1Gen Classification for SCCA Racing

[plx92]

There's a guy over on performance probe who i believe is currently racing his n/a pgl in scca. if you want to be competitive i would suggest coil overs for your best options in dampers and spring rates. However you can retrofit tokico illumina struts with adjustable dampening from the 2g to fit your 1g then just add some decent springs (not many competitive options for regular springs)

[concealer404]

i'd like to upgrade tires and rims, and maybe later on throw a set of springs under it.

I'd suggest reading the new rulebook. There were recently some very big changes. I think you'd fit nicely in the new "Street" class, i imagine probably "G Street."

It's made it much better to deal with when just starting out, as they're no longer trying to sneak high dollar builds into "stock" classes with Hoosier slicks and the like.

I don't honestly believe that a 1st gen Probe is going to be terribly competitive in the class on a national level, but if you're just going out to have fun locally, who cares?

There's a guy over on performance probe who i believe is currently racing his n/a pgl in scca. if you want to be competitive i would suggest coil overs for your best options in dampers and spring rates. However you can retrofit tokico illumina struts with adjustable dampening from the 2g to fit your 1g then just add some decent springs (not many competitive options for regular springs)

Yeah, twopointtwo. Won't be n/a much longer.

Personally, i've done the Tokico Illumina/GC/Pillowballs/stiff spring thing on my 1G. If i wasn't bound by budget by the only event i race my car in (Grassroots Motorsports $20xx Challenge), i'd just have skipped to a set of F.E.A.L worked KSports right off the bat.

Will still probably do that if the car becomes a One Lap Of America car as planned.


If you're open to a little bit of modification, i do have a set of Koni inserts that i need to get rid of.

[iwent1165]

Yeah, I doubt the car would be nationally competitive, but most anything decently well-prepared with a decent driver can be competitive locally. If you want to have a relatively competitive car, I would recommend reading the rulebook and picking a class to run in. Based on the relative lack of aftermarket for the first gen, I would guess that the only place you could be competitive without spending a lot of money and doing a lot of custom work is in Street (that still sounds weird to say instead of Stock) class. If you're just interested in having fun with the car, then ignore what I just said and build the car however you want it, then figure out what class it ended up in.

[Flipside_SVT]

Guess I'm just gonna have to jump! I'll see how it does, learn the car, and go from there. Thank Yall for the help. When I autocrossed the svt the rulebook/classifications were changing to different names and such. Like I said, a cf hood put Me in STU, against awds and such. Wasn't very fair lol. I'll see if i can copy and paste some old info.

[Racy-Stacey]

One thing that I found when Auto-Xing was having great brake pads. You can get things very hot very quickly have a little break before you get on your next run and things might be still a bit hot. If stock pads get too hot they start to fade. One thing that you can do to help with consistency is use Auto-X pads if your class will allow it. (hard to prove you do/don't have them) if anyone asks. Starting out completely stock is a great way to learn car control and having fun finding the limits.

The thing I found with our 1st gens is that, when you have a lot of body roll you need to add in neg camber in the front. I did a little trick with the rear suspension to limit the travel also. I did this by using cables to tie back the suspension travel. It made the car more neutral in the braking zones, but on the bad side it punched holes in my body panels as the g-loads tore my makeshift mounts.

Currently my car runs on the 2nd gen - TEIN (SuperStreet) suspension. The rear mount needed to be shaved about 3mm front and back to make the attachment point. But anyone who owns this suspension can tell you, the shock travel is greatly reduced. When you jack up the car, it only takes 4in or less to pull the wheels off the ground. In racing this helps a lot with keeping the car planted and minimizing body roll.

Best of luck with your racing !!!!