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Clutch problem and smoking

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  • #16
    1. our clutch pedal is hydraulic. The reservoir has 3 chambers, the clutch chamber can leak down without the brake chambers dropping too low.
    2. the smoking while pushing the clutch in and revving the motor was you burning your clutch disk as it was partially engaging.
    3. follow the line by the motor mount under the distributor...that's where the slave is.

    Even if you don't see a leak, either the slave, the rubber line, or the master is leaking.
    If nothing else, replace the master AND the slave. For an easier time of getting the master off, go to youtube and watch my video of how to pull the inside the dash nut.... just look up TheSidneySmith and you'll find the video
    '94 teal w/black int. some sort of sts, 65mm DE TB full KL31 ZE, CAI, Phenolyc spacers, mx3 flywheel, pacesetter headers, 2.5" exhaust, stainless brake lines, MS and LC-1. Charter member Club 15.2 - Mustang Dyno - 187/169 @the wheels
    '90 White GT "Pearl"....uh ohzzzz...I had turboz. Now with T3....now it's J-doggs
    '96 SE & '93 "Red-Eye" smashed and trashed. 97 GTS....crashed, not trashed yet

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    • #17
      Oh so the slave cylinder is on the other side under the disty? That would explain some oily liquid under there which I was sure is neither oil nor coolant but couldn't explain what could have been there. This give me little hope. I will check it out.

      One more thing is, as I mentioned by clutch pedal has been squeaky for quite some time, and long time ago when it has just started being squeaky I noticed ad oily dark spot on my mat there, which I could not attribute to anything and I actually though that during the oil change they put some grease up there to grease up the pedal. Could it be something leaking down the pedal and that's why it is squeaky?

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      • #18
        if there is a leak on the carpet....the clutch master is leaking.....so you need to get both a master and slave
        '94 teal w/black int. some sort of sts, 65mm DE TB full KL31 ZE, CAI, Phenolyc spacers, mx3 flywheel, pacesetter headers, 2.5" exhaust, stainless brake lines, MS and LC-1. Charter member Club 15.2 - Mustang Dyno - 187/169 @the wheels
        '90 White GT "Pearl"....uh ohzzzz...I had turboz. Now with T3....now it's J-doggs
        '96 SE & '93 "Red-Eye" smashed and trashed. 97 GTS....crashed, not trashed yet

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        • #19
          SuperSquid, the carpet got greasy at some point about two years ago, but there are not new stains since, can it be some other problem? Also, if the master was leaking wouldn't i notice the level to go down. My level stays normal, I only have to add just a little bit every two years or so.

          Another question: what is the best way to get to the slave cylinder, from top or bottom? Shoul I remove disty or the passenger wheel and go from underneath?

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          • #20
            Go from the top, its fairly easy to get to from the top. I don't think i have ever removed any other components to install/remove the slave. Changing the master cylinder is going to make you hate your probe.

            If i remember right, the vacuum box will be in the way and you have to unbolt and just move it out of your way. There is one bolt that is nearly impossible to get to by the clutch pedal unless your some kind of contortionist. I wound up using a gator grip (one size fits all) socket on that bolt so i could take it out blindly, worked well for me, but whatever works for you. I'll probably give Squids method a try next time i have to do it.

            The squeaking of the clutch pedal itself is unfortunately somewhat normal for our cars. I think people just use lubricant on it to shut it up for a while, i haven't done nothing to mine yet.

            I don't know how far I had my car jacked up exactly when I first removed the trans for my first clutch job. http://i.imgur.com/GKs8GXL.jpg but this is an image you can reference. and look it could be worse, you could be working in a giant ice pond trying to do all this lol.

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            • #21
              thanks J_Unit. I'll give it a try from top and WOOW that must have been hard to work in that giant ice pond

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              • #22
                I have finally found time to get to this problem. I removed the slave cylinder. I ordered a new one and will be replacing it when it arrives.

                Is there a way of telling that it is bad by looking at it or something? I pushed a clutch pedal before I start removing and it seemed to go down and up normally.

                https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhfINrj0_fdIgesBZYOFi6ybzNYCLQ

                Does the system work differently when the engine is running and not running? Is it possible that the pedal comes up for some reason when engine is not running and does not when it is?

                Also, if it was a throwout bearing, would it come up today?

                Should the clutch lever (that slave cylinder pushed) wiggle? Here is a video:

                https://1drv.ms/v/s!AhfINrj0_fdIgesAQ9W_Z3egizZXgw

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                • #23
                  Update:

                  I replaced the slave cylinder. Bled it.
                  Put everything together. Started the engine after more then half a year sitting. It started with some squealing and smoke. But then smoke cleared and engine ran with normal idle.

                  When pressing the clutch pedal it squeals. And engine starts to stall.

                  I am not able to switch gears when engine is running.

                  Can it be that I didn't bleed enough and it is not pressing far enough to separate clutch plate and let me switch gears?

                  I know my throwout bearing is bad, but can it be THE problem or something else may be cooperating with it not letting me switch gears?

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                  • #24
                    You can try bleeding it again, but I think it's your clutch master that's bad. It's not too bad if you have the right extension length to get the one nut on the firewall between the brake master and the brake booster 10 11 or 12mm can't remember which. Then, flip yourself up side down, with the driver's seat back and reclined steering wheel tilted up remove the white plastic box with 2 gold nuts holding it on by the clutch pedal (under dash and up) 10mm I think and then the bolt going through to the CMC. Pinch the hose clamp on the supply line from the brake master, pull off and the clutch master cylinder should be free. Reverse to install, no bleeding necessary if it's already good from before. Add fluid to the brake reservoir if necessary.
                    Last edited by BLUEnoEQ; September 14, 2017, 09:08 PM. Reason: fluid
                    Probe out for Harambe
                    94 PGT KLZE http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr6dk8q1m.jpg
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aauXMeITcdM

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                    • #25
                      Does it sound like this when you engage the clutch?

                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irfBio-gpj0

                      If so its your throw out bearing and it would look like the one on the right

                      http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...T/IMG_5607.jpg
                      1994 Coral Mist Metallic PGT
                      http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701308460

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                      • #26
                        My money is on the throw out bearing. I think my master is finally taking a dump with the brake going to the floor yet my clutch still works perfectly. Also another thing to check is your inspection plate. Check for any wetness, I had a different car at one point where the input shaft seal was leaking. However that did not affect shifting but did make a mess.
                        1995 Probe GT - N2O Ingested, CM 3, fidanza, headers, exhaust, CAI, MS, kenwood sound
                        2010 Ram 1500 4x4 - Daily Driver
                        99 Mustang V6 stock inherited not sure what the plan is

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                        • #27
                          Thanks for suggestions guys. Could you help me understand how would either master cylinder or throw out bearing would stop me from switching the gear.

                          I am able to switch gears when the engine is not running... I am trying to understand what is going on.

                          Replacing the throw out bearing is not a very easy job to ge to it on my own as I understand so if I can avoid it and have car running for a few more months that would be great.

                          Also, what's an inspection plate?
                          Last edited by iraklic; September 15, 2017, 08:00 AM.

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                          • #28
                            clutch release bearing
                            Last edited by diosnoche; September 16, 2017, 12:19 PM.

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                            • #29
                              Right... It looks like everything is point to that bearing, clutch release or throw out, whatever it is called.

                              I still would like to understand the mechanism. What is different when engine is running and when it is not. Why I am able to switch gears when engine is not running and what is not letting me do so when it is?

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                              • #30
                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqF-aBtTBnY

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