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Crank key ate it, timing belt shredded

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  • Crank key ate it, timing belt shredded

    Is there any particular type of shop I should be looking for to get a new key made up? Or other ideas. Pulley looks fine, there doesn't appear to be any damage to anything else. I knew something was really wrong when the pulley felt loose after the slightest bit of loosening the bolt. Also the belt angling into the head.
    Probe out for Harambe
    94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

  • #2
    Bummer. Junkyard maybe?
    95 Probe GT -- 24 Hours of LeMons race car!
    Our teams Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/burntrubbersoulracing

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    • #3
      Make sure you didn't **** up the key in the crank. Otherwise you're going to be looking for a new one.

      If its just the key only - hit up a JY

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      • #4
        Key is broken off in the timing sprocket itself, pulley and crank are damaged. I'm going to have to make something myself to jam in there, after, using a puller on the sprocket.
        Probe out for Harambe
        94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

        Comment


        • #5
          Little update. The timing part of the key way for the sprocket should be fine. Still haven't pulled that yet. But the key fractured a little bit into the sprocket.

          The damaged part of the crank is only under the accessory drive pulley. So that part won't be off or cause out of time. I have a key from another KL already removed but, I'm not going to use it. I measured it. 4.96mm x 5.18mm (for anyone that needs that in the future. I'm going to cut a new key myself from a bolt or something. I'm going to start way oversized and work it down til it's close and hammer it in. Trimming the length at the end.

          As to the cause of the problem in the first place, so this doesn't happen to you. My idle quality has been messed up for awhile, causing a chugging on deceleration. When you consider all of the accessories spinning that chugging causes a back and forth motion and stress on the pulley and key. Also over a year ago my PS pump locked up and destroyed it's belt, that may have done some damage. I also have some wear on the points the CPS picks up on, and I'm not sure if the loose crank pulley was causing my misfire, it was only a misfire on cyl. number 1 according to the ECU, with good plugs, wires, cap, rotor.

          Basically, if you have a problem, don't just send it, even if you really don't think it's that big of a problem.

          I would like to get some opinions for a plan B just in case. I have a usable DE bottom end here, another DE I can pull a crank from. I want to keep and use the ZE pistons. If I had to swap the crank... I'd need crank bearings, rod bearings and I'd have to get it all balanced? More things? Less? Overkill, I won't need to rebalance. Get some KJ rods for the heck of it?
          Probe out for Harambe
          94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

          Comment


          • #6
            You should use only a regular woodruff key to replace the one that broke. That key must be made of a softer metal than the other items. Its purpose is to shear off instead of something else breaking (to protect your crankshaft & pumps). If the key is made of a harder metal than required, you will get major damage to everything in the event of a rotating assembly malfunction.

            Also, hammering the key will flare/mushroom it out, resulting in a no-fit situation for the timing sprocket. I must ask that you resist the urge to do that.
            DRIVE IT LIKE YOU BUILT IT!!
            94 Probe GT..no engine!

            96 Probe GT now with full-forged KLZE ..8psi untuned and buck wildCarDomain page

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            • #7
              Really need pix to comment on this situation correctly...9 out of 10 times it's crank or used motor..js
              94 PGT
              [96 PGT FuLL OBD2 WiRe HaRNeSS] ]KL31 SHoRT BLoCK & CaMS] [KL1C MaF SWap] [CuRVe NeCK MaNiFoLD] [KL68 TB] [Hei & MSD BLaSTeR 2] [Cai] [SS HeaDeRS] [STS] [R&R PoLY F&R MouNT & SHiFTeR iNSeRTS] [STaGe 2 CLuTCH] [FiDaNZa FLYWHeeL] [eGR DeLeTe] [FuLL a/C DeLeTe] [CoiLoVeRS] [RX8 WHeeLS oN 225/45/18]

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              • #8
                I kind of figured as much but I do appreciate the initial thought being reinforced. The crank has been damaged a little bit, again only where the crank pulley goes, the timing sprocket key area is fine. My fear is that the area where the key broke will be a problem and will cause a new key to break again. I figure my best chance is use a softer metal like you suggested, hammer it in with the timing sprocket and with extra material on the key that can be hammered to fit the shape smashed into the crank with some small body hammers. I'm considering using some JB, weld a very small amount, to absolutely make sure there is less space for movement. I mean sheeeit some people fix cracked heads with the stuff, right?
                Probe out for Harambe
                94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                • #9
                  xrp861 unfortunately the weather sucks right now. I'll take a picture when I do finally get around to looking at the car again. Sourcing a new (HA!) crank isn't a problem, I have 2, both inside of DE bottom ends. 1 is outside in my white car, pistons seized from sitting with no heads, maybe I can pull it, crank should be ok in there. The other is in the garage spinning but I kind of wanted to put that one in the white car. Plus I've never swapped a crank before and I don't know what I'm doing with the crank and rod bearings.
                  Probe out for Harambe
                  94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    this stuff sucks. I just replaced one on my car and turns out i had the crankwalk starting which is likely responsible for the woodruff key breaking
                    it is better to be a smart fella than a fart smella

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                    • #11
                      9 out of 10 you need a crank which means used motor time.
                      Last edited by xrp861; November 30, 2017, 05:00 AM.
                      94 PGT
                      [96 PGT FuLL OBD2 WiRe HaRNeSS] ]KL31 SHoRT BLoCK & CaMS] [KL1C MaF SWap] [CuRVe NeCK MaNiFoLD] [KL68 TB] [Hei & MSD BLaSTeR 2] [Cai] [SS HeaDeRS] [STS] [R&R PoLY F&R MouNT & SHiFTeR iNSeRTS] [STaGe 2 CLuTCH] [FiDaNZa FLYWHeeL] [eGR DeLeTe] [FuLL a/C DeLeTe] [CoiLoVeRS] [RX8 WHeeLS oN 225/45/18]

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                      • #12
                        Mr Man what did you do about the crankwalk? Were there other signs? Mine started pulling the timing belt in to the block. But it was more at the top. I just assumed my problems were from belts and oil leaks.
                        Probe out for Harambe
                        94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Okay so here's another little update. I'm going to pull the engine and see if I can get a shop to weld fill the ding in the keyway, then grind it back and start with a fresh woodruff key and pulley. Hopefully they can work with the crank still in the block, there should be enough room. For now, putting together a DE with ZE heads and intake.
                          Probe out for Harambe
                          94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                          • #14
                            You're aware just installing a jy motor or crank is a way cheaper option right? You'd need the crank ground on od and key way ground in. Well over cost of new crank or Jy motor.

                            ---------- Post added at 11:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:44 PM ----------

                            That's not just something you can weld and grind on a bench grinder or with a dremel.
                            Last edited by xrp861; December 16, 2017, 09:46 PM.
                            94 PGT
                            [96 PGT FuLL OBD2 WiRe HaRNeSS] ]KL31 SHoRT BLoCK & CaMS] [KL1C MaF SWap] [CuRVe NeCK MaNiFoLD] [KL68 TB] [Hei & MSD BLaSTeR 2] [Cai] [SS HeaDeRS] [STS] [R&R PoLY F&R MouNT & SHiFTeR iNSeRTS] [STaGe 2 CLuTCH] [FiDaNZa FLYWHeeL] [eGR DeLeTe] [FuLL a/C DeLeTe] [CoiLoVeRS] [RX8 WHeeLS oN 225/45/18]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              ZE pistons. I could use a crank I have, but then I'd have to get it balanced, which means taking it all apart. This might be cheaper. I just have to bring the engine in, let the welder fill it then grind it back myself, very carefully. I'm not having the whole keyway filled and reground.
                              Probe out for Harambe
                              94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

                              Comment

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