Originally posted by rammstein
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$20 Ignitor Replacement/upgrade
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93 gt
95 tbird sc
2010 focus ses
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Originally posted by rammsteinI did the ignitor module thingy and..
the unit is getting pretty hot is that normal.? I think A fan will solve this
but I mounted it on a big plate from aluminium and still getting hot (I burned my finger) is this normal or should I get a fan ?
engine is running fine for the 20min test ride
If you use an HEI specific coil, it will run hot.
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Ok pride is on the shelf. I have read just about all 10 pages of posts and from the best that i can tell i have run accross something no 1 else has. I installed the HEI to no avail. Car wouldn't start. Checked for spark w/ a spark tester, and no spark. Then i got out my multimeter to check voltages as described. The B tower checked out just fine. The first time i checked the C tower it was fine. I then did the jumper cable from G to B. I was working on my own and wanted to make sure i could duplicate the proper result just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. I undid the jumper and wasn't getting a reading from the C tower. I Moved the multimeter prongs around a little and could momentarily get the 12 volt reading. Now I cant get the C tower to get and volt reading whatsoever no matter where the prongs are.
First i thought, well I just learned to sotter for this mod, maybe i did that wrong. I turned the multimeter to the OHM test and tested from the point where the metal prongs are inside the 3 pin distributor plug to the C tower and that was perfect. That eliminates a potential poor wire/sotter.
The inconsistancy with the mulitmeter reading is killing me. The only thing that i could think of would be the remains from the metal wiring harness that I removed from the inside of the disty. When i took that part out, I undid the screw and pulled it out. For a lack of a better description I pulled out the piece from some sort of spade connector holding it on closer to the 3 pin connector. It then goes further up into the 3 pin harness. I couldn't get it out from up that far. maybe it didn't try hard enought but i just cut it off w/ like 1/4 of an inch hanging down. I couldn't tell from the pics if that part was completely removed or not. Could that piece be my potential problem. I dont think it could because the main part where contact would be made is gone.
I guess this all would point to the coil having been my problem from the begining and not the ignitor. Unfortunately i couldn't have found this out untill after i did all this work and went through it all again and again to make sure i didnt' mess up. I dont have a problem putting a new coil in. If i could do the HEI mod, I could do the coil and it is still cheaper than a new disty. If any 1 could point out another possible point of error I would appreciate it. If u guys cant see anything else to do then i guess its on to the coil mod and ill continue w/ my frustration there.
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Hi bigt50, I think you need that spade connector on there still with the internal coil just have to remove it behind, cause with the extenal coil that middle wire is still hooked up to the negative coil terminal for the tach. I really played around with my disty alot here for *****s and giggles, but you can take a crimp on type spade connector strip the insulation trim it up a bit and solder it to the proper terminal. Another thing to take note of when you put the interupter wheels back on is that the bump on the inner one is lined up with the hole on the outer, I had the inner one move on me the first time I tried to get it back together.93 gt
95 tbird sc
2010 focus ses
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YaWhatever thx for the tip I went and got some more spades tonight. I will give that all a shot in the AM.
Lets say i put that back on everything is wired properly. Is a faulty coil the only possible problem with the inconsistent multimeter readings?
Also I know that this mod hasn't been around for that long, but are there any reliability issues with all of these wires and brackets stuffed all over the place? I think i have my dad willing to put up the $$ for a new disty from trussville mazda with the upgrade or whatever is different. Is this something worth my time and effort to do. I just want to have my car make it from FL to TN a couple times a year for school.
Thx in advance for all and any help.
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BigT if your having problems with it after you get that spande connector back on. leave the strap to that connector off though.
Measure and let us know what you get.
1. between G and W you should get a pulse or some voltage, G is the ecu trigger, a cheap multimeter may not be able to read a good pulse so it may be around something like a constant ~2.5 Volts
2. between B and W you should see voltage here, Im not to sure if it will always be on with the car or only when cranking though but under one of these conditions there should be voltage. B is the + side of the coil and should be live the hei opens up the - side of the coil on C
3. between B and C this is across the coil terminals, if 1 and 2 check out with voltage, I'd take the hei module back to the store for them to test or to get a new one.
Reliability wise they should be last a while but you can always carry a spare for $2093 gt
95 tbird sc
2010 focus ses
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it was me.don`t remove the spade connector , just the copper strip to the screw and keep the wires short and solder them. If you done right You can mount it on a 1.2 mil alu. strip and have no problem with over heating (2 month now )CAI,borla,rbs,64 TB,sts,headers,JJ testpipe,Nx
daily driven and HEI module
I`m learning here!
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Joe Bialy for president!
I have been reading this thread since it started. My coil on my 95GT crapped out in May (the coil, not the ignitor). So, I did this mod with a Pertronix HEI module, MSD blaster SS coil, MSD Wire, and MSD tower.
I bought a new cap and rotor. Tip: The Beck Arnley parts were much cheaper than Borg Warner and holding the caps side by side, they were identical.
SO, I mounted the coil wire tower on the cap, modified the wiring harnesses to the disty (making the wiring oh so pretty), and mounted the module and coil to a 3x3x7" piece of 1/4" aluminum angle iron (hoping for max heat dissipation), and mounted that to the frame just below the battery tray.
I wish I had taken pics before I put the battery back in.
Well, it started on the first turn of the key and ran real nice. Yeah!
Problem is, the car started to cough and sputter under load (in heavy Friday afternoon traffic) just two days after the new install.
Well, I replaced the plug wires and the problem hasn't returned. As far as I can figure, the hotter new coil sent the already old plug wires to their grave. So far so good. The real test will be the multiple hour drive to "Medford Smack Down cuatro" on Thursday. Better beleive I'm taking an extra disty, module, wires and more.
Anyway, I just wanted to post a little success story and offer some words of encouragement. Good luck ya'll. I'll take pics next time I pull the battery out.Last edited by Chris; June 14, 2004, 09:42 PM.
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Originally posted by ChrisJoe Bialy for president!
I have been reading this thread since it started. My coil on my 95GT crapped out in May (the coil, not the ignitor). So, I did this mod with a Pertronix HEI module, MSD blaster SS coil, MSD Wire, and MSD tower.
I bought a new cap and rotor. Tip: The Beck Arnley parts were much cheaper than Borg Warner and holding the caps side by side, they were identical.
SO, I mounted the coil wire tower on the cap, modified the wiring harnesses to the disty (making the wiring oh so pretty), and mounted the module and coil to a 3x3x7" piece of 1/4" aluminum angle iron (hoping for max heat dissipation), and mounted that to the frame just below the battery tray.
I wish I had taken pics before I put the battery back in.
When modding your cap, make sure you cut the internal bridge, even if your internal coil no longer works.Chrome wheeled, fuel injected, and steppin out over the line
PRD - The original Ford Probe Aftermarket, THANK YOU FOR THE GOOD RUN
1999-2013 : 14 Years of supporting the Probe community
1997 Ford Probe GTS Turbo | 2000 Jaguar XJ8 | 1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer | 1930 Model A Hotrod | 2005 VW Touareg V8
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Originally posted by ProbesportWhen modding your cap, make sure you cut the internal bridge, even if your internal coil no longer works.
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i bought a DR-100 last night because of my stupid stock ignitor is on it's way out and would not function correctly with megasquirt's ignition.
1. HOLY SHIT THESE THINGS GET HOT!
2. it runs my car flawlessly
3. my tach is now dead on..... (confirmed by megasquirt)
4. what is the differences between... say... the dr100 and the dr124?? the guy at murray's told me that the dr100 is only for canadian import's. (at least on 83 caprices)1996 Boysenberry Probe GT MTXtreme
2014 Fusion SE MTXtreme
2005 Mountaineer Premier
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