Price Gouging

[KaedenKy]

someone close this thread


Seller:
Everyone has the right to charge whateva they want for a part gouge or not


Buyer:
just like you have the right to buy or not to buy


disclaimer:if you don't like the price either go to the JY and find it yourself or
find the part number and buy it new from the dealer


each side of the coin has a choice so stop crying and bytchin about it

This so much. I see the same thing on 944 forums. I paid 3000 for the car, why do you want xyz for abc part. Well, because I have it. If you want it, pay. If not go get one yourself else where.

For me personally, to the time and hassle to ship it has often made met lose cash. Not that I am trying to make money, but people will be like I want to pay for that part at a price that after shipping makes you .50 cents. My time costs money.

[BLUEnoEQ]

KLZEEscortGT you yourself admit you get more power and torque and some sort of detectable better gas mileage in spite of your right foot. My check engine light is on when running the MAF swap, I still get more power and better gas mileage with the MAF swap over the 95 DE ECU. If you are 100% CEL free running the MAF swap then you're in a position to test whether it puts the car in limp mode and wastes fuel or not. Which you haven't. My scanner tells me the codes (all swap related,) and I can watch engine functions, power is there, I haven't ever hit a rev limiter caused by any limp mode. I daily the car, up until about a week ago, (alternator trouble,) no trouble winding it out past where there is power though. I didn't install a map sensor either, bought the harness for the ECU, made the underhood harness myself all plug and play. All I can do is test it again when the weather is nicer. I 100% understand your points, but you haven't even taken the time to prove it makes a difference, which I suspect is because there is no difference.

[P1P]

As for closing the thread just because it hurts your butt, you've got people on both sides of the discussion and this has been the most traffic to a particular thread in months, so that doesn't make much sense.

ya'll crying like little girls on your first period

nothing is getting solved in this thread and it's not gonna get solved just a bunch of useless back and forth whinning.


like I said before a seller can sell a part for what he wants bottom line

you as a buyer has a choice either pay his price or move on it's just that simple



---------- Post added at 02:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------

Only moral here is you should not act like a dick

lol

[KLZE Porsche]

Wasn't referring to you. Seeing as how I purchased the wheel at your price. Nice try though.

Thank you all for lessons in haggling and how forums work in general, where would the world be without brains like yours to guide us? Jesus, some of you get in your feelings way too easy. My point the entire time has been to ask others to pay what you'd pay. Honestly, who doesn't think that's a good way to go about things?

As for closing the thread just because it hurts your butt, you've got people on both sides of the discussion and this has been the most traffic to a particular thread in months, so that doesn't make much sense.

Moral of the story: Don't be a Richard.

I don't understand what your point of this thread is. If I don't like a price someone has for an item -I don't buy it from them. If they truly are asking more for the part than it is worth -then others won't buy it either. And either they will never sell it -or they will eventually reduce the price to a reasonable one.

However -the part I do not understand is your inability to move on without starting an entire thread about it. There are obviously other sellers. There are obviously other sources (JY, EB, etc...) and so it makes no sense to make a rant thread about it that will likely result in flame-age.

[KLZEEscortGT]

KLZEEscortGT you yourself admit you get more power and torque and some sort of detectable better gas mileage in spite of your right foot. My check engine light is on when running the MAF swap, I still get more power and better gas mileage with the MAF swap over the 95 DE ECU. If you are 100% CEL free running the MAF swap then you're in a position to test whether it puts the car in limp mode and wastes fuel or not. Which you haven't. My scanner tells me the codes (all swap related,) and I can watch engine functions, power is there, I haven't ever hit a rev limiter caused by any limp mode. I daily the car, up until about a week ago, (alternator trouble,) no trouble winding it out past where there is power though. I didn't install a map sensor either, bought the harness for the ECU, made the underhood harness myself all plug and play. All I can do is test it again when the weather is nicer. I 100% understand your points, but you haven't even taken the time to prove it makes a difference, which I suspect is because there is no difference.

YES, I will most definitely get better gas mileage as I have NO cel on with my swap (because it's not in limp mode). I seriously doubt you are seeing better mileage with the computer in limp mode and the cel on. Yes it will pull harder to redline with the cel on because twopedalwarrior dynoed his mx6 before and after the swap (which he is also running scotts harness and has the cel on), the numbers on 3 pulls after the swap were a gain of 12-15 whp. So YES most definitely the swap (with the cel on) will pull harder, but gas mileage is shit and hp/tq numbers are not as great as they could potentially be.

And the only way I can prove this theory 100% is to get my car dynoed before and after the swap, which I fully intend to get done once I perfect my swap harness. I'm still sorting out a few small things, and as you know from attempting to build your own harness it's very time consuming. But once it's all said and done I will without any doubt prove myself with dyno numbers!!

Also on another note my arguments with scott and twopedal warriors dyno numbers are posted here https://forums.probetalk.com/showthr...p?t=1701296769

[SBPGT]

And the only way I can prove this theory 100% is to get my car dynoed before and after the swap, which I fully intend to get done once I perfect my swap harness.

100% would be to dyno your car before and after the vaf swap, but you would have to dyno your harness and his harness to prove which is better. Not just a dyno of your car stock and then your harness/VAF swap.

Comparing a dyno from another car with similar or exact mods to your dyno means nothing. It has to be on the same car, same dyno, and there can still be variances between each run.

[twopedalwarrior]

The CEL for the MAF swap doesn't put it in limp mode, at least not for me. ATX Codes down't trigger any modification to timing or fuel trims. There are alerts for the rear car sensors but again that is only for reading emissions, not limp mode corolation.

Additionally, I got higher gains that 12-15+ dyno

[BLUEnoEQ]

I've seen the arguments in the other thread. Nothing more informative than what's here. I agree with SBPGT, if you want to prove a difference you'd either have to use one of Pile's harnesses or simulate. The only o2 codes I have are for the heater part of the circuit, evap, fuel tank and transmission. I currently have a p1195 but that's from the last time I was messing with the intake. It had no check engine light with my DE ECU when I compared vaf-maf. With a Millenia ECU, all I can find is a 2500rpm limiter for transmission issues.

[KLZEEscortGT]

So both of you guys are running MAP sensors?

Because as far as I'm aware that harness doesn't use one.

[BLUEnoEQ]

No map sensor on mine.

[KLZEEscortGT]

Well unfortunately a map sensor is one of the major sensors that those ecu's would be looking for. So no map sensor equals limp mode. It would be the same as taking the maf, tps or crank out of the situation. Pcm pours the fuel to it ( because it can't accurately measure the amount of air entering the engine) to prevent detonation, and an engine that is running rich is not as efficient as it's supposed to be.

As for the duplication of Scott's harness that would not be difficult as all I'd need to do is unplug the map and cause the cel to come on and run in limp mode.

[fordprobegt67]

Steering wheel (no airbag) @ PNP: $11
Steering wheel (no airbag) as quoted from a member here: $85

dam i guess i shoulda sold my steering wheel for more than $20 shipped lol

[BLUEnoEQ]

I had all the EGR stuff hooked up and presumably working fine. No MAP, so yeah I have no idea how that is run through the harness or not but I didn't have issues. It gets along fine with MAF and IAT.

[Mr Man]

dam i guess i shoulda sold my steering wheel for more than $20 shipped lol

haha, troof

[pile_of_rd1]

And Scott (pile of rd1), it's funny you should comment seeing as how I spent good money with you and actually DID throw in parts for free. Would you trade one of your custom harnesses for an ash tray lid and a wiper switch? Because the prices equal out.

That RIGHT there is EXACTLY what I was waiting for. One of the biggest persons to overcharge on PT for those crap harness' that consume more gas than it would if it was left stock and also leaves the cel on all the time!!!![/QUOTE]

**** you. I've spent my time finding these cars to cut the harness ends off, or cut ecus apart for the socket. You think that's free?? You think 2 hrs of soldering is free shipping? You don't know what the **** you're talking about, you don't even have one of the harnesses to say anything about it. Quit talkin shit you broke bitch.