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  • Basic Maintenance Recommendations for New Owner(s)

    So i've been thinking about what im going to do with my tax return when the time comes around...
    I was just wondering if you guys would give me a list of things that should probably be replaced in a probe bought off the side of the road.
    spark plugs, ect...

    order from most important to least.

    Budget: about $1000 return
    There are 2 types of pedestrians, the quick and the dead.

    “A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.”

  • #2
    93 octane fuel in the tank. Lulz.

    I'd replace the exhaust completely, depending on condition, and maybe have a partial engine rebuild. I don't know what shape yours is in, but it couldn't hurt.

    A new clutch might not hurt as well, or you could just buy enough spare parts to assemble another Probe. xD
    1990 Ford Probe LX 3.0L V6

    Comment


    • #3
      it's a 91 lx.

      i think the exaust is fine....i was just meaning like what should i get done to it as a basic tune up of sorts...i dont have any mechanical experience. this car needs to last me awhile...500 dollars i payed for it but it's going to be my daily driver....i did look into the exaust just because i wanted to beef up the sound a little bit
      There are 2 types of pedestrians, the quick and the dead.

      “A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.”

      Comment


      • #4
        You don't have any mechanical experience?
        In that case, I have two options to start:

        First, the cheaper of the two: Buy a Haynes repair manual and go through Chapter 1.

        Second, the slightly more expensive option: Take it to a reputable mechanic to give it a once over and provide you a list of priority repairs.
        Pr0n - my Anti-Drug.
        1G FAQ - A MUST READ for 1G's! ~ 1990 PGL = WRECKED! & Sold! ~ 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
        "Let me hear you make decisions without your television."

        Enjoy PT? Support it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by anomaly View Post
          You don't have any mechanical experience?
          In that case, I have two options to start:

          First, the cheaper of the two: Buy a Haynes repair manual and go through Chapter 1.

          Second, the slightly more expensive option: Take it to a reputable mechanic to give it a once over and provide you a list of priority repairs.
          I would agree, especially with the first. It depends on how much you want to learn and whether you have a place to work or not. You might be able to get a shop manual on ebay for cheap; that's how I got mine, but it was a few years ago. If you want to learn, read all the way through the book, even if you don't understand everything, just to get a basic idea of where everything is and how it works. Then, you can search on this forum and online to find out more details. Often, this will turn up problem areas that the books gloss over, either through overlooking something or by assuming that the reader is an experienced mechanic with a full set of tools.

          After that, the first thing I would be concerned with is safety, mainly tires and brakes. If you have a state safety inspection in your state, just passing inspection would take care of most of that. For your own safety, make sure that you never get under the car until it is on secure jackstands, with the tires blocked.

          The most likely thing in my experience to leave you stranded is corroded battery terminals. They may look ok, but still not be making good contact and it will seem like a dead battery. Get a cheap tool for cleaning the post and terminal and then put silicone dielectric right on the post. If you twist it around and tighten the bolt, it will still conduct fine. Check to make sure it starts and then put some more on the outside of the post and connector.

          One thing that will leave you dead in the water is a broken timing belt. Most people recommend replacing them somewhere between 60,000 miles and 100,000 miles. If you don't know when yours has been done, I would have that done fairly soon. If you have a fairly good set of tools and a place to work, it is not too hard to do.

          I have lost a couple of critical bolts that could have left me stranded if I had been farther from home. I lost a bolt from my alternator bracket and barely made it home at night on the battery. I also lost a bolt from my A/C compressor but there was enough support from the other bolts that it didn't cause an immediate problem. When I replaced them, I cleaned the threads with brake cleaner and used blue locktite. You can do something similar with existing bolts without removing them by putting a blob of Goop on the head of the bolt and whatever it goes into.

          Most other things will give you some warning, if you are observant. I have been caught, however, with a dead battery due to a faulty alternator; the voltage indication doesn't give much advance warning. I carry a set of jumper cables with me and have been both the helper and the beneficiary of having them (been on both ends) .

          They may have been replaced now, but the early cars had an igniter that would cut out when it got hot but recover when it cooled off, so you could still get home when it first started happening. Mine was ok as long as I was doing steady driving, but when I got into stop and go traffic, it would conk out. My ignitor was in the distributor, but the GT's had theirs external (I don't know if they had the same problem).

          If you have someone else to do your work, you can go through $1000 pretty quickly. I would try to keep some cash in reserve for emergency breakdowns.

          If you use search diligently first, the people on this forum are very helpful (Boosted Man )

          Good luck,
          Brady
          Last edited by Brady; October 1, 2010, 02:40 PM.
          '89 Ford Probe LX, 2.2 nonturbo, 5 speed
          No wonder my car broke down; the mechanic put BREAK FLUID in it!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by jhume20 View Post
            it's a 91 lx.

            i think the exaust is fine....i was just meaning like what should i get done to it as a basic tune up of sorts...i dont have any mechanical experience. this car needs to last me awhile...500 dollars i payed for it but it's going to be my daily driver....i did look into the exaust just because i wanted to beef up the sound a little bit
            I meant to pass emissions. If your 20 year old OEM exhaust leaks where I live they make you replace it before your vehicle can be tagged.
            1990 Ford Probe LX 3.0L V6

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by anomaly View Post
              You don't have any mechanical experience?
              In that case, I have two options to start:

              First, the cheaper of the two: Buy a Haynes repair manual and go through Chapter 1.
              I agree 100%

              I'd also add in, you mentioned before you don't have many tools, right? Get a medium priced ($60-$80, should have 50-100 pieces in it) lifetime-warranty "mechanics" socket from Sears/Craftsman. The mechanics sets have a spark plug socket and usually come in black carry cases, you don't want their (blue) Home sets (unless you're putting furniture together or hanging pictures). Make sure the set contains both 3/8 metric 6-point sockets AND 3/8 SAE 6-point. (My set is about the same as the 94 piece set they're selling on sale now for $60).

              Then buy one of their metric wrench sets for $30. Sometimes the smaller sets skip sizes (like going from 10mm to 13mm, and leave out 11 and 12), so make sure the set has numbers "at least" from 9mm to 15mm... and of course 6-point is your best bet for not ruining a nut/bolt.

              Finally get a toolbox for $20, a 3/8th "accessory" (swivels, extensions) set for $15, and a set of screwdrivers for $10 and you'll be all set to tackle chapter one of the Haynes. Like I said before avoid the cheaply-made no-name socket sets because they'll do more harm than good.

              [edit] Brady has a good list too. For the timing belt, its more advanced then chapter 1 of the Haynes, so you may want a mechanic to do it, but it's actually not "hard", just many small steps to do. You'll need a 3/8th torque wrench ($80 from Sears), and should change the idler/tensioner pulleys too. You may also want to change the water pump because it's "right there". If that belt snaps, the engine's a goner. The timing belt & pulleys were one of the first things I changed when I bought my $500 Probe off the side of the road.
              Last edited by HotRodTom; September 29, 2010, 07:33 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jhume20 View Post
                So i've been thinking about what im going to do with my tax return when the time comes around...
                I was just wondering if you guys would give me a list of things that should probably be replaced in a probe bought off the side of the road.
                spark plugs, ect...

                order from most important to least.
                Budget: about $1000 return
                1. get some run-right, or something like that (basically and engine cleaner through the fuel system) will remove all gunk stuck anywhere the fuel goes, like injectors, pistons, ext.
                Benefits- better fuel flow for less strain on the fuel pump, injectors open and close smoother leading to better MPG, injectors spray better leading to more HP, no gunk stuck to pistons witch will reduce friction witch means more MPG, HP, acceleration, & less strain on the engine leading to longer life of parts.
                Cost- (good stuff) even though its hard to find and costs a little more than your average stuff it is well worth the money. $30-$60.
                - (average) much easier to find, cheeper but not as good. $10-$30
                2. if you can, order accel wires, and NGK iridium plugs.
                yes there for performance but they help with the gas milage and how smoothly your engine will run.
                Benefits- (wires) less resistance of electrical flow to the plugs for increased sparking power and a better spark, better engine timing (running smoother), and they will last longer cause of the thickness of metal and surrounding materials
                - (plugs) better spark witch means less fuel left unburnt when flooring it, lasts longer.
                Cost- (wires) $50-$120 not too hard to find usually at you local car store, the cheeper ones are close to Bosch or champion in price but blow them away in performance, the more expensive ones have amazing performance and are used in the NHRA, and NASCAR, not worth the money unless your looking to race and have heavy mods.
                3. PCV valve- never quite understood why the hell it there but i know it has to be replaced not too often, so when you go for an oil change ask them to check it.
                Benefits- no clue
                cost- $5-$15
                4. K&N air filter, yes its a bit costly for a filter but you never have to change it and instead of getting a new filter every 5,000-10,000 you (should) only have to clean it every 100,000 KM give or take depending on conditions.
                Benefits- less strain on the engine when sucking in air, more airflow and more HP, better MPG, and better acceleration.
                cost- $40-$70 not cheep for a filter but it is worth the money cause you almost never have to clean it and cleaning it is slightly cheeper than replacing it, cleaning is super easy, well worth the money for the gains.
                5. Engine flush- cleans out all the stuck oil in the pan and systems.
                Benefits- less gunk in engine, smoother operating, less strain on engine.
                cost- $8-$16 + oil($15-$30) if done at oil shop ($50-$110 depending on oil quality and place getting it done)
                6. Transmission flush/change- replaces old fluid with new stuff, make shure whatever they do they change the trans filter as well.
                Benefits- less strain on tranny, smoother shifting, better MPG (not by a lot but enough to make a difference over a long time) less wear on the gears, prolongs trans life.
                cost-$50-$150 do it yourself is the $50, get it done is the $150 give or take.
                P.S. dont do it yourself if you don't know what your doing, i can give step by step on this one cause i work at a oil shop.
                7. Clean your exhaust, people recommend changing it but thats a lot of money considering how much you have to work with, basically if you can take it off and get one of those cleaning attachments that you put on a drill and has a long stem for the actual spinning brush part so you can get the whole piping system, this will remove most to all build up of crap that your engine expels from the usage and the run-right stuff.
                Benefits- less back pressure so more HP, and more MPG's.
                cost- $20-$300, huge price range depending on tools at hand the 300 is if you have nothing at all (no drill, screwdrivers, cleaners, brush) and the 20 is just for a brush if you already have tools and cleaners. but well worth the money if you already have the tools, if not just get a new exhaust about $350-$500 depending on were you go and what you looking for.

                i know this isnt in oder of most important to least but its a step process, don't do 1,2,4,&7 out of order, cause it kinda defeats the purpose things. (exhaust before the run-right, crap in exhaust from engine, ext.)
                any questions about how to do anything PM me.
                Last edited by Helikaon; September 29, 2010, 11:29 AM. Reason: messed up wording
                91 PLX- "my baby" light weight flywheel, cross drilled rotors, new clutch, K&N filter. (sadly its gone now.... )

                94 PSE- my absolute piece of shit, no mods, no exhaust from the downpipe back.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I am just now working on my timing belt and water pump, so I had these already printed out:
                  Edit: Had the wrong URL for one.

                  http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...erpump+gaskets

                  Here is one for a Mazda MX6, which is mechanically about the same as a Probe:
                  http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-eng...n-updated.html

                  I also have one by HotRodTom entitled:
                  "1989 LX 2.2, timing belt- what about cover gaskets? Any tips?"
                  started on Sept. 13th, 2005, 02:12 PM, but for some reason I can't find it in the forum history.

                  HTH, Brady
                  Last edited by Brady; September 29, 2010, 10:58 AM.
                  '89 Ford Probe LX, 2.2 nonturbo, 5 speed
                  No wonder my car broke down; the mechanic put BREAK FLUID in it!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    All of the above, saves typing.

                    Lots of great advice.
                    Need a chip or parts for your 1st gen GT go here----->Fordprobeparts.com

                    Floridafordprobeowners.club

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I do have a socket set with the spark plug sockets. Just that's it...I have my drive-way to work in. No Garage.

                      As for a manual, I have the one that came in the glove box of the car.
                      "Probe
                      Owner Guide
                      1991
                      Servicing
                      Maintenance
                      Record Log
                      Index"
                      That one...

                      I would like to do all the said work myself...we all have to start learning some how...I've allrdy replaced the Drivers side fender, the headlight motor for the passenger side and the radiator thanks to everyones help, so im still learning...but atleast i can say i did the work.

                      Any more advice?
                      Thanks
                      There are 2 types of pedestrians, the quick and the dead.

                      “A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.”

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ok now I recommend buying a Haynes or Chilton work manual for the 89-92 Ford Probes, prices range from $12-$15-Haynes, $20-$29-Chilton. Examples here
                        Need a chip or parts for your 1st gen GT go here----->Fordprobeparts.com

                        Floridafordprobeowners.club

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BoostedMan View Post
                          Ok now I recommend buying a Haynes or Chilton work manual for the 89-92 Ford Probes, prices range from $12-$15-Haynes, $20-$29-Chilton. Examples here
                          go with Haynes, i have both, and the chilton one i don't like, just doesn't help at all, Haynes is easier.
                          91 PLX- "my baby" light weight flywheel, cross drilled rotors, new clutch, K&N filter. (sadly its gone now.... )

                          94 PSE- my absolute piece of shit, no mods, no exhaust from the downpipe back.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Tom mentioned getting a torque wrench. That is one of the things that Harbor Freight has a good reputation on (at least with DIYer's). I have three and they all check pretty closely with my beam type and are much easier to use in tight places than the beam type. Just remember to set them to a low value before storing them, to prevent weakening of the spring and the resultant degradation in accuracy.
                            2nd Edit: Just happened to think of this when I saw an ad: When using the torque wrench (or estimating how hard to tighten by feel) make sure that you don't get mixed up between inch-lbs and ft-lbs. After you have worked for a while on your car, you should get a feel for about how hard to tighten something by the size, but some people have made that mistake and broken bolts or stripped out threads.

                            Another thing to watch about torque wrenches: Most of them also have a scale for N-M (Newton-Meters). It is easy to get mixed up between the two scales; the titles are hard to read. I'm going to cover up mine with tape.

                            Edit: I just thought of something else. I wish that I had done what someone else said in another post. Get the engine, etc. clean before starting to work; it is much nicer to work on a clean engine. There are several posts on how to clean the engine without getting water or cleaner where it might do some damage. Don't just use the sprayer at the car wash to do it.
                            Last edited by Brady; October 1, 2010, 10:48 AM.
                            '89 Ford Probe LX, 2.2 nonturbo, 5 speed
                            No wonder my car broke down; the mechanic put BREAK FLUID in it!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              dont use a sprayer or hose period. lol. there's no real reason to. its just what lazy people like doing.
                              PaTricK
                              ~ 92 PGT, 97 KL MTX 626, 05 Mazda6, 13 Mazda CX9, 09 Kia Sportage 4x4 v6 ~

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