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  • ***Appearance Forum FAQ*** (All New - Updated 9-20-2010)

    Ok, this will be a work in progress for a few weeks, but it's time to revamp the FAQ due to a lot of new information and a lot of dead links.


    What to look for when buying a Probe:

    *Written by Spada Ben (LINK)

    Bulb Information:

    [color=black]Bulb Location & Bulb Number spreadsheet
    (Additional part #'s)


    2nd gen Taillight differences by year/country:

    *pw_cc_runner's breakdown LINK

    Sleepy Eye Mod:

    *Carlos' Method (LINK)
    *
    Jerry Rhodes' method (THE original method) (LINK)

    Center Reflector Light-up:

    *Carlos' Method (LINK)

    [color=darkorange]Center Reflector Removal:

    *natecade1's Method (LINK)

    Quad/Projector Headlight Conversion:

    *Tweaked's Method (LINK)
    *mcnickin's Method (LINK)
    *soufkackicustom's Method (LINK)
    (MANY other threads on this topic. Please search)

    H4 Headlight Conversion:

    *soufkackicustom's Method (LINK)
    *H4 Headlight Pinout conversion

    OEM Bumper Conversions/Upgrades:

    *SCPOC's Page (Maintenance, How-to Section, Bumper Swap)
    http://www.scpoc.com/


    Honeycomb/Firebird Taillights:

    *DigitalGT's Method (LINK)

    Tinted Taillights:

    (LINK)
    (VHT Night-Shades)

    Ford Emblem Color Change:

    (LINK)

    Aftermarket Shift Boot & Knob Info:

    *Replacement Shift Boots:
    (RR-Racing) (Shiftboot Store)

    *Thread pitch, what fits, what doesn't (LINK)

    Cont.
    Last edited by probesport_gt; September 20, 2010, 05:22 PM.
    ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
    No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
    ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

  • #2
    How to Remove Interior:

    *Posted by superballs63 (LINK)

    Changing gauge cluster colors:

    *NiN^_^NiN's Method (LINK)

    *Tweaked's Method (LINK)

    Changing Needle Color:

    (LINK)

    Recovering 95-97 Doorpanel Inserts:

    *Ken's (PRD) Method (LINK)

    Fiberglass TV in Center Console:

    *Silver PGT-R's Method (LINK)

    False Floor How-to:

    *soufkackicustom's Method (kenton's info)

    Where to Buy Replacement Carpet:

    (LINK)

    GTS Stripes Dimensions:

    *Thanks to kenton (LINK)

    Where to Buy Replacement Decals:

    (LINK)

    Where to Oem Fender Clips:

    *Boobie's Method (LINK)

    How to Detail Car Engine:

    *KMazz's Method (LINK)
    Last edited by probesport_gt; September 20, 2010, 05:24 PM.
    ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
    No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
    ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

    Comment


    • #3
      How-to Remove Side Skirts:

      *pw_cc_runner's Method (LINK)

      How-to Install FX Rear Triangles:

      *Wes Fenton's Method (LINK)

      How-to Shave Front Licence Plate:

      Wes Fenton's Method (LINK)

      How-to Fiberglass Repair:

      *James' (PA_Probe) Method (LINK)

      How-to Shave Door Handles:

      *UnorthodoxCreat's Method (LINK)

      How-to Get 90 Degree Lambos From Universal Hinges:

      *bizkit29588's Method (LINK)

      How-to DIY Carbon Fiber Gas Door for $34:

      *LowClassCC's Method (LINK)
      Last edited by c-man; November 22, 2008, 01:56 PM.
      ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
      No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
      ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

      Comment


      • #4
        Wheels,Tires, Offsets, Fit, etc.

        Here we go:

        Stock wheel specs:
        *16" w/ 5 x 114.3 with a 40mm offset*
        Stock tire size:
        *225/50/R16*

        Pictures & Specs of every model year of stock Probe brakes,rims, & tire information

        Now onto aftermarket rim fits:

        LUG PATTERNS

        You MUST have rims w/ 5x114.3 (which is also known as 5x4.5)

        A lot of aftermarket rims will have 2 sets of bolt patterns on 1 wheel (10 holes) One set of 5 will be 5x100 (WONT FIT), and the other set will be 5x114.3 (WILL FIT) So...that tells us that this wheel WILL FIT THE PROBE.

        If the wheel is listed as 5x4 ½, then the wheel WILL FIT. (5x4 ½=5x4.5=5x114.3)

        OFFSETS

        ~Higher the offset #= the closer the wheel sits to the strut
        ~Lower the offset #= the the wheel sitting farther away from the strut.

        Once again the stock rims have 40mm offsets. With the proper tire sizing on a 40mm offset you could easily fit 18x8, 19x8 wheels on all 4 corners. ~thx Chris

        ~The lowest offset that I know of on a probe is 32mm. (this requires cutting the spring perches and possibly rolling the fender wells based on tire size~you would need coil overs more than likely)
        ~The highest offset that I know people run on the probe is a 50mm. (now with that offset 3mm spacers are need on the rear)

        So basically, anything between 32mm & 50mm will fit. It all depends on where you want the wheel sitting.

        RIM SIZES

        Most people who go aftermarket have anywhere from 16" to 19"s on the probes.

        Common sizes found on probes are:
        ~16x6.5, 16x7*
        ~17x7*, 17x7.5, 17.8
        ~18x7.5, 18x8*, 18x9
        ~19x8
        *means most common sold and found on probes

        Some of these might take a little work to the suspension to get to fit (such as 19"s and 18x9"s), but it can be done.


        TIRE SIZES

        Lets break down the tire markings:

        ex: 205/40/17

        ~The "205" part of that marking is referring to the width of the tire. The higher the #, the wider the tire.
        ~The "40" part of that marking is referring to the percentage of the width of the tire. So if you have a "205" series tire, then it means the height of the sidewall is 40% of the width. The sidewall is how thick the tire is. The lower the percentage, the smaller the sidewall, the lower the tire height. (also the lower the percentage, the worse the ride quality in most cases)
        ~Last the "17" part of that marking refers to what size rims the tires are made for. These in the example would be for 17" rims.

        So to review here:
        ~If you are going for looks, go with a smaller sidewall height on the tire.
        ~If you are going for ride comfort, go with a taller sidewall height on the tire.
        ~Each width of rim will have a min and a max width tire that can be mounted on it and still seal properly. Make sure you check all the specs on your wheels when choosing tires for your rims. Select the best tires that match your particular rims!

        FD (RX7) RIMS

        A few probe owners opt to go with the 3rd Gen RX7 rims (known as FD rims) due to the looks and weight of the wheels. They are on the 93-95 Mazda RX-7.

        Specs:
        ~16x8 with a 50mm offset
        ~most run 225/50/16 size tires with them
        ~93's weigh in at 13.8lbs each, 94 and on weigh in at 16lbs each. (due to the 93s cracking and having to be reinforced in the later years) *93mx6er
        ~Click here for info how to tell what year FD rim you have *blackpgt1994


        So..they fit, but due to the width the tires hit the struts a little. These rims require 4.5-5mm spacers in the rear!!!

        _________________________________________________

        Ok...I think that covers it. Anyone FEEL FREE to pm if anything is wrong or you think I need to re-word, or add anything to this. Thanks and I hope this helps.

        Later
        Wes
        Last edited by c-man; May 7, 2008, 01:53 AM.
        ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
        No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
        ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

        Comment


        • #5
          Places to buy wheels/rims/tires/combos:

          (LINK)

          Other OEM wheels that fit the Probes:

          (LINK)

          Others not included in link: **(thanks Kyle)**
          *RX8 18inch
          *Mustang Cobra 5 spoke 17 inch
          *Mazda6 17 inch
          *Mazda3 17 inch
          *Mazdaspeed Protege 17 inch (Racing Hearts)
          *Mazda Protege 17 inch (2001.5+)
          *Mazda Protege 16 inch
          *Mazda6 16 inch
          *PGT 5 star 16 inch
          *PGT Swirlies 16 inch
          *RX7 FD's 16 inch
          *MX6 sunflowers 15 inch
          *MX6 5 spoke (95+) 15 inch

          GT Wheel Centercap Replacement:

          *LowGT's Method (LINK)
          I found that the chrome centercaps for a mazda RX8 fits the chrome swirlies perfectly. You can pick them up at a dealer for $7 a piece or online for as cheap as $4.50

          Part number L082-37-192
          Last edited by probesport_gt; September 12, 2005, 06:14 PM.
          ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
          No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
          ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

          Comment


          • #6
            ***2nd GEN BODY KITS***

            FRONT BUMPER OR LIP
            * AAS front
            * Battle "Z"
            * Blitz
            * Bomber 2
            * Bomex
            * Columbia Front
            * Columbia II Front
            * Corksport lip
            * Custom Performance Ltd. front
            * Custom RX7 front
            * Custom RX7 Type CW
            * CWest
            * CWest 2
            * Erebuni Shogun (same as Ninja)
            * Erebuni "Style 120" Lip
            * Evo Front
            * FX gen one lip
            * FX Series 2 lip
            * FX Rally Style Front
            * FX Series 2 Style Front
            * GT Bomber Front
            * Mach 1 Mustang Lip * Install Write-Up
            * MC Rally Lip
            * Millenium Front
            * Modified GT Front without Center support beam
            * Razzi Lip
            * Sensei front (original)
            * Sensei V2
            * Speedster Front
            * SWATT (3-piece lip)
            * Wings West Custom (Travis Williams)
            * Xenon Front Lip
            * Z24 Front Lip * Install Write-Up

            SIDE SKIRTS
            * AAS Sides (original)
            * AAS Sides (current version)
            * Bomber 2 Sides
            * Columbia Sides & Door Caps
            * Custom MR2 Vented Side Skirts
            * Custom Performance Ltd. Sides & Door Caps
            * Erebuni "Style 120" Sides
            * FX Gen 1 Sides
            * GT Bomber Sides
            * JC Whitney Universal Sides
            * Millenium Sides
            * Ninja Sides
            * Razzi Sides
            * Schreiter Tuning (German "FX Designs-Combat" knockoffs)
            * Shogun Sides
            * Sensei Sides
            * Speedster Sides
            * Xenon Sides
            Last edited by probesport_gt; September 20, 2010, 06:01 PM.
            ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
            No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
            ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

            Comment


            • #7
              REAR BUMPER OR ADD-ON
              * AAS Rear Bumper
              * Battle Z Rear
              * Blitz Rear
              * Bomber 2
              * Columbia
              * Columbia II
              * Erebuni Shogun
              * Erebuni "Style 120" Lip
              * Fox-Tuning Rear
              * FX Triangles
              * FX X Dream
              * GT Bomber
              * Millenium
              * Ninja (shogun) Rear
              * Sensei
              * Sensei V2 (3-Piece Rear)
              * Sensei Modified aka Wes's old Rear
              * Speedster
              * Speedster Rear Lip (95-97)
              * Razzi Rear Lip
              * Veilside RX7 Invader Triangles
              * Xenon Rear



              ***2nd Gen Hoods, Fenders, & Others***

              HOODS
              * Aerogear Predator
              * CF OEM Style Hood
              * CF Scoote Hood
              * Custom Performance Ltd. Hood
              * Custom Scoops
              * Custom Vented Hoods
              * Fortier Hood
              * Onderground Bullfrog hood
              * Sensei SS Hood

              FENDERS
              * Bullet Fenders
              * CF Fenders
              * D1 Fenders
              * Laser Fenders
              * Z3 Fenders
              * Z3 w/ Vent Fenders


              HEADLIGHT CONVERSION & COVERS
              * Corksport Vented Headlight Cover
              * ProbeAddiction Headlight Conversion (with or without Angel Eyes)
              * Custom Performance Ltd. Headlight Conversion


              MIRRORS
              * ProbeAddiction M3 Mirrors (powered or non-powered)
              * ProbeAddiction LED M3 Mirrors (powered or non-powered)
              * 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse M3 Mirrors (takes modification.. please search)
              * 94-01 Acura Integra 2-Door M3 Mirrors (takes less modification.. please search)
              * 94-01 Acura Integra 2-Door SLR Mirrors (takes modification.. please search)


              VERTICAL DOORS
              * ProbeAddiction "Lambo" Door Converstion Kit
              * GT Factory "Universal" Diablo Door Kit



              __________________________________________________ ___________

              *** FORD PROBE GALLERY ***


              * Ford Probe Custom Gallery #1

              * Ford Probe Custom Gallery #2

              * Ford Probe Custom Gallery #3

              Note:
              All of these galleries were put together by
              saginawjuggalo here on probetalk and are just awesome. These will keep you busy for hours looking through all the pictures. These include pics of just about anything that has been done to a probe. Body kits, headlights, taillights, paint, wheels, etc. As far as most of the body kits, there are a lot of custom ones from overseas. If you don't see it in the links above, it's custom. Don't come asking where you can purchase one from!
              Last edited by probesport_gt; September 20, 2010, 06:15 PM.
              ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
              No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
              ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

              Comment


              • #8
                EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT BODY KITS!!!
                ~From KidGT (Noah)
                There have been a lot of closed posts on this subject so i decided to take care of it once and for all.

                Welcome to Body Kit 101:
                So you want your car to look cooler well youve come to the right place. There are several kits out there but before we get to those there are several different things you need to know first.

                Looks:
                Thats the whole point of these things. Unlike the honda crowd there arent hundreds of different styles out there to choose from but what weve go aint that shabby.

                When you begin thinking about purchasing a kit you need to do some reaserch. Your off to a good start by reading this.

                1) First search the pic post for some shots of the kit actually on a car. its gonna look differnt if you just see it sitting on a table in the shop.

                2) Go outside and take a good look at you car. Think about how it will look on your car beacuse youre going to be investing a lot of time and money into this thing. So if you have any doubts this would be a good place to stop.

                3) To each they're own. Just because one person says a kit looks bad doesnt mean everyone thinks the same. Sure theyre are some exceptions, but if you like it go for it. originality wins points in the end.

                Fitment:
                ODDS ARE YOUR KIT WONT FIT RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX!!!
                it doesnt matter where you buy it from you should go in expecting this. most places have a no return policy. if you plan on pulling a diy i suggest you have somebody around who knows bodywork. if not its best to take it to a reputable shop. just ask around in you poc forum or at your local performance shop. Its gonna cost more but you'll be happier with the finished product. if you know what youre doing [img]images/smilies/icon_tup.gif[/img] to you.

                Should you get a fit that fits well pat yourself on the back. You got lucky. If youre llike the rest of us and the thing doesnt fit you may have a long road ahead of you. The majority of fitment issues happen with fronts and sideskirts.

                For bumpers:
                Most of the time you may just need to sand off a small portion of something, or add a little fiberglass and bondo around the headlight area. The tabs that help you connect it to the body may need strengthening or may not be there at all. There are some extreme cases tho. For example Wes (Probesport_GT) had to cut off the top of his oem bumper and attach it to the bottom half of hiskit to get it to fit. This is an extreme case tho so dont let it scare you.

                Sideskirts:
                Most of the problems ive heard of stem from having it be to thin. in this case just add a little fiberglass to the inside to strengthen it. Others it may just require some sanding to get it to fit correctly.

                Hoods:
                Often forgoten because theyre only two or three good looking ones out there. Not to many fitment issues either. mostly just sanding to fit. also not that only one hood i know of bolts to the hood hinges so you'll need hood locks to keep it down. Most hoods are also made in carbon fiber if you want looks and weight reduction.

                On a final note if you plan on getting just a front bumper dont wait till you can afford the whole kit or at least sideskirts to go along with it. i know from personal experience that just the fron makes the car look akward so if at all possible try to stay away from it.

                Cost:
                So you decided on what to get. Now comes the shopping around for the best price. First place id look is the for sale forum. there is always a chance you might be able to pick up a used one or never used one for a good price. BONUS if its used than it was already fitted to a car so you dont need to worry about it!!
                Just because you have just enough money to get the kit doesnt mean its time to order yet. you need to consider other things in the price as well. Shipping for one can be brutal, if youre getting it done at a shop you need to worry about labor costs, if youre diy you'll need to have some extra to invest in bondo and fiberglass just incase the fitment is horrible, and after all this you still gotta get the damn things painted. so you should estimate about $200-$600 bones extra to get this done but it maybe less or maybe more it all depends.

                Where to buy from?:
                This question alos gets asked alot. Since there maybe only one company that makes a kit you may have no choice but to deal with them. Search for up to date info on where to buy from.

                Things to consider:
                Before you go out and buy this thing there are still yet more things you need you consider.

                1) Is this car you're daily driver? If so you might want to shy away. Maybe not the whole thing but just the front. You need to remember its fiberglass its not incredibly strong. Do you really want to put it through the punishment of your daily commute? One pot hole and BAM!!! A whole lot of crying and bitching ensues.

                2) Where do you live? This goes back to the whole daily driver thing. Live out in the country? just watch out on dirt roads for flying rocks. Live in the city? Pot holes everywhere!! Lots of cars jammed in close together = Plenty of chances for accident. Suburbia? Speed bumps and gutters at the bottom of the driveway all = SCRAPE!! The worst sound ever. Live in Minnesota? You'll have the fastest snowplow in the city.

                Getting it all together:
                Well you ordered you're kit and its here. If you going the shop route take it in, and sit back and relax till its done. Should you be diy heres where the challenge begins. Like I said earlier if you get lucky and get one that fits the install is pretty straight forward. My arms are getting cramped so ill add some install info later.
                If you kit doesn’t fit address the problem areas. Odds are if you search someones already had the same problem as you and you can just pm them or whatever and ask for advice. This is usually the part where the bondo comes in.
                So when you’ve got it all fitted don’t be happy yet be happy but you're not done yet. Paint time. Now some people will fit the kit then get it painted then put it on the car. I think that defeats the purpose. Odds are you'll scratch it or whatever putting it on. I would, like others, fit it, install it, then get it and the immediate area around it painted. If you're going to mold it on (make it look like its part of the car) you don’t have any other choices.

                Paint
                To many factors to get into this subject. Check in your local area for estimates on getting your kit of choice painted.

                Last edited by probesport_gt; September 13, 2005, 07:04 PM.
                ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
                No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
                ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

                Comment


                • #9
                  300 ZX Headlight How-to:

                  The very first part of the install process is to park the vehicle on a level surface. It is also helpful if the ground underneath your working area is cement or some other smooth surface where it would be easy to see any screws etc. that might fall during the install process. Please be advised that cutting of the stock headlight fixtures will be necessary. The first step we took when completing this mod was gathering all required materials. The first thing you will need to purchase is the think clear plexiglass. The thickness you by will depend on the tools and materials you have. However, in general the thinner you go the easier it will be to fabricate the covers for the lights. Once you have the plexiglass the next step will be to cut out the general shape of the two headlight covers.

                  Once you have cut out the general shapes the next step will be to mold each piece to the same curves of the factory headlight covers. Do this by simply placing each piece of plexiglass over the covers and applying even heat from a heat gun to the entire piece. Once the pieces warm up you will then be able to easily bend them to conform with the factory headlight covers. Once you have reached this desired shape you can then cut off all the excess so that the plexiglass cover is not the exact same shape as the factory covers are.

                  Finish the pieces by wet sanding and smoothing the edges to a nice glass smooth finish.

                  Now with the easier parts done with the harder parts will begin. Once more we highly recommend being sure you want to do this before you begin. You will now be cutting the factory headlamp covers and will not be able to reverse this action once started. Now that you have the new covers made out of your plexiglass you can now begin to cut the opening for the headlights directly into the factory covers.
                  Complete this by masking the outside edge of each cover with a 1" diameter masking tape. Then you may begin to cut out the inside metal (We chose to use a dremel tool for its ease of use). Before you start be absolutely sure than you left at least a 1" diameter around the outside of the entire headlight cover. You will need this in order to mount your new plexiglass cover onto.

                  Once you have completed both headlight covers you now will have full access to the inner headlight workings. If you have not already done so, you must now remove the factory headlight bulbs and also remove the plastic cover holding them in place. After all excess has been cleared away you will now need to begin the hardest part of the entire installation. With either some aluminum sheeting or fiberglass (choice is entirely up to you) you will now need to construct the inner workings of the lights. For this install we chose to simply use some aluminum sheeting for its ease of use. What you will need to construct is a metal fitment that will hold both headlights in place while also giving your lights a finished and flush mount appearance.

                  After completing the above mentioned step you will need to remove the fuse that raises and lowers the headlights. It is labeled "retra". Should not be that hard to find and the headlights should not raise once this has been removed.

                  The next step of the install is to purchase a good pair of driving lights such as PIAA lights.
                  -The exact lights you choose to install is entirely your choice, however be sure they are driving lights and not just fog lights or else you will have poor night vision. Before you begin installing the light it is important to "test fit them" to be sure they all fit in snuggly. You will then need to continue by fabricating a bracket that the new driving lights can mount to (unless this is provided with your lights). This can be completed easily with the addition of a few metal brackets behind the lights.

                  After you have fabricated this structure the next thing to do is mount the lights and make all electrical connections as outlined in the instructions of your new lights. Test them all to make sure they are all working. Your high beams and low beams should bother be working properly and independent from each other.

                  The next part of the install is to paint all brackets behind the lamps and inside the casing to match up with the rest of your body. Unless you are comfortable seeing the metal brackets a different color than your cars body.

                  The final step in the install is to remount the plexiglass covers overtop of the headlight covers. They should fit nice and snug since you took the time earlier to mold them to the exact shape. You can now install them by either screwing them in to the covers with fine screws or better yet you can glue them together with some good PVC glue or silicone.

                  Finally, before attaching the plexiglass covers test the lamps on a flat surface to make sure the bulbs all line up correctly.
                  -You can do this by simply parking your car on a flat and level surface and shining the lights on a wall at least 15 feet away. Both headlight beams should hit the wall at the same height and angle. If this is not the case you will need to adjust the lights so that they are even. Next, install the plexiglass covers and your done!!! Go and take out your car for a drive and watch the amount of looks you will now be getting from other Probe owners!

                  ~Thanks Tweaked for the write-up

                  -------------------------------------------------------------------------

                  How to guide including pictures (on CarDomain)
                  Last edited by saginawjuggalo; December 29, 2005, 08:13 PM.
                  ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
                  No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
                  ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    How to Install Indiglo Gauges:

                    1) Start by removing your instrument cluster.
                    2) Go to the back of your instrument cluster and remove the low fuel indicator module by removing the two screws holding it and disconecting the data cable.
                    3) Remove all of the screws in the back of the instrument cluster. Make sure not to loose any, because if you do, the gauge will not function.
                    4) Remove the trim around the instrument cluster. Then remove the individual gauge assemblies.
                    5) CAREFULLY fit the overlay onto the individual assembies one at a time. Make sure to attatch it using double sided tape found at any CVS or walgreens. If you don't, needles will get stuck.
                    6) Now place everything back into the white pod and replace all the screws and the low fuel indicator module.
                    7) Make a hole for the power cord in the trim that goes around the cluster.
                    8) **OPTIONAL** For a cool effect you can color the needles red, or any color of your choice with a sharpie.
                    9) Replace all the trim that went around the cluster and they're on!
                    10) Now you have to tap into a power source to get them to light up. The best power source is the light for the ciggarette lighter.
                    11) Replace the instrument cluster and enjoy!!

                    How to Install a Leather Shift Boot:

                    Tools:

                    Phillips screw driver Parts:
                    RR-Racing shift boot

                    Misc:
                    Rubber cement or another adhesive

                    Installation:
                    1) Make shure Handbrake is pulled up. Remove center console by pulling up starting at the front and working your way back.
                    2) Once console is removed flip it over and you will see a white plastic ring with four screws underneath the stock shift boot. REMOVE these four screws and pull the whole assembly out.
                    3) You will need to seperate the old shift boot from this ring for use on your new boot.
                    4) Now you want to dry fit the new boot onto the old ring so that you can get the proper alignment.
                    5) Next place a bead of adhesive or sealant arount the edge of the plastic ring and install the new boot over the top of the ring.
                    6) You will need to remove the plastic washer from the old boot and glue it to the new boot also.
                    7) Let everything dry for the amount of time specified by the product your using.
                    8) Reinstall everything just like you took it apart and enjoy your new look.!


                    ~Thanks Tweaked for the write-ups
                    Last edited by probesport_gt; September 12, 2005, 06:03 PM.
                    ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
                    No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
                    ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Window Glass, Rear Quarter Removal & Installation

                      Supplies:
                      Rotunda Interior Auto Glass Cut-Out Knife Kit 164-R2450 or equivalent.
                      Razor Blade Knife
                      Shop Towels
                      Installation Kit E0AZ-19562-A


                      Procedure:

                      Removal:
                      1. Remove the center body pillar inside upper finish panel.
                      2. Remove the six push tabs from the quarter pillar trim panel.
                      3. Carefully pull the quarter pillar trim panel away from the body to disengage the clips.
                      4. Remove the quarter trim panel.
                      5. Insert a screwdriver under the coat hook cover, release the retainer spring and remove the coat hook cover.
                      6. Pull down the roof headlining enough to keep it out of the way when cutting out the quarter window glass.
                      7. Apply protective tape along the exposed edge of the roof headlining.
                      8. Lubricate the urethane with soapy water to aid the Rotunda Interior Auto Glass Cut-Out Knife Kit 164-R2450 or equivalent when cutting out the quarter window glass. WARNING: TO PREVENT GLASS SPLINTERS FROM ENTERING THE EYES OR CUTTING HANDS, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAVY GLOVES WHEN CUTTING THE GLASS FROM THE VEHICLE.

                      CAUTION: Do not damage the rear quarter glass moldings when cutting the urethane. The rear quarter glass moldings cannot be replaced separately from the quarter window glass.

                      9. Use Rotunda Interior Auto Glass Cut-out Knife Kit 164-R2450 or equivalent to cut out the quarter window glass. Carefully insert the blade into the urethane. Slowly work the glass cutter around the quarter window glass.

                      10. Gently push the quarter window glass outward 12.7mm (0.5 inch) from the inside of the vehicle to ensure that the urethane seal is broken.
                      11. Use a razor blade knife to cut any remaining urethane that is still holding the quarter window glass.
                      12. Remove the quarter window glass from the vehicle.
                      13. Use a suitable tool to remove all of the old urethane from the pinch weld of the vehicle.
                      CAUTION: Do not remove the locating pins when removing the old urethane from the quarter window glass. If the quarter window glass is to be reused, use a razor blade knife to remove the old urethane from the quarter window glass.

                      Installation:
                      Note: Keep the quarter window glass and body surfaces free of dirt, water, and oil.


                      1. Clean the inside of the quarter window glass thoroughly.
                      2. Apply Urethane Glass Wipe or equivalent in a 25.4mm (1.0 inch) wide application around the entire outer edge of the inside of the quarter window glass. Immediately wipe the cleaner off the quarter window glass. WARNING: IF PRIMER GETS ON YOUR HANDS, REMOVE IT IMMEDIATELY
                      3. Apply Urethane Glass Primer or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSB-M2G314-B in a 25.4mm (1.0 inch) wide application around the entire outer edge of the inside of the quarter window glass. Allow 3-5 minutes drying time for the primer.
                      4. Apply Urethane Metal Primer or equivalent to the pinch weld of the vehicle. Allow approximately 30 minutes of drying time for the primer.
                      5. Cut the nozzle of the urethane dispensing canister so that it will lay a bead of urethane 12mm (0.47 inch) high and 5mm (0.19 inch) wide.
                      6. Lay a uniform bead of urethane on the pinch weld 12mm (0.47 inch) high and 5mm (0.19 inch) wide. Ensure that the bead of urethane is smooth and even. If necessary, reshape the bead with a suitable tool.
                      7. Open the front door window glass to prevent the quarter window glass from being pushed out by air pressure if a front door (20125) is closed.
                      8. Align the locating pins and lift the quarter window glass into position. Push in lightly on the quarter window glass to compress the urethane.
                      9. Clean any excess urethane sealant from the quarter window glass or pinch weld.
                      10. Remove the protective tape and push the roof headlining into place.
                      11. Install the coat hook cover.
                      12. Install the quarter trim panel.
                      13. Install the quarter pillar trim panel and the six push tabs.
                      14. Install the center body pillar inside upper finish panel and the quarter pillar trim panel.


                      CAUTION: Allow all rear quarter glass parts installed with urethane ample time to cure.
                      Note: Use only urethane to after-seal all air and water leaks.


                      15. After the urethane has properly cured, check the quarter window glass for water leaks. If a leak is found, dry the area completely and add urethane where needed.


                      Last edited by probesport_gt; September 12, 2005, 06:08 PM.
                      ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
                      No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
                      ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Common Valve Cover Swaps:

                        *Mazda 2.0 (4cyl) Valve Cover

                        *
                        Mazda 2.5 (V6) Front Valve Cover

                        *Mazda 2.5 (V6) Millienia Front Valve Cover
                        Last edited by probesport_gt; September 20, 2010, 05:53 PM.
                        ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
                        No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
                        ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          HOW TO REPAIR RUST SPOTS:

                          To start with your gonna need some Fiberglass sheeting .....they come in lil zip lock sized bags and look basicly like white cloth...in that same section there will be a bottle of somethin called Resin ...you need that...it should come with Hardiner inside the plastic cap ontop.....also while your there pick up some Bondo wich also should come with its own hardiner cream, (ask to make sure cuz it would be stupid to go home without hardiner). While your in the isle you should also pick up some Glaze compound or Spot Putty ....they call it both...its for filling pinholes in your Bondo. While your there you better pick up a Bondo Application kit it consists of a trowel and a mixing stick, yes it seems trivial but dont be a smart ass and think you can do it with a normal trowel..you cant...the Bondo trowel is specaily made for flex and non stick...GET IT..YOU NEED IT also get some Laquer Thinner Pronounced LACK-ER THIN-ER your gonna need it to clean your hands and car...cuz nothin else will. Before you leave dont forget the Sandpaper your gonna need to start with a rough grit...120 180..dosnt really matter what you start with as long as its rough....and you can get an inbetween step like 200-240 but you MUST have 400 grit for the finish...and dont try to save money buy JUST buying 400 grit...it will take you years to finish if you do that. If you have some extra money kicken around wich i doubt you do by now, you might also consider picking up a Body file Just speeds things up a bit in some places....no better finish. Paint/Primer/Clear Coat if your gonna do it yourself.


                          Summary of Supplies:
                          Fiberglass sheeting
                          Resin
                          Bondo
                          Glazing compound or Spot putty Bondo aplication kit
                          Laquer Thinner
                          Sandpaper
                          Body file
                          Paint/Clearcoat Primer

                          Since your still reading you must be feeling brave [img]images/smilies/icon_tup.gif[/img] your about to embark on journy of annoyance but great payoff in the end [img]images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]


                          I have a rust spot

                          Easy- Alright take a 100-200 grit sandpaper and sand the spot in circular motion untill you can see silver metal, tap on it with a sharp object (nail and hammer) but not hard enough to make a dent....if the nail dosnt go thru then ur ok.. nail does go thru? See HARD section below ..Simply tape the surrounding area off and spray a shot of primer over the silver, take 400 grit sandpaper and sand lightly, not taking off the primer...but smoothing it so you cant feel any roughness. Take some color match paint and simply spray the area.
                          (Color match paint can be found at any large hardware store, match the color code of your car *sticker on the inside of the driverside door*) (before spraying make sure you read spray directions on back of spray can, you should be spraying back and forith over the same section at least 7 times before you get the right thickness...the key is very THIN coats) After you spray the area to your likeing take the tape off, WAIT for the paint to dry at LEAST 1 hour....you'll notice no matter how close you matched the paint it wont look perfect...and it never will unless you take it to a shop...anyway..now to blend it better YES with the tape off...spray the clear coat over the part you just painted feathering to the sides (pulling back with the spray can) its ok to overlap onto the original paint a lil bit...this will help blend even more *assuming your car is clean*



                          GENERAL RULES
                          If your outside Dont paint your car on a cloudy day...its not good, makes the paint thick and sticky...no fun to work with....if its a sunny day make sure you do the painting in the shade yes yes..i know its all very wierd but this will help you get the best finish...also..avoid windy areas...if somthing small should stick to your car it will be magnified x200 once shiney paint is on it. Spray paint gets EVERYWHERE especally if your doing it right....make sure you cover your car with an old sheet or somethin on the side your painting and when you tape the area your workin on off....have a look before you spray...What is that paint gonna hit?....your new rims?...turn signals?..window?...use normal masking tape and newspaper to cover general area's and an old bed sheet or somethin for anything else your worried about....garbage bags work great for the tires. if you should happen to get paint on somethin you didnt want to...use Laqure thinner to get it off.....put it on a rag and wipe.....wash area with water after.

                          Cont. in next post...
                          ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
                          No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
                          ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hard

                            Alright shity deal...the nail went thru huh? so now your left with this big shiney patch and a hole, well not all is lost..here's your big chance to kill that rust forever.....see that spot you sanded....you know....just the rusty spot, make that silver patch at least twice as big.....your gonna need to if you wanna get rid of that crap for good. the next step is to take some metal sheers if there is ALOT of rust..and cut it all off untill you KNOW that its just good metal....you dont want any rust now, cuz it will come back if you dont get it. If you dont have metal sheers...or the hole is to small...simply sand away in that hole untill you have smooth silver edges all the way around. Ok on to bondo, if your hole is relativly small then your not gonna need to put fiberglass sheeting over it. Small as in really small like my mouse arrow type small any bigger than that and your still readin..lol. Alright so you sanded a bigger area and you have cut/sanded the hole so you got nothin but shiney metal around great...time for the fiberglass sheeting, when you cut your sheeting to size its important to make it have overlap, you cant just stick a lil pice near the hole...you have to get enough overlap for stability (thats why you sanded that extra area) Anyway....read the resin instructions and your hardiner and mix...dip your Pre-Cut piece of fiberglass sheeting into your mix..make sure you get it all nice and wet (you may want to wear gloves) take it out and kinda push all the excess goop off..its just gonna make your job harder later...as long as your fiberglass piece in your hand isnt white anymore..your good to go. Now just place your Fiberglass over the hole making sure that you have a decent overlap on each side of it, it should take a few min to get really sticky...when you do this MAKE SURE....that the fiberglass dips into your hole a lil bit...not a lot...but it cannot be level with the rest of your car panel your gonna need a slight dip in in to finish this properly. let it dry for a half hour.

                            On to the bondo, mix your bondo on a small piece of glass (is the best thing) or something hard and flat....read the bondo instructons and mix as directed...it dosnt really matter how much hardiner you put in...the more you put in the faster it will harden....dont put to little in though...that will take to long. Mixed? good ok now take your bondo trowel get some bondo on the leading edge and smear it onto the fiberglass making sure you overlap each fiberglass edge by about 3 quarters of an inch less....more.... just make sure you overlap it. Keep applying bondo untill you cant see the fiberglass anymore and your edges are overlaped, it dosnt have to look all pretty so dont worry about it, and yea member that dip you made in your fiberglass...well once you applied the bondo you should make it level with the rest of your bondo...and your bondo should end up about 3 paper widths above your regular paint surface..more is good...10 paper widths if you want...just means more sanding for you wait an hour for the bondo to dry completly. [Yes while your doing this you will have to mix your bondo repeatedly cuz it will dry on you....no problem...and yes you can apply your new batch of bondo to your bondo thats already on the car dry or not] When your done and satisfied let your bondo dry for an hour. Ok now take your sandpaper 100-120 grit and sand your bondo down yes you can press on it...go ahead..GET MAD!...anyway sand it down and make sure you feather the edges as in..make sure you cant feel the transition from your paint to bondo expeccialy on the leading edges, sand it untill its relativly smooth and then break out the 400 grit sandpaper for the finishing....yes go over your edges again....sand this untill its so smooth you can run your hand across it and not feel the diference between that and paint (in this case your hands are better eyes than your eyes)......ok now that its sanded, tape off the area surrounding your bondo, cover your car, your rims..blah blah blah...now take your primer and give it a shot over the bondo...good...now wait for the paint to dry wont take long....now go back and look...see all those lil ugly holes and that dip you didnt fill right? Imagin that with shiney paint Ewww. Anyway take your Spot putty, read the instructions and then proceed to apply to those lil holes and dips in your bondo..I use the edge of an exacto knife to apply my spot putty....you dont need to much..just fill the holes.....wait for it to dry...and sand again, repeat as necessary Primer..spot putty...sand...untill your satisfied...now take your car to a shop to get painted...or go back up to the last thread to see how to do it yourself!
                            Last edited by probesport_gt; September 13, 2005, 07:09 PM.
                            ------------------------Wes Fenton------------------------
                            No longer a probe owner, but I'm still a probe enthusiast!
                            ----------I can't believe I made it to 9 Myrtles!!!----------

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              HOW TO PA M3 Mirror Install:

                              Originally posted by NYPGT96
                              Ok, so there's no wiring diagrams or how-to's on this and I don't know where else to put this. I hope it's ok that this thread goes in here (if not, please move this thread and I apologize in advance!): Just so everyone knows, this install was done on a 93 Probe GT. Any and all advice is given freely with no expressed and/or implied consent or warranty that this is going to absolutely work for everyone. Install at your own risk. I assume no liability!

                              PA M3 Mirror Install:

                              Tools required:
                              splicer/crimper
                              electrical tape
                              razor blade
                              test light (if you want to...by me writing this I am eliminating the fact that you need to find the power wire)
                              wire connectors (of your choice...ie: butt connectors or those female-female connectors or quick connects, whatever)
                              marker/crayon/color pencil (whatever floats your boat)
                              small amount of time
                              M3 mirrors (Mine are from PA so wiring may differ) <---I hope that I am not advertising!!!!

                              Install:
                              1. Remove door panel (should be self-explanatory).
                              2. Bolt mirror to exterior of window. May take some fenagling but make sure it sits flush. I had to line up the base plate and drill one extra hole cuz one did not sit exactly at the hole I desired. I also increased the size of the hole that the wires go through. Just so you know; I was supplied with a total of five wires. One set was as follows: 1 black, 1 red, one white (mirror). The other set included a red and a black (led's).
                              3. Once mirror is aligned, run black and red intertwined wires behind door frame and through the wire grommet. Once through the door grommet, you can either try to get it through the grommet in the frame of the car or you can tap a hole through the frame (level with the grommet in the frame and run the wires through the interior grommet just above the interior fuse panel.
                              4. Now since I have not connected the led wires just yet, I will leave this part out for now. Onto the power mirror!!!
                              5. The harness that is connected to the door that was originally for your mirror harness, will be used to splice M3 Mirrors into. The following are the colors which line up to the colored wires on your new mirrors:
                              Driver Side:
                              Harness on the door Appropriate Mirror Wire
                              Brown with Yellow Stripe -------------------> Red Wire
                              Brown with Blue Rectangular Spots --------> Black Wire
                              Light Green with Red Rectangular Spots ---> White Wire

                              Passenger Side
                              Harness on the door Appropriate Mirror Wire
                              Brown with Black Stripe --------------------> Red Wire
                              Brown with Blue Rectangular Spots --------> Black Wire
                              Green with Black Stripe ---------------------> White Stripe

                              6. Now once you've done one side, hook up your driver side window switch and confirm wiring by testing mirror. Once you've confirmed that all functions of the mirror work, move on to the other mirror.
                              7. Now I am not sure about these as of yet, but I will get back to you. But the turn signals should be wire-able from the interior fuse panel. Look for the black with green stripe wire and that is connected to your red (led) wire. The black wire goes to ground (use the frame for best ground). I will confirm wire color and ground ASAP.
                              8. Re-install door panel and go driving

                              The End!

                              If you have anything to add, please let me know. This is a trial and error thing. It worked for me and I don't know if it will work for you. Good luck and I hope this helps others!!!
                              -Steve
                              Last edited by c-man; February 13, 2007, 05:46 AM.
                              2015 Audi Q3 - Stock |
                              2017 Audi TTS - 034, Magnaflow |

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