’s side lower control arm ½” hole
-optionally, tape some cardboard scraps on the CV boot to protect it when you are drilling
-insert your 1/2" drill bit into the hole at the bottom. Center the tip of the drill bit in the 3/8" hole.
pic: positioning drill bit
-Drill slowly and apply light pressure only as the drill bit will grab at the sides and may push up too quickly which may damage the CV boot above if you are not careful
pic: drilling complete
-Repeat for the lower control arm on the other side. Modification of the lower control arms is now complete
The premise of the traction bars is to stabilize the lower control arm so it does not pivot on the frame attachment point and allow transient forward movement of the arm upon acceleration and rearward movement upon heavy braking. It basically keeps the contact patch steady to maximize traction while accelerating or braking. In addition, traction bars minimize or eliminate wheel hop upon severe acceleration.
Recent discussion about traction bars
Parts needed:
-Precision Motorsports Online (PMO) Traction Bars from www.precisionmotorsportsonline.com
-anti-seize
-PB Blaster rust penetrant
-scrap cardboard
Tools needed:
-Drill
- 1/2" drill bit (for metal/wood) with 3/8" shank reduction
-ratchets 1/2" and 3/8" drive
-combination box-end/open end wrenches: 10mm, 14mm, 19mm(3/4"), 24mm (optional)
-large adjustable wrench or 24mm(15/16") "crows-foot"
-sockets: 10mm, 14mm, 19mm, 24mm
-1/2" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches
-18" breaker bar 1/2" drive
-steel pipe breaker bar/wrench extension (12")
-wire brush
-plastic or rubber mallet
-tin snips
-floor jack
-jack stands
-ramps
-wheel chocks
-eye protection
Torque specs: (to be determined by PMO)
-24mm bolt: 70 ft-lb
-19mm nut/bolt: 50 ft-lb
Procedure:
-jack the car up onto jack stands, apply emergency brake and chock the rear wheels
Crossbar installation:
-locate both tow hooks. You will see that the splash guard obscures the top most bolt that fastens the hook to the frame
-remove the plastic "screw studs" and bolts as noted in the pictures, then bend back the splash guard.
pic: driver’s side
pic: passenger’s side
-The 14mm bolts will be somewhat difficult to remove but if you use the 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar they come out easily. The passenger side top bolt is space restricted by the windshield washer reservoir. I used a box end 14mm wrench and an extension slipped over the wrench to add leverage. The driver’s side top bolt is obscured by one of the horns. Remove the 10mm bolt that fastens the bracket to the frame.
pic: driver’s side
pic: passenger’s side
-clean the frame surfaces with the wire brush since they will likely be corroded and show some rust. Cleaning the surfaces will aid in installing the cross bar
pic: frame corrosion
-slip the cross bar into place. If you have some difficulty, loosely install all 4 bolts on one side, then drive the other side into position with your plastic or rubber mallet. Fasten all 8 bolts securely once the bar is in place. Before you reinstall the bolts clean them with a wire brush and coat them with anti-seize.
-reinstall the horn bracket
-reinstall all of the splash guard bolts/plastic screws
Lower control arm modification:
-locate the 1/2" hole on the underside of either lower control arm. Just above this hole is a 3/8" hole on the topside of the lower control arm.
pic: passenger’s side lower control arm ½” hole
pic: driver’s side lower control arm ½” hole
-optionally, tape some cardboard scraps on the CV boot to protect it when you are drilling
-insert your 1/2" drill bit into the hole at the bottom. Center the tip of the drill bit in the 3/8" hole.
pic: positioning drill bit
-Drill slowly and apply light pressure only as the drill bit will grab at the sides and may push up too quickly which may damage the CV boot above if you are not careful
pic: drilling complete
-Repeat for the lower control arm on the other side. Modification of the lower control arms is now complete
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