ticking noise/oil pump/HLA issues

[mmahoney]

Am new to the forum, and decided to post some information that might be of help for everyone with ticking noise coming from camshaft cover area. I own a 1994 Mazda 626LX 2.0L and had the ticking noise since I bought the car (used with 24,000 miles). The noise would rise and fall with engine rpm's and was more pronounced when the engine was hot. I decided that I had enough and was going to get it fixed. I was told by independant mechs and 2 different dealers that I had one or more bad HLA's and that I should replace them all. At $40 each, and 16 of them, plus labor, this was out of the question. So I started doing a little research. I found a site www.alldatadiy.com that had a TSB issued by Mazda in late '96 about this problem. The problem is caused by air getting trapped in the HLA because the oil pump plunger is too short. I went to Mazda and got a new oil pump plunger, replaced it, and haven't had a problem since! (I got around to fixing this when the car had 104,000 miles on it-I put about 25,000 miles a year on my car.) If this solution is tried, you can see where the new plunger is about 2cm longer than the old one. A word of caution. I did this myself, and it really isn't that hard, but don't rely on the Mazda workshop manual for help. The manual states that there are (aprox.) 8 pan to block bolts, there are actually more (like 14). Took me 4 hours (and a lot of cursing) to figure out why the pan and spacer wouldn't drop. After this, change oil and sub 1/2 quart oil with 1/2 quart Dextron 3. That's right, transmission oil. Reason? Have you ever taken apart a transaxle and seen it dirty? You won't, cause the tx oil, by nature, keeps it clean. It will do the same for the internal engine parts. (This doesn't mean it will clean sludge out of an engine, it will just help keep a clean and properly maintained engine cleaner.) It will also help the oil to not break down as fast. I agree with anybody that says don't use synthetic oil for anything. I've seen more problems cause by something as simple as putting synthetic oil in a car than you can imagine (my dad works for Ford-27 years and counting). This is just a recommendation, but I have 148,000 miles on my car (change the oil religiously at 3000 miles-and use MotorCraft filter FLA821 because the bypass valve is one of the best designs available-it won't drain back and won't let air into the system), and have never had to do a damn thing to it except the HLA tick issue, and replace the ac compressor because the overheat sensor wouldn't shut up. I hope this helps!

[trippinbillies40]

that's VERY helpful, and will save me tons of stress. You get my vote for coolest newbie.

[rebby]

wow, what a great first post :grin:

that is a very insightful solution to a very common problem. most people swap out the entire pump. what was the cost of this (other than the time)???

[Electric]

To the newbie:



4 of 'em just because you haven't posted "why do I have a noise coming from the engine"...but...actually a possible solution to everyone's agonizing problems! :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:

Good stuff. Now was the plunger easy to get a hold of and like Rebby said...how much?!

[mmahoney]

If the Mazda workshop manual had been correct in the number of bolts to the block, and no cursing, about 2 hours. I believe the cost of the plunger was under $30. I know, shocking when you compare that to the grand the dealer would want to change all the HLA's. I can dig up the correct part number to get if people want it, but I can't promise that I have it here. (moved recently).
Confession: I have been busting to tell that story! It's sort of a David & Goliath story, cause it pissed me off that the dealer wanted $1000, and I fixed it for about $40.

[Electric]

On Wednesday July 18, 2001 11:20 PM, mmahoney wrote:...the dealer wanted $1000, and I fixed it for about $40.

YDM: You Da Man!

Part number would be good! Anytime you get the chance!

[mmahoney]

The part number is (this is for my car now!, which is a 2.0L) Jf01-14-115. Oh, and my mistake, it cost me $4.19 (tax included for LA). Take that Goliath! Oh, yeah, and shop around. I found out the hard way and by paying attention, that each dealers prices are different. Don't think that you will pay the same at every dealership. Parts are a fast buck for dealers and are a fast moving inventory. Prices are jacked on popular items that wear out quick, like alts, brake stuff, etc. When I replaced my ac compressor, the local dealer wanted $600 for a new one. I called a dealership 27 miles away, and got the same part number for $260. A joke for sure.

[Wim9516V]

Hiya,

I don't want to be negative, but this story seems a bit too good to be true. First of all the original and revised oil pumps are very hard to open, not to say almost impossible (small phillips/hex screws). The problem is that the pump gears were down, and that can't be fixed with just a US$4 plunger. There are 2 problems, a possible sticking plunger (too high pressure) and worn out gears (air in the oil system and HLA's ticking). Also I have an account on the alldata.com site, and only a new oil pump is listed to fix this problem (for the Probe 2.0L that is). So just replacing the oil plunger will not be a complete fix. I wouldn't take the risk to have to replace the oil pump again as it is a lot of work. So a complete new oil pump still seems the best solution.

Would be nice to get some more info on this plunger, as I have still no clue where it is located in the oil pump.

Have a nice Probe day,

Wim

[mmahoney]

I was also skeptical, I couldn't believe that the solution to my problem was a $4 part. I am only stating what problem my Mazda 2.0 was exhibiting. I didn't get all of the information I needed from alldatadiy.com, but it lead me to some interesting ideas. One of which was the NHTSA web site. By law, all car manufacturers in the United States have to file TSB with this site. I have a copy of the actual Mazda TSB with these symptoms, and the solution which I have already described in my above post. When you see the fix on the TSB, it is really a simple solution. I just dropped the pan and there is a plate on the bottom of the pump that just comes off and the plunger drops out. (I'm paraphrasing since I actually haven't looked at the TSB in a few months.) The hardest part for me was finding all of the bolts to remove to drop the pan and spacer to get to the pump. I would be happy to email anybody who would like this information or is skeptical of the fix, jpeg's of the Mazda TSB and my receipt for the plunger which has the part number on it. (My public email address is mmahoney@email.com) This is what worked for my car, so YMMV for your individual vehicle.

Hope this helps!

[Wim9516V]

Hi mmahoney (Do you have a real name? ).

Please send me that Mazda TSB if you have it in an electrical format. I already have a new revised oil pump in my car (the old one seized at 60kmiles while doing 120 mph, so I also had to replace my crankshaft and piston+rods with new rings/bearings as the old ones overheated), but it would be nice if we can offer this fix to the other people. I still have my broken oil pump at home, so I can have a look at it. Problem is that the 8 screws that hold the oilpump back plate don't easily come off. Did you remove them, or did you only replace some part in the pressure relief valve? Anyways, my oil pump totaly gave up and I don't even have an heavily modded car. Luckely I could rebuild the engine myself, with a total cost of US$1500, which are 90% parts...

Looking forward to hear from you!

Wim

PS: It could be that Ford just prefers to sell an entire new oil pump, rather than selling the plunger. But the Probe might also have a slightly different oil pump. We will find out soon!
PS2: I also couldn't get the reinforcement block off fist (you refer to it as 'spacer' I think) Turns out that there are 2 more bolts below the flywheel, which you need to take out after removing 2 rubber plugs at the bottom of the gearbox. Guess you had the same problem! :grin: :grin

[ruscles]

Anyone else tried this? I emailed him for the info. and I haven't received a response.

[MacIzCool]

I just emailed today and asked for the info... so far I haven't recieved anything. Maybe they are on vacation. It is July.

Jonathan

[mmahoney]

Sorry people, I did go away for a couple of days. I will be emailing the stuff to all who emailed me for it in a few days. My scanner is being a punk.

Thanks for being patient :smile:

PS ruscles-I used to live in Slidell, now in Covington!

[KnightRider]

Hey Honey???
We have the same car, I have a silver 1994 626, 101,000 miles.

I notice the ticking when the engine is hot, and driving fast and conering hard, then come to a stop, and especially if I stop the engine and then restart it after a couple of minutes it ticks. Driving fast again stops it.

Thanks for that tip!!!!!

[goprobego]

THIS IS THE BEST POST I HAVE SEEN ABOUT THE OIL PUMP PROBLEM... IF THIS THING WORKS!!!!!!! :smile: