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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old November 8th, 2017, 01:16 PM   #1
BLUEnoEQ
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Crank key ate it, timing belt shredded

Is there any particular type of shop I should be looking for to get a new key made up? Or other ideas. Pulley looks fine, there doesn't appear to be any damage to anything else. I knew something was really wrong when the pulley felt loose after the slightest bit of loosening the bolt. Also the belt angling into the head.
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Old November 9th, 2017, 07:36 PM   #2
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Bummer. Junkyard maybe?
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Old November 9th, 2017, 07:52 PM   #3
Onyxhammer
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Make sure you didn't **** up the key in the crank. Otherwise you're going to be looking for a new one.

If its just the key only - hit up a JY
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Old November 10th, 2017, 08:51 AM   #4
BLUEnoEQ
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Key is broken off in the timing sprocket itself, pulley and crank are damaged. I'm going to have to make something myself to jam in there, after, using a puller on the sprocket.
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Old November 12th, 2017, 08:08 PM   #5
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Little update. The timing part of the key way for the sprocket should be fine. Still haven't pulled that yet. But the key fractured a little bit into the sprocket.

The damaged part of the crank is only under the accessory drive pulley. So that part won't be off or cause out of time. I have a key from another KL already removed but, I'm not going to use it. I measured it. 4.96mm x 5.18mm (for anyone that needs that in the future. I'm going to cut a new key myself from a bolt or something. I'm going to start way oversized and work it down til it's close and hammer it in. Trimming the length at the end.

As to the cause of the problem in the first place, so this doesn't happen to you. My idle quality has been messed up for awhile, causing a chugging on deceleration. When you consider all of the accessories spinning that chugging causes a back and forth motion and stress on the pulley and key. Also over a year ago my PS pump locked up and destroyed it's belt, that may have done some damage. I also have some wear on the points the CPS picks up on, and I'm not sure if the loose crank pulley was causing my misfire, it was only a misfire on cyl. number 1 according to the ECU, with good plugs, wires, cap, rotor.

Basically, if you have a problem, don't just send it, even if you really don't think it's that big of a problem.

I would like to get some opinions for a plan B just in case. I have a usable DE bottom end here, another DE I can pull a crank from. I want to keep and use the ZE pistons. If I had to swap the crank... I'd need crank bearings, rod bearings and I'd have to get it all balanced? More things? Less? Overkill, I won't need to rebalance. Get some KJ rods for the heck of it?
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Old November 19th, 2017, 06:48 PM   #6
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You should use only a regular woodruff key to replace the one that broke. That key must be made of a softer metal than the other items. Its purpose is to shear off instead of something else breaking (to protect your crankshaft & pumps). If the key is made of a harder metal than required, you will get major damage to everything in the event of a rotating assembly malfunction.

Also, hammering the key will flare/mushroom it out, resulting in a no-fit situation for the timing sprocket. I must ask that you resist the urge to do that.
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Old November 19th, 2017, 08:01 PM   #7
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Really need pix to comment on this situation correctly...9 out of 10 times it's crank or used motor..js
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Old November 19th, 2017, 08:10 PM   #8
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I kind of figured as much but I do appreciate the initial thought being reinforced. The crank has been damaged a little bit, again only where the crank pulley goes, the timing sprocket key area is fine. My fear is that the area where the key broke will be a problem and will cause a new key to break again. I figure my best chance is use a softer metal like you suggested, hammer it in with the timing sprocket and with extra material on the key that can be hammered to fit the shape smashed into the crank with some small body hammers. I'm considering using some JB, weld a very small amount, to absolutely make sure there is less space for movement. I mean sheeeit some people fix cracked heads with the stuff, right?
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Old November 19th, 2017, 08:19 PM   #9
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xrp861 unfortunately the weather sucks right now. I'll take a picture when I do finally get around to looking at the car again. Sourcing a new (HA!) crank isn't a problem, I have 2, both inside of DE bottom ends. 1 is outside in my white car, pistons seized from sitting with no heads, maybe I can pull it, crank should be ok in there. The other is in the garage spinning but I kind of wanted to put that one in the white car. Plus I've never swapped a crank before and I don't know what I'm doing with the crank and rod bearings.
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