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  • Clutch problem and smoking

    Little history:

    Car has been making squealing noises from clutch, it would somewhat stop after warm up and noise would change depending on weather clutch was depressed or released.

    Also (may be unrelated), a month ago CEL started showing up, codes VRIS and EGR.

    So today when driving at some point it got hard to switch gear and then clutch was not coming up. After some time clutch came up but if depressed for a few seconds engine would stall and clutch would stay down and then some pumping would bring it up.

    I drove home by very very quickly changing gears when needed and trying not to stop. When clutch depressed to keep engine running I had to have gas pressed and during that time car would smoke. I am guessing from clutch.

    Also, I think I have been loosing coolant? I may be imagining things now with everything.

    If someone can make sense of all this and help me with my problem that would be fantastic.

    Thanks.

  • #2
    I'm pretty sure the clutch is unrelated to the other two problems. Sounds like air in the clutch line that needs bleeding?

    And the VRIS and EGR codes won't be related to coolant loss either.

    Comment


    • #3
      Check for a leaking clutch slave or master cylinder.
      Probe out for Harambe
      94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

      Comment


      • #4
        I will check the cylinders.

        Any idea why was the clutch smoking?

        Comment


        • #5
          If you're on the brake and the clutch is not fully disengaged/ing you're going to heat it up. Check for a vacuum leak for the VRIS, EGR stuff.
          Probe out for Harambe
          94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

          Comment


          • #6
            Also, if you've never replaced the rubber clutch line (under the battery) check that for moisture. They normally develop a pin hole and spray fluid around in that area.

            Those are common to leak and cause pedal pressure and engagement issues.
            '94 Red PGT Gone, but Project PGT has begun
            '04 Black SRT-4 Um, no it's not stock. But "It's just a Neon, right?" 379whp @ 20lbs *Sold*

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            • #7
              Originally posted by BLUEnoEQ View Post
              If you're on the brake and the clutch is not fully disengaged/ing you're going to heat it up
              Thanks, that makes sense. And that is why engine was stalling because even though I had my foot on clutch it was not disengaging.

              So I am going to check the cylinders today, but what is the most probable culprit for clutch not disengaging?

              Comment


              • #8
                It could be either one. Check your brake reservoir to see if it's low too. My brake light blinked at me once, a brief flash in rush hour traffic (while everything was hot,) and that was the only warning I got when my slave cylinder went within a day or two. Symptom number 2 the pedal did nothing. There is a possibility of an internal leak. Slave cylinders are cheap and easy to do. Never done the master before, looks like a complete pain.
                Probe out for Harambe
                94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

                Comment


                • #9
                  Oh wait, so the master cylinder is the same thing as the brake fluid reservoir? is the clutch and brake supplied from same reservoir and same brake fluid?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep same fluid reservoir.
                    Probe out for Harambe
                    94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by iraklic View Post
                      Oh wait, so the master cylinder is the same thing as the brake fluid reservoir? is the clutch and brake supplied from same reservoir and same brake fluid?
                      Yes as said previously. And if it gets a little bit low -your clutch will go! Definitely sounds like either low fluid or air in system. Fill and bleed!

                      Pray that it is not the clutch master gone bad! Inside nut is a biatch nut!
                      Last edited by KLZE Porsche; November 9, 2016, 05:21 AM.
                      Success is a measure of determination!
                      Bonneville Dreamer-(AKA Purple Pimp Mobile)
                      $500 Gas-Electric-Gas Reconversion/Restoration
                      Mini-me & 500k "Old Gal" RIP
                      Restoration of a legend

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well my brake fluid is full. So I am guessing it is either the slave cylinder of I am screwed and my clutch or transmission is gone bad. By the way so if master cylinder is same as brake fluid reservoir then would brake stop working if that goes bad?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          It's not your clutch or your transmission. It's either the master or the slave. If your clutch was bad it wouldn't hold the car or it would slip when trying to move it. If it's not leaking fluid then it's leaking around the seal internally. Which means replacement. If you do end up doing the master replace both, the slave is so cheap, it's not worth having to bleed it twice.
                          Last edited by BLUEnoEQ; November 13, 2016, 02:01 PM.
                          Probe out for Harambe
                          94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            It's your throw out bearing. Time for a new clutch kit. Mine did the same thing. The squealing that changes some what when you push the clutch in is the pressure plate grinding against the throw out bearing that's not moving anymore and being ripped to shreds. Sorry, time to remove the trans, its not too bad.

                            i.imgur.com/MHRnGrF.jpg

                            http://i.imgur.com/WsSXGbA.jpg

                            don't worry about your 2 check engine codes until you fix the clutch, there not a big deal.

                            If your losing coolant, I'm guessing its coming from the water pump because that will more than likely be the first thing to fail. see if you have a coolant puddle by the passenger side front wheel - AFTER you fix your clutch. Removing the trans is not as hard as it sounds. I bought a transmission jack to help lower and lift it into the car which made life easy.
                            Last edited by J_Unit; November 18, 2016, 08:18 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              J_Unit, I am afraid you are right. Do I have to lift the entire car for that? How high?

                              The weather is finally nice here so I actually just removed the battery and air box to have a look at the slave cylinder. Where the hack is it?

                              By the way, when engine is not running, the I can press clutch and it come back normally, there is some squealing noise though, that has been there for years, it's like the hinge needs to be oiled or something. When engine is running there is lots of hissing from throw out bearing and when I press clutch engine is about to stall. I did not keep it pressed but it felt like engine would stall.

                              I still harbor a hope that clutch removal will not be necessary, but if it will I might need all the help there is. Even if anyone knows a reliable shop on long island or lives near me I would be glad to know.

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