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  • #31
    And I'm back!!!!
    Well, I have no idea how I got a x length bolt out of a space smaller than the length of the bolt.
    How the hell does the bottom pivot bolt go back in!!!!!!!
    1994 Probe GT - still going at 333,000 kms; 2004 Jeep Liberty; 2007 Harley Davidson Road King

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    • #32
      You have got to be kidding me. DId you not notice my highlighted remark up above. I tried to tell you that this thread was full of wrong information but you chose not to listen.
      Last edited by mac1; October 15, 2010, 02:29 AM.
      1993 Mercury tRacer :Vitara & mFactory: In progress 2020
      1994 Mercury TrAcer Wagon : '02 SPI swap : sold
      2014 Factory Five 818s: sold
      2000 Lotus esprit v8TT : 1st v8 on MS3x, ls1 coils,h20 injection
      1997 Nissan 200sx 1.6L : 35-39mpg the daily

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      • #33
        Originally posted by mac1 View Post
        You have got to be kidding me. DId you not notice my highlighted remark up above. I tried to tell you that this thread was full of wrong information but you chose not to listen.
        Mac, relax; it wouldn't matter which way the alternator came out.

        The bottom bolt is at least an inch longer than the space between the frame and the horn on the alternator!!!! The alternator is in place, it's trying to get the bolt back in that's the issue.

        How the bloody thing actually came out to begin with is a mystery. The alternator sits on the mount so tightly that getting it out was similiar to an explosive delivery of a baby and I confess I was more interested in ensuring that I didn't end up with an alternator on my face than watching how the bolt made it out.
        1994 Probe GT - still going at 333,000 kms; 2004 Jeep Liberty; 2007 Harley Davidson Road King

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        • #34
          I dont even think it should be possible to get a wrench on that bolt and not get stuck against the frame. I got to say I had a pretty good laugh at your expense reading this so I feel I need to apologize and tell you what you did wrong since noone reading this can comprehend what you did.
          Take the alternator back out and put the bolt back on it all the way till it's tight, then back it off 2 turns and then try putting the alternator back on. It's called a swivel bolt because you have to swivel/shimmy it in and out of the bracket. In other words that is why the mounting point has a open slot in it as the bolts slides into place while still attatched to the alternator.
          1993 Mercury tRacer :Vitara & mFactory: In progress 2020
          1994 Mercury TrAcer Wagon : '02 SPI swap : sold
          2014 Factory Five 818s: sold
          2000 Lotus esprit v8TT : 1st v8 on MS3x, ls1 coils,h20 injection
          1997 Nissan 200sx 1.6L : 35-39mpg the daily

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by mac1 View Post
            I dont even think it should be possible to get a wrench on that bolt and not get stuck against the frame. I got to say I had a pretty good laugh at your expense reading this so I feel I need to apologize and tell you what you did wrong since noone reading this can comprehend what you did.
            Take the alternator back out and put the bolt back on it all the way till it's tight, then back it off 2 turns and then try putting the alternator back on. It's called a swivel bolt because you have to swivel/shimmy it in and out of the bracket. In other words that is why the mounting point has a open slot in it as the bolts slides into place while still attatched to the alternator.
            Thanks mac. After much slot and bolt gazing I figured that it had to be something like that and I was going to try again tomorrow.

            Tonight I had a wobbly pop and watched the Canucks beat the Kings. Well, in my dream anyways.

            Buddy of mine just picked up an F350 with a 6.0 litre diesel and I was telling him about working on the probe. He said to me, "That's nothing. To work on the diesel it's easier to pull the cab off the frame than try and access anything through the engine compartment". Who dreams this stuff up???

            Tomorrow will be a bright new day. *lol*
            1994 Probe GT - still going at 333,000 kms; 2004 Jeep Liberty; 2007 Harley Davidson Road King

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            • #36
              wow wishi would have known about most these tips i did everything the hard way

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              • #37
                Well, its all done.

                Distributor, alternator. Flashed it up and unbelievably it ran.

                Left it running and after a bit it developed a miss so I jumpered the diagnostics to look for codes, and the miss went away.

                Bought another box of beer and stuck the car in the garage for the winter.

                Though you never know... some sunny day there may be a permit bought and a test run done to see if the CEL comes on again. *lol*

                Thanks again everyone for the tips and tricks.
                1994 Probe GT - still going at 333,000 kms; 2004 Jeep Liberty; 2007 Harley Davidson Road King

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by mac1 View Post
                  I dont even think it should be possible to get a wrench on that bolt and not get stuck against the frame. I got to say I had a pretty good laugh at your expense reading this so I feel I need to apologize and tell you what you did wrong since noone reading this can comprehend what you did.
                  Take the alternator back out and put the bolt back on it all the way till it's tight, then back it off 2 turns and then try putting the alternator back on. It's called a swivel bolt because you have to swivel/shimmy it in and out of the bracket. In other words that is why the mounting point has a open slot in it as the bolts slides into place while still attatched to the alternator.

                  Thats why i invested in a set of metric wratcheting wrenches....
                  Wratcheting wrenches=AMAZING. nuff said.
                  97' PGTS Completely rebuilt ZE at "117,1xx" 5-speed, HEI and blaster2, full header-back 2.5" magnaflow Fidanza w/ stage3 6puckhttp://tinypic.com/useralbum.php?ua=...12z5KxBA%3D%3D
                  1994 PGT that got me hooked on the probe game=SOLD! Gonna miss it. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&id=542616501

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                  • #39
                    You mean the "Alden" brand, I thought I was the only one in the world that ever bought a set.
                    1993 Mercury tRacer :Vitara & mFactory: In progress 2020
                    1994 Mercury TrAcer Wagon : '02 SPI swap : sold
                    2014 Factory Five 818s: sold
                    2000 Lotus esprit v8TT : 1st v8 on MS3x, ls1 coils,h20 injection
                    1997 Nissan 200sx 1.6L : 35-39mpg the daily

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      that's one good benefit of being (my dad and i) a former snap on employee , plenty of useful tools.
                      96 MX6 M Edition , V6 5 speed. 95 MX6,I4 manual - work in progress,but still DD . 94 626,V6 automatic - the family (wife's) car. 94 626 V6 auto ,parting out.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Hi everyone,

                        New to the forum. On my second 2nd gen Ford Probe GT. I'll tell you more about that in a more appropriate place though.

                        Sorry for necro-ing this thread but I couldn't find anything when I search TravisWilliamGT. Need to replace alternator, and can't get it out from the top. Found another guide that says I need to jack the car and remove the passenger side tire and splash panel to get at the lower alternator bolt. I guess that's in addition to removing rad fans, rad, or AC unit to get it out once the bolts are out. Is that all true?

                        Thanks so much for the help, any tips appreciated. Gotta work outside in the snow, not fun.

                        Glad to meet you all.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          I've replaced 3 alts now, I always do it from the bottom, found it pretty easy.

                          You loosen the centre nut on the tensioner and then lossen the 'top' bolt to take the tension off the belt. I do both of those from the top of the engine with a wrench for the centre bolt and ratchet for the top one.

                          While you're up top, unhook the wires/connectors going to the alt.


                          Then from beneath yes, slide the passenger portion of the splash guard out of the way (I fold it under the drive side) and you can remove the pass tire if you want. I've done it with this on though.

                          Then from underneath the car I just unbolted the A/C compressor with the 4 bolts and push it to the side as far as the lines will let it go. I think last time I did it I put a few blocks/bricks beside me to rest the compressor on.

                          From here I think its pretty easy to get to the bolts. And bam, out comes the alt.

                          ---

                          I've never once touched the rad/fan/hoses to change the alt.
                          1996 Probe GT - Bought April 2010, Boosted August 2014
                          Fast FC04 18x9, Black Leather, King6, ADDCO, AWR, Yonaka, Quad J30s, AVC Pipes, Tial WG, Greddy BOV, Aeromotive AFPR, MS1v3
                          1993 Probe GT - 110k, auto, parts car
                          2011 Impreza Limited Hatchback - Daily, Lowered, WRX Wheels & Wing

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                          • #43
                            Fantastic, thanks for the info and reassurance. I'm feeling confident in the procedure now. I'll try get to it tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

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                            • #44
                              The whole take the fans/radiator out is crap.
                              i always have to laugh when i hear stupid like this.


                              there is no problem with a necropost so long as it's beneficial to the thread. in this case, you were looking for advice on how to swap out the alternator.

                              i get why some people don't want to remove the fans or radiator. they feel it's more of an inconvenience than not, plus having to replace coolant. my personal preference is to remove the fans/radiator, since it's quicker for me to do that, pull it out, then replace after i'm done with the alternator.

                              of course, it helps that my batter tray isn't in the way either, but i can and have done it by suspending my a/c compressor as well. as noted in the thread, i really don't like having to subject a 20+ year old hose to more pressure and stress than is necessary, but it can definitely be done that way. the key is to properly secure the compressor.

                              anyhow, hope the thread helped. welcome to the board.
                              ProbeTalk is BACK! Once again, it's what you use the Internet for!

                              Let's get DANGEROUS!

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                              • #45
                                pull the radiator? The fans slide right out. Next time I do this job, I will make vid to add to my collection.
                                Last edited by mac1; February 5, 2014, 09:18 PM.
                                1993 Mercury tRacer :Vitara & mFactory: In progress 2020
                                1994 Mercury TrAcer Wagon : '02 SPI swap : sold
                                2014 Factory Five 818s: sold
                                2000 Lotus esprit v8TT : 1st v8 on MS3x, ls1 coils,h20 injection
                                1997 Nissan 200sx 1.6L : 35-39mpg the daily

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