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  • #46
    Maybe this is the explanation you are looking for..

    The reason why you can not switch gears with the engine running is because: as long as the clutch throwout (release) bearing is gone bad, the clutch pressure plate can not disengage the transmission input shaft from spinning. The bearing can get collapsed (become too short), sheared-down, or lock up when damaged. If the transmission input shaft rotation is not stopped, the brass synchronizer gears will not properly mesh together when 1-5 gear switching is attempted. If the synchros don't mesh, the gears dont engage. They would instead grind and possibly shear teeth off if forced.
    If the bearing is good, (assuming all the hydraulic components are in good order) then when the pedal is depressed, the throw out bearing can do the job of taking up the required distance to push that pressure plate in far enough to disengage the clutch friction disk; effectively stopping or reducing rotational input from the engine. Once the transmission is "disconnected" from the engine's rotation, the synchronizer gears will properly mesh and allow your main 1-5 gear set to switch seamlessly.

    The squealing "metal-on-metal" sound commonly heard from a bad clutch throw out bearing is caused by the steel ball/needle bearings within the bearing housing becoming stuck and no longer able to roll. The housing around the inner ball bearings becomes deformed under this enormous heat and friction of being stuck. Once the seized bearing assembly is projected inward toward the pressure plate, instead of gliding easily and supporting the pressure plate levers, it no longer spins freely and will just eat away at those spring lever fingers ( and SQUEEEAAL)
    Smoke can also develop from this particular metal grinding or from the clutch friction disk being partially engaged against the pressure plate, or a combination of both. Let's hope the smoke isn't coming from the operator's ears! One must then keep their cool and extract the transmission for moderate servicing of the clutch system and maybe the axle output seals.

    I hope this is informative and enlightening.
    Last edited by MSDKLZE; October 3, 2017, 11:55 AM.
    DRIVE IT LIKE YOU BUILT IT!!
    94 Probe GT..no engine!

    96 Probe GT now with full-forged KLZE ..8psi untuned and buck wildCarDomain page

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    • #47
      I started typing the same thing up a few days ago but never got back around to it. As stated above is exactly right. Money is on the throw out. It has been a while since I have been underneath the probe but don't we have an inspection plate at the bottom of the trans that he can remove to see it or possibly some debris from shearing at the bottom of the bellhouse?
      1995 Probe GT - N2O Ingested, CM 3, fidanza, headers, exhaust, CAI, MS, kenwood sound
      2010 Ram 1500 4x4 - Daily Driver
      99 Mustang V6 stock inherited not sure what the plan is

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      • #48
        There is an inspection plate there at the bottom of the trans held on by what i think is 3 14mm bolts if i remember right. You will break at least one taking it off (don't worry about it you only need 2 ).

        But in all reality, its time to park it somewhere where you can work, jack it up, get the front on jack stands, and start taking the trans out. Buy yourself a cheep transmission jack for around $100 from Ebay or Harbor Freight to help get it in and out of the car. You will be able to lift it yourself, but i don't recommend bench pressing it in and out by yourself, the jack will make your life much easier. Also i would get a cheap but strong impact wrench to make some things easier like axle nuts and cross member bolts.

        I know you can do it if you try. I Had no idea what I was doing when I did mine, it was my first time ever doing a transmission on anything. I had my Haynes manual and Travis Williams post on here to go by and i just took my time and did it. After you complete the job, you will feel like a new man driving a new car. Good luck!

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        • #49
          Thank you guys for the fantastic explanation and all the encouragement.

          I am convinced that I need to replace the throw out bearing and now I will need your further guidance to build up confidence to it.

          For example:
          1. How high should I jack up the front of the car?
          2. Do I roll out the removed transmission from the bottom? So i simply drop it not lift it up through the engine bay somehow? (I know its a stupid question but still )

          I am going to start on it this weekend and will keep you posted as I progress...

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          • #50
            The trans will come out of the bottom. There are some good write ups on here on the process. I've had mine out a few years back and completely rebuilt one on an eclipse I had a few years ago. It's not really that difficult, took my time and it took about a day. Then again I have experience working on cars as well. If you can change your brakes and struts I'm confident you can tackle the trans. Some may think it's a bad comparison but hey you set your mind to it you'll get it done. After all you are not disassembling it, just removing the thing to expose the clutch. I do however would recommend replacing the clutch, throw out, and a fidanza or lighter flywheel while you have it apart. You will be glad you did.

            Get the vehicle up a good amount so you have room to get under the car and enough room for the trans to be removed from under the car. I'll be here as long as I'm sure others will as well for any farther questions you may have. You will be fine, just take your time and don't sweat it.

            Also at the top of the forum in this section is a sticky of how to change your own clutch thread. Just read over it and it's pretty straight forward. Although any questions beyond that feel free to ask.
            Last edited by Level 9; October 11, 2017, 01:26 PM.
            1995 Probe GT - N2O Ingested, CM 3, fidanza, headers, exhaust, CAI, MS, kenwood sound
            2010 Ram 1500 4x4 - Daily Driver
            99 Mustang V6 stock inherited not sure what the plan is

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            • #51
              Use jack stands placed on the unibody rails, 3-4 clicks up on the jack stands on level ground. I also take off my hood, it's easy enough and it's easier on the back, easier to see things and to wrench as well. I set the hood on the grass when I'm working
              Probe out for Harambe
              94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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              • #52
                I am really happy that PT is back. I have started to take the transmission out and replace the release bearing. I am of course following TravisWillims's instructions. But I still have some questions there, hope people keep helping me in this thread:

                1. I understand that I only need to remove the CV axle from the diver side and not the passenger side - is this correct?
                2. In those instructions there is nothing about supporting the engine - do I need to support engine, because I am removing so many things from it?

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                • #53
                  Update for today:

                  removed strut from hub (one out of two bolts was really stubborn)
                  removed crossbar
                  removed engine cradle - but unfortunately snapped a front 17 mm bolt. Yes it sanpped. It came half way out then got really hard to go further i tried to bring it back a little and then out again, but at some point it snapped. I guess I will have to drill it out never done that and I am sure I will hate that.

                  QUESTION: at what point should I start supporting the entire clutch assembly ? So far I am only supporting the engine by the oil pan.

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by iraklic View Post
                    Update for today:

                    removed strut from hub (one out of two bolts was really stubborn)
                    removed crossbar
                    removed engine cradle - but unfortunately snapped a front 17 mm bolt. Yes it sanpped. It came half way out then got really hard to go further i tried to bring it back a little and then out again, but at some point it snapped. I guess I will have to drill it out never done that and I am sure I will hate that.

                    QUESTION: at what point should I start supporting the entire clutch assembly ? So far I am only supporting the engine by the oil pan.
                    Do you have an engine picker? Or a garage u can use a cross beam? Or a tree?
                    Some people are living life and some people are just living.

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                    • #55
                      The car is on jack stands in the garage. What is a cross beam or a tree?

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by iraklic View Post
                        The car is on jack stands in the garage. What is a cross beam or a tree?
                        A tree grows out of the ground....

                        you need something to support the motor and trans.
                        a cross beam runs across in your garage... you can use it to support the motor if it’s strong enough.
                        mans usually JUST THE MOTOR!!!! Your cross beam in your garage probably isn’t strong enough for both the motor and trans.

                        sorry for the late response. I forgot to check today, been a hell of a week!!
                        Some people are living life and some people are just living.

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                        • #57
                          Good luck. Keep us posted.

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by yellowrob View Post

                            A tree grows out of the ground....

                            you need something to support the motor and trans.
                            a cross beam runs across in your garage... you can use it to support the motor if it’s strong enough.
                            mans usually JUST THE MOTOR!!!! Your cross beam in your garage probably isn’t strong enough for both the motor and trans.

                            sorry for the late response. I forgot to check today, been a hell of a week!!
                            I have a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. I plan to use one of these for transmission support and removal:

                            https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-ton-Tra...UAAOSw5cRZImBg

                            Will this plan work?

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by iraklic View Post

                              I have a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. I plan to use one of these for transmission support and removal:

                              https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-ton-Tra...UAAOSw5cRZImBg

                              Will this plan work?
                              Yeah.. guys have worked with less.

                              it works that way in the junkyard.. my buddy laid on his back and used his arms and legs to lift the trans off.
                              Some people are living life and some people are just living.

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                              • #60
                                OK. I did lots of nut and bolt removal but I am stuck. I am following this write up:
                                https://forums.probetalk.com/forum/p...d?t=1701245537

                                And I just removed shift stabilizer bar. But the linkage bar I am not sure about. The nut that was underneath cam off, but what now? I tried to tap on the bolt to see if it would just slip out, but it won't budge. How do I remove it? The is even a picture in the write up and it looks like it should be simple.

                                After this I am not sure about the rest of the nuts and bolts at all and your help would be greatly appreciated.

                                1. It says
                                • remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)
                                and there is a picture... but I do not know where it is. Where is that huge motormount?

                                2. The come:
                                • remove rear 17mm engine to transmission bolt.
                                • remove front lower 17mm engine to transmission bolt., it is a stubby one, remember where it goes
                                • leave in lower rear 14mm engine to transmission bolt (trust me)
                                Where are these? Which are these?

                                I think I know the rest. Also, there is another mount that holds the transmission to the frame of the car - driver side. Why there is no mention of it? May be I am confusing it with one of the things in the write up? This one: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhfINrj0_fdIhIQT...NrzGw?e=CV4FWD

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