ATX Oil
90% of automatic transmissions failures are from burnt fluid, fitting an aftermarket oil cooler yourself or by a dealer can greatly extend their life and avoid 1800$US/£ repair bills. TruCool are available in both the US & UK, at around 40-60$US/£, and incorporate a thermostat, www.bakersprecision.com. Mocal & Earl do similar coolers, www.amstreetrod.com. Fitment is easy into the supply lines, UK owners can source from Demon Tweeks, 01978-664466 and fitment is easy DIY or Main Dealer.
Use of synthetic ATF in cold conditions or harsh driving will prolong life, however most important is changing ATF & filter at 2yrs/24k-miles, and changing ALL the fluid. ATF fluid has to lubricate, act as a hydraulic fluid (at 1,910psi) and ALSO act as a power transmission fluid through hydraulic coupling in the Torque Converter - hence it can be easily overheated, losing viscosity and ATX transmission life is vastly reduced. Transmission losses are ~15% in an ATX, or 20kW largely as heating fluid.
An ATX holds 8.8L of ATF, draining the pan & changing the mesh filter does not remove all the old fluid & clutch/band wear particles. There is no Torque-Convertor Drain plug. The solution, best done by a Main Dealer & specifically requested, is remove oil cooler flexible lines, add extensions to two large clean 15L buckets. Fill one with 12L of ATX, put the intake hose into this, with another person, start the engine and pump in the new ATF until the exiting fluid runs clear. Done. You can buy ATF in a 20L drum much cheaper than the small 1L/1Q bottles incidentally. Everything must be kept perfectly clean to avoid dirt/contamination. Even Main Dealers do not always perform a total fluid change - specific it.
Some owners have fitted remote filters as well as coolers, these use a better 10-50 micron traditional filter (instead of horrible 100+ micron metal mesh) and will remove clutch/band particles much more efficiently. www.permacool.com do such, however TruCool (www.bakersprecision.com) do more efficient, neater & integral thermostat ATX coolers than permacool.
The ATX can have upgraded bands, clutches & torque-convertor such that it can handle over 300bhp and reducing 0-60 times by ~0.7secs. Level10, www.levelten.com, offer such along with ATX ECU reprogramming, parts may be fitted by any dealer. Details are best obtained from www.probetalk.com where several members have their parts, even running Superchargers on the ATX transmissions. The upgrades may be cheaper than UK rebuilt parts, and may interest Millenia/Xedos9/MC owners. The best repair for a failed ATX is the Mazda/Ford Factory Remanufactured unit, around 1700-1900$US from Roebuck (Trussville) Mazda as only they know the long list of updates, and can verify the case itself is within revised specs.
Cost:Benefit Preference should be placed on complete fluid change with non-Synth ATF and a Cooler, over using Synthetic ATF (more expensive). Some follow the Semi-Synth engine oil mix of 10-25% Synthetic mix.
-Julian AF Bradbury
90% of automatic transmissions failures are from burnt fluid, fitting an aftermarket oil cooler yourself or by a dealer can greatly extend their life and avoid 1800$US/£ repair bills. TruCool are available in both the US & UK, at around 40-60$US/£, and incorporate a thermostat, www.bakersprecision.com. Mocal & Earl do similar coolers, www.amstreetrod.com. Fitment is easy into the supply lines, UK owners can source from Demon Tweeks, 01978-664466 and fitment is easy DIY or Main Dealer.
Use of synthetic ATF in cold conditions or harsh driving will prolong life, however most important is changing ATF & filter at 2yrs/24k-miles, and changing ALL the fluid. ATF fluid has to lubricate, act as a hydraulic fluid (at 1,910psi) and ALSO act as a power transmission fluid through hydraulic coupling in the Torque Converter - hence it can be easily overheated, losing viscosity and ATX transmission life is vastly reduced. Transmission losses are ~15% in an ATX, or 20kW largely as heating fluid.
An ATX holds 8.8L of ATF, draining the pan & changing the mesh filter does not remove all the old fluid & clutch/band wear particles. There is no Torque-Convertor Drain plug. The solution, best done by a Main Dealer & specifically requested, is remove oil cooler flexible lines, add extensions to two large clean 15L buckets. Fill one with 12L of ATX, put the intake hose into this, with another person, start the engine and pump in the new ATF until the exiting fluid runs clear. Done. You can buy ATF in a 20L drum much cheaper than the small 1L/1Q bottles incidentally. Everything must be kept perfectly clean to avoid dirt/contamination. Even Main Dealers do not always perform a total fluid change - specific it.
Some owners have fitted remote filters as well as coolers, these use a better 10-50 micron traditional filter (instead of horrible 100+ micron metal mesh) and will remove clutch/band particles much more efficiently. www.permacool.com do such, however TruCool (www.bakersprecision.com) do more efficient, neater & integral thermostat ATX coolers than permacool.
The ATX can have upgraded bands, clutches & torque-convertor such that it can handle over 300bhp and reducing 0-60 times by ~0.7secs. Level10, www.levelten.com, offer such along with ATX ECU reprogramming, parts may be fitted by any dealer. Details are best obtained from www.probetalk.com where several members have their parts, even running Superchargers on the ATX transmissions. The upgrades may be cheaper than UK rebuilt parts, and may interest Millenia/Xedos9/MC owners. The best repair for a failed ATX is the Mazda/Ford Factory Remanufactured unit, around 1700-1900$US from Roebuck (Trussville) Mazda as only they know the long list of updates, and can verify the case itself is within revised specs.
Cost:Benefit Preference should be placed on complete fluid change with non-Synth ATF and a Cooler, over using Synthetic ATF (more expensive). Some follow the Semi-Synth engine oil mix of 10-25% Synthetic mix.
-Julian AF Bradbury
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