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Old September 6th, 2014, 10:06 PM   #51
polarexpress17
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i don't think your logic is correct there, the injectors will still need the same amount of fuel as smaller ones in this aspect. the pump is the injector's supply and you will still be using the same amount of fuel

it will just be done more efficiently and safer with the big injectors vs smaller ones.

at least that is how i understand it
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Old September 6th, 2014, 10:32 PM   #52
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I figured I would need a new pump anyway. It was just thought I had while I posting.

I just assumed that there would be less pressure (pumps flow more at lower pressure, right?) and the lower duty cycle of the bigger injectors would deliver the needed fuel in shorter/more volume squirts. So running at 33psi instead of 43 psi might let the pump flow more. But, with the AFPR and boost it would be back up near the stock 43psi.
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Old September 7th, 2014, 08:54 AM   #53
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basically either way you will be using more fuel under boost, more fuel is what the stock pump usually can't do, plus you can find a walbro 255 regularly for under $80-$90 so its almost a no brainer tbh

---------- Post added at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:53 AM ----------

as a matter of fact i'd sell you my 255 for 55 shipped. going back to stock so i wn't need it
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Old September 16th, 2014, 04:16 AM   #54
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Did some basic calculations: (using my engines hp output, boost required, B.S.F.C. of .6, also included a 5 psi pumping loss between pump and rails for extra safety.)

Don't know the stock pump's flow specs
A 190ltr/hr pump will be about maxed out around 360 Crank HP
A 255ltr/hr pump will be about maxed out around 500 Crank HP
Both pumps will supply more fuel for a little more HP if you have a constant 13.5 volts.

The required fuel flow will be different for everyone, depending the the amount of HP, base fuel pressure, B.S.F.C. and boost you'll be running(increased fuel pressure 1:1 per boost).
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Old June 14th, 2016, 03:02 AM   #55
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WOW, almost 2 YEARS!

Starting to work on the car again, except it's gonna be 120 degrees this weekend!

Doing a few other side projects in the mean time...


Stripping some tar with the oscillating multi-tool. I think I'm going to try the dry ice on the next part?




Cleaning up the ZE manifold.




Also, noticed when I removed the fuel rails, 2 of the hold down bolts weren't even tightened down!

In the Probe owner's "make it yourself" world... I made some wooden V-blocks for my camshafts.



They are for holding the cams while I mic them out. I can use it to check if there is any bow to the cams, runout and lobe lift. When I measured this cam(the one that was in my car) everything mic'ed out dead nominal.

Cleaning up the cam caps too... I lightly used some wet 2000 grit and polished them, but may need a little more sanding?



I wonder how many people just throw in their new cams and go, without checking them. I want to make sure the regrinds are straight and and the journals are in spec. If I have to modify the cam caps too much for the regrinds, then I won't be able to reinstall the stock cams later if I want to.

Also, bought a EGR block off plate. Plan to remove all the EGR junk, vacuum solenoids, and clean up some wiring.
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Old June 14th, 2016, 08:08 AM   #56
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Glad to see you're still working on the car! Progress looks good.
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Old June 14th, 2016, 09:14 AM   #57
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Quote:
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I wonder how many people just throw in their new cams and go, without checking them. I want to make sure the regrinds are straight and and the journals are in spec. If I have to modify the cam caps too much for the regrinds, then I won't be able to reinstall the stock cams later if I want to.

Also, bought a EGR block off plate. Plan to remove all the EGR junk, vacuum solenoids, and clean up some wiring.
I never just throw in cams any more -ever since I discovered how much slop there was in the clearances. To me it is better to match the heads to some custom grind cams -because for me it is easier (and cheaper) to get another set of heads than custom cams. Heads can come from lots of the newer Mazdas and so they are still fairly plentiful around (at least for the moment)

I stocked up on my sets of heads years ago and so I have at least 10 sets of heads and 8 blocks to build from.
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Old June 14th, 2016, 10:31 AM   #58
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I tried dry ice for the tar removal and it didnt do much. I don't think there's really an easy way to remove it other than hard work.
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Old June 18th, 2016, 10:39 PM   #59
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Well it is 103* out at 10:15PM, but it was only 95* in the garage with a portable swamp cooler and a 20" fan.

Spent about 45 min. on the intake. I did some smoothing and leveling of the front runners and top plenum. Hand sander and some 60 grit.






Time to go back inside to the A/C...
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Old June 23rd, 2016, 09:27 AM   #60
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I spilled a quart of unused motor oil in my spare tire area and let it soak for a while (unintentionally) and then the sound deadening just fell off the metal on it's own in big pieces.

not sure how useful this information is.
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Old March 12th, 2017, 12:34 AM   #61
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Spending a lot of time at work and school. Haven't worked on the car much. Been spending money on other hobbies lately...

PS4

Guitar 1
Guitar 2
Guitar 3


I wanted to use silicone plug/caps to block of the heater hose fittings. I could only find the cheap rubber or the knock-off cheap silicone plugs. So I bought some new hose and plugs at Home Depot.

Shark Bite 3/4 Plugs

But the next day at work I found some extra aluminum stock and made my own plugs.



Cleaning up the engine bay a little bit...



Removed the heater hose loop, EGR, EGR hoses, VRIS and other solenoids, and taped electrical connectors to wire harness.
Parts and stuff

I plan to start on the new fuel lines next, and I still have the cam regrinds to install.



Maybe I'll do more soon?
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Old March 12th, 2017, 10:35 AM   #62
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Very cool, I was planning on looping my heater hoses together, but perhaps this block-off idea will be easier! Keep it up!
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Old March 12th, 2017, 02:09 PM   #63
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Very cool, I was planning on looping my heater hoses together, but perhaps this block-off idea will be easier! Keep it up!
Definitely not easier. A little bit more space, I don't really like the look of all the clamps. If I had an extra thermostat housing(or what ever that is with all the water ports on it) I would just modify/remove them. Cleaner and more space.
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Old March 13th, 2017, 02:01 AM   #64
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I personally run a 180 degree hose right there, the top port goes all the way over to the pass side of engine and is separated from the lower port, I didn't like the idea of just blocking off that ports flow from other side of the engine
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Old March 13th, 2017, 09:11 AM   #65
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I have a cobbled together 180* hose there, but its just messy. It would require a 180 with a very tight radius to clean it up, which I dont know how much I care to try to source something like that. I would definitely prefer to cut up and weld the thermostat housing, but assuming it's aluminum, I dont have a way to weld it.
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Old March 13th, 2017, 11:18 PM   #66
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I'm running a 180 myself from some cars prebent heater hose
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Old March 14th, 2017, 12:22 AM   #67
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Removed parts

You can see the big ugly hose loop in the photo above under the EGR.

I wanted to use one of these with one clamp. But I could only find links to UK sellers. Or cheap ebay knock offs that would probably melt or burst.
Samco Sport blanking plug

~ $12 ea. Plus International shipping

My mod only cost ~ $5. After I return the store bought plugs.
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Old July 15th, 2017, 01:35 AM   #68
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Screw Photobucket!

I just spent a few hours transferring my photo's to my Google Photo's account and updating all the links in this thread.

Still haven't done much since the last update. Cleaned up some wiring and removed more brackets and other stuff.

Here is a IAC delete plate I made on the mill at work.





You can see the EGR Delete block off plate installed and all the extra room from bundling the wiring harness. Moved the two relays next to the fuse box and plan to remove the Fuel Vapor Canister too.



Testing out where the dual feed fuel setup is going to go. Just temporary old fuel hose, I have some nice Earls Pro-Lite 350 braided hose for the final install.




Hopefully I will finally get the turbo cam regrinds in and dyno tested, then I can install the turbo and MS... in another year...
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Old July 15th, 2017, 02:49 AM   #69
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I give up!

Now some pics work and others don't?
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Old July 15th, 2017, 07:39 PM   #70
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How do you find the idle and cold starts with no iac?
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Old July 15th, 2017, 09:22 PM   #71
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How do you find the idle and cold starts with no iac?
AZ = No cold starts.

The IAC wiring connector hasn't been hooked up for years, and no coolant lines to it either. It has always just started right up. I have had a reving up and down idle every so often, but that has been after driving for a while. I think that was a vacuum leak?

Most of the time it idles between 600-700 rpm and occasionally idles around 1000-1200 rpm after a hard drive? Haven't driven it in over a year or with the IAC delete.
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Old July 15th, 2017, 10:06 PM   #72
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Seeing if the IC is going to fit where I want it.



Might need to switch to 45 elbow instead of the 90? I hope I don't have to switch to a different intake manifold. I would think it would be made to fit, it's been done before... KL with W/A IC (Different IM and I believe a smaller IC?)
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Old July 16th, 2017, 09:37 AM   #73
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I suggest you delete the burp box, install a Moroso 1.5" inline hose burp/filler on the passenger side, and use 90* pipe couplers with straight pipe cuts instead of that giant U-bend. It might enable you to use the IC just the way you wanted. It would be something like - 90*-IC-90*-straight BOV pipe-90*-turbo.

And maybe add a PTP turbo blanket in there or you WILL get nasty heat soak. My car suffers really bad from heat. Drive her for ten minutes and you cant lay a hand on any piece under the hood for the next hour.

Props for thinking of using reflect-a-gold. That will do well wrapped around the IC. Starter motors benefit a lot from it too. I'll be incorporating a self-adhesive silver aluminized fiberglass wrap (steel lock ties at the ends of course) for my cold pipes soon cuz the gold stuff was too expensive for me.

* oh yeah... You'll probably have to move that msd coil pretty far from where it currently is. I could see it getting roasted.
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Old July 16th, 2017, 11:45 AM   #74
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I had planned to cut that "U" bend down. Still don't think that would be short enough. Thought about have a 2" to 3" pie cut bend welded up. Another idea was to make a mold and make a carbon fiber bend...



I have to wait until I get the hot pipes and turbo in there to see what I have to work with. I've been making all my guesses from photos of other peoples turbo setups. Like a previous post, I wanted to try this setup--> W/A IC KL setup But, I'm not sure about the hood clearance?

I planned on a turbo blanket and have some other heat reducing/blocking ideas that I'm working on. Same idea about the coolant lines, also. Or, maybe use the '98 - '02 626 coolant setup? The coil is just resting there out of the way as I work on other stuff in that area.
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Old July 22nd, 2017, 05:01 PM   #75
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OMG you just mentioned the 626 coolant neck... and all this time I've had one in my stash for like 5 years... IT IS SOOO GOING ON THE NEW ENGINE!

If you had not mentioned that, I would have completely forgot about it and missed that step during the build.. so THANK YOU!
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