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  • ATX Info and FAQ

    ATX Oil
    90% of automatic transmissions failures are from burnt fluid, fitting an aftermarket oil cooler yourself or by a dealer can greatly extend their life and avoid 1800$US/£ repair bills. TruCool are available in both the US & UK, at around 40-60$US/£, and incorporate a thermostat, www.bakersprecision.com. Mocal & Earl do similar coolers, www.amstreetrod.com. Fitment is easy into the supply lines, UK owners can source from Demon Tweeks, 01978-664466 and fitment is easy DIY or Main Dealer.

    Use of synthetic ATF in cold conditions or harsh driving will prolong life, however most important is changing ATF & filter at 2yrs/24k-miles, and changing ALL the fluid. ATF fluid has to lubricate, act as a hydraulic fluid (at 1,910psi) and ALSO act as a power transmission fluid through hydraulic coupling in the Torque Converter - hence it can be easily overheated, losing viscosity and ATX transmission life is vastly reduced. Transmission losses are ~15% in an ATX, or 20kW largely as heating fluid.

    An ATX holds 8.8L of ATF, draining the pan & changing the mesh filter does not remove all the old fluid & clutch/band wear particles. There is no Torque-Convertor Drain plug. The solution, best done by a Main Dealer & specifically requested, is remove oil cooler flexible lines, add extensions to two large clean 15L buckets. Fill one with 12L of ATX, put the intake hose into this, with another person, start the engine and pump in the new ATF until the exiting fluid runs clear. Done. You can buy ATF in a 20L drum much cheaper than the small 1L/1Q bottles incidentally. Everything must be kept perfectly clean to avoid dirt/contamination. Even Main Dealers do not always perform a total fluid change - specific it.

    Some owners have fitted remote filters as well as coolers, these use a better 10-50 micron traditional filter (instead of horrible 100+ micron metal mesh) and will remove clutch/band particles much more efficiently. www.permacool.com do such, however TruCool (www.bakersprecision.com) do more efficient, neater & integral thermostat ATX coolers than permacool.

    The ATX can have upgraded bands, clutches & torque-convertor such that it can handle over 300bhp and reducing 0-60 times by ~0.7secs. Level10, www.levelten.com, offer such along with ATX ECU reprogramming, parts may be fitted by any dealer. Details are best obtained from www.probetalk.com where several members have their parts, even running Superchargers on the ATX transmissions. The upgrades may be cheaper than UK rebuilt parts, and may interest Millenia/Xedos9/MC owners. The best repair for a failed ATX is the Mazda/Ford Factory Remanufactured unit, around 1700-1900$US from Roebuck (Trussville) Mazda as only they know the long list of updates, and can verify the case itself is within revised specs.

    Cost:Benefit Preference should be placed on complete fluid change with non-Synth ATF and a Cooler, over using Synthetic ATF (more expensive). Some follow the Semi-Synth engine oil mix of 10-25% Synthetic mix.

    -Julian AF Bradbury
    Last edited by pgt4speed; January 31, 2002, 05:51 PM.

  • #2
    ATX MODIFICATIONS


    PERFORMANCE

    Level Ten Torque Converter
    Difficulty:Hard
    Cost: $500
    Links: http://www.levelten.com/

    Involves removing the transmission
    Increases the stall of the transmission, enhancing launches
    Usually cuts off 0.4-0.6 seconds off of 1/4 mile time

    Level Ten Hydro System Valve Body Recalibration Upgrade
    Difficulty:Hard
    cost:$698
    Links: http://www.levelten.com/

    This mod fixes shift deficiencies, optimizes driveability and shift feel, minimize heat build up and wear in the transmission. With this added to the torque convertor it will be very close to the performance of a manual transmission. You will need to send in your stock valve body. Fixes planetary burn up, band and clutch failures. Lowers trans temperature for improved durability. A must have for NOS Turbo, and Supercharged machines.

    IAT Mod
    Difficulty:Easy
    Cost: $6
    Links: http://rogue.bucks.edu/~0257335/IAT/

    Simple wiring to volume air flow sensor. Removes the preshift fuel cut and raises line pressure. Makes harder, faster, more powerful shifts for about 0.2-0.5 second shorter 1/4 mile times. Only works on the 2.5L Probe/MX-6 engine.



    MAINTENANCE

    Transmission Cooler
    Difficulty:Medium
    Cost: $30-$50
    Links: http://www.haydenauto.com/transmis.html

    The stock transmission cooler is very small on the Probe and MX-6, and is one reason these transmissions get ruined quickly. A transmission cooler will help protect the vital parts of your transmission by helping it from overheating and burning up seals and parts. Involves cutting the transmission lines and rerouting them through the new cooler which is mounted on the radiator.


    External Transmission Filter
    Difficulty: Medium
    Cost: $25-$80
    Links: http://www.permacool.com/Catalog/Cat_page25.html

    Protects the vital parts of your transmission from dirt and other small particles. Involves cutting the transmission lines and routing them through the external transmission filter.


    Synthetic Transmission Fluid
    Difficulty: Medium
    Cost: $4 a quart
    Links: http://www.mobil1.com/products/atf.jsp

    Just as synthetic engine oil helps your engine, the same can be done for your transmission with synthetic transmission fluid. It provides an outstanding low-temperature fluidity and keeps the transmission clean along with very resistant to heat and friction. Thus extending the life of your transmission.

    -SD, SL, & CR
    Last edited by ChargerGL; February 22, 2002, 12:54 AM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Helpful Picture Files.....
      Hayden 404 Installed on my 1993 Probe GT


      Bumper Cover Off
      http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/100...M0.9020807.jpg

      Bumper Cover On
      http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/100...M0.9112316.jpg
      Sandon Lettieri
      1993 Probe GT - KLZE & Stuff - 172whp / 161wtq - 146k
      2013 Focus ST - Stock & Stuff - 251whp / 290wtq - 142k

      Comment


      • #4
        Tranmission Cooler Install
        Full Stock Cooler Bypass

        The Hayden 404 kit should come with everything you need to mount it exactly like my pictures above. I removed the bumper cover for clarity and easier install. My cooler is mounted for 100% effiecency. The cooler can be mounted between the radiator and condensor for only 75% effiecency. I suggest the 100% "intercooler style" mounting

        The Hayden kit should include about 6ft of trans hose, 4 zip tie mounting straps, four pads for the straps, 4 clamps, and other miscelanious crap you won't use.

        The stock transmission cooler is integrated into the radiator. I totally bypassed the stock cooler. Plugs are not needed for the transcooler hoses since the cooler is uses separate lines inside the radiator.

        There are two hoses on the transmission, one on the top by the shift cable position sensor and the one on the bottom by the fluid pump. The bottom line(pump) goes to the bottom line on the cooler. The top line(shift cable) goes to the top line on the cooler. You will need to run new hose since the stock hose will not reach all of the way to the new cooler. Use your new clamps, they are so much nicer than the old clamps

        The cooler mounts using those zip tie straps. If you feel the need, you can put the little pads between the cooler and the condensor. If you don't use the pads, so be it. Nothing gained, or lost. The ties straps go through the cooler and the condensor(between the fins) and you tighten the caps on the ties straps till the assembly won't move.
        Sandon Lettieri
        1993 Probe GT - KLZE & Stuff - 172whp / 161wtq - 146k
        2013 Focus ST - Stock & Stuff - 251whp / 290wtq - 142k

        Comment


        • #5
          Automatic Transmission Failures


          Causes
          Automatic transmissions fail in as many ways as there are car models. In contrast, there are only a few reasons why anyone needs automatic transmission repair. I break it down into four major categories: neglect, abuse, design flaws, and normal wear and tear.

          Neglect
          The number one area of neglect is inadequate routine maintenance. As the temperature of the oil increases, the chemical components start to break down. Over time, the lubricating properties of the oil are lost. If not replenished, bearings and bushings begin to wear. If these bushings and bearings wear out, they can cause internal leaks which cause pressure losses, which lead to clutch, band and geartrain failure requiring the need for a rebuilt transmission. Fluid and filter changes (routine transmission service) should be performed at regular intervals from 15,000 to 25,000 miles, depending on the type of use. Vehicles used strictly for family transportation and for commuting to and from work should be serviced every 25,000 miles. Vehicles used for fleet service and medium duty hauling need servicing every 15,000 miles unless an auxiliary cooler is installed. More about coolers later.

          A thorough transmission service procedure includes a road test to check for proper shift points, shift quality, inspection for external leaks, proper throttle pressure adjustment, proper linkage adjustment, a look inside the pan for abnormal signs of wear or damage, and finally replacement of the filter and addition of new fluid. In case you're wondering, there is no way to reasonably change all of the fluid. The pan usually holds four to six quarts of fluid while the torque converter can hold up to nine quarts. Most converters cannot effectively be drained without drilling and plugging. Most vehicles don't allow access for this. Some older transmissions have a drain plug in the converter to allow draining of this component. Not even then will all of the old fluid be removed.

          Some shops have recently invested in machines that claim to be able to give your transmission a complete transfusion by connecting to the cooler lines and pumping new fluid into the system while at the same time removing the old. The problem with this procedure however, is that the converter acts as a reservoir. As new fluid enters, it does not force the old fluid out. Rather, the new fluid mixes with the old fluid inside the torque converter before it can be expelled from the transmission. In my opinion, to properly flush the system in this manner, one would need to circulate two to three times the capacity of the transmission through the system to get the job done. Even if this procedure were 100% effective, you would still need to remove the pan for filter replacement and inspection.

          It's kind of like "the best cure for snake bite is not to get bit." The best answer is not to let it get ahead of you in terms of mileage. Changing the filter and moderate amounts of fluid at regular intervals saves the life of the transmission and keeps you away from the dreaded transmission rebuild.

          In addition, all automatic transmissions use rubber or paper gaskets and seals. When subjected to the ordinary heat generated inside the transmission they shrink and become brittle. As this occurs, leaks develop. If these leaks are allowed to go unchecked, low fluid level will result. This will cause damage to internal components. So there is more than one reason to let a qualified transmission expert service your vehicle as opposed to just any auto repair shop.

          Comment


          • #6
            continued from previous post



            Abuse
            This is an area of great controversy. What is abuse? Any type of use that the vehicle was not intended for. How do we know what was intended? We really don't know. If the manufacturers made an absolute statement about intended use, they would expose themselves to litigation on the matter.

            In my opinion, any amount of extra weight that causes the driver to notice a difference in vehicle performance is approaching abuse to the degree that extra heat is generated. It's excess heat caused by extra stress that dramatically shortens the life of your transmission. If the heat cannot be adequately dissipated, then internal damage will result. It's that simple. In addition to the extra heat being generated, there's the extra load on all of the internal components. Clutches and bands are designed to hold tightly under the load of the normal weight and horsepower of the vehicle. Increases in either of these can cause trouble. Now, I know that not using your 3/4 ton truck to pull the family boat to and from the lake is not the answer you want to hear. But if you want to preserve your transmission to the maximum extent, then that's the correct answer. Personally, I pull my boat. But I don't do so without taking precautions. Please consider the preventative measures listed below. Transmission overhaul is getting considerably more expensive these days. Preventative maintenance and proper driving habits are the best ways to avoid costly transmission repair.

            Design Flaws
            This is the area that most people find the hardest to accept. How is it that my new $28,000 truck could have design flaws that will cause premature failure of my transmission? If a vehicle manufacturer were to spend the time and money necessary to debug every facet of design, that $28,000.00 truck would cost $128,000.00 or more. Why do Rolls Royce and other comparable automobiles cost so much? They take more time in designing them and then work out the little problems in the design before they go to production. The government with all of its regulations, the demand by the public to produce vehicles quickly, and plain old human error simply make it impossible for any manufacturer to build anything perfect. That's why you see so many changes in design during the current model year and why TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) exist.

            Comfortable shifts, less strain on the engine by the transmission oil pump, reduced weight of transmission components, and other parts of the vehicle in order to conserve fuel, more heat and other factors, all contribute to premature wear inside the transmission. To be fair, most manufacturers have made great progress in improving transmission reliability over the last 10 years. They are more dependable today and last longer. But that doesn't mean they are flawless.

            Normal Wear & Tear
            Anything mechanical can, and will, at some point in time break down or wear out. Transmission failure is no exception. Bushings and bearings are usually the first components to go, with dynamically applied clutches and bands following. Dynamic meaning a band or clutch used to stop something in motion as opposed to preventing a stationary (static) object from starting to move. A reasonable service life can be from 40,000 - 50,000 miles up to 150,000 miles or more depending on the type of use. General family use on the high end. Fleet and commercial use on the low end.

            Prevention
            First there's the heat problem. Installation of a good quality auxiliary oil cooler is the first step. Why do I need an auxiliary cooler? Doesn't the factory provide one for me? Most vehicles are designed to circulate transmission fluid up to the radiator and back again through two steel lines. The coolant inside the radiator is what cools the transmission fluid. Yes, that's right. 200+ degree antifreeze tries to cool 300+ degree transmission fluid. Doesn't make a lot of sense, does it? Auxiliary transmission oil coolers use the outside air temperature to cool the fluid which is far more efficient. Sometimes, if your vehicle has a towing package for instance, the factory will install an auxiliary cooler on the vehicle. Otherwise you must order it as an extra accessory.

            The addition of one of these coolers can more than double the life of the fluid and the transmission. The best coolers, in my opinion, are built by the aftermarket. Ask your local transmission shop about the details.

            -Wilson Transmission
            March 1999

            Comment


            • #7
              IAT Modification on 2.0L FS engine

              It will not work, and here is why!


              OK, here is how the IAT mod works, as per the 1993 Ford ASE Service manual for the 2.5 L V-6 equipped 4EAT Type GF Transmission:

              Do you ever notice how your car shifts really nice and hard and SOLID whenever it is cold and just started, but after it warms up it has that little hesitation in between shifts? Well, Mazda and Ford engineers put that there for all of us when they wrote the programming for our engine management systems. Well, over a year ago I found out a way to get around it in one of my ASE Service manuals.

              You see, the ECU actually cuts fuel injection between the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts for "Improved shift feel", that way the engine doesn't lurch the car into gear under WOT. Well, that is just no fun, now is it. In order to trick the ECU into NOT cutting the fuel injection, you put an intermittent cut switch in the Intake Air Temperature sensor's two wires. What this does is tell the ECU that the IAT isn't working, and it goes into a "Limp Mode", where everything is set for a worst case scenario on the engine. Line pressure on the transmission is maximized, up to 50 psi. Fuel injection is set to start conditions, and all injectors fire into each one of their corresponding cylinders simultaneously, therefore eliminating the .5 sec fuel cut.

              So what does all this mean? What it means is that under WOT, when you have the intermittent switch set to cut the signal, the ECU does all the thing above, and you get one EXTREMELY SOLID SHIFT instead of that sissy hiccup in between shifts.

              The imperative Home Depot Mod for all Automatic 4EAT Type GF Transmissions that came in Probes, MX-6s and 626s.


              .......................


              Now, remember these words are surmised from a 1993 Ford ASE Service manual for the 4EAT Type GF. And these words come from the Improved shift feel Chapter, which is under the 2.5 section. There is no mention of Injection cut and reduced torque signal for the 2.0 in 1993, it just was not in the TCM Programming. You see, the 2.0 has the ECU only for transmission and engine management, while the 2.5 has the ECU for engine management, and a separate TCM for transmission control, where the information for the torque reduction is stored. There just wasn't enough room on the ECU for the entire program code, so it was omitted on the 2.0 for 93.


              NOW, there IS an IAT on the 2.0, but there is not torque cut information in the ECU, so you can cut the signal, but it'll just pull a code for a non-functioning IAT.

              HOWEVER, what you (whoever says it works) may be experiencing is the more solid shift from the maximized line pressure that the IAT interruption creates. When the IAT is cut, the transmission pulls a limp mode feature out of its but and runs transmission line pressure up to around 60 psi in the line.....thinking it is breaking down. you are just tricking the transmission...

              But the fact of the matter is there is no injection cut for improved shift feel by Torque reduction on the 2.0 4 cyl...the programming just isn't there

              And in 94 the 2.0 switched over to a CD4E Chain Drive transmission, and the Type GF remained in the 2.5...so there wouldn't be any requiem for the injection cut on such an unreliable transmission there either. -T "guru" W

              Comment


              • #8
                How-To: Changing the transmission fluid (Full write-up)

                i was sick of reading countless posts on here about people asking how to change the tranny fluid (including myself), so i thought i'd do something about it. i even searched on here but didn't come up with a whole lot of helpful information on how to EXACTLY do it. i got a lot of info on what to use, and techniques, but not an exact write-up. so since i have to install my new autometer tranny temp gauge, and it has to be tapped into the pan, i'm going to have to change the tranny fluid when i do it. so i decided to look around for a write-up on how to do a flush and came across this VERY helpful site. just thought it could be of major use to the rest of us and maybe added to the FAQ in this forum. here's the link:

                http://www.allpar.com/eek/atf.html

                hope it benefits more people than just myself. and if anyone has anything to add regarding this how-to, please feel free to do so.


                -DP

                Comment


                • #9
                  High Stall Torque Converters

                  High stall torque converters are desirable in drag race vehicles because they allow the vehicle to develop maximum engine torque (say 5000 rpm), before it leaves the starting line. This type of converter is designed to slip more, or have higher stall speeds then the typical 1300 - 1900 rpm factory converters. Modifying an engine for increased power will raise the rpm it produces at this new usable horsepower. When the engine power is increased, it will require matching the proper high-stall torque converter. This is important, in order to allow the engine to reach its usable horsepower range before the converter reaches its stall speed, and hydraulically loads the engine. Stall speed is the maximum rpm that an engine can obtain against the hydraulic load of the torque converter with the transmission shaft held stationary.

                  The best performance is obtained with a converter that has a stall speed slightly higher than the rpm of the engine when it starts to produce its strongest usable power. Too low of a stall speed will result in a bog, and launches will be slow, since the engine will not be in it's usable power range. Too high of a stall speed will result in the engine reaching its peak power range below the rpm. Since the converter can efficiently transfer power, this could result in excessive slippage.

                  The stall speed is controlled by the converter, engine power, and the ability to hold the transmission input shaft stationary. When engine power is increased, stall speed will go up. Likewise, when engine power is decreased, stall speed will go down. Stall speeds with this type of torque converter are generally rated as what's termed the "Flash Stall Speed" or shock. This is the approximate rpm that the engine will go to when the throttle is quickly moved from the idle position to the wide open throttle with the transmission engaged.

                  This "Flash Stall Speed" will vary depending upon engine power, rear end ratio, and car weight. It is very important to match all of the engine components; cam, carburetor, torque converter, rear end gear ratio, etc, to work in the same rpm range for the best results. When modifying the engine, do not over cam or over carburate the engine. These are two of the most common mistakes.

                  Select a rear-end gear ratio that will allow the modified engine and the high stall torque converter to perform efficiently in the rpm range they were built for. A general recommendation, would be to use gears in the following ranges:
                  3.10 to 3.50 for 2,400 to 2,800 rpm stall converter,
                  3.50 to 4.10 for 3,000 to 3,800 rpm stall converter,
                  4.10 and higher range with higher stall converters.

                  Keep in mind, for a given stall speed, the turbine shaft is held stationary with either the wheel brakes or the transmission brake until the driver is ready to take off. The use of a trans-brake allows the driver to make maximum use of a given stall speed. Stall speed will be limited in cars without transmission brakes because the gear reduction of the transmission and the rear end would provide enough mechanical advantage to overcome the car's wheel brake system. When using the wheel brakes, often the best launch technique for this type of converter is to leave from an idle, since this will allow the converter to momentarily flash to a higher stall speed (Flash Stall Speed), then it would by bringing the engine rpm up against the converter and car brakes. When using this launch technique, the engine must idle clean and have a stumble free response to throttle movement.

                  -FB Performance

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    ATX noobs: what you need to know

                    over the past 3 years on this board, I have seen the same questions come up over and over and over and over again, so here's your answers before you ask.


                    1. you can't swap a GT tranny into a 4 cylinder, it doesn't bolt up. sure you could swap a GT motor and trans into your car as well as new wiring harnesses and PCM, but might as well just buy a GT at that point.

                    2. you can't turbocharge a automatic Probe without levelten, just the torque converter is 500 and the valve body is 600, so 1100 to just set up your tranny to boost your car. Now you have to work around the piping around the transmission which is very very VERY difficult, which is why so many people don't turbocharge their automatic and swap instead, then turbocharge.
                    Don't get me started on turbocharging a 4 cylinder with the cd4e, just give up on the idea.

                    3. you can spray nitrous on a stock tranny as long as you switch it off between shifts, just as long as you have the IAT mod and tranny cooler.

                    4. When buying a tranny cooler, we recommend you get the Hayden 404, anything larger is overkill and from what I've been told, the larger ones can actually do damage.

                    5. Don't spin your tires or neutral drop your car, I'll personally smack you when you ask why your tranny is flashing a OD light after attempting to do burnouts.

                    6. If you've never had the tranny flushed before by a shop, it's too late to have it flushed. Flushing a tranny when it's in its higher mileage and when it's never been flushed before will result in transmission failure. Best you can do is drop the pan, replace the filter and do a drain/fill.

                    7. IAT mod is for GT's ONLY! What's the IAT mod you ask? search, there's 50 websites out there, including mine with explanations and directions on how to do it.

                    failure to yield my words will end up in you losing your transmission.
                    Some of the stuff may sound stupid, but I am currently reading study booklets to get ASE certified, meaning I do know a little about cars
                    NoclssGT.com
                    PhotoPOC
                    DaddyPOC
                    1997 Ford Probe GT MTX, 2009 Mazda6i MTX, 2007 Jeep Commander 4x4

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      noclss2000: good write up..... there are two different atxes used.... 93 Probes all use the 4EAT..... 93 thru 97 GTs use the 4EAT..... 94 thru 97 base and SE (2.0) use the CD4E atx which has a hidden internal filter... the CD4E uses a set of two planetary gear shafts coupled together by a drive chain...., the 4EAT uses a single compounded planetary gear set. there is no drive chain used in the 4EAT.... the CD4E is expensive to get rebuilt. you are looking at $1500 to $2000 for a complete rebuild..... always, always replace that torque converter with a new one or a factory warranted rebuilt torque converter .....if you are getting your atx rebuilt.... if you are a good mechanic (not a newbie) i would advise to swap the CD4E atx with a 5 speed mtx..... i know it is a lot of work and it isnt only the trans. and cluth R & R..... but the mtx powertrain control module and the mtx wiring harness (and all mtx sensors) need to go with the tranny..... the CD4E runs very hot and the bare minimum maintenance would be to add an oil cooler and an external filter ... drain and refill the atx with new fluid.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by noclss2000
                        1. you can't swap a GT tranny into a 4 cylinder, it doesn't bolt up. sure you could swap a GT motor and trans into your car as well as new wiring harnesses and PCM, but might as well just buy a GT at that point.
                        are the 2.0L shifter linkages the same as the 2.5L ones?
                        -Kyle
                        93 Black probe (K-sporting) My Cardomain

                        **
                        Mazdaspeed SVO 2.Slow turbo build teaser thread**

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          no, they're different.
                          NoclssGT.com
                          PhotoPOC
                          DaddyPOC
                          1997 Ford Probe GT MTX, 2009 Mazda6i MTX, 2007 Jeep Commander 4x4

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by M.Hicks
                            so 93 2.0s used 4EATs? anyone know if thats true? if so I wonder if the 93 2.0 4EATs use the some bolt pattern as 93 2.5 4EATs...
                            yes its true

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