Has anyone confirmed that this works? I have a 95pgt and i'm ready to cut/connect the wires as we speak. The 95 disty's 6pin connector has 5 wires though, with one connector not in use.
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Cheap, cheap, cheap: $18 HEI ignitor as backup to STOCK ignitor, volunteers needed :)
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for those skilled in electronics who want to look at changing the existing ignitor IGBT transistor and use an external coil..in the disty... here is the work ive done regarding the ignition so far..
info on how to source one here..
http://www.incony.org/KLZEWiki/pwp_1...Page&iPage=HEI
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HELP THE CAR WON't Start CKP & CID
i messed up this mod. I had two wires crossed when i cranked it the first time. I think I may have messed up something now. I returned everything back to stock and now I have CKP & CID error codes. where is the crank-ID sensor? Is it part of the ICM inside the distributor? I cant get spark even though I returned everything back to normal. The 2.5l 94probe was running fine before I did the HEI mod. All the fuses are good. How do I fix the CKP & CID so I can get running again? Please help?Last edited by fe2cruz; February 21, 2005, 06:34 PM.
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Originally posted by EloMWhy are you cutting the wire on pin 5? I didn't. The guy that originally made this mod didn't, why do you need to?
Well, in some situation it is possible to leave (Pin 5), but that depends of the condition of transistor. If transisor is burned in way that his impedance is infinite than you don't have to cut (Pin 5). If transistor is shorted and that way distroyed, than you can not use this scenario. Also in case that distributor works fine before this modification, if you don't cut (Pin 5) you risk your good transistor inside distributor, because I'm not sure what voltage will be in that case between base and emiter (In that case stock transistor and HEI work in paralel). It is possible that even in that case everything would work fine, and in that case both transistors, internal stock, and external switch in HEI would work together, but that is something that needs testing and more money than I have, because as I sad you risk burning good stock transistor and destroying stock distributor.
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Simplest HEI-STOCK replacement for testing
Well, simplest solution, no need for opening distributor or cuting wires, just splice them.
http://img156.exs.cx/img156/5402/heisimplest2gu.jpg
Same as above, but now you can switch between stock ignition or HEI ignition with simple and inexpensive switch.
http://img25.exs.cx/img25/4879/heisimplestswitch5ur.jpg
Please this schematic is for Ford Probe GT 1993 and 1994.
Please post results here, and your experience which ignitor works better stock or HEI. Now is possible to compare them, just by simple switching between them.Last edited by kuki; April 8, 2005, 02:40 PM.
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Originally posted by eazypic1994 pgt
is this the correct diagram I'll need ?
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/8545/HEI.jpg
Have others tried this way of doing it ?
Thanks
Yes, jp94GT tried latest one, you can check his site with lot of pictures http://www.pagel.net/Probe
And please post your experience, which one worked better for you. My advice is that you start with first one , because you don't have to cut wires, just splice them. If it is not working, it means that ignitor is probably shorted, and in that case cut those wires to disable stock ignitor. In that case use second schematic.
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Originally posted by fe2cruzi messed up this mod. I had two wires crossed when i cranked it the first time. I think I may have messed up something now. I returned everything back to stock and now I have CKP & CID error codes. where is the crank-ID sensor? Is it part of the ICM inside the distributor? I cant get spark even though I returned everything back to normal. The 2.5l 94probe was running fine before I did the HEI mod. All the fuses are good. How do I fix the CKP & CID so I can get running again? Please help?
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Originally posted by kukiWhat wires did you crossed? Picture or schematic would be helpfull? It is difficult to answer question without more data.
I fried the CPK1 inside the stock disty
So I replaced it with cheap reman and it ran great for 2 weeks
then it completely died, took my alternator with it
I even replaced both axles because my boots were leaking
I had to crack through afrozen bastard of a nut too!
So the only thing left is an O-rings inside the tranny
that is making my shift-rod leak.
Well now that everything except the leaky tranny
is replaced & running I have:
detonation &/or pistron slap &/or valve spring failure
on cylinder #4
The car has really kicked my ass this time
I'm gonna work on my bike instead
i'll come back to this probe again in a few months
after i can get some riding time out of a more
reliable method of transportation
I love probes and think they are very reliable cars
this one just doesn't like me very much
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Originally posted by fe2cruzI figured it out
I fried the CPK1 inside the stock disty
So I replaced it with cheap reman and it ran great for 2 weeks
then it completely died, took my alternator with it
I even replaced both axles because my boots were leaking
I had to crack through afrozen bastard of a nut too!
So the only thing left is an O-rings inside the tranny
that is making my shift-rod leak.
Well now that everything except the leaky tranny
is replaced & running I have:
detonation &/or pistron slap &/or valve spring failure
on cylinder #4
The car has really kicked my ass this time
I'm gonna work on my bike instead
i'll come back to this probe again in a few months
after i can get some riding time out of a more
reliable method of transportation
I love probes and think they are very reliable cars
this one just doesn't like me very much
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