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2nd Gen (93-97) V6 2.5L Discussion of Maint Issues for V6

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Old October 12th, 2010, 06:54 PM   #1
Starfire
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Replacing the alternator

Okay, I'm trying to replace the alternator in my '94 GT...

Got the Haynes manual and it says back off the tensioner bolt - released and the belt falls off. Yay.

Then, undo the two bolts holding the AC compressor in place to drop it out of the way. Done, and the compressor doesn't budge (found another bolt that looked like a mounting bolt but when it got loosened there was a hiss... oops!!!! retightened quickly.)

Top mounting bolt for the alternator is out and now the alternator sits as solidly mounted to the engine as ever.

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Old October 12th, 2010, 07:14 PM   #2
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what about the trough bolt ( what the alt. swivels on) on the bottom?
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Old October 12th, 2010, 07:17 PM   #3
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Can't get at the bloody thing with the AC compressor still firmly attached and I can't see what else is holding the compressor in place.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 07:23 PM   #4
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Then take the radiator out. It is my preferred method for removing the alternator, although there are plenty of people that do not like that method.

Keep trying to get at the lower bolt on the alternator. There is not much you will be able to remove to aid you in getting to said bolt. You'll get it eventually
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Old October 12th, 2010, 07:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by bladirka View Post
Then take the radiator out. It is my preferred method for removing the alternator, although there are plenty of people that do not like that method.

Keep trying to get at the lower bolt on the alternator. There is not much you will be able to remove to aid you in getting to said bolt. You'll get it eventually
Jeezuz!!! Somebody recently said to me, "Ah yes, the Ford Probe. An excellent example of building a car around an engine."

I'm believing that more and more that I work on this thing.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 08:12 PM   #6
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you dont HAVE to take the radiator out...there are actually three bolts on the ac compressor im pretty sure(not positive)....two on the bottom and one on the top left (passenger side) of the car, it's a pain in the ass to get to... I just changed mine out about three weeks ago without taking the radiator out. it's makes it a tad more difficult but it can be done.

once the compressor is "movable" move it towards the driver side of the motor as far as you can....then take out the top bolts out of the alternator...then all you gotta do is loosen the bottom one....cause it wont come out until you get it free from the bracket. then it's just maneuvering it around to get it out. GL!

And BTW...you'll also realize that the haynes manual most of the time only good for torque specs and tightening sequence....It leaves out so much info...making you frustrated when it doesnt happen like they "say" it should. haha Once you've done something on the probe...it's way easier the second time around.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 08:20 PM   #7
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I just did the alternator on our 93 PGT and there are 4 mounting bolts in a
rectangular pattern for the compressor. You might not see the top ones, but
put your wrench up there and it is there.
You do not have to disconnect the hoses, but you have probably lost some
charge if you heard a hiss.
Disconnect the battery ground if you have not already.
Disconnect the wires to the alternator.
Remove the top bolt, then loosen the bottom bolt, if you try to remove
it you'll see that it seems as if it is impossible to get out.
The trick is to rotate the alternator down and there is a slot in the frame
that allows it to slide forward off the bolt and out.

Last edited by Pete93ProbeGT; October 12th, 2010 at 08:21 PM.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 08:27 PM   #8
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^^^ all the above info is wrong and dangerous. You run the risk of cracking a very old a/c line by bending it out of shape. Am I the only one that has learned removing the radiator fans is way easier. As long as we are talking Probe and not Mx6.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 08:44 PM   #9
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^^^ all the above info is wrong and dangerous. You run the risk of cracking a very old a/c line by bending it out of shape. Am I the only one that has learned removing the radiator fans is way easier. As long as we are talking Probe and not Mx6.
Okay, so what's involved in removing the fans?

*lol* and please take note of what it says under 'Starfire' on the left.
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Last edited by Starfire; October 12th, 2010 at 08:45 PM.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 08:59 PM   #10
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Search for "TravisWilliamGT" replacing the alternator methods....I have never used his method, but something similar, I took off the radiator, which in his method he says to just lift up the radiator with all the coolant hoses still attached to it and just kind of sit it on top of the engine, and that will give you enough clearance to work and replace the alternator.....Good Luck
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Old October 12th, 2010, 09:08 PM   #11
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Search for "TravisWilliamGT" replacing the alternator methods....I have never used his method, but something similar, I took off the radiator, which in his method he says to just lift up the radiator with all the coolant hoses still attached to it and just kind of sit it on top of the engine, and that will give you enough clearance to work and replace the alternator.....Good Luck
K, found the instructions from TravisWilliamGT and I'll give that a go. Thanks.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 09:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Okay, so what's involved in removing the fans?

*lol* and please take note of what it says under 'Starfire' on the left.
that's what is here for!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mac1 View Post
^^^ all the above info is wrong and dangerous. You run the risk of cracking a very old a/c line by bending it out of shape. Am I the only one that has learned removing the radiator fans is way easier. As long as we are talking Probe and not Mx6.
I just did it with no problems ? didnt bend the line what-so-ever ? it comes straight down off the hard line that runs to the condensor...with enough slack to move it without bending it one bit. it's in no way wrong or a ...just because it's not as easy. and yeah if you bend the hell out of the line then it could possibly be dangerous. The haynes manual tells you to do it while the radiator is still in place on the vehicle.


Pick ur path and go for it. Either way will work. GOOD LUCK
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Old October 12th, 2010, 09:21 PM   #13
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I think I'm gonna go with the rad removal simply cuz I can't find the other two bolts on the compressor, and I don't wanna risk bleeding anymore freon off of the system.

I'm already being held accountable for enough stuff without destroying the ozone too!!!!
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Old October 12th, 2010, 09:24 PM   #14
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lol...yeah...good luck!
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Old October 12th, 2010, 09:29 PM   #15
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let us know how it goes cuz i might have to be changing mine here this weekend and can use all the help/tips i can get. first-timer as well lol
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Old October 12th, 2010, 09:41 PM   #16
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let us know how it goes cuz i might have to be changing mine here this weekend and can use all the help/tips i can get. first-timer as well lol
I'll do that.

But it may not be readable - I'm not sure how much cussing they allow to be posted in one go.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 10:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac1 View Post
^^^ all the above info is wrong and dangerous. You run the risk of cracking a very old a/c line by bending it out of shape. Am I the only one that has learned removing the radiator fans is way easier. As long as we are talking Probe and not Mx6.
It is from the factory shop manual, yes you do stress the lines ... go ahead and take the radiator out if you want. My lines did not crack and I have
lowered the compressor more than once.

---------- Post added at 01:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:06 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starfire View Post
I think I'm gonna go with the rad removal simply cuz I can't find the other two bolts on the compressor, and I don't wanna risk bleeding anymore freon off of the system.

I'm already being held accountable for enough stuff without destroying the ozone too!!!!
The bolts that are for the freon lines are fairly obvious since they go
through the fittings at the end of the lines. If you find a bolt up there
that is not on the fittings then you probably got it. But go ahead and
take out the radiator if you prefer.

Last edited by Pete93ProbeGT; October 12th, 2010 at 10:14 PM.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 10:17 PM   #18
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Wouldn't mention it if I never seen it done. Makes sense for a old pressurized and hardened hose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mac1 View Post
^^^ all the above info is wrong and dangerous. You run the risk of cracking a very old a/c line by bending it out of shape. Am I the only one that has learned removing the radiator fans is way easier. As long as we are talking Probe and not Mx6.


---------- Post added at 10:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:12 PM ----------

That's why I mentioned it's a Risk, not always will it happen and by bending I mean any position other then the U shape it's in. So if you tell 100 people to do it it your way and 2 people break a hose then you just caused them to break a hose, and while some people might sit the compressor on a stand while out of the way, some will just let it hang and the weight of the compressor will put stress on a "Old hardened pressurized hose". My way may scratch your arm while trying to loosen the radiator fan bolts.
Quote:
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I just did it with no problems ? didnt bend the line what-so-ever ? it comes straight down off the hard line that runs to the condensor...with enough slack to move it without bending it one bit. it's in no way wrong or a ...just because it's not as easy. and yeah if you bend the hell out of the line then it could possibly be dangerous. The haynes manual tells you to do it while the radiator is still in place on the vehicle.


---------- Post added at 10:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 PM ----------
Who said anything about removing radiator? Oh and take it from a Dealer mechanic " the book is never the best way at replacing something". You think the engineers experimented 10 different ways to replace a part? Hell no, and on top of that as the car ages, parts weaken so different methods are needed. It's the mechanic that ends up fixing the car that you should listen to not the BOOK!

Not a Rant just needs to be said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete93ProbeGT View Post
It is from the factory shop manual, yes you do stress the lines ... go ahead and take the radiator out if you want. My lines did not crack and I have
removed the compressor more than once.[COLOR="Silver"]
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Last edited by mac1; October 12th, 2010 at 10:24 PM.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 10:24 PM   #19
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It sounds like a rant, and I did it by the book and it worked out fine,
as I stated in my first post. You do not seem to be absolutely right
considering that your strong objection might suggest so.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 10:27 PM   #20
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You do not seem to be absolutely right
considering that your strong objection might suggest so.
Keeping my mouth shut on this one, I just hate that after 10 years with this site people still mention "the book", we are a revised version of it.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 10:36 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Pete93ProbeGT View Post
It is from the factory shop manual, yes you do stress the lines ... go ahead and take the radiator out if you want. My lines did not crack and I have
lowered the compressor more than once.

---------- Post added at 01:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:06 AM ----------



The bolts that are for the freon lines are fairly obvious since they go
through the fittings at the end of the lines. If you find a bolt up there
that is not on the fittings then you probably got it. But go ahead and
take out the radiator if you prefer.
The problem I'm having with the whole process is not being able to see or easily access much of anything in that area.

Limited space and 16 years of grime are making it tough on this old boy. I'm just looking at getting at it the easiest way possible. Having said that I do appreciate everyone taking the time to express their thoughts and opinions.

As we all know there's more than one way to, as they say, kill the cat.

Thanks.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 10:46 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Starfire View Post
The problem I'm having with the whole process is not being able to see or easily access much of anything in that area.

Limited space and 16 years of grime are making it tough on this old boy. I'm just looking at getting at it the easiest way possible. Having said that I do appreciate everyone taking the time to express their thoughts and opinions.

As we all know there's more than one way to, as they say, kill the cat.

Thanks.
Especially the ones that chill on top of my cars . But on a more serious note, my way doesn't require jacking up the car, kneeling down or getting crud in your face while down there I get lightheaded after doing all that.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 11:24 PM   #23
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Especially the ones that chill on top of my cars . But on a more serious note, my way doesn't require jacking up the car, kneeling down or getting crud in your face while down there I get lightheaded after doing all that.
Well the car's already jacked up, I knelt down, and I have crud all over the place. Lightheaded doesn't begin to describe.

And after all that I came here.

Now I get to put it all together again and try the other way.

Thanks again to everyone for taking the time to suggest solutions. I'll keep you posted.
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Old October 13th, 2010, 07:58 AM   #24
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easy way to do it, disconnect battery and and all wires going to the alternator, one plugs in and the other bolts on. jack the car up and support with jack stand,loosen belt tensioner lockdown nut(17mm) and turn the 10mm adjusting screw until you can remove the belt, remove the top radiator hose, always access to top alternator bolt, you dont have to but it makes it a whole lot easier. remove the four(4) compressor bolts they have a rectangular pattern i think there 12mm bolts at least mine is.behind the passenger side headlight the ac line is held on a little rubber bracket with a 10mm bolt remove it and it allows you to move the compressor down and to the side( if your worried about your lines just simply tie it up with a piece of string or wire). now you can remove the top alternator bolt(12mm) and the thru bolt on the bottom of the alternator(14mm)*the thru bolt will come out as it hits the frame so just pull it out as far as you can now u can let the alternator swing down you might have to use a little force not much to get alternator of the block and there u go pull it out the bottom install is just the reverse
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Old October 13th, 2010, 10:51 AM   #25
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I JUST DID THIS A WEEK AGO. There are 4 bolts holding the AC compressor in. You have to remove the compressor first, or the alternator will not be able to swing down far enough to come off. The whole take the fans/radiator out is crap. You down need to mess with that if you don't want to. The fans may give you a little extra room, but you don't have to. So get the compressor out with the 12mm socket. You got the first two out, the other two are right above them. AC comes down. Unhook the wiring to the alternator. I would advise unhooking the battery, or you may get some unwanted sparks will put some brown in your pants. Unbolt the top bolt on alt. (12mm) then unbolt the lower bolt (14mm I think) and pull the bolt out until it hits the engine bay wall. Push the alternator down and it will swing right off. Then put your new one on. Easy as pie.
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