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How do I stop my car from rattling?

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  • #16
    You guys should do what im doing. Pick up a phone book, and look for "sound proofing" in the yellow pages. I found a place who usually do sound proofing for houses, but who are familiar with dynomat and who say that they'll sound proof my trunk from most vibrations for about 150$ CDN (or about 95$ US).
    Last edited by SkyCatcher; February 27, 2002, 10:17 AM.

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    • #17
      My Subaru rattled like mad. I gutted the interior and filled the spaces in the body with expanding foam that comes in the black can at Lowes, then instead of Dynamat I went to www.mcmaster.com and got thier stuff, it is the exact same stuff. Use the visceoelastic for the more curvy areas and thier hi-temp mastic (which is identical to dynamat extreme) for the flatter areas. I did the entire car for less than $100.

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      • #18
        I have the ultimate way to stop trunk ralltle due to bass!!!

        go to your local harware store and ask for spray insulation filler it runs like 2.99 a can it s a spray foam that fills and expands into the tight spots in you taillights. just remove the black screw cover ontop of the taillights and fill untill your heart is content. I have 4 12' subs and and over 4,000 watts and the only thing that rattles on my car is the ford emblem, my las spl contest was 156 db. I used three cans, to silence my car.

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        • #19
          Foam Liner Stuff

          For the brake light at the top of the hatch, you may want to consider using some foam liner stuff. Dont know the exact name, but you can find it in places like lowes or builders square....

          Take a lil bit of that stuff, or the material of your choice and put it between the brake light fixture and the hatch window. Put it in a couple locations and up the volume to see how it reduces the knock. Keep adjusting/adding until you a.) get rid of the knock. or b.) are satisfied w/ the reduced noise.

          Hope this helps.
          Stock 96 PGT
          Pioneer, Polk Audio, Rockford, Eclipse

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          • #20
            Ok, this is what ive done for all my rattels in the rear of the car. I pulled my rear bumperskin off and used polyurathane constuction adheasive (use nothing else but this) and glued that da*n styrafoam to the car. Then i got foam weather stripping 1/2 inch thick I think and lined the styrafoam with it. As you slide the skin back on ensure that the skin will fit tight to the bumper, "how", it will be bitch to slide it on all the way. Then I pulled the panels out from my trunk and their i found about a billion or so plastic clips that hold wires, ect. Make sure that its cleaned and maybe scuff the paint slightly with fine sandpaper and urathane all these problem areas. Also any screws you find unscrew them and urthane those to and screw them back in. All the panels with any contact point you may have use 1/4 inch foam weather stripping and then reinstall you panels but before you do that take out your rear windshield washer resivoir on the left side and weatherstrip that good. as for the hatch the same as the panels. One thing I want to mention your freash air vent under your bumper skin you may want to seal that up some how because after I fixed the vibrations I now here thet stupid piece of rubber flappin. Thats your call though. Took me about 10 hours by myself but huge difference and under normal driving its also a little quiter.

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