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1st Gen (89-92) All Discussion of Maint Issues for 1st Gen (all models)

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Old December 18th, 2007, 03:29 AM   #1
britishbich05
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Thermostat

hey i am doin the thermostat tomorrow on my 91 lx v6, i havent done one before, so it should be interesting, i was wondering if anyone had any tips, maybe even a step by step of everything, i got the haynes manual, but yea, wondering if i had to drain the coolant or just leave it and see what leakes out, let me know plz, any info greatly appreciated.
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Old December 18th, 2007, 09:36 AM   #2
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Draining some first is a good idea....otherwise you'll have it all over. You don't need to drain the whole thing but I drained about a gallon and that was fine. Of course I just did it to the 2.2 in my 89 MX6...not the Vulcan so Im not positive on specifics.

One other tip, if you got your t-stat from NAPA, Autozone, etc...just take it back and get one from Ford. I got a brand new one from NAPA last year and the thing was JUNK! I woud let my car heat up for 15 minutes so it would blow somewhat warm air and then head to work but as soon as I started driving, the air would just get colder.
A couple weeks ago I got a regular Motorcraft T-stat from Ford and put that in and WOW what a difference. The thing heats up quick and the heat blows nice and toasty. It was 18 bucks from Ford vs the 7 bucks from NAPA..but WELL WORTH EVERY PENNY!
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Old December 18th, 2007, 02:15 PM   #3
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I just changed mine on my 91 GT two days ago. It's a four banger though, so it's slightly different than your v6. I drained my coolant (just from the rad, about 7litres of fluid came out), because I wanted to flush my cooling system anyways. So I went ahead and flushed it with some coolant flush I bought from Canadian tire, this step is very easy to do. Anyways, once I had all the cleaner drained and had ran through water, I had it all drained again (from the radiator). So from here, the step by step in the Haynes manual for thermostat replacement held true. I took off my spark plug wires to get them out of the way, unplugged the temp sensor from the housing, and undid the 2 other electrical connectors (marking them with some tape and markers to ensure the proper ones matched up when I plugged them back in). I have a turbo, so I took the bracket near the thermostat housing off, and was ready to rock.

The two bolts from the thermostat housing came out very easy (well the top one was a nut, and the bottom the whole bolt came out. I don't know if the nut was seized on it or if the bolt was supposed to come out, but it came out cleanly anwyays). Always a good idea to spray some lubricant in the threads in case the nuts are rusty. I did not undo the radiator hose from the thermostat housing because it was being stubborn. Eitherway, the thermostat came right out, and I scraped the old gasket material off and cleaned the area with thinner. I put the new thermostat in and used some 'gasket maker' in between the new gasket and the housing. Put everything back together, and followed to run the car with the rad cap off (after filling with 50/50 coolant), turned it off, burped the upper hose, filled it back up, and I was done (this is following the flushing procedure in chapter 1 of the Haynes manual). I know very little about cars, and this was quite an easy job. For the first time in a long time, my temp gauge finally got within the normal range, and my car actually blows hot air (I live in Saskatchewan and we get some cold winters). My old thermostat had a cracked little seal on the backside which was allowing coolant to flow to the radiator from the block long before it got hot enough. I got the new thermostat from Canadian Tire for $9, and so far so good. Best of luck.

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Old December 18th, 2007, 11:02 PM   #4
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wear a blindfold, zip tie your left index finger to your right ring finger, eat lunch, then do it. that should make it intersting, but to get it done, its on the top side so you really shouldnt worry about too much draing out unless im thinkin wrong.. i mean yea some but like a glass maybe..oh, dont silicone the new one shut,dont get it wedged open, dont do it while its hot...its like a 5 min job.. pretty easy
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Old December 18th, 2007, 11:27 PM   #5
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what brand of t-stat did u get from napa?
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Old December 19th, 2007, 05:22 AM   #6
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factory cooling set up's on the 2.2's are a dual stage cooling set up, and every aftermarket one (parts stores) is a generic single stage. so they will work, just not properly. so you have to get your t-stat at a mazda/ford dealer.
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Old December 19th, 2007, 07:30 AM   #7
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Thanks for the info Pat!
I was wondering why the Motorcraft T-stat I got was a dual stage. It is definitely a thousand times better then the crap aftermarket one. Another difference is that it actually has a rubber seal where the aftermarket one did not, it was a metal to metal seal. Like I said, the Motorcraft was worth every penny of the 18 bucks I spent! Finally I got some good heat blowing.

britishbich05- I honestly have no idea what brand it was that I got from NAPA...it might have actually been NAPA brand I don't know. All I know is that it was 9 bucks I might as well have thrown in the garbage.
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Old December 20th, 2007, 05:16 AM   #8
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wtf!

i just bought two of them from mazda, and niether of them had any rubber seal. i hadnt even thought about that till you said. bastards!
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Old December 20th, 2007, 06:31 AM   #9
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I got a Motorcraft one from Ford. I have an MX6 but my dad can get somewhat of a discount at this place that sells factory parts and they can get Ford parts but not Mazda. Wierd I know. So he just told him it was for a Probe instead and thats what I got. 18 bucks and worth ever last cent.
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Old December 20th, 2007, 02:08 PM   #10
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yup, mine was 18 and sum change too. OEM ford, and OEM mazda should be the exact same part though. wonder if it was old stock or something cause i have bought them in the past and got the rubber seals.

plus the ones ive got in the past were packaged differently, these came in little white box's with a blue MAZDA on them.
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Old December 20th, 2007, 02:14 PM   #11
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I was thinking the same thing that they should be the same part. I don't know why yours wouldn't have the rubber seal.
The one I got came in a regular Motorcraft box with the Part# on it. Don't remember what the number was though and I threw the box out.

As long as it works...what the heck!
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Old December 20th, 2007, 05:30 PM   #12
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mine didnt fix my issue. car still wont warm up at all. i even fully blocked off the radiator so its seeing NO air, yet even on my 30+ min drive to work, it wont ever get above the very bottom of the M on NORM for the temp.

it sux... i dunno what to try next
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Old December 20th, 2007, 05:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxmonoxidechil
mine didnt fix my issue. car still wont warm up at all. i even fully blocked off the radiator so its seeing NO air, yet even on my 30+ min drive to work, it wont ever get above the very bottom of the M on NORM for the temp.

it sux... i dunno what to try next
sux? no this is what sucks, my car wont heat up. the temp gauge move up to the bottom of the line after warming the car up for about 20 min, then whan i start driving the car, the temp gauge read below normal and no heat again,rpm and iac causing the car to rev at 1500pm due to the coolant being too cold.the car had been park since monday. i will get it fix on weekend.
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Old December 20th, 2007, 09:12 PM   #14
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Mine gets just to the very bottom of M when it's chilly outside and runs great. Gas mileage is awesome and it runs smooth. I have a transmission cooler on it and a Napa t-stat and I'm not sweating it at all. My heater works great! It's blowing warm air in less than ten minutes. Water pump and t-stat are about 8,000 miles old, and the radiator has less than 2,000 miles on it. Temp gauge drops just a *bit* when I feel the t-stat open up by squeezing the upper hose. Just my 1 1/2 cents.

Ademan, are you sure your heater core isn't blocked?
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Old December 21st, 2007, 05:24 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ademan
sux? no this is what sucks, my car wont heat up. the temp gauge move up to the bottom of the line after warming the car up for about 20 min, then whan i start driving the car, the temp gauge read below normal and no heat again,rpm and iac causing the car to rev at 1500pm due to the coolant being too cold.the car had been park since monday. i will get it fix on weekend.
thats EXACTLY what mine is doing. if you block off the front of the radiatorm you it wont get colder, but sit right at the bottom of the M, pretty much at the line your talking about. its right about 130 degree's.

dood, if you fix it, hit me up and tell me what to do.

ive flushed the system, new radiator, new hoses, new mazda OEM thermostate, new mazda oem radiator cap, and new water pump. i dunno what else to change.........
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Old December 21st, 2007, 05:50 AM   #16
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Try changing the mixture of anti-freeze and water, needs to be exactly 50/50 or getting to the ideal temp could be hard.
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Old December 21st, 2007, 06:26 AM   #17
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Pat thats EXACTLY what mine was doing too before I got the Motorcraft T-stat. I had the radiator completely blocked off and it would barely get warm and stay there. As soon as I put the T-stat in, temp went up into normal and it blows nice toasty air. I still have cardboard over the radiator but now its has about a 8-10in hole cut in the middle of it, just for good measure!

Maybe the Mazda T-stat you got wasn't any good... Its happened to me before Other then that, i don't know what else it would be.
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Old December 21st, 2007, 01:40 PM   #18
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no heat is usually caused by a stuck open thermostat ..it wont let the coolant get up to operating temp of 200F..possibly the door isnt opening all the way the one over the heater core ..thats easy enough to check that the door is fully open just put the temp. lever on the hottest setting ..the door should be open..otherwise the heater core might be plugged up if you havent changed coolant in a long while and happened to use plain water mixed with antifreeze instead of distilled water..what happens is the hard chemicals in the water boil out and plug the heater core passages or rust from the engine block plugs the core..run the engine for a half hour with the heat on full high then feel the two inline heater hoses going to the heater core..i bet they are barely warm.. they should be hot. if the heater core is plugged i think you have to remove the whole dash..its inside the ac evaporator case...about $60 for a new one
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Old December 21st, 2007, 01:55 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by rallye26

Maybe the Mazda T-stat you got wasn't any good... Its happened to me before.
went through two brand new auto part store ones, then just installed the OEM mazda one two nights ago.

the chances of all three failing right out of the box are way to rare. theres something else im missing and just havent figured it out yet. ill be removing the hoses off the heater core this weekend and checking/flushing that. cause thats the only other part of the heating/cooling system i havent touched yet.
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Old December 21st, 2007, 06:52 PM   #20
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My GT just barely reaches operating temperate and sits right below the "M" in the gauge. However, I do have heat, even while driving. The other day it was 39 F (in Florida of all places) and the heater worked fine, despite the operating temperature. The car takes about 8-10 minutes to warm up if I let it sit and idle, but I don't have time for that.
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Old December 21st, 2007, 06:56 PM   #21
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weve been seeing 0-15 degree's alot lately with windchill below zero in the morning. so heat is really needed.....

but the past few days have been warmer so it hasnt been as bad.
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