klze or klde

[mazdapowered93]

IIRC the highest NA HP a KL has ever put down was ~210 and to give you an idea of how modded that probe was it rev'd to 11k, a P&P, high compression stroker KL will not net over 200WHP.

The highest i know is a guy(leo323) putting down 231 whp with a NA kl-ze with ITB,megasquirt..................

and a friend of mikeseli putting down 224 whp with special cams,modified intake,custom header............

so is possible but is hard and you need to get custom part because we have just a few company that make part for the Probe GT and the part they make some company is not the best sometime compared a other cars market.

[projexneon]

i didnt kno they had stroker kit

[BrokenJohnny]

This thread is dumb from the beginning. I doubt you will but if you plan on ripping the motor apart and going custom... it really doesnt matter what you get, just get a millenia motor so you can have the square ported heads atleast, but the valve retainers are SHIT on anything with the square ported heads. (ZE heads).. They will straight break at an idle.

Just turbo the damn thing and spend 600 bucks on a megasquirt. why not get 350 hp instead of 250hp, and actually add some torque.

PS: Theyre is a search button... I bet for every new topic theres at least 5 out there that will answer your question... Just search, it sounds like its harder, but then you dont have to wait for an answer thats probably just going to be someone flaming anyways. Just a little .02 on my part.

Now, for the polite version:

I would suggest going with the KLDE. In fact, we had this discussion on the MX6 forums a few days ago. The main difference between the ZE and the DE are different cams, higher compression ratio, and better flowing intake manifold.

Now, since you plan on doing a whole engine rebuild, and will be replacing most of those anyways, you might as well save money by buying a KLDE. Buying a ZE and swapping out all the parts anyways would be wasteful, and impractical.

You could get a KLDE, stroke it, replace the pistons and rods, have higher compression, and just swap the DE manifold with a ZE and have your heads port matched. It would still be cheaper and more practical in the long run than doing that with the ZE.



I don't know what "pile_of_rd1" is talking about regarding the millenia motor and square ported heads, and crappy valve retainers. That might very well be true, but this is the first I have every heard of it. I would not recommend the millenia motor, because the intake manifold sometimes has clearance issues with the hood. Plus, the regular ZE manifold looks a lot nicer. It has the V6 logo across it, and looks "cleaner" than the millenia.

I understand your desire to go all motor. I myself tend to lean in that direction. But you really can't beat the power-per-dollar if a well set up turbo.

Now, if you stroked your engine, AND boosted...well, that would be insane. But you'd start having some serious traction issues because the car is front wheel drive. Traction bars would almost be a must.

But remember, horsepower DOES NOT equal speed! Speed is the result of horsepower, torque, drive train, transmission, traction, suspension, torsion, temperature, weight, and aerodynamics. Just because your car has 400 wheel horsepower does not mean it will win in a race against a car with 200 wheel horsepower.

But really, unless you are dead set on going "all-motor", I highly recommend going turbo. What you are talking about will cost thousands of dollars for parts and labor, and will yield at most roughly 100 HP. For nearly half the price, you could have a built engine, run high boost, and literally be able to have as much power as you want. With forged rods and pistons, and high boost, you could make 300-400 horse at the wheels!

The downside? Boosted engines tend to be less reliable than NA engines. But this is a point which can be HIGHLY debated.

Really, as long as you don't cheap out on anything, have it all properly installed, and are thorough with the tuning, (and don't drive like an idiot), you'll be fine either way, NA or turbo.

Now, if you are actually serious about doing all this to your motor, you obviously have a lot of money. And there is one thing I've always wanted to see on a probe/mx6: TRUE dual exhaust. I mean, separate pipes for each exhaust manifold, running all the way to the back.

People say it can't be done. But I bet if you kept your diameter size down, and routed both pipes together, having their bends match each other perfectly, it might be possible!

As far as individual throttle bodies go, don't waste your time or money, Unless you're rich. Just get yours bored out to 65mm, or perhaps 67mm.

I hope this helps.



Johnny