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  • #16
    Not much to add, but I had somewhat similar problems a couple years ago. I was getting a CPS code after a no-start problem, replaced it, and still had the code and no start. Fuel was good, no spark. Switched out the disty, no change. Replaced the ECU, and the car started, CPS code was gone, but then got new codes for FPRS and temp sensor. Then I put the old ECU back in and it still started!

    Next day it wouldn't start, and the CPS code was back. Put the new ECU back in and it started, CPS code gone, FPRS and temp codes back. Replaced FPRS and temp sensor, and cleared those codes. I also tried to clean as many grounds as I could. The car has been starting fine since then ( it's a stock race car so I only run it a dozen times a year ), but I never really solved the problem and fear it may come back at any time.

    These cars can be finicky. Good luck with your issue.
    Last edited by majo8; January 11, 2018, 09:21 PM.
    95 Probe GT -- 24 Hours of LeMons race car!
    Our teams Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/burntrubbersoulracing

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    • #17
      Found this post

      https://forums.probetalk.com/showthr...+won%27t+crank

      Might be worth reading over since its related to the crank sensor wiring
      1995 Probe GT - N2O Ingested, CM 3, fidanza, headers, exhaust, CAI, MS, kenwood sound
      2010 Ram 1500 4x4 - Daily Driver
      99 Mustang V6 stock inherited not sure what the plan is

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Level 9 View Post
        Found this post

        https://forums.probetalk.com/showthr...+won%27t+crank

        Might be worth reading over since its related to the crank sensor wiring
        Thanks. I think my problem is bit different though. Today I went for small drive and let the engine get to operating temp. At one point the rpm's went up and down and I was afraid it would stall again. Fortunately I got home.

        -when engine is cold i can drive fine
        -when engine gets to normal operating temperature, the problems come.

        My current ideas: ECT sensor, i changed this one some years ago and had to cut the cable en reattach. Its not really attached they way I would like, maybe I should solder it?

        I hear a small hissing in the engine compartment, maybe a crack in manifold or something? Not sure..

        any input is appreciated
        Thx, Mike
        Kick down and smile!
        Ford Probe 1994 2,5L v6 KLZE J-Spec (kl36ecu je50 VAF) Black, Cold air induction kit, Oil catch can protege 5,

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        • #19
          As for the wiring I always solder and heat shrink wiring. It is the only way to wire in my opinion. If you hear a hissing sound I would investigate that as well. Had the intake ever been removed? Still showing no codes? Is code 46 showing up due to a bad solenoid or a bad vac line leading to the solenoid?

          Be sure ect wiring is good
          Check for vac leaks
          Check for codes again after the car has repeated the problem
          1995 Probe GT - N2O Ingested, CM 3, fidanza, headers, exhaust, CAI, MS, kenwood sound
          2010 Ram 1500 4x4 - Daily Driver
          99 Mustang V6 stock inherited not sure what the plan is

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          • #20
            My bad coil had a similar symptoms. It also got hot quicker. I even took off my cat to see if it was clogged and put it back on. All kinds of crazy, chasing my ass all over the car shit for a failing coil. I was running a 95 disty. Next time I'm just replacing the coil before anything else and patching in my GM ignitor, (already installed,) if the coil doesn't do it. It is bad troubleshooting to just replace parts. Long term fix, MAF swap so you can easily run a 95 distributor. The 95 doesn't have the really expensive internal bs for the cam sensor, so if you have a new coil, and an external ignitor to test with you can confirm it's good. Always buy new internal parts if you can. A parts store disty may not have new internals, may be patched or repaired. Our distributors are just always failing anyway, If it isn't your problem, you will have a spare for when it does fail.
            Probe out for Harambe
            94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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            • #21
              i've been testing some things with the car:
              distri seems fine, cleaned up air intake etc.
              All went ok for a week and the problem didn't occur until today.
              Only difference is that I added a some fuel to the tank today. I drove away from a parking when i went for groceries and i felt my steering suddenly being heavy and my rpm's falling down. Couldn't start for a min and suddenly it worked. Im a bit confused again..lol
              Kick down and smile!
              Ford Probe 1994 2,5L v6 KLZE J-Spec (kl36ecu je50 VAF) Black, Cold air induction kit, Oil catch can protege 5,

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              • #22
                I still think you should check your fuel pump. Next time it dies and won't start, jump the pins in the diagnostics box to activate the fuel pump and see if you can hear it run.

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                • #23
                  I've had the random cutout thing before, started up again after cooling down for a few seconds. It was the distributor, my first re-man distributor in fact, days after install. I've had the "it runs fine on start up, gets worse as it warms up." It was the distributor. Electrical gremlins, overheating which led to a blown lower cap tank, extra raspiness to the exhaust, word on the street is 93/94 distributors are at fault for the 07 financial collapse and job market as well.

                  On the fuel side, I've only stressed my fuel pump once in 9 years with this car, running it out of fuel. It slowly ran out of fuel over several months working on it and when I finally was taking it to the gas station it ran out. FML right!?! I went got some fuel in a can and it wouldn't start, sure enough popped the fuse. Replaced the fuse and she started right up. Still running on the same fuel pump now, no sign of weakness to it, may even be the original pump. I'm thinking if it was fuel the problem would be worse, there'd be extra cranking maybe a blown fuse. Test for fuel pressure with a tester from the parts store, be sure to get your deposit back on the tools you will need it for a new distributor or parts to the distributor, also replace the filter if it hasn't been changed in awhile.

                  If the hissing sound were a coolant or vacuum leak the car wouldn't shut off, you'd just have idle issues. What about your IAC valve, is it clogged with oil from the catch can incident? Lookup proper cleaning procedures for that the wrong cleaner can ruin the valve.
                  Probe out for Harambe
                  94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                  • #24
                    I've had GM cars around when it wouldn't start you could kick the tank and it would run again a short bit. At least get it to the house where I could repair them. After the car is off you can turn the key to the on position but not start it and you should be able to hear the pump run for 3 seconds. It should be pretty easy to hear. Next time check that out, when my pump failed it died in my driveway luckily. The steering got tight due to the rpm dropping and not spinning the power steering pump.

                    What codes are currently showing now?

                    Even my 95 disty was a pos. I recently just came across the milk crate that had 3 old ones in it. I wouldn't rule it out. Since I have MS I will be ditching the damn thing as soon as it even thinks about giving me any more crap and go to distributorless.
                    Last edited by Level 9; January 27, 2018, 01:33 PM.
                    1995 Probe GT - N2O Ingested, CM 3, fidanza, headers, exhaust, CAI, MS, kenwood sound
                    2010 Ram 1500 4x4 - Daily Driver
                    99 Mustang V6 stock inherited not sure what the plan is

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                    • #25
                      thanks for the input guys.
                      I tested distributor by driving, and lower rpm to 1000 rpm and shift gear to 5 and floor it.. if you have a bad distri, you would notice this for sure.
                      mine just gently picked up speed without stuttering.

                      I checked codes today and guess what, new codes showed up.
                      I got codes:
                      2
                      24
                      69
                      My gut says its 69 who causes this since the connector is a bit flimsy attached..
                      But I'm still guessing..
                      Kick down and smile!
                      Ford Probe 1994 2,5L v6 KLZE J-Spec (kl36ecu je50 VAF) Black, Cold air induction kit, Oil catch can protege 5,

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                      • #26
                        Looks like something is definitely going on with the ect sensor is wiring somewhere. I believe the 93 had two sensors, maybe the 94 did as well? This has to be verified for I own a 95 and cannot say for sure. Think you are close to the problem. I would correct that o2 sensor as well. I recently worked on a focus that ran like complete butt because of a faulty o2 sensor.

                        The ect sensor you may have to get a hold of another coupler with a new lead if it's messed up at the connector. It's hard to say for sure without the car in front of me but I would correct those two problems then nice forward from there.
                        1995 Probe GT - N2O Ingested, CM 3, fidanza, headers, exhaust, CAI, MS, kenwood sound
                        2010 Ram 1500 4x4 - Daily Driver
                        99 Mustang V6 stock inherited not sure what the plan is

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I think the 2 ECTs was 93 only (not including the temp sender for the dash.) Been awhile since I looked at the year - year differences. So far as wire repair goes a gas soldering iron is great to have around. Homeless Despot has a butane combination torch/soldering iron for $20-30. That, solder, a can of butane, heat shrink, wire, and electrical tape are good to have around, then you can fix things like this in a few minutes and resume testing. I hate extension cords and the wire hanging off the end soldering. Youtube a how to or 2 for soldering make a shopping list.
                          Probe out for Harambe
                          94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                          • #28
                            I had a an intermittent start/run problem with my 1993 PGT. Sometimes it would start and run fine and others it would cut off while driving or struggle and sputter. I swapped in a lot of parts trying to trouble shoot the issue(fuel rail, injectors, FPR, fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, ecu, ECT sensor, distributor, ect...) I didn't believe it was the fuel pump because the fuel pump was a new walbro with only a few thousand miles on it(but the car had been sitting for a few years). Plus i could hear the fuel pump come on when I turned the key. I finally bought a fuel pressure tester kit for 40 on amazon. It was a great investment as it has helped me to fix many cars. It turns out it was a fuel problem. The fuel pressure would go from low to zero intermittently. Why? Well the fuel pump was still good, but the little 2 inch hose on the fuel pump in the gas tank had rotted from sitting and that was casing the fuel pressure to drop. I just went ahead and put a whole new Walbro fuel pump and hoses in the tank because dropping the tank was such a hassle. I just replaced it all to keep from having to do it again in the future. Test your fuel pressure. Trust the Fuel pressure kit is great to have around.

                            ---------- Post added at 12:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 PM ----------

                            I also had a start/run problem with my 95 pgt and it turned out to be the distributor was failing. Car would cut off when the engine got warm. Replaced it and that fixed the problem.
                            93 PGT- street/track build KLZE, All Go no show! Cracked block repairs in progress.
                            95 PGT- Daily Driver KLDE, body kit, 18in rims, cai, dual exhaust, plugs and wires.
                            96 PGT- Turbo Project KLZE, will be both Show AND GO!
                            1998 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD Street/Strip project. if you wanna know whats under the hood come and find out!

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                            • #29
                              Update

                              Few weeks ago I soldered the ECT sensor connections and it was really needed to. The wires in the harnas were disintegrated and probably shorted now and then. After the repair I didn't have any real stalls but there are still some issues.
                              Fluctuating RPM now and then when driving.
                              Only this weekend it went a bit more bad. It was cold and icy. I started car with heater on and the car hardly became warm which is new since my probe gets warm in few min. I drove off and 30 sec later rpm's went up and down car was shuttering but I managed to get it under control and engine didn't stall..

                              I got this idea in my head that the thermostat maybe wasn't good.(didnt test this yet since I dont know how..lol)

                              Today I checked codes and it shows 02, which suggest Crankshaft Position Sensor #2 (CKP2) (lower one right?) Is a bit odd that this comes back all the time since this sensor is the one I replaced (that's not the one in the distributor )

                              Hope this information gives anyone some more clues..


                              ps: I went down my purchase bills of my probe parts..(long list..lol) and I saw I replaced the distributor in 2011 with a new one.

                              Thanks again
                              Mike
                              Last edited by MightyMike; February 18, 2018, 09:14 AM.
                              Kick down and smile!
                              Ford Probe 1994 2,5L v6 KLZE J-Spec (kl36ecu je50 VAF) Black, Cold air induction kit, Oil catch can protege 5,

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