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How To: Unorthodox Racing UDP install

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  • How To: Unorthodox Racing UDP install

    4th time installing this on a different engine, I decided to take some pics and give a quick run-through of the install. Mainly since the search has been funky, making it harder to find Jamie's write-up.

    First, raise the vehicle up, and support it with jack stands. Next, remove the passenger front wheel. If you still have your splash guards on [which I don't] remove the passenger side guard. Here’s what will be greeting you
    http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep3.jpg

    Now it's time to remove the belts (I didn't think to take pictures with them still on).
    First loosen the 17mm nut on the pulley
    http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep1.jpg

    Next relieve tension off of the belt by backing off the pulley, using the 10mm bolt
    http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep2.jpg

    With the belt loose, they can now be removed super easily.
    Repeat those steps on the lower tensioner.

    Now it's time to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Back to this view
    http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep3.jpg

    You'll need a 22mm socket for this task. I used my air gun on it, so I don't have pictures of how you may need to remove it by wedging a large flathead screwdriver between the flywheel teeth, to keep the crank from spinning, while you ratchet away. Others have broke the bolt loose by turning the engine over a time or two, while they had a breaker bar wedged against the ground.
    My stock pulley came off by hand (thank you 30,000 mile engine), but you may need to use a harmonic balancer remover, to get yours off. These tools are readily available at most auto parts stores.

    Once the crankshaft pulley is off, you'll be looking at this
    http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep4.jpg

    Now then, with the pulley off, it's time to get out whatever tool you've decided to use to hack up the oil pump housing and timing belt cover.
    I used my trusty Dremel with a cut-off disc. You will need to grind down/cut away the inner ridges surrounding the crankshaft sprocket. Be sure to cut away enough to not only clear the hall effect plate, but also to allow for expansion when the oil pump housing heats up. You may also want to remove the crankshaft position sensor [by removing it's one (1) 10mm bolt] to make sure you don't damage it.

    After cutting/grinding, you should be left with something like this
    http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep5.jpg

    Hard part is all done, now you just have to slide the UDP on the crankshaft, and bolt it down to 116-122 lbs/ft.

    Once bolted down, install the new belts
    The new belt sizes needed are
    Water pump/power steering pump: Dayco 5040355
    Altenator/AC compressor: Gates K050380
    Or if you're cool like me
    Altenator/no AC: Dayco 5050315 (Dayco recently changed their part numbers so the old 315k5 is no longer correct).
    Any competent parts store clerk can cross reference these numbers to whatever brand they carry.

    Now then, after sliding the belts on, go ahead and tighten down the tensioners' 10mm bolts until the right amount of tension is on the belts, then tighten down the 17mm nuts on the pulleys.

    When all is said and done, you're left with this
    http://home.comcast.net/~jankypgt/udpstep6.jpg

    Enjoy your UDP.

    Same stuff from above in a .doc file:
    http://home.comcast.net/~pgtfreak/UDP_install.doc
    Last edited by pgtfreak; July 12, 2005, 09:47 AM.
    '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
    '16 Chrysler 300S

  • #2
    You couldn't have better timing, for me at least. I'll be doing this tomorrow (UDP isn't here yet, but I want to get it prepared so I can just pop it on) and have been looking for pics of the oil pump already shaved for weeks now!

    Thanks!
    HUMPGT

    Joe Pierce

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    • #3
      i can't believe you painted the power steering tensioner pilot bolt

      sweet write up though!
      1996 Boysenberry Probe GT MTXtreme
      2014 Fusion SE MTXtreme
      2005 Mountaineer Premier

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      • #4
        whats the hp gains for all this work? 1-3??
        96PGTZE~GREDDY~MAGNAFLOW~ACT
        FIDANZA~WILWOOD~AWR~RR-RACING~HS~OUTLAW
        PRD~MSD-WINDOWS~TEIN-SS~RX-8~ALPINE

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        • #5
          Originally posted by unknowncitizen
          whats the hp gains for all this work? 1-3??
          What are the gains for the 30-45 minutes it took me to complete the install?

          I dunno. Never dyno'd any of my engines before and after the pulley. It was plenty noticable on my '95 ATX GT though. Won't be able to say how noticable it is on my '93 though, since I also added a 7lb flywheel to it.
          '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
          '16 Chrysler 300S

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          • #6
            7lb flywheel? Do tell....

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            • #7
              Instead of jamming a flathead in there and risk damage you can grab a helper and put the car in 5th gear and have them hold the brake down while you loosen the bolt. It seems to be easier to loosen the bolt also. Just my 2 cents

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              • #8
                one of my friends told me you get no traction with a udp on and a lighter flywheel is this true and were did u get a 7lb flywheel
                97 PGT RIP
                93 PGT KLZE:Sold
                01 CBR 929

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                • #9
                  For people that have never done anything (like me about 3 years ago..and i still havent installed one beacuse of that) its hard to see where u dremeled! basically make the plastic timing cover lip flush with the rest of the cover and just dremel the oil pump housing lip on the right side of the picture so its about even with he rest of the oil pump lip correct?

                  maybe u can circle what u dremeled on the pic...
                  Black 95 PGT
                  Silver 98 CSVT

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                  • #10
                    Im not sure how true this is, but I heard it from my friend that has a degree in physics, metalurgy, and fluid dynamics ...and he builds racecar engines, AND he is currently helping design a new honda B-Series intake manifold part time for skunk2. -so I tend to listen to what the hell he says. He said that udp's are bad for your engine. The stock pully is called a harmonic ballancer for a reason, It helps to ballance, or reduce harmonic distortions in your crank. replacing it with a non-oem specific model can cause pre-mature main bearing failure do to small vibrations that otherwise would have been cancelled out. And on top of that you gain very little for the price/time of doing this mod. -just my 2 cents
                    1989 PGT ---- wrecked (twice)
                    1994 PGT ---- wrecked
                    1997 PGT ---- My daughters car

                    "...most of us wouldn't buy a probe if it had a ford engine in it!"

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                    • #11
                      the way i see it the udp will probably be slightly harsher than a new harmonic balancer but will be better than using the 15 year old harmonic balancer that uses old dried up shrinking rubber between two pieces of metal. i dont think dried up rubber can absorb more vibrations than causing more vibrations since increasing tolerances between the rubber and the metal rings that surround it would allow it to do just that.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by muhafuha
                        For people that have never done anything (like me about 3 years ago..and i still havent installed one beacuse of that) its hard to see where u dremeled! basically make the plastic timing cover lip flush with the rest of the cover and just dremel the oil pump housing lip on the right side of the picture so its about even with he rest of the oil pump lip correct?

                        maybe u can circle what u dremeled on the pic...
                        Do you mean something like this?

                        http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/udp01.jpg
                        http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/udp02.jpg

                        I snipped off the plastic part with some side cut wire cutters then ground the remainder flat. I covered the crank with some foil so aluminum filings wouldn't foul the crank's threads.

                        My tool of choice was a rotary tool/Dremel with a tear drop shaped cutting bit.

                        http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/udp05.jpg

                        When you grind the oil pump housing down, you have to grind it down to a little bit below the plane of the plastic timing belt cover.

                        After about 5 minutes of grinding here's the result:

                        http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/udp04.jpg

                        I made these pics about 2 years ago for a write up that I never finished.
                        Last edited by Omaha95PGT; October 11, 2005, 10:01 PM.
                        Marc M.
                        Black '95 PGT with mods 177.4 whp/159.6 wtq (probably way less now as the car has been partially de-modded)
                        2000 BMW M-Roadster

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                        • #13
                          I am glad I found this cuz my car is jacked up as I speak awaiting my very own Unorthodox. I appreciate the write-up and this pics. Very Helpful!!!
                          Stephen

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